Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking
Episodes
Thursday Mar 10, 2022
Thursday Mar 10, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) I’ll save you the airtime by not mentioning how awesome y’all are and how awesome your podcast is because you already know that. If Huy and Sean didn’t know that already just ask Guy… he will talk for hours! Hahah
Two part question is… when contemplating buying a new tool do you let the space you have for that tool determine if you’ll be getting one over the other? Also, when you bring a new tool into the shop do you find yourself using that tool as an excuse to rearrange your shop, even if it’s an upgrade from a tool you already have?
I’ve found myself rearranging my entire workflow every time I introduce a new tool even if the one I’m upgrading one that’s been in a certain spot for years.
I hope all has been well with you and your families. Please continue with the fantastic content! Thank you for your time.
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking
2) Hey fellas, I'm looking into a new drill press. I'm looking to spend about 500$. I noticed the rikon radial arm drill press is the same price as the standard drill press. why wouldn't I buy the radial arm drill press?
Thanks Scott
Huy
1) Howdy from Madison, AL! I’m pretty new to woodworking although
I have been building (and finally finished) our kitchen cabinets including 43 drawers! Now I’m getting into ‘finer’ woodworking and am building a 2” thick (6’x4’ oval) walnut/maple kitchen table. My question is about building a base for the table - any idea how to prototype the build so that I can see if the base will actually hold all the weight of the table? I can build it in Sketchup but that really won’t tell me how much weight it will support… I also thought about building a ‘tulip’ style base as our home has very contemporary styling…
Adrian Abshire
2) First off, this MAY be a repeat (I’ve sent it to SOME podcast but who can keep them all straight ?). I’m making a high chair for a friend, which I hope to complete before the kid goes off to college, from box store mahogany so I’m thinking it’s sapele. I’d love suggestions on how to finish so it’s both durable and safe for a tiny human to gnaw on
Jason
Guy
1) Hey guys I’ve been listening from the start. Awesome podcast and has been super informational so thank you for all you do. My question to you guys is, is it worth upgrading my dwelt 734 to a helical head or buy a new 735 four post and upgrade the head later on?(money reasons for later on) The 734 has worked great for my for about 3 years. My only complaint is the knives are crap. They don’t last very long. My question is it worth upgrading the old 734 Vs getting a new four post and upgrading later. It’s a better machine so maybe it will last longer in the end. Thank you for your time! Mike
2) Hello. My brother-in-law’s house flooded during a recent hurricane. They have a heavy duty metal circular staircase that had carpet covered plywood stair treads that were trashed. I’ve made new stair treads with red oak and was planning to use Osmo to finish, but now they say they want them “dark”.
What product would you recommend to both darken and seal that would hold up long-term to foot traffic. I’m thinking a stain with Osmo might eventually wear off leaving an uneven color.
Thanks in advance, Mike Sibley Sibley Manor Woodworks
Friday Feb 25, 2022
Friday Feb 11, 2022
Friday Feb 11, 2022
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Sean
1)Hi all, Love learning from y’all, though your podcast has cost me a bit of money since I hear about some great things that I HAVE to buy!
However, my spouse says that we are running out of room in our tiny 16.5 x 8.75 foot garage and has put their foot down on a thickness planer. They pretty much use a lathe and other machinery to help support their lathe work (benchtop bandsaw, sander, drill press, job site table saw), and have no stated need for a thickness planer. I am interested in moving more into furniture and cutting boards, so I thought a thickness planer, and possibly one day a jointer, would be helpful in my woodworking. I found plans for a jig that I could use my router on but didn’t know if this was a sufficient substitution. Have any of you used such a jig for planing and if so, how did you find it compares to the thickness planer? Also, do you have any suggestions to efficiently plane or joint wood without a planer or jointer? Thanks in advance for your help. Adrien
2) I see and hear people referring to how many hours they have in a particular project - 50 hours for this, 100 for that, etc. and so on. More so for people doing commission work than just personal stuff, I guess, but it got me wondering... how do you generally figure the hours for a project? Do you keep track of your shop time, or is it more of a 'best guess'? Do you count stock prep? Tool sharpening during the course of a project? Building jigs necessary for the project? Time spent waiting between coats of finish? How deep in the weeds do you go on this, and how does it differ between 'individual' projects that you do at home, vs. say projects done at work (in Guy's case)? Thanks! Monte
3) Two things.
#1 – for the listeners… there seems to be only 58 Patreon members. This is a great resource and I hope more of them contribute, as $5/month is a bargain.
#2 – for the gentlemen, can you please talk about when you do your edge details in relation to sanding. For example, if you’re doing a small chamfer with a block plane, I would think this happens after all sanding is complete. But if you’re looking to blend in a top and bottom roundover, I assume you do this before any sanding, but at the risk of losing some symmetry. Look forward to your thoughts on this topic. Thanks, Glen
Guy
1) Hey guys, recently found love the show. I started at the beginning and am nearly caught up, but forgive me if this has been discussed already. I'm planning to build my wife a very large craft desk/work area. She wants it to be 'U' shaped so she can rotate in place and complete each operation of her projects. Due to the shape and size, I naturally want to assemble this in a manner that it is easy to disassemble to allow for future relocation. Aside from basic, but strategically located, screws or bolts for assembling each section to one another, have you guys used any sort of "knockdown" hardware. I have used connector bolts on cheap throw-away furniture pieces before, but not on pieces that I have built. I can foresee some difficulty in accurately locating the various holes to be drilled when using that type of system. Any thoughts on products and/or approach for such an application?
Ps. I have seen a couple of neat options using the Domino and Lamelo biscuit joiner. I have a Dewalt biscuit joiner, but neither of the two other tools are currently at my disposal. Perhaps this is my excuse to invest in the Domino? Thanks and keep up the good work! Jason
2)Hey guys. I really enjoy the podcast. Thanks for sharing your expertise with the woodworking world.
I've decided to upgrade my sharpening media by moving away from Norton water stones and purchasing two of the DMT Duo Sharp diamond plates (220/325 mesh and 600/1200 mesh) and the 6000 grit Shapton Glass Stone for final honing. It's my understanding the ceramic on the glass stone will require flattening but not nearly as often as the Norton stones which I flatten after every use. Can you tell me how to best determine when my 6000 grit glass stone will need flattening especially since it will be used primarily only for final honing? Also, can the DMT diamond plates be used for flattening the glass stone? If so, which grit/mesh do you recommend. Thanks again and keep up the great work. Jack Francis - Geneva IL
3) Question mainly for Guy: ive heard you talk about your love for the Incra 5000 many times. I have one myself for a few years. One part i wanna pick your brain on is how you claim to be able to square it up in seconds. I will preface this by saying that i hope i am missing something in my own experience. But I find i still need to do 5 cut methods for mine every now and then because when the fence gets bumped... you can no longer trust the registration marks until its squared again. Aside from this, theres also so much play in the outer end of the fence before you lock it down so how do you ever truly trust the angle? I find myself only setting it to 90 and still occasionally find its misaligned. I wouldnt dare trust it for angles like 45 etc because of the play of the arm and the other factors. What am i doing wrong? (I have made sure everything is tight) - tree of life woodworking
Thursday Jan 27, 2022
Thursday Jan 27, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) If I use the 1/3 rule for the tenons on the aprons, the tenons would be 1/4" thick if I use 3/4" stock. Do you think this is thick enough for a side/sofa table that won't see much abuse?
2) Hey guys, love the podcast! I have been following Sean's box build and wanted to talk about box hinges. For side mount hinges, what's your preferred installation method that works every time? It's something I struggle with and would like some tips or tricks. Thanks, Deron
Guy
1) Thanks for the great podcast and answering a number of my questions in the past. As with many of us I have a love hate relationship with finishing. I have been using Shellac with a Rubber (I know Huy dislikes that term) using Guy's method of preparing and using. I've recently tried hard wax oil (Odie's) which I like, but want to try spraying. I have a Home Right Super Finish HVLP (ie CHEAP) Sprayer, can I use this for spraying Shellac? I know recently Guy had mentioned that he pretty much just sprays shellac now. If I do this would I prepare the ratio the same as I have been for rubbing? Any tips or tricks you could share would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Doug
2) To my question, how do you guys balance getting stuff done vs quality? Is quality always important? Thanks again Liam
Huy
1) What is your favorite species of wood to work on with hand tools and why? Michael
2) I want to make a bow front bedroom set (night stands, chest of drawers and dresser). I plan to make the draw fronts out of bending ply and 1/16 shop sawn veneer. I was considering sawing them out of 12/4 or 16/4 cherry but some of the drawers will be 10 inches tall and I’m concerned about the stability of the wood over time.
After I bend and glue up the drawer fronts, How should I square up the ends so they are parallel plus have a flat on the back for the draw sides? Also, I usually hand cut dovetails when making drawers, since the fronts will basically be plywood, I am thinking this will be difficult. Is there another technique that you could suggest that would be strong, yet simple to make?
Also, the dresser will be two drawers wide with a single bow (each drawer will have a half bow). Whatever technique I use to make the drawer fronts on the end tables and chest of drawers will need to be different for these drawers, how do you suggest I square up the ends and create a flat on the back for the dresser drawers?
Mike
Thursday Jan 13, 2022
Thursday Jan 13, 2022
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Guy
1) Gentlemen-
Enjoying, as always, the podcast. Especially with the recent addition of my questions, and your informative, insightful, and obviously thoroughly researched and considered thoughts on my quandaries.
Onto my current woodworking-related predicament. I find myself both lacking a proper workbench, and having a surplus of black locust and white oak from my aforementioned shed project. My current workbench is a tall (40") dining room table- when it served as such, it came as set with stools, not chairs. From Bloomingdales. For $2600 f@CKING DOLLARS! IT'S MDF SCREWED TOGETHER! Who gets a tall dining room table as the only horizontal surface in a 400 square foot Manhattan apartment? My ex-wife. Because that makes sense and if it doesn't you are in the bad boy corner. Word of advice to your listeners - if your fiancée insists on haircuts that cost more than a Woodpeckers router lift, don't. Just don't and run and make up an excuse, but don't. Ever. 5 months of hard lessons right there.
But I digress.
I have enough black locust to make a 26" x 78" top at about 3.5" thick. My lumber dimensions range (rough, not nominal) from 4x4s to 2x10's. The only bench top dimension limited by the lumber is the thickness. I feel like I want a "girth-ier" bench. The legs are going to be 4x6 white oak with 2x6 stretchers and in the drawings the top looks out of proportion.
I'm a big feller (6'4") and I generate a lot of force with my hand tool work. I don't want to bring the base dimensions down to suit the current possible top thickness.
So do you think I should suck it up and go grab some more 2x6+ and get me a 6" thick top?
The goal here is to get rid of all of this black locust - it's not good for woodworking, it's the best for outdoor building, but I want to get back to woodworking.
But my parents, who live nearby, need a cathouse. The kind for sheltering an outdoor animal, not housing prostitutes. So I could potentially use the excess to make that impervious to the elements, and make my mom happy. Because apparently Jeff told her his little bitty feet get cold on the stone patio, and my dad built what looks like a homeless encampment out of tarps and pallets as a temporary shelter.
But I digress.
Tell your listeners to look @figurawoodwork on instagram they can see what I am talking about. I'm going to send you a pic direct so you don't have to dig around. Continue the superlative work, may your blades stay sharp, and your fences square. Tom
2)Hey,
Thanks so much for the podcast! I have a delta contractor saw 36-725T2. I'm very happy with the saw and it happens to line up with my work bench well. The one thing I'm struggling with is, I feel the table is a little tall. I need to really stain to look straight down on the blade to line up fine joiner cuts. Such as diver tails and tenons. I thought of lowering the saw but I like my bench height, and don't have room for an outfeed table and a bench. Which height is more important? Scott
Huy
1) Hey fellas! Love the podcast and the wealth of info you share. I’m building a dining room table out of old growth fir. I know it’s a bit silly to use such a soft wood for such a high traffic piece, but the wood came from a 12x12 post that was holding up part of my childhood home.
I’ve inset some brass pins and tubes in a flowing pattern on the table top and plan to finish it with Osmo oil ebony stain for colour to contrast the brass, but I’m stuck on what to do for an impact resistant top coat. Have any of you used a foam roller to roll on epoxy and build a couple of coats up? Would an epoxy with high solids be more durable than other more ‘tried and true’ finishes? The table is being gifted to my brother in law and they have a veeeery active toddler, so dents are inevitable but I’d like to protect it as best I can without doing an epoxy pour-over. Apologies if this question has been asked as I’m only on Ep 22! Thank you from Vancouver, BC - Bruce
2) Great podcast fellas, such a wealth of knowledge. My question is about Sherwin Williams Hi-Build Precat Lacquer (low gloss white). I’ve been spraying it thru my Fuji for a few years. I know SW can tint it but I have a big assortment of trans tint dye. Wondering if it works as well as SW tints. Thanks David Morton ,Central Kentucky
Sean
1) As I sit here coughing and assuring everyone it isn't covid I just have lungs full of Sapele, I thought to myself... The woodshop life guys can maybe help me. I try my best to wear all my PPE but I often find myself choosing between lung protection and eye (and ultimately hand) protection. I have tried many different masks and
Eye protection but every time if I am wearing both the glasses fog up and I can't see so I take off the mask. What do you all wear or have you used to overcome this. I have seen the full face mask with Ac blowers but I can't spend 500 and need something economical
Will
Thursday Dec 30, 2021
Thursday Dec 30, 2021
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) My question for you is regarding finishing. I have used an alcohol based dye and sealed it with shellac as ‘it sticks to everything and everything sticks to it’. I’m also using a water based poly over that. Specifically regarding the legs, they are an upside down ‘U’ shape or ‘A’ shape and I have them set up to brush on the poly. Would you finish the outward face and edges first, let dry and then flip to do the inner face (legs are laying flat on painters pyramids that are set up on top of the table saw). Or would you poly all sides at once and try to touch up finger marks as you go?
If I were to spray the poly, what would be my order of operations (spray one side and all edges first or all sides at once). What about orientation of the table legs (lay flat/ stand them up/hang from a wire?)
The poly I’m using is Zar Premium Finishes fast drying semi gloss. It says on the container ‘do not thin’ if spraying can I disregard this and add up to 10% water to lower the viscosity as I might with other finishes?
Thank you so very much for such an in depth dive into this glorious craft. Bruce
2) Thanks for answering my last question on stickering new cherry boards in a horizontal rack. I did sticker them and they stayed stable but in the future I will probably not if they are kiln dried as I have limited space and need to maximize.
I just completed a shaker end table with the cherry I had bought and realized when putting the top on that the painter's pyramids that I used to hold the top while I was applying the finish left dents in the top. I finished the top with a coat of BLO and then five coats of shellac. The finish looks great but the dents are ruining the look of the smooth top. I know you can steam the dents out but I am afraid to try this as I do not want to damage the finish. What are your thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks again,
Jim
Guy
1) Hi guys… I’m a truck driver and listen to your podcast allot.
Guy,, do you still use your Incra TSLS fence? Why don’t we see more woodworkers using them? Even on YouTube the videos are years old. Your thoughts please. Brent
2) Name a tool that you have that you're not particularly happy with, but for some reason have not upgraded, and give your reasons why you haven't bit the bullet and bought a better version of that tool?
Huy
1) Gentlemen- I [insert enthusiastic verb] your podcast, and think you all are etc..I have a...different...finishing question. I am about to complete a small timber framed shed. No fasteners used except 4 hurricane straps and nails for the roof deck. Guy you would hate your life here all the mortise and tenon joinery was cut by hand. The frame base, flooring, and siding are black locust, the rest of the beams are SPF. All locally sawn, and then transported on the roof of my Subaru. The roof is going to be a living moss roof (i have no lawn only moss on 4 acres). I went through the trouble of bookmatching the siding when I made it, and even though black locust will last 100 years outdoors, I would like to, as the kids say, "pop" the grain. Would you recommend any sort of oil-based finish? I know i would have to reapply periodically which isn't a problem, however sanding would be. I live about an hour outside of NYC, we have seasons. Any other info you need feel free to ask. Thanks. Tom
2) I recently bought a combination machine (itech c300). It's a HUGE step up for me, and I'm worried about neglecting something because of my own ignorance. What would you say are requirements for servicing induction motors? Any other tips or tricks for someone who has just upgraded to a serious piece of kit for the first time?
Thursday Dec 16, 2021
Thursday Dec 16, 2021
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) Recall an instance when you messed up at a critical step in a build. Then describe what you did to shake off the setback, and what if anything, you did to save the project? Michael
2) Hey guys, I have a question about “chasing the burr” when sharpening plane irons.
I use a veritas mark II guide and get a great polish on my PM-V11 plane irons with a 12,000 grit Shapton stone. After the microbevel has a consistent sheen all the way across, I take the iron out of the guide and use the ruler trick to remove the burr. I’ve tried swiping back and forth just once all the way up to 7 or 8 times.
Sometimes I can shave my forearm hairs at that point, but often have to go to a strop for a few passes before doing the ruler trick again on the 12,000 grit stone.
Since I primarily use bevel up planes with differing blade angles, I’d really prefer not to have to use the strop because it’s hard for me to tell what angle I’m at when stropping freehand.
Do you guys have any advice that can help me remove the burr without having to chase it? Damon
Huy
1) I’m moving to a new basement shop with no windows. My concern is about overhead lighting.
Did you use program to help layout of design? I’m working on tool and dust collector now.
Also I’m leaning to 4’ LED at 5k color. Suggestions? Thanks, Chris Hough
2) My current project required extensive use of a tongue and groove bit set (specifically the Freud adjustable kit) to make siding and flooring. My next project is a set of cabinets for my laundry room (lowers, uppers, and a full-height pantry). Shaker-style, no profiles on the cope-and-stick frames. Is there any reason I shouldn't / can't use the T&G set to route the rails and stiles for the cabinet doors and frames, and should purchase a set with a more "refined" profile? I like the Freud kit, you can really dial in the fit, especially for veneered center panels, but all the cool kids on the interwebs seem to use specific, profiled bits. I should mention I saw Guy did a video with an adjustable set, but you know what they say - don't trust anyone over 40 (I'm 44). Regardless there are 3 of you, so death match over it or something.
The cabinets will be made of hard maple which I know is a P.I.T.A. to work with and route cleanly, but I got a tree in the kiln and the T&G I just finished was over 1000 linear feet of Black Locust, so whatever I do will be relatively easy. Frame of reference - Huy, the Honey Locust you had a hard time on your daughter's...bassinet(?) with is 1580lbf Janka. Black Locust is 1700. Hard Maple - pffft only 1450. Cherry/Walnut right around 1000.
Thanks for the advice. I'm starting on these in early December, so I'll probably use whatever answer you provide in early January (in case your recent requests for questions have resulted in a backlog). Thanks for keeping it real. Tom
Guy
1) I have a question about cleaning my 3 HP dust collector with dual canisters. I have the Grizz G0562 but I assume that the Jet, Powermatic and other brands similar models are maintained the same. How often, if ever, should I clean the canisters and how best to do that? I recently gave my shop the semiannual leaf blower clean and when I passed the blower in front of the canisters I saw a huge amount of fine dust drop down into the bag. I somewhat often spin the handle on top of the canister but that doesn't seem to release anything noticable. Thanks fellas, keep up the great work! Jeremy
2) Enjoy the podcast and this is the second time I’ve submitted a question. You addressed my first question very well so let’s see if we can go 2 for 2.
I hear you guys, especially Guy, touting the benefits of shellac. I’m not feeling the love personally. Now I don’t use flakes and mix my own which may be the problem. I use the Zinzer product and brush it on. I have trouble with uneven coats, some areas drying too fast keeping me from working with a wet edge. Lots of runs and just generally uneven and ugly. I hear you talking about spraying which I can do but haven’t tried that yet. When spraying what do you use to clean the sprayer? I’m using ammonia per instructions to clean my brushes but not thrilled with using it on the sprayer.
Do I just need to start mixing my own to get a decent finish? Also the Zinzer leaves too much of a glossy finish, how do I get more satin? Tom
Thursday Dec 02, 2021
Thursday Dec 02, 2021
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Huy
1) Gentlemen- Had two questions, figured I would break them into two missives to keep it organized. Again, thank you for podcast.
What are some non-tool, non-woodworking-related "things" that make your time in the shop more enjoyable or productive? For example, for me, it might be my Sirius XM or Amazon Music subscriptions, pot, or the cage I keep my children in. Huy, in your old shop, maybe your mini-split. Do you have anything like that? If you say "blue tape" Mike Pekovich will eat your soul. Tom
2) I’m cutting a 7x5” opening into the countertop of a washer/dryer surround made of 3/4” walnut plywood, in order to access the water shut off if ever needed.
Anyways, I’d ultimately like to figure out a way to cut the opening and reuse the off-cut piece as the new “lid” for the opening. I have a 1/8” spiral trim bit for my router and thought to plunge it down to begin the cut… then follow the template I made.
I feel like there not a lot of room for error here… any suggestions for cutting openings in order to grain match and reuse the off-cut piece?
Thanks! Chris
Guy
1) Hey guys, Figured I’d ask your opinion on shop ceiling heights. I’ve been planning on building a new detached shop/garage next year. My original design is a shed roof with an interior height of 12’ on the high side and 9’ on the low side.
But recently I’ve been thinking maybe a gable roof with a dormer would be nice. Which could make room for a loft however the ceiling height would end up around 9’ or 10’.
Other than stacking lumber vertically, I don’t see the advantage of 12’ ceilings. Side note, I was planning on running some dust collection through the slab floor. Thanks as always, Jesse Beechland Furniture
2) I usually build cabinets with doors and drawers overlapping the face frame. However I would like to inset the drawers on a pair of Shaker style side tables that I am building. How much gap (1/16", 1/8" should I plan for between the drawers and face frame. Drawer face is just under 6" wide. I live in the Intermountain West and it remains pretty dry all year.
After I get the position set, any tips to temporarily hold drawer faces in position on the drawers until I can install screws from the inside? Wild Horse Woodworking
3) I've gotten a couple requests from family members wanting some items with the "modern farmhouse" look - specifically rough-sawn boards for some of the 'show' faces. Given that most of the tools in my shop were purchased with the intention of making wood nice and smooth and square... I was wondering if you have any tips/tricks for intentionally creating a rough-sawn look on boards. Thanks, Monte
Thursday Nov 18, 2021
Thursday Nov 18, 2021
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Sean
1)Wanted to start out by saying thank you for making my 30 min drive to and from work some of the most enjoyable and informative time of my day. My question is regarding lumber storage; I have a small one car garage shop that has a slight twist from the norm. Though it is a “garage” it is built over a basement and has a thick wooden floor. The basement space is unused and is connected to the basement of the house via a door. Do you guys think the atmospheric conditions in the basement would differ enough from the above garage space as to cause issues if I used it for my lumber storage area. My shop is well organized but pretty tight. I’ll have storage in the shop for smaller wood and I have a dedicated shelve system under my miter saw station to store all the parts for a single project minus larger sheet goods. I want to use the basement to keep 200-300 board feet to allow it to acclimatize to my shop. Side note, the basement space under the garage has a small garage door for lawnmower storage so air transfer will be similar to the garage above.
I know Guy I’ll comment so here is the answer, no I don’t park my car over the basement on the wooden floor. Thanks guys and keep up the great work. Brian
2) Hey guys, love the podcast. You guy's, all, have jointer/planers with carbide cutter heads. What kind of finish are you getting with these? Is scraping or sanding still needed for a final finish, or are your parts ready for finish? Are these cutter heads, all they are cracked up to be? Ken
Guy
1) Thanks the great podcast! I've been catching up on them recently; not quite all the way though. Haven't heard Guy use 'specificity' for a while, so if you could see to that I'd appreciate it! ;)
This question is about pocket hole joints and the need for glue - or not. Given that pocket hole joints most commonly involve butt joints, i.e. short grain to long grain, is it really worth adding glue to the mix? Part of me wonders whether with plywood having alternating grain direction to the layers might offset that a little? I realize that it probably doesn't hurt anything in the long run, but it seems like it just makes everything more slippery and difficult to align. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks and keep up the good work, Monte
2) I'm interested in what you'd recommend for a beginner-friendly spray finish setup for occasional use on projects ranging from small boxes on up to possibly cabinets - if it's even feasible for one setup to cover that kind of range. If not, what would you recommend for one vs. the other. Thanks and keep up the great work, Monte
Huy
1) So it seems every time I install hinges there is some issue with them, whether it's a lid not closing flush, a door that swings open, or spacing around a door not being consistent. I will qualify that I rarely if ever use "quality" hinges. I'm more likely to use home center or the cheaper Rockler/Woodcraft options.
Can you give any advice on having the best success with hinges? Both by hand and using power tools, please. I consider myself a decent woodworker but this continues to be an issue for me. Peter
2) I have been binge listening to your podcasts for the last several weeks and I am loving it. I love the format (especially compared to the other podcasts out there). I have learned a lot from listening to you as a new wood worker. I finally found and went to a hardwood dealer near me and bought some beautiful 5/4 and 8/4cherry. I put it on my lumber rack to acclimate to my shop. They are on a Bora horizontal rack. Do you recommend sticking them to allow air flow all around or should I just
stack one on top of the other? I look forward to your next show and hopefully I make it.
Thanks,
Jim
Thursday Nov 04, 2021
Thursday Nov 04, 2021
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) Can we talk about chisels? I know I need to get some in order to start inlaying, but I'm struggling to spot the differences (other than price) between chisels. I'm happy to sharpen my own before use. Bearing that in mind, what features should I look for? What do you each use? Why are some chisels SO expensive? Chris
2) I am Gøran from Nomad Makes on Youtube and Instagram. I am currently on my 3rd binge listen on the podcast and enjoy it immensely.
I recently watched Sean’s video an making the William and Mary Highboy and noticed him using carbide tipped tools when turning.
I know Guy has said he is not a very proficient turner. And Sean also asked the viewers to go easy in that video. However you guys turn very well for being «not proficient» and only turning occasionally. Which is why I thought you would be perfect for answering this question, as I really don’t turn that often either.
Excluding a Tormek style grinder, since I don’t have the space. My shop is 132ft2 and I have crammed in a proper cabinet saw in that space. I am considering learning to sharpen the turning tools (gauges and all) by hand or getting some with replaceable carbide tips.
What do you think would be the pros and cons?
Note that I already own a normal (not carbide) roughing gouge and 5 more turning doohickeys.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
Cheers from Bergen, Norway.
Huy
1) My Dewalt 735 planer is occasionally having issues feeding my lumber through. There will be times where it stops feeding and I try to assist it through by pushing a little or pulling from the outfeed side, although that doesn’t feel the safest. It may stop 4 or 5 times in the course of one board. It will likely leave the board with black lines across the width of the board and sometimes cause divots where the planer ate up more wood than it should have. I assume this is an issue with the rollers on the inside. I try to get rid of extra wood chips in there (I am using a DC too) and I’ve also tried mineral spirits on the rollers. Do you guys have any solutions? Matthew
2) Hey Guy, Huy, and Sean,
I recently picked up some used hand tools while on vacation on the northern coast of Maine. I picked up a 24” hand saw, a Stanley 78 rabbet plane, and a sharpening stone in a custom fit wooden box (not as nice as Sean’s sharpening station). The two sides of the sharpening some are labeled “fine” and “course”. How can I tell if they are oil stones or water stones, and if they are oil stones, what type of oil should I use? The stone looks to be mostly gray (that may just be residual steel) but might have a brown or reddish hue to them.
Additional question, if they are oil stones and I use water will that cause damage? Same question if they are water stones and I use oil. Thank you for the best Woodworking podcast.
Joshua
Guy
1) Hey Guys. Jig question for you: when do you decide on whether to keep a shop made jig or pitch it in the trash? I like saving jigs that I plan on using again but I’m starting to run out of wall space to hang them. Is there a category / type of jig that you’ll make over and over vs one where you’ll try to make it once to keep for years? Ben
2) Hi, thank you for the time you invest in this excellent podcast!
I have a question about drawers and would like to invite you to tackle this subject quite broadly:
what is the type you usually install in fine furniture, in workshop furniture,...
Can you give tips on how to fit them correctly?
What is your favorite drawer construction method?
I'm asking this question in this way because in the past year I made and installed two different cabinets (including drawers). On these builds I used a gripless push-to-open type mechanism. I’m pleased with it altough it was a bit of work to get the fronts lining up correctly. Since this build I realised this sort of work can be rather tricky and now I would like to hear your take on it!
Thanks!
Bart