Woodshop Life Podcast

Storing Plywood, Biscuit Joiners, Invisible Seams & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

 

Guy

1)Jacob from North Carolina, long time listener, 3rd time questioner.

I’m building a trestle style kitchen table that will have a painted base. Not my first choice, but happy wife happy life.  My question is:  What do y’all use to eliminate seams when painting?  Spackle, putty, or some other product.  My seams are tight, right and smooth, but when I’ve painted projects in the past, the seams remain visible.  For the trestle table legs, I would like them to be seamless and look like one piece.   Any insight is appreciated. FYI, I’ll be spraying the paint.

2) Gentleman love your podcast and have listened to every episode, keep up the great work. My question is about fence length. Currently the saw I own is a 1980 Delta Unisaw with a 52" fence. I purchased it new in 1980. I am retiring this year after I sell my company. My wife wants to purchase a new Sawstop for me because I'm always complaining about the dust collection on my old saw. She wants to buy me the Sawstop Industrial saw (I love tools), and wanted to know do I want the 36" or 52" fence.  I think I can count on one hand the number of times I used the additional length on my current fence and was just wondering do you guys have the 36" or 52" fence assembly and is it worth having the larger fence.  Normally I just have stuff sitting on it.

Second question is for Guy, as I'm in my late sixties and my skin is quite dry and I use lotion regularly I've heard you talk about using gloves in the shop. What type of gloves do you use and are you happy with them.

And one last thing Guy at 5'8" I love my Laguna bandsaw the table height is perfect for me :)  Kris

 

Sean

1) Hey guys I just wanna say thank you for the amazing contact the guys put out! I found you guys about four months ago I’ve been going through the old episodes to catch up. But I was wondering if you guys could help me out and point me to a good affordable biscuit joiner. I would love to get a festool biscuit joiner but it’s just out of my price range, is there anyway you guys can recommend A biscuit joiner that is worth the best bang for his buck. Thank you again for awesome content Ethan thompson

2) I am contemplating making a new workbench to go with my inkliened vise. I like my current workbench made of southern yellow pine but would like to add a few features like a two piece top for clamping as well as an end vise/wagon vise. My question is would ambrosia maple be a good/bad material choice for a workbench? From my wood store is $3 cheaper than soft maple. I could see the color variance possibly being an issue during use and sighting material. I'm not sure the holes in the material would be that problematic. What says you guys? Thanks, Ryan

 

Huy

1) Hey guys. New listener here! Love the genuine vibe of the show and of course all the knowledge. I build barn doors, blind mount shelves and mantles out of my garage to support my family. I recently had to switch to plywood for most builds due to cost of solid wood (1x and 2x materials) . My question is..I live in Tampa Florida and my wife hates that our pool table room has become the lumber storage room. Now that I'm using sheet goods and don't want to break them down far in advance of projects...what are your thoughts on ways to store plywood in a NON climate controlled Florida garage? Also storing solid woods as well. Oh, and my material is always pine or poplar. I would love your thoughts on this topic. Humidity, drastic weather changes hourly and no climate control? The garage is a dedicated, yet messy work space.

2)Hey Fellas, Thanks for addressing my last question on fuzzy cutting boards.  Sean was correct - I was over-sanding after each raising of the grain.  So many ways to shoot yourself in the foot it seems...

I want to ask your thoughts on the practical limits of mitre saws.  I'm sure you've addressed similar before, but as Guy often points out, what haven't you addressed before!   Maybe not from this angle perhaps?  There are folk who do anything and everything with a mitre saw and those who wouldn't  cut a precise mitre with one to save their lives.  In my journey thus far I think the most important thing for novices is to appreciate the full capabilities as well as the limitations of their equipment.

Assuming a novice user.., one with a reasonable quality mitre saw and table saw.., one who has learned to keep both reasonably well calibrated.., but one who has yet to be collecting after-market devices such as advanced mitre gages etc.. 

Can you point to any examples of types of operations that represent a limit, or exceed the limit, of what a novice should reasonably expect from themselves and their mitre saw?  Or put another way.. for this or that operation - have at it..  but at such and such a point..  well then it's time to be pursuing table saw jigs or other skillsets to get where they need/want to go?

Thanks again, hope this finds you all well, keep on keepin' on! Colin

 

Milling Your Own Logs, Checking, Maker Spaces & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin

Guy

1) Hey guys, Jonas from Germany here. Since you’re always looking for question, here is another one. As a weekend woodworker who doesn’t get much time in the workshop, I regularly get the problem that milled stock doesn’t get touched for several days before I can continue with the project. Right now I am working on an outdoor table made from European oak and there might be a few weeks between milling the boards and actually assembling the table. I have heard of the solution to use plastic bags or shrink wrap but that doesn’t really work for 7-foot boards. How do you handle stuff like that?

2) Hey guys, love the podcast and thank you for all you guys do! I made a dining room table for my sister-in-law about a month ago. The table is made out of Hard Maple and is 3.5’ wide by 8’ long. I noticed when I first bought the boards that there were some very small, hairline cracks at the very ends of the boards. After glue up I was able to square up the table by cutting the end that had the worst cracks completely off. Unfortunately, I did not have enough material to completely eliminate them from the other end. So instead, I cut as much as I could from the other end and filled the remaining hairline cracks with Plastic Glue wood filler. This seemed to have remedied the problem! I then finished the table with 4-5 coats of water based poly, achieving a nice, thick coat of finish. Now, about a month later, my sister-in-law is showing me spots where the hairline cracks are reappearing. Curiously enough, they’re reappearing from both ends too. My question is multilayered. First, is this cause for concern? The cracks are very small and not easily noticed unless you look very closely. However, will these cracks continue to grow over the years? Second, given how small these cracks are, how can I go about repairing this issue? I don’t know if thin CA glue will help with the issue or simply act as a bandaid. And I don’t believe these cracks are large enough to allow thin epoxy to seep into them. Any help/advice you guys could give would be very much appreciated!
Chris

 

 

Sean

1) Love the show and appreciate what all of you contribute to the woodworking community. I have been a hobbyist woodworker for a long time and though my projects are not fine furniture or wining any awards I truly enjoy time in the shop and making simple things for friends and family.

My question is about finishing.  I hate finishing, so much that I feel guilty sometimes that my project truly never really gets completed even those it's gifted away. I justify to myself that I'm letting the new owner finish it to their preferences but the reality is I hate that step.  I've done spray on (rattle can) shellac, poly, cheap spray paint, Briwax  and rubbed on some polyurethane but I would like to venture out a little farther without fear of ruining my hard work.

Any suggestions on how to take the next step without jumping in over my head?   I have sanders, planers, all the usual finishing tools but I'm basically lazy.

2) I am a hobbyist woodworker with a full time job to support my hobby, and I am lucky in the fact that people are asking me to make things that I want to make. With the urban lumber I am really enjoying the wild and crazy figure that comes from non-commercial trees, crotch grain especially, and the randomness of pallets (everything from cedar to white oak and an occasional exotic species). My question, since we are all woodworkers, is how much would you spend to not buy commercial lumber? As an example, I purchased my 14" bandsaw, 6" joiner, and 10" planer used for $400 total. The chainsaw and chainsaw mill cost $130. Am I crazy? Joshua

Huy

1)Good morning gents. I hope this finds you well. Thanks for the great show.

So 2 questions that are related:

1. I'm losing access to my current workshop - a 2 car garage. Renting commercial space is very expensive, so any other suggestions for finding a space for my workshop would be appreciated. I'm only looking for 400 square feet or so.
2. Because of #1, I'm considering joining a community maker space. Pros and Cons?

thanks

Mark

2) I made a slatted bench out of red oak, but I'm questioning how I want to finish it.  The bench is from Steve Ramsay's course, and can be seen here: https://www.instagram.com/p/B-LKKPyBEVE/

Because of the slats, which are about 3/4" wide and 2 1/2" deep, getting finish down there with a sprayer would be impossible, so I think I want to do something I can wipe on.  I've created my own simple finish of equal parts spar urethane, mineral spirits, and boiled linseed oil (so similar to a Danish oil) that I've wiped on to other projects with success, but not sure if there may be other options that I should consider.  This is a gift for my parents and will live inside, probably by their patio door for them to sit down on to put on their shoes.

Also, if I go the homemade Danish oil route, any suggestions on how many coats to apply, and what to do between coats? Keep up the great podcast, thank you! -Nick

 

 

Episode 99 - Resaw Blades, Finish Both Sides?, Dull Blades From Sanding & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin

 

Guy

1) I recently discovered your podcast and it has drastically improved my hour long commute to and from work. I began making attempts at creating things with wood about a year and 1/2 ago after wandering into a woodcraft and seeing all of the beautiful exotic species in person.  I made afew cutting boards and smaller items,  but nearly gave up because my few feeble attempts at joinery completely tanked. I’m kind of a high energy/ ADHD person with almost no attention span, and woodworking just wasn’t working for me. Then I found wood turning, and  found it to be extremely satisfying, almost therapeutic. I still have a long ways to go, but I no longer feel completely incompetent and have made several decent items. I eventually hope to learn some joinery techniques and attempt some small furniture type items.

I recently purchased a Jet JWBS -15 bandsaw and so far have been very pleased with it. It has a large cast iron table along with cast iron wheels. The only thing it’s missing is a brake, but since it’s my first bandsaw, I don’t miss it. This particular model, however is not carried by most of the wood working stores and very few people even mention it other than Shawn. Is there a reason why this saw is not popular? The only issue I have is that I go through bandsaw blades like water. I typically use either a green wood blade or the timber wolf 3/8” 4tpi blades and have not gotten more than a month of light use from any. Is this normal?   I cut a lot of rosewoods, ebony and dense exotic turning blanks.  I considered getting a carbide blade but they are upwards of $200 for my saw. Any thoughts? Nicole

2) Hey guys, you’ve answered a few of my questions over the years so I’m now running out of ways to say how awesome this podcast is. I just want y’all to know that it’s been extremely insightful, helpful, inspirational, and motivational (oh yeah, and funny). Woodworking is a great stress reliever for me and your podcast motivates me to keep at it, so thanks again.

My question today is about how to determine the weight-bearing capacity of something you build. I generally don’t build off plans. I find inspiration from photos online and then create my own design, but this sometimes means I’m deciding how much support to give certain pieces. For example, I recently completed an outdoor bench with planter boxes on either side. I really didn’t know how much I needed to do to support the bench and the weight of those who might sit on it. It’s 4.5 feet long, so can fit up to 3 adults at a time.

I’ll describe what I did and send some photos, but if there are any rules of thumb or resources you can share that would be helpful in determining the weight capacity for furniture builds, I’d greatly appreciate it. Thanks again for the awesome podcast. Billy

 

Sean

1) Hey guys, I'm looking to purchase a better flush trim router bit. I'm comparing Whiteside bits UDFT 5152 and the UDC 9112 from Bits and Bits with the astra coating. Other than the bit diameter, cut length, and one having two bearings. What would make you choose one over the other if the bit diameter didn't matter? Do you think the 9112 would run cooler due to the larger diameter? I plan on getting the 1/4" compression flush trim bit for small curves. Thanks for all the real world advice you give. Matt in AL

2) I'm building a console-style liquor cabinet that will have a walnut slab top. The slab is 1-1/2 inches thick, 60 inches long, and 16 inches wide. I'll be using an oil finish and am wondering whether I should apply the oil finish to both the top and bottom of the slab... or if just finishing the top (and edges, of course) is enough. It's my first time working with a slab and I don't want to screw it up!

Thanks for the great show! - Dan

https://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/finishing-both-sides-is-warped-thinking Article mentioned during Podcast.

 

Huy

1) Great show, love it! I have a small shop in Denmark, and recently I talked to a rep from Festool that told me not to sand my wood before all cutting is done, as the small sand grits would make your blades dull. What are your thought on this? Thanks, Ali @toolguy.dk

2)Hello from one of your dedicated listeners! 

My question concerns a router dropping bits.  The router in question is a fairly new Triton TRA001  3 1/4 HP plunge router.  Three times now, while making a fairly easy pass, the bit has dropped out.  The first time it happened was while I was cutting a quarter inch deep rabbet on a half inch cherry panel.  The bit cut a hole in the panel and ruined it as it fell straight down onto the floor. The two other times have been while cutting a 3/8 inch deep dado through some 3/4 inch maple ply.  

Any advice would be welcome.  And thanks for all the thoughtful and informed conversations about woodworking. Martin

 

Episode 98 -Dado Stacks, Countersink Bits, Childproofing Shop & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin

 

Sean

1)Thank you all great information from both the podcast.

Right now I have a woodriver spoke shave, wood river shoulder plane, i have buck brothers #4 four plane and block plane, both from home depot, totaling $50.  I have learned to sharpen well and get whispy shaving and a mirror surface on most woods.  Though the plane seems to loose it's setting quickly and the blade chips on any thing harder then pine. 

I have some money and want to buy a new plane.  I only have about $350 to spend.  Which plane would you recommend? I think Bevel up veritas or wood river and buying a second 50 degree blade. Scott

2) Thanks for the informative podcast.

I have a  question regarding dado blades.  I have a 10 inch delta table saw (36-725T2), and I am wondering what blade to get.  Most of the dado blades I see for sale are 8", and some 6".  Being that my table saw motor is not overly powerful , would a 6" blade be better to reduce the weight?  What are your recommendations on size and maybe some brands you have used and suggest?   Thanks. Trevor

 

Guy

1) I have a question about drilling pilot holes for wood screws. There seem to be 2 types of pilot hole/contersink bits. One style has a straight bit and the other style has a tapered bit. I have read conflicting information about the different types.

1. Are the tapered bits only for tapered screws and the straight bits for newer straight shank woodscrews or are the tapered bits preferable for everything?
2. When drilling the pilot holes should I drill a larger hole through the top board to pull the boards closer?
3. If using the tapered bits how is the countersink adjust for longer or shorter screws as the hole depths are different?
4. Should I just forget about the combination drill/countersink bits and use a separate drill and coutersink.

Thanks for your advice. Bob

2) I recently started monetizing my woodworking skills as a side hustle, which has been great as it has allowed me to upgrade a lot of my tool arsenal. I just bought a Sawstop professional cabinet saw, and of course, the differences between it and a jobsite saw are night and day. I have managed to cut both of my hands on 2 separate occasions with my DeWalt table saw (without removing digits, fortunately), so if there ever was a person who needed to invest in a Sawstop, I am that man.

I think my next buy will be a Festool (most likely) track saw, or perhaps a helical blade planer. Currently my bread-and-butter work tends to be sliding barn doors. I don't claim to be an extremely highly skilled woodworker who does intricate joinery at this point; I simply realized that I could capitalize on my accrued skills and make smaller-scale projects for extra "shop money". 

The one tool I have not invested in yet is a Jointer. I highly desire to have one but I have been able to get by for this long without it, so I am in no particular hurry to get one.

My question is this: How beneficial does having a jointer tend to be in your experience, and is it something you use all the time? Is it something you would consider a must have for any serious woodworker?

I apologize for this being long-winded. Thanks in advance. Nate

 

Huy

1)Good Evening Gentlemen....and I use that term loosely

I have been blessed to be a Dad for a little son who is now 3.5 years old. 

I have had him out in the workshop trying out some of the tools....spokeshaves, hand planes, drill press, clamps and vises, and some other hand tools that I deem safe under direct supervision.  It is so much fun to see the wheels turn as he experiments with them. 

I have made a decision to expose and introduce him to these experiences early on in the hope of planting the seed for curiosity and establishing a foundation of fundamental skills and understanding of how things are created. 

I do worry though as he becomes comfortable with different tools, he will eventually want to try and experiment on his own.  I am always reinforcing that he is not allowed to do things without me, but at some point, I do worry that he might try and do things while I am gone. 

At this time, I flip all of the breakers for the power tool circuits and I am comfortable with this solution now, however, as he gets older and might understand why I am opening and closing that grey panel, I am looking for some more control of when things run. 

Are you guys aware of any solutions with new smart breakers ect that would allow more direct control over how and when circuits can have power?  I have looked online at square D's website and I am not finding a simple solution for this in terms of a retro fit solution on a standard electric panel.  It seems like a few smart breakers that are password protected would be a perfect solution. 

Some of the tools have those yellow plastic inserts in the switch, but I was looking for something a little more elegant to control the power at the circuit level. 

Benjamin and I often listen to the show after the lights go out for bed time, so if you can keep the jokes reasonably clean that will save me some explaining later for his mother.  Love the show and keep up the great work. Brad

2) Thanks for your podcast, I enjoy it tremendously and it is obvious that the three of you are really good friends!

I recently saw a short Y.T. video from WWGOA/George Vondruska about a track saw guide rail set that can be adapted to almost any regular circular saw,  and provides accurate straight line cutting of sheet goods and dimensional lumber on a standard track rail.  (Please see the video on YT from WWGOA: "Benefits of a Track Saw | Woodworkers Guild of America ")

It would appear that you can buy these track saw rails and adapter plate,  and if the instructions are followed correctly,  bolt your regular circular saw to a base that indexes on their track accurately and with repeatability for making straight cuts.  The purpose of this is to reduce the expense of buying a single purpose saw, when you already generally have one that can be used for this purpose.

The adapter plate is bolted to your regular circular saw base with 4 bolts. (Which are supplied by True Trac), using a guide to index for square positioning of the saw onto the adapter plate.  The guide rail track is then trimmed perfectly using the saw, and performance at that point is identical to any other track saw.

There are several video clips on YT about this track, and it's available on Amazon as well as direct from the manufacturer.

It gets excellent reviews if you place any faith in them.

I believe all 3 if you esteemed gentlemen already have either the Festool or Makita track saws & guide rails, so you are extremely knowledgeable and experienced with this type of device.

Your thoughts,  please?

Thanks again for your great service to the woodworking community.

John Malcolm

 

Episode 97 -Solid Slab Tops, Our Inspiration, Alcohol in California & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin

Sean

1)Hey guys,

Thanks for all of the knowledge you guys pass on over this platform, it’s great being able to learn from others more well versed in woodworking than myself, especially when it seems that serious hobbyists are few and far between where I’m at. My question is about shellac, which it seems you guys talk about every  other, if not every, episode. Because I live in California, denatured alcohol cannot be purchased, even through Amazon. I’ve heard of people using Everclear as a substitute for denatured alcohol, but as research shows, everclear looks to be banned in California as well.

What else can I use to dissolve these shellac flaked ?? Thanks again for the sick content, Tyler

2) Before I ask my question, I just wanted to thank you for your feedback on my last project. The advice you gave me about the box I was working on was perfect. Thank you! Hoping to get your input again.

I have about $1,500 to spend on a bandsaw. Resawing is the priority. Bang for the buck is important, but in this case I could be convinced to set aside another couple hundred or so since I think that the "buy once, cry once" approach could be worth it.

If I remember correctly, Guy has a Powermatic, and I remember seeing Sean's YouTube video about the Hammer. Not sure what Huy has. Regardless, I'm very interested in your thoughts, whether you like what you have, and whether there are other options that I should consider.

Thanks again for a great podcast and for being so generous with your experience. I'm a big fan. Keep them coming! John

 

Guy

1) What is the most challenging project you've ever completed? What made it challenging? How did you approach the problem-solving required to overcome the challenge? Help us listeners get "in your shoes" and learn from your approach to tackling challenges in woodworking by providing a specific example from your experience. Thanks for all the insights you continue to share on the best woodworking podcast in the universe!

From the other side of the wall, Brian Schmidt

2)You all are an inspiration to me and have always given honest legitimate answers to thousands of questions through the years for so many folks. I’d like to know who  was an inspiration to you as you were growing as a craftsman? Especially Guy since he came up in the trade before the internet and social media. Secondary question if you had the chance to meet or learn from one craftsman, who would that be? Brent Jarvis

 

Huy

1)Kind sirs-

After my last couple of diatribes I'll endeavor to keep this question brief. My wife is a lovely, patient woman and for Valentine's Day I would love to make a pair of nightstands she's been hinting at for a while. Of course, I would have needed to start those two months ago to have any chance at making February 14th. But maybe for next year, with your help.

I'll be making these out of some walnut scavenged from the power company clearing lines. I took two roughly 18" long x 24" diameter logs, and hand-ripped them into rough parts (1" panels, 2" leg stock) about 18 months ago with this in mind, they've been air-drying since.

My conundrum is that these logs are from BRANCHES - the actual tree, still standing, is about 6' in diameter. So for nightstands, wanting a roughly 16" x 22" top, though my inclination is to use the nicest "slabs," maybe get a little sap wood in there, my gut tells me that will look nice for a year and then end up like Sean's cherry table panels, especially because they're air-dried.  In your esteemed opinions, should I further rip the slabs into dimensional lumber and then glue up panels for construction? Aesthetically, I could probably use some "traditional" furniture, my wife says the house looks like the Keebler elf village already, we have a 14' long 4" thick live edge mantle, all maple trim with walnut plugs, and I use interesting off-cuts to trim windows.

That was brief, for me. Thanks Tom

2) Thank you so much for taking the time every two weeks to produce this outstanding podcast, which I have thoroughly enjoyed, and have integrated many of your ideas and tips into building my shop and developing skills as a woodworker.

I am in need of an outfeed table, and also a stable, dead flat assembly surface.  I think that Huy's "MO/AT" is a terrific solution, but I have a few questions.

I know that the torsion box portion is based on Ron Paulk's popular workbench, which includes the dog holes (that I really want to utilize for clamps, etc.), and the interior storage space.  Also, the removable hardboard surface, with its reference dowels, is a great idea that requires access inside the box.

However, I have watched torsion box build videos by Guy, Steve Johnson, Marc Spagnolo, and others, and their designs all differ in that they are thinner, and have a much denser array of "honeycomb" grid elements, which suggests to me a greater chance of remaining dead flat.  But of course, they do not allow for meaningful use of dog holes, or interior access.

So I am looking for the best compromise design, one that allows the dog hole array and all of the clamping options, but also has the best longevity for staying flat.  Is there a best height, best grid layout configuration that I can aim for? I'm thinking that between you three engineers, the perfect solution will be forthcoming.

Thank you, and please keep up this very much appreciated podcast! Best, Tom Stanley

 

Episode 96 - Dust Collector Filters, Piston Fit Drawers, Drill Press Selection & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

 

Guy

1)First I want to say fantastic podcast guys.  By far the best woodworking podcast out there.  I recently discovered the podcast and have binge listened to old past episodes while building the cabinets for our new home.

We are building a new home with a shop / garage combo and I finally have the space to buy the tools that I have never had the space to own before.  Next up on my list is a drill press and trying to decide what size to get.  Bench top model vs floor model, size motor, features to look for, etc.  I build furniture and cabinets mostly but like pushing my creative side and making other odd things as well.   I want the best bang for the money but don’t mind spending a little extra to get what will be my lifetime drill press.

Thanks for your help.  Keep up the good work.  Plan to be a long time listener but I didn’t buy a SawStop so I might die soon!  LOL. - Tom

2) My question is regarding learning more about design for my projects. Up to now most of my projects have been based on an existing design or product. I scroll Instagram, Pinterest, furniture store sites and find pieces similar to what I want and duplicate them or mash a few together to make my “own”. I’d like to start developing a design style of my own or pick a lane of design such as Mission or Greene and Greene and focus a little more on that.

Can you recommend any books or authors to give me a better understanding of the popular design periods that speak to the elements, features, woods used and so on for the various periods of design to help pick one?

I’d also be interested in any books that teach elements of a good design like proper proportions, and similar for furniture building so I can design and build a well balanced piece.

There is so much it might be impossible to put it all in a book, but you all offer good insight to us listeners so I’d welcome whatever you have to offer of any recommendations you might have. Thanks all! Mike

 

Sean

1) Gents - Found your show mid way through a 22-hour drive into Mexico. Listening to you - particularly Guy- reminds me of the people and shops I visited while a board  member of the San Joaquin Fine Woodworking  club in California. Simple, not too fussy advice that is useful for those picking up the woodworking hobby or far into the deep end this avocation. Keep up the good work.

You’ve spent a fair amount of time discussing the likes and dislikes of Waterlox. A recent project was a 42” x 78” patio table from 4/4 and 8/4 sapele. Legs are 5” square steel tube tapered and coped in a McIntosch style. As it would live outdoors, I opted to finish with Waterlox Marine Finish in gloss. Prep: Sand to 220 grit; vacuum and compressed air; wipe down with mineral spirits; apply Waterlox with a Jen foam brush. The first coat  was a disaster with dime size voids in the finish … as if the surface was waxed before the Waterlox went down.  I believe  the cause was the mineral spirits: I applied the finish about a half hour after after the wipe down … something I often do without issue with spar urethane. Subsequent coats went down fine after letting the piece off gas for four days. My thinking is the tung oil interacted with the residual solvent. Thoughts? Thanks - Craig P.S. Mentioned the foam brush brand because I’ve found it to be the only that rivals a high quality bristle brush for brush application

2)Hi guys, thanks for the podcast, really helpful info! Keep hearing your requests for more questions, so here are a few.

You talked a lot about dust extraction recently. I've seen people claiming that by replacing the filter bag with a fine cartridge filter people have seen major improvements in the performance of their extractor units. Do you have any experience with these? Thanks for all the time you put in, love listening.

Best wishes - Chris (UK based enthusiastic amateur)

 

Huy

1)Hi, long time listener that truly appreciates all of the wisdom and humor you have provided over the years in your great podcast.

I have a couple design questions for a sofa and a pair of side tables I am making for my living room.  They are a pretty simple design that uses mortise and tenon joinery for the aprons and legs.  I use my router with a 1/4" bit to make the mortise, and the table saw with a dado blade to make the tenons.  The legs will be just under 2" from the thickest material I can get from my 8/4 stock and about 28" long.  The aprons will be 3/4"thick and 6" tall, they could be slightly thicker, they will come from 4/4 stock.

I want to try my hand at piston fit drawers instead of using drawer slides.  How would you attach the inner structure that supports the drawers underneath and on the sides inside the table?  I don't have a domino or biscuit joiner.  I have never had good results with pieces attached with pocket holes staying in place during installation and I am afraid the slight movement will ruin the piston fit. Thank you. Julio

2)Gentlemen-

Congratulations as you near your 100th episode, and well-deserved syndication riches. I'm about to complete my workbench of air dried black locust (top) and white oak (base). I am installing leg and twin screw tail vises. I will need to procure additional lumber for the thick components of both. I thought it might look nice to use some Walnut, but I can only get  12/4 kiln dried. I don't see a problem with the leg chop, it's attached with the vise hardware, but would dovetailing a kiln dried tail skirt onto an air dried laminated top would be asking for problems? Thank you for any advice or relevant anecdotes you may have.

Tom

 

 

Episode 95 - Managing Rust, Building Kitchen Cabinets, Secondary Woods & MUCH More!

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Sean

1)First off I want say how much I’ve enjoyed listening to your podcast over the past year or more.  With the right balance of instruction and interaction between the hosts, it’s both informative and entertaining.

I’ve been woodworking for quite some time and I ran across something I never experienced before and was hoping you might have some insight.  I’m building a floor lamp with three curved legs as a base.  I made a template for the leg profile out of ¼ inch hardboard.  Using a straight pattern bit on my router table, I was able to easily create three legs out of ¾ plywood for my prototype.  Happy with the design I used the template to trace out the legs on some ¾ walnut.  I then rough cut out the legs on the band saw, leaving a 1/16inch of material outside of the line.  From there it was back to the router table where I attempted to flush cut the legs using the template and straight pattern bit. This gave me no trouble at all when routing the plywood prototype legs, but as soon as I carefully eased the walnut into the bit, it would immediately catch and tear out. I purchased a ¼ inch spiral flush trim bit and also used a starting pin but the results where the same. I continued to get bad catches and tear out no matter how carefully or slowly I went.  In all my years of woodworking, I’ve never run across anything like this. Any ideas on what I could do different? Terry

2) Hi guys and thanks again for making the ULTIMATE (remember that episode?) woodworking podcast,

And by the way, thanks for answering my last question.  I live in Bergen, Norway and a small local timber merchant is selling Beech (I guess it is European beech) and Alder (again European alder I believe) at quite a reasonable price. Here in Norway poplar is not readily available.

Given a choice between the two, which would you choose as a secondary wood (for drawers and parts that won't be seen)? And if you were to make furniture project wholly out of one of them, which would you choose? And of course, why?

Both are rated as perishable. The beech is quite a lot harder according to the janka scale. 6460N vs. 2890N. The beech is supposedly superb for steam bending, but I have yet to get there in my skill set. And both seem to have quite good workability.

I am not sure I appreciate the ray fleck look or the slightly yellow look on the beech that I have seen, but that may be fixed during finishing if the other attributes make it worth while. I have however, little experience with alder. Looking forward to your discussion on this. Sincerely, Gøran Eliassen Nomad Makes

 

Guy

1) Hey guys. My question is about pricing your woodworking and getting past imposter syndrome. I have recently started making some items for a group of dog breed enthusiasts and I have experienced a substantial growth in demand for items that fall much more into the "art" category than the "furniture" category. As a hobbyist woodworker,  I do not have a huge portfolio of work that I've sold, only a few items here and there. Moving forward, I plan on building into a more substantial business. I obviously want to price my work at what it's worth, but I can be very self conscious about my skills and tend to undervalue what I'm worth. I obviously want to sell as much as I can, but how do I sell my work at a value that gets its out into the world without setting a low bar price-wise for the future? I am my harshest critic. Joshua

2) Hey Guy(s)! Thankfully this question is not very time sensitive, so hopefully you can get to it before I need to take your answer(s) into consideration.

My wife and I are in the process of redesigning our kitchen that is in need of a serious facelift. We plan on contracting out the plumbing and electrical and fortunately aren’t doing any structural modifications to the house itself.

Our current debate involves the cabinetry. I’m a fairly competent woodworker and love a good challenge. Personally, I’d rather take the money we would pay a cabinet shop to build and install new cabinets and make some needed upgrades and additions to my own workshop to do them myself. I’m not a fan of raised panel designs so I’ll probably do more shaker style cabinets. 

I have a Sawstop contractor saw, 14” bandsaw, 13” planer, basic router table, bench top drill press, and an older model Festool track saw, plus various other hand tools

Considering I expect to save somewhere in the range of $5-10K by doing it myself, what additional tools would you recommend? As specific as you’d like to be would be great if you have machines you’ve been very happy with.

Side note: we had to take down a large white oak in our back yard and I plan to have it milled up and kiln dried to continue its life on our property.

Thanks for your time and your continued insight to help us all become better woodworkers!

Shawn @terpax

 

 

Huy

1) Aloha Boys!

 I have a question about managing humidity and rust in the workshop.  I live in Hawaii and have my workshop in a detached garage.  Most buildings here including my workshop have jaulosie style windows and I can't completely seal and temperature control my shop.

 I am spraying or wiping down my larger tools with T-9  and other rust inhibitors,  but many of my other various tools and equipment are quickly rusting.   

 Outside of temperature controlling a shop, any other tips tricks or ideas? Are silicone gel packs a waste of money?   Would it be crazy to put rubber weather sealing on cabinet doors?  Mahalo boys, you are the best! Matt

2)Hey again, love the podcast and the advice you give. Recently you answered why I suck at hinges, and one reason mentioned was the cheap hardware I often use. This lead me to another thought. When do you buy the hardware for a project? Before you begin, or once it's all made?

I tend to wait until after the project is made, and unfortunately that also means I sometimes struggle to find hardware that will work. I've been known to buy many different sets of hinges to take home and see how they look on a box, or even carried boxes into Rockler to try there.

I've also ran into the issue of fit. I recently made a shoe-shine box, and when I planed the lumber, i just ran it through until I thought it looked good. I didn't measure at all. But when I went to buy hinges, the odd sizing left me with hinges that were either too big and stuck out, or not strong enough for the weight of the lid/shoe support. I ended up with external hinges that I didn't like, and 3 of them for strength, all because I didn't plan ahead. My wife likes it, but what does she know about design?  Peter

 

Episode 94 - L-Fence, Flattening A HUGE Table top & MUCH More!

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Sean

1) Jolly good day Guy, Huy, and Sean. I've always found the imperfections in wood like knots, funky grain, and discoloration to be interesting. I have decided to try and start using them more as design aspects in my projects. I am tackling using a knot for the first time and other than "use epoxy" I am at a loss as to what brand, type and tints. There is a myriad of options. Any recommendations on products, methods and tints for an end table top knot in mixed clear/brown yellow birch? As always, thank you for sharing the knowledge! - 

I want to Stabilize mostly, but I have heard that clear epoxy yellows. Should I tint darken to handle that? Daniel Stickman Woodworking

2) Thank you guys for everything you do with the podcast. My question for you is about table top flattening. My current situation is with a 42”x90” dining room table that went a little wonky during the glue up. A couple of the boards came out of alignment with the rest and so now the top is not flat. I know where I messed up and how to prevent this in the future, but I’m wondering what your suggestions would be to flatten a top of this size back to everything being even. I am currently using my router sled to do this and it is very time consuming. Thank you  in advance for you answers. Sincerely, David Glowacki

3)Hey guys.  I love the podcast.  I learn something new from each episode.  Thank you for answering my question and all the hard work you put into your tube and podcast.

I'm currently working very hard to increase my brand recognition to try and make wood working a full time thing.  I know none of you have your own "Full time woodworking gig". and I feel that is a choice. It seems like you guys could break out full time.  Any advice on how to increase my reach to people to start bringing in more business would be super appreciated. 

Scott Bonin @tomrarwoodworks

 

Huy

1) Thank you for the great podcast!  I listen to it all the time and get so much out of it! 

I just recieved a free delta unisaw with sliding table.  Two question on this table saw:

1: This saw does not have a riving/splitter.  Thoughts on adding one??

2: I want to rebuild my shop around this saw.  Right now my table simply butts to my work bench which is also my out feed table. I would like to attach the bench/outfeed table to the saw but the floor is not level.  (garages shop). Would you build to level?  ie, level the saw and build everything to that plane or build to square with the floor. 

Great pod cast! Great people!  GREATEST INFO! Scott

2) Hi folks - I am moving in the next year, and am hopeful that I can sell many of my current stationary tools and move up to some used industrial-scale equipment. However, I have never purchased equipment that I couldn’t transport myself or simply have dropped off with lift gate service. I am interested to hear any advice regarding the transportation of large tools back to the shop after winning them at auction far from home (for example). I love my Toyota Tacoma but I’d be limited to picking up one tool at a time, which would be a real scheduling nightmare. Does one hire riggers to load a truck, have the truck driven to one’s own place, and hire riggers to get the stuff off the truck? I don’t have a forklift or anything like that (yet), and as much as I would love to I would rather direct my funds at tools vs material handling equipment. I am simply an enthusiastic amateur looking to get into large equipment for both the fun and the machines’ capacity. Andrew

3) The amount of information you all have given to the community has helped out so many folks and I’d like to say thank you for your knowledge and dedication.

My question is in the concerns of a L fence. I have been hearing about them lately and would like to know if any of you have used one. From what I have seen and understand is it increases the safety of making certain cuts. Could you help us understand what an L fence is and if it’s worth making.

Again, thank you all for the information you have given to us all.

Brent Jarvis Clean Cut Woodworking

 

Episode 93 - Bandsaw Drift, Fuzzy Boards, Rearranging The Shop & MUCH More!

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Sean

1) Hey Guy,Huy,& Sean.  I just picked up a pair of Mitutoyo calipers.  I use a straight edge and feeler gauges to set up machines like my jointer.  Do you guys use precise tools like calipers,feeler gauges, and straight edges.  when your building furniture, it seems like they could be really useful.   All 3 of you have that engineering type of brain. (Huy being an actual engineer).  If you do use them in your furniture.  What do you use them for?  Or are tools like calipers overkill for woodworking. Cheers, Nate

2) When you bring a new tool into the shop do you find yourself using that tool as an excuse to rearrange your shop, even if it’s an upgrade from a tool you already have?

I’ve found myself rearranging my entire workflow every time I introduce a new tool even if the one I’m upgrading one that’s been in a certain spot for years.

I hope all has been well with you and your families. Please continue with the fantastic content! Thank you for your time. Brent Jarvis Clean Cut Woodworking

 

Huy

1) Hey my name is Mike from odd materials woodworks I have been really enjoying your podcast.

I have been following all three of you for a while.

Anyways in listening to some of your past podcasts you have discussed the mft with the flip up arm and how you don’t use it anymore.You just use a set of dog with the rail clip which I have been thinking of switching to. My question is how would you approach making repeatable cuts on an MFT style table? Thanks again Mike

2)What is your method for fixing drift when re-sawing with a fence on your bandsaw? Michael

 

Guy

1)Hi Guys, love the show and the chemistry between you guys, I'm fairly new in the woodworking world with previous experience as a finisher, now I moved to making my own furniture line. I have three questions for you guys:
1- Any tips for crosscutting plywood?
2- How do you guys keep the shop organized with the leftovers of material?
3- If budget weren't an issue what would you buy first a Festool Track Saw or a Sawstop Cabinet Saw?? (I mostly work with sheets of plywood) Thank you and keep up the good work, Karel
 

2) Hope this is a quick one for ya - I'm stumped on something and it's making me crazy.  I'm making cutting boards, I've got about 10 under my belt at this point.  Most of my quality priorities are improving nicely with time and experience but I have a problem with finishing; specifically grain that raises on my finished product shortly after the board gets put into use. 

For context I'm talking about edge grain boards.  I get a great glue-up, scrape them down, finish plane, then onto sanding.  I take it to 180 all around, then I raise the grain.  I take that down with 220, then I raise it again.  I really thought that raising the grain twice, incrementally, would give me an extra level of redundancy against surface issues moving forward.  I finish with 320, then go with a generous treatment of mineral oil followed by the 4-1 oil/beeswax routine. 

The "fuzziness" isn't across the entire board, but there's enough of it there to both mystify and frustrate me.  I really put a lot of work into these and I'm trying to get the highest quality that I can achieve.  Everyone expects a board to need care, but my gut says that sandpaper shouldn't be involved.

What am I overlooking here?  Any assistance will be greatly appreciated; love the show, keep up the great work.  collin

 

The Real Episode 92! Prototyping For Strength, Stair Tread Staining, Radial Arm Drill Press, & MUCH More!

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Sean

1) I’ll save you the airtime by not mentioning how awesome y’all are and how awesome your podcast is because you already know that. If Huy and Sean didn’t know that already just ask Guy… he will talk for hours!  Hahah
Two part question is… when contemplating buying a new tool do you let the space you have for that tool determine if you’ll be getting one over the other?  Also, when you bring a new tool into the shop do you find yourself using that tool as an excuse to rearrange your shop, even if it’s an upgrade from a tool you already have?
I’ve found myself rearranging my entire workflow every time I introduce a new tool even if the one I’m upgrading one that’s been in a certain spot for years.
I hope all has been well with you and your families. Please continue with the fantastic content! Thank you for your time.
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking

2) Hey fellas, I'm looking into a new drill press.  I'm looking to spend about 500$.  I noticed the rikon radial arm drill press is the same price as the standard drill press.  why wouldn't I buy the radial arm drill press? 

Thanks Scott

 

Huy

1) Howdy from Madison, AL!  I’m pretty new to woodworking although 
I have been building (and finally finished) our kitchen cabinets including 43 drawers!  Now I’m getting into ‘finer’ woodworking and am building a 2” thick (6’x4’ oval) walnut/maple kitchen table.  My question is about building a base for the table - any idea how to prototype the build so that I can see if the base will actually hold all the weight of the table?  I can build it in Sketchup but that really won’t tell me how much weight it will support… I also thought about building a ‘tulip’ style base as our home has very contemporary styling… 

Adrian Abshire

2) First off, this MAY be a repeat (I’ve sent it to SOME podcast but who can keep them all straight ?). I’m making a high chair for a friend, which I hope to complete before the kid goes off to college, from box store mahogany so I’m thinking it’s sapele. I’d love suggestions on how to finish so it’s both durable and safe for a tiny human to gnaw on
Jason

 

Guy

1) Hey guys I’ve been listening from the start. Awesome podcast and has been super informational so thank you for all you do. My question to you guys is, is it worth upgrading my dwelt 734 to a helical head or buy a new 735 four post and upgrade the head later on?(money reasons for later on) The 734 has worked great for my for about 3 years. My only complaint is the knives are crap. They don’t last very long. My question is it worth upgrading the old 734 Vs getting a new four post and upgrading later. It’s a better machine so maybe it will last longer in the end. Thank you for your time!  Mike

2) Hello. My brother-in-law’s house flooded during a recent hurricane. They have a heavy duty metal circular staircase that had carpet covered plywood stair treads that were trashed. I’ve made new stair treads with red oak and was planning to use Osmo to finish, but now they say they want them “dark”.
What product would you recommend to both darken and seal that would hold up long-term to foot traffic. I’m thinking a stain with Osmo might eventually wear off leaving an uneven color.
Thanks in advance, Mike Sibley Sibley Manor Woodworks