Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking
Episodes
Thursday Jan 12, 2023
Thursday Jan 12, 2023
Guys Questions:
Hey gentlemen, welcome Brian. I have a commission for a big walnut slab table that will live in a nook with windows on 3 sides (lots of UV exposure). What do you recommend for finishing. I seem to recall Guy mentioning some walnut finishes don’t hold up well to UV exposure. I’m probably a month out from delivery so hopefully this makes it to the show before then! Sincerely your accidentental woodworking fabricator. Will
In the past I’ve done a few small veneering projects and am currently working on one which will require a few larger panels- about 24”x 31”. Previously I used a train-load of clamps and cauls to press the veneer but now I want to step up my game so I ordered a vacuum press. Thanks to a few of Guy’s videos the process seems pretty straightforward but I do have a question on the glue. For veneering my only experience is with Titebond cold press veneer glue with good results but in some videos I’ve seen some folks recommend Urea-formaldehyde glue - especially for larger panels. Do any of you have experience with this stuff? Sounds a bit nasty but if it’s better for the application I’ll give it a shot. Thanks! Jeffrey
Brians Questions:
Been listening to the podcast for a couple years now, and while I'm sorry to see Sean step away for now, I'm happy that you found someone willing to chip in! Two things, both mainly for Brian. One, you've mentioned that you don't have much of a social media presence or any way to really show case your work. While a lot of people do turn to Facebook, Instagram, etc. for this... I wonder if maybe simply an account on SimpleCove.com (Sean's website) might be a good fit? Two... work bench. Lots of questions - what style are you planning (Roubo, Nicholson, Moravian, Shaker, hybrid, something else?), size, what kind of wood are you thinking of using - fancy with hardwoods, or something simpler ala Siemensen's Naked Woodworker bench or Schwarz's Anarchist Workbench (both 2x construction lumber)? I think you'd mentioned still being up in the air about vise hardware - are you leaning towards wood screws like Lake Erie Toolworks, or metal like Benchcrafted? Maybe Hovarter, which has some quick-release options? And then the really big question... dog holes. Round or square? Answer carefully ;) I'm one of those people who has to fight the urge to build almost every bench design I see. Started with a Nicholson, but kind of went off in a weird direction with it and didn't like how it turned out. Deconstructed it and re-purposed most of the lumber for other projects. Couldn't make up my mind what I wanted to build next (not enough room for one of each!) so I put some inexpensive import (Yost) vises on a utility bench in the shop, and have been living with that for now. Not ideal, but it's letting me work out a few ideas on a trial basis before I have to commit. Very much looking forward to hearing (or seeing) more about your bench project! - Monte
Thank you all for spreading the knowledge and answering questions. I find myself building more cabinets lately out of plywood and I'm edge banding them with solid lumber (I go with 5/16 on the banding). I cut the banding a little wider than the sheet goods, glue it on and then trim it flush. I'm running into some issues during the trimming that I'm hoping you guys can chime in on. Often times, when I'm trimming the banding I get a little gouge here and there on the face veneer. It's not a huge deal on paint grade stuff but when I'm using something like walnut, cherry or white oak ply, it becomes a problem. What tips do you have for trimming the edge banding cleanly and efficiently without damaging the veneer? Below are some things I've tried and some of my experiences with these methods. I'm curious if you have other methods, or if you have some tips to improve what I'm already doing. Things I've tried so far: - Router balanced on the edge - so far the worst method. Too tippy and additional supports can take a while to set up, with ocasional slipups still. - Router jig - I saw Fredie @periodcraftsmen share a jig for flush triming the edge banding and I copied it. The jig has a flat wide reference face that rides on the panel face (laid flat) and it has a 90 degree fence that holds up a trim router horizontally. Using a downcut bit, the router is adjusted so that the bit is almost flush to the reference face and it trims the edgebanding protruding above the flat face. I hope you can picture that. This gives good results but I ocasionally run into issues at the start and end of the panel where the jig may want to tip a bit and bite into the face. - Tall fence on the table saw - using it kind of like an L-fence, the sacrificial face is set up above the blade and flush with the outer teeth. The panel rides the fence vertically and the edgbanding rides under the fence where it gets trimmed off. This so far gives the best results especially when I went to an extra tall fence to give it more of a bearing surface and not let the panel tip. Ocasionally the panel is a bit bowed which gives it a bit of trouble and it can be a bit unwieldy if the panel is large. Can be hard to keep it flat on a long panel. It is fast though. - Hand plane - using a block plane carefully work it down. I have still bit into it a few times when not careful but this is overall the most accurate method. It is slow though and can be a pain if there is a lot of trimming. - Bojan
Huy's Questions:
When you're building a piece of furniture (like a dresser), do you follow a specific order? Like cutting everything first, arming (make sure that everything works), disarming. Karel
I love your podcast. You try hard to fully answer questions asked and not provide flippant answers like other shows do. That’s what makes this show great. Now to my question. I have been wanting to upgrade my sanding game. I want to reduce the vibration, have it stop quickly, and produce a great result. I would love to hear your thoughts on what you look for in sanders such as the size (5 or 6 in), pad types (soft through hard), brands you have used and liked, and what brand of paper you buy. I’m starting to realize no one sander does it all anymore, so do you have a progression of sander purchases you would make for a simple furniture maker? Thanks you for anything you provide. - Brian Russell
Thursday Dec 29, 2022
Thursday Dec 29, 2022
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Guy's Questions:
Hey guys, Have a, “what is your favorite finish” question. While this has been asked and answered a thousand times, I’m struggling to find a good answer for my scenario. I’m putting up a pine tongue and groove wall in a small bathroom. What would you suggest for the best and easiest application for finishing a wood bathroom wall with irregular surfaces? I want a slightly amber but not darkening, matte to approaching semi-gloss finish. I prefer to prefinish the uncut boards and cut to fit. Preferred options for finish application are either my electric spray gun or wipe on finish…although with the irregular surface I don’t want a difficult wipe on finish option. -Zack
Hey guys, I enjoy the podcast. I recently got a festool domino. I wanted to see if you guys could provide some tips that would help a new user. Also if you have bought or made some jigs that you would recommend. Thanks, Scott Birmingham, AL
Brian's Questions:
Hello! I hope you all are doing well! I live in the great state of Alabama just up the road a short bit from Huy in Toney. I greatly enjoy your podcast as it is definitely the best one on the subject of woodworking! I would consider myself a hobbyist woodworker although, I have built some commissioned pieces. I have a Ridgid contractor saw mounted to the mobile stand that it came with. I use this saw for all sorts of projects, including ripping full sheets of plywood. My question is concerning the riving knife. Are there any benefits to the dang thing? I may have bent mine during a previous operation but, it seems to me that it just gets in the way and prevents me from being able to move material smoothly through the blade and is causing burning in some or most of my cuts. Also, I am using the blade that came with the saw. Should I swap to a different blade? Is the brand of blade as important as the type of blade? Thank you very much for answering my questions and I look forward to listening to many more episodes of the podcast. Juston Bohannan
Huys' Questions:
I thought these two might lead to some good conversations. 1. If you were to build a set of dining chairs. What is your absolute tool you couldn’t do without. Would it be a domino or would you spring for a panto router. Maybe a shaper origin. 2. Besides a captured veneered panel could you get away with 1/16 veneers on one side and 3/32 backing veneers on the other side on a panel? Essentially would you veneer a panel with different thickness of veneers on either side. Reason I ask I might make a builtin shelving unit with 1/16” veneer on the front and some 3/32 backing veneer on the back side that faces the wall. It would be captured with the cabinet carcass dado so I would assume it wouldn’t potato chip. But who knows. Jesse @ beechlandfurniture
Thursday Dec 15, 2022
Thursday Dec 15, 2022
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Guys Questions:
Hello fellas. I greatly appreciate your show, as its the only one that I haven’t gotten tired of over the years. I’m making a chimney cupboard for the most difficult of clients – my wife. She really dislikes, frame and panel doors and wanted solid doors. So there will be two 40 inch high by 20 inch wide – full overlay doors. I’m using beautiful air dryer sinker Cypress for the entire piece. I’ve convinced her that big slabs of solid wood doors would potentially bow or twist overtime, so I have developed an idea of making each door like this - I’ve sourced a 26 inch wide 8 foot board. after milling and cutting to 44 inch pieces, I cut the middle out to be the panel and will use the adjoining pieces for the rail and styles. The panel will be tongue and grooved to sit flush with the front with the styles - with an 1/8 inch gap. Therefore, it will be a frame and panel door, but out of one piece of wood that looks solid. My question is relating to the inside panel and its thickness. It seems if I leave it thicker (currently 5/8”) it will be more prone to twisting the frame, where if I bring it down thinner like 3/8”, it may be more prone to splitting. Please let me know your thoughts . Thank you so much. Mike Sibley
Hi Gents. Love the show. I've invested in a 3 stage sprayer and have been trying it out, getting the hang of it. Any General advice to a new sprayer user? Also, while a perfect coat is the goal, would it be better to put down too much, or too little of 'sprayables'? It seems too little is much easier to fix. Usually just add another coat after it's dried. Thanks for the great show! Mark Bett
Brian's Questions:
Guy’s, I love the podcast and listen often but haven’t caught completely up yet. What is a good method of making mortise and tenon jointery with a router only? I’ve got a Bosch 1/2” router and intent to buy a router table too. I’ve seen various jigs on the market but was wondering what the best option is for the money having only a router, and small DEWALT 8.5” lunchbox table saw. I intend to build smaller household furniture such as side tables, nightstands and a dresser. Thanks for the advice, love the show, Dave Huffman
I would love to get a subscription to a woodworking magazine for my fiance for Christmas. He's a big fan of your podcast. You have mentioned one before but now I can't find it. What are your suggestions? - Lauren Zontini
Huy's Questions
I have a Dewalt 733 planer and the blades are starting to go dull. I saw online where I could build a jig out of a 2x4 by cutting 2 slots at 42 degrees angles and placing my blades inside the slots. You would then run the blades over a sharpening stone to give it a new edge. Is this a good method for sharpening my blade or should I be looking for another method. Keep making this podcast and I am sure that all of us out here listening will continue to tune in and keep asking questions. Happy Holidays to all of you Cory
Sorry if this is a repeat only mostly caught up. The wife wants a painted double dresser. I dislike painted furniture and prefer to work with maple or walnut but we compromised… so the wife’s getting a painted double dresser. I intend to use plywood since it’s a paint grade project but don’t have much experience with it. What’s a good construction method for plywood? I’ve got a small table saw, 1/2” router, kreg jig and hand tools. Can I get way with using the kreg jig and but joints for carcass construction? How about plywood drawers? I intend to use latex paint, should I add a top coat over it? Many Thanks, love the podcast Dave Huffman
Thursday Dec 01, 2022
Thursday Dec 01, 2022
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Guys Questions:
Hello fellow wood shop enthusiasts! I was recently watching Guys YouTube videos of the secretary with tambour doors. He made a comment about sanding the door to I think 350, but also made a comment about treating the end grain differently so that it would not take on more oil and I assume darken it more then the face. He did not really elaborate on the technique. How is end grain treated differently when applying oil finishes and when staining? - Unkown
Hey guys this is Mason from Blairswoodshop again. A follow up from the first question I asked about the jet 16-32 conveyor belt, I did what you said and now there is no more constant adjustments and it seems to work great now thank you for the help! Now for the next question. I have some really nice looking spaulted maple, as you know it's not structurally the most sound. I was thinking about maybe making it into thin veneer for box lids and things like that. I have no veneering experience or a vacuum pump, what is a cheap way to start veneering with out breaking the bank? I've been spending so much on tools last thing I need to do is go to the wife saying I need more tools haha, Thank you all for what you guys do! Look for to hear what you guys suggest. P.S. I do have everything to make the veneers just looking for diffrent ways to attach it to my work pieces. Mason Blair
Brian's Questions:
1- I have a Dewalt dw735 planer and so far so good, But I noticed that if I try with a wide plank the planer makes a noise that sounds like it's too much for him to handle, how do you guys use a planer? One dimension several passes with 32s increments? - Karel
Any advice for someone trying to start their own woodworking buisness? I do small crafts currently, but I plan to start selling furniture in the near future . Feel free to check out what I’m doing at the moment. - Dillon
Huy's Questions:
Hey guys, Do you know where I can find information on guidelines for building furniture? (i.e. website or books) For example, I'm looking to build a queen size platform bed frame with 20 inch legs and use castle joint joinery to connect the four sides to the legs. I'm trying to figure out what the minimum size the four sides, feet should be and how deep should the castle joints be? Deeper than my 10 inch table saw can cut? Thanks for all the great help. - Matt
I would like to monetize my woodworking as a side business, if possible, in the future. Honestly, I am not sure if that means cutting boards or commissions, but I am leaning towards some simple stuff and seeing where it goes. I’ve thought of adding some sort of CNC to the mix. I am on the fence if I should go the route of a Shaper Origin as I can use this to make patterns for furniture projects, aid in doing some repetitive work, and do some custom accents on small items to personalize items for people or do I go the route of getting a Onefinity or other similar sized DIY CNC machine? The Onefinity would obviously take up much more room and cannot be brought to the project but could work on its own so to speak so if I am going to try and make money it can be working on something while I am doing something else. So, the part two to this question is if I go this route do you think I should get an add on laser attachment again for decorative personalization of future items to be made?
Thursday Nov 17, 2022
Thursday Nov 17, 2022
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Guy
1) Hi Guy, Huy, and Sean. I have a question about prefinishing and glue. I know that the generally recommended best practice when prefinishing is to tape off any surfaces that will later be receiving glue. However, I'm building a project that is going to have basically a grid of cross lap joints, and taping off all of those surfaces sounds really annoying. If I use epoxy as my glue instead of yellow wood glue, could I get away with not taping off the glue surfaces? The joints I am making should be pretty strong, so the glue is really just there to stop things from shifting. Thanks! Matthew
2) I'm curious what you do when your local lumber store doesn't have what you want or need? We have one hardwood dealer in town, and the next nearest supplier is 3-4 hrs away (each way). The local place has a lot of the most common stuff, but every once in a while I hit a wall when looking for something they don't carry. I've heard of people ordering lumber either over the phone or online and having it shipped to them. I think Guy has mentioned calling his local store and having them deliver it to his door; I don't know if this would be a similar process, or something else entirely. Thanks, Monte
Sean
1) Hi Guys,
Thank you for all the hard work you put into the podcast. It is extremely educational and very helpful.
I am sure you discussed it in some form previously, but I wanted to ask if each of you can describe the equipment you use for spraying, does it handle different type of finishes (i.e. paint, poly, etc.) and would you buy the same equipment again or switch to a different one? Thank you again. Omer
Huy
1) Hi Guys, (and Guy),
I wrote you a few weeks back about a glue up question. The advice that you gave was spot on. Thank You for clearing up the questions that I had on that topic. Once again, YOU GUYS ROCK!
And Guy, you mentioned to place my Cherry boards outside in the sun for a day to darken them up, WOW did that do the trick! It is tips like that, that really make you guys stand out compared to other podcasts.
I am on to another project now, and that is building my grand kids toy dump trucks for Christmas.
Here I have another glue up question. A neighbor gave me a quart of Titebond Cold Press for Veneer glue. I was gonna try and use this like regular wood glue. I do not think this would cause any issues but I thought I would run it past all of you to see if I am missing anything. Is there an issue with using Veneer glue like this? Cory
2) Hi guys! Awesome podcasts, as always, and thank you for answering some of my previous questions. I really appreciate the feedback that you have been able to provide. My question today is about mobility versus stability. I do the majority of my woodworking out of one half of a two car garage and I often switch between power tool focused projects and hand tool projects depending on the project. My project list, both for clients and for my wife and myself, is always changing so it seems that my work flow and my shop setup changes on a regular basis. My bench and assembly table are built on locking casters making them easily mobile, but not stable enough for serious hand tool work. How do you balance stability with mobility? Also, how do you incorporate adequate dust collection with the power tools when they are mobile? I have a 3 1/2 HP Harbor Freight dust collector with 4" hose, but I have not yet installed any fixed piping in my shop, I'm currently moving it from machine to machine. Would you recommend putting it in a corner and running pipes along the ceiling to drop down to the machines? Thank you guys, Joshua The Blackdog Woodworks
Thursday Nov 03, 2022
Thursday Nov 03, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) Dear Guy / Huy / Sean - First off, thank you for the podcast you produce. It is the only podcast I listen to that I have to pull over in the car to take notes on the way to work. I wish I lived closer to any of you to interact with you on a personal level instead of only podcasts. Anyway...my question has to do with needing advice on what to do with a crazy looking piece of burl. I have been helping my parents move out of their lifelong home and have "inherited" lots of wood from my Dad. The most interesting wood is a wild piece of knobby burl (not sure the species). I'm struggling with what to do with it though. It's roughly 6" per side but has many 'branches'. I can send a pic if needed but wasn't sure how on the website. I have essentially all the needed woodworking equipment including a mini-lathe but cannot figure out what to do with such a weird piece. I would love to make something unique but cannot figure out what to make out of this crazy wood. I would appreciate any creative advice you can give. P.S. - Guy - the desk you built was jaw dropping and I saved several pics. That desk is the inspiration for my someday desk. I wish I lived in Indiana to work alongside you as it seems like you have a dream job. Huy - similar story to you as well. As an engineer, I tried to get on with NASA but that path is not for me it appears. Sean - I'm not sure what your personal life is like as you seem somewhat reserved but I feel like we have parallel lives! We would make good neighbors / friends I think. Thank you all for that you guys do. Keep the saw dust flying! Cheers, Greg
2) Hi Gents,
Thanks for the great podcast and constantly sharing your knowledge, war stories and humor every 2 weeks. It's always a good day when the Woodshop Life shows up in my podcast feed.
That's enough about how great you all are - onto my question.
For the 8+ years I've been wood working I've constantly heard that you should lightly spray your project with water to raise the grain and sand back before applying finish. So my question is what's the advantage of using water to raise the grain? Why not apply a light coat of Shellac or poly to raise the grain and then sand back and you're a coat of finish further on? Is there any advantage to using water?
Thanks again for everything you do.
Regards, John McGrath, Houston, TX
3) Hey Guys, love listening to your podcast while in the shop. As an Asian American who does woodworking, really appreciate seeing, and hearing, from other Asian Americans like Huy who share the same interest in this space. My question for you guys: I am making a round dining table. The top will be glued up walnut planks with a 51 inch diameter. The base will be pedestal style base with a diameter of around 22 inches. It will be constructed out of bent plywood (using kerf relief cuts and veneering the outside with walnut) and hollow inside except for some cross braces for rigidity. I plan on sealing the bottom with either (1) a 22 inch diameter plywood( or solid wood) base to cover the bottom and add weights inside the base to make sure the top doesn't tip over or (2) a larger than 22" diameter base. My questions is if I do the first option, is there a calculation as to minimum weight is needed to make sure the solid walnut top of 51" won't tip over?
Or if I do option 2, how large of a bottom base to do I need to prevent tip over? Is there a calculation for that? I think option 1 is a cleaner and preferred look, but I don't want to risk tipping over and crushing a child or a toe.
Thanks in advance and look forward to listening to the next podcast. Dennis
Huy
1) Almost done with the nightstands I have been working on and asking questions about the past month. Made from two hand sawn walnut logs I salvaged etc. Out of logs. Drawer front is 1/2" too narrow side to side. Solution is to put a 1/4" edge band on the drawers. Problem solved. But I decided to make it complicated. Want to do 1/2" edge band on the top as well. Should I just glue this on or attempt to make the smallest breadboard ends ever? By my math I would have 1/2" strips- 1/8" shoulder 1/8" peg 1/8" tenon past that and 1/8" on the strip covering it up. Is this necessary, feel like I am making dollhouse furniture here after the shed and 10' long bookshelves I just finished. Edge banding would run across the grain, 14" x 12.5" x .625" (5/8) top, ripped and glued as per my question a month ago, picture below for reference. Tom
2)
Thanks for the amazing podcast. You fellas have answered my questions and were very helpful! I”m having trouble centering my hollow chisel mortiser. I used the “X” method. Mark a horizontal line and then two opposing 45’s to get center. I have used a marking gauge, and kept adjusting till it lands on the same mark. I then adjust my x and y axis table to hit center, then it’s not center.
Any thoughts would be great! Thanks so much!
Scott Bonin
Thursday Oct 20, 2022
Thursday Oct 20, 2022
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Sean
1) Wanted to start off by saying how much I enjoy listening to all yall! Been learning quite a bit from the 3 of you. My question seems fairly simple but I know it can turn into a can of worms depending on who you ask. Anyways, considering the woods: Walnut, Red Oak, White Oak, Paduk, and other species similar to those listed. What would be each your top 3 finishes and why? Finished look that I'm not after is shiny or "plastic" looking. I feel it looks really tacky. I'm more towards flat and matte.
Thanks for everything yall do!
2) Hello everyone, Wondering what materials you prefer using when building boxes? I see many people using BB ply but wondering if you prefer using solid wood over the ply (soft maple, poplar?). Thanks, Paul at Twin Lake Woodshop
Guy
1) I am a hobbyist woodworker and constantly battling kids' clutter and vehicles in my shop. All my tools are mobile but, one challenge that I come across is finding level ground to set up my tools on. My garage has a floor has a drain in the center of it and the floors all slope inward accordingly making it difficult to set up level and flat, ie: Dewalt Contractor saw and outfeed table. Any suggestions that you may have other than re-pouring the floor or building it up would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, and keep up the great work. Mike from Calgary Alberta Canada.
2) Just recently started listening to your podcast. I was hoping you guys could discuss a topic I am wrestling with called glue creep.
Last year I completed 2 table top projects using Titebond 2. 1 project I used 8/4 white oak and the other was 8/4 hard maple (both dried ~14-17% MC in SE Indiana). At the time of project completion, both tables were sanded smooth and finished (1 with a stain and water based poly, the other with briwax). However, after a year I can feel the glue seam of both tables with my fingernail which I am learning is a condition called glue creep.
I am not sure if it is because the wood is shrinking and the glue isnt, or if the glue is expanding due to joint stress? The joints seemed rather tight from the jointer and I used dowel rods (triton dowel joint tool) to align them. Curious if its the glue or joint stress from either not tight joint faces or dowel rods that are not aligned perfectly causing joint stress. I do find that some dowels are not perfectly aligned when I clamp because the tool has a ton of issues, I just recently bought a domino jointer XL so I hope this helps with alignment.
I would like to know how to avoid this as it poses a threat to the quality of my project. Thank you ! Ty
Huy
1) I've had the bad fortune of being burned by a few clients, the common denominator in these experiences being that I either didn't ask the right questions or set the right expectations in the intake stage of the process.
For instance, one client refused to pay the balance he owed on a Murphy bed because it took too long to finish. The reason it took so long, however, was that the bed I built for him was too big to fit up his staircase, so I had to build a second that could be assembled on site. On other occasions, I've had clients request a custom quote or design, then balk at the price and vanish on me, leaving me out several hours of work designing a piece I no longer have any intention of building.
I'd love to hear what your intake process is from the moment you receive a request to when you start building so you can anticipate and sidestep potential issues such as these. I modify my intake questionnaire each time I have one of these experiences (e.g., charging a design fee, asking whether there's a clear path to the landing site, etc.), but I worry there's icebergs I don't see and would love to benefit from more knowledgeable peers. Thanks again, Patrick Bock PDB Creations
2) I recently finished a console table and had some questions about the joinery. The table and legs were 2-3/4” thick and 15” wide solid poplar. For the joinery I planned on using dowels and my mastercraft drill guide. My first plan was to use 3 each leg 1-3/8” diameter dowels but when I practiced the drilling with the guide I could not get repeatable 90deg holes. I ended up using a simple guide and drilling 1/2” dowels but still had some small issues with alignment so on the second leg I made a template and things went much smoother. Anyways I was wondering what you all would do without having a high end drill guide, drill press, or domino. The legs were to big for me to feel comfortable making a Traditional tenon on my contractor saw so that’s why I went with the dowels. Anyways the table turned out great just trying to think of new ideas for next time.
Thanks in advance. Big fan of the show. Adam
Thursday Oct 06, 2022
Thursday Oct 06, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) Hi fellas. I found your podcast a few months ago and I'm working my way from the start to get all caught up, so please forgive me if you've addressed this question before.
For the last few years, I've been mostly focused on turning, but my wife would really like a new bed frame and has asked me to design and build one similar to one from a local wood furniture shop. I'm planning to make it out of solid cherry. I hear a lot of talk about wood movement, and particularly how it is problematic in cross grain situations. I was planning on using the domino to attach the horizontal pieces of the headboard and footboard to the posts, but that creates a cross grain situation. Is that a mistake? Any tips for making that joint and accounting for movement?
Thanks for the great content. For someone who hasn't made furniture in quite some time, it helps to give me reminders of all of the things I've forgotten. - Firelight Woodworks
2) Hello, thank y’all for the awesome podcast. I am looking at moving from south texas to mid-Tennessee and I worried about the change in humidity. I have many projects on the agenda that I can either push to completion or wait until after the big move. It is extremely humid here in Texas and I have already purchased all my raw materials. So I will have to move all the materials to my new shop (space undetermined at the moment) or risk the humidity shift in the completed furniture. Joshua
Guy
1) Hello guys, always love the show and I tried out the Guy’s tip of the flat cart at Lowes to haul plywood. Not easy still but easier for sure, I had never thought of it! That got you a new Patreon Subscriber and glad to support you.
My latest challenge in the shop has been the quality of cut from my bandsaw. Please don’t laugh. I’m working with a 14” Delta clone from overseas that I bought in about 1986. It has always needed a concrete block on the base to keep it from waddling out of the shop on it’s mobile base when it’s running so I would never call this precision balanced machinery. I do have the guides and blade tension well dialed in, or as much as you can dial in a 35 year cheap bandsaw. I have replaced the tires and the blade I’m currently using is good quality and sharp. Motor is 1HP 120V that have never seem to have bogged down. I typically use 4 or 6 TPI ¼” blades because I’m just too lazy to swap blades.
The saw tracks well but the cut has never been smooth. It’s not rough like a 10 tooth circular saw blade would be on particle board it’s more like a washboard surface with consistently spaced ridges on all the surfaces. This happens with any kind of wood, every feed rate I can try and It happens when I’m cross cutting or ripping. I have made it work over the years with sanding it all out but I wanted to bounce it off you guys to see if you’ve ever experienced that and been able to pin point it’s cause. Vibration is present in the saw but I always figured I got what I paid for and I can’t remember if the saw made that kind of cut when it was new.
I am studying reviews to buy a new bandsaw but I wanted to pass this one down to a beginning woodworker and would love for it to be cutting smoother.
Thoughts? Thanks Bob
2) G'day fellas,
I found your podcast a couple of weeks ago, and I have since binge-listened to every episode (I operate mining machinery in 12 hr shifts, so I have a LOT of listening time).
I'm a motorcycle enthusiast, currently fitting out a new workshop in my spare time. I decided to fit out the workshop myself, and in the process of researching that, I have become obsessed with woodworking.
I'm in the position of having a large, new space to develop as I see fit. It consists of 55m² (about 700 square feet) in total, with a 1200mm high retaining wall along one wall (I have excavated an 2.4m (8ft) high space under the house, and had to leave a metre along one wall for the stability of the foundations), resulting in a floor space of 45m², and a 10m² "shelf" along one side.
Up until listening to your show, I intended to use the space on top of the retaining wall to build workbenches, in order to make the space usable. However, you all seem to value mobility of your workspaces, so I am now considering my options, and think that I could be better off using the majority of the space on top of the retaining wall for storage, with a mix of cabinets and shelving, with a relatively small space for a workbench along that wall, and keep the rest of my bench space mobile.
What do you blokes think? If you had this much space, would you continue to value mobility of workstations, or create more permanent areas? What other tips for setting up a space like this can you give me, keeping in mind that sawdust is the natural enemy of shiny bikes?
Keep up the great content, and thanks for all keeping me awake through the long night shifts!
Jim
Huy
1) Hi Fellas, love the podcast. The value and knowledge us woodworkers get from your content is unmatched. Great mix of personalities and experience. I have worked hard over the last five years to renovate my shop and acquire tools. I have a small space (260sqft) but fully dedicated. Insulated wires everywhere with multiple 240 circuits. I have midrange tools, 6” jointer, 13” planer, table saw, router table, bandsaw, drill press, 14” radial arm saw(yet to rebuild but plan for a joint miter armsaw station. A friend of mine is getting into woodworking and just bought a house that came with a fully loaded cabinet shop. 1600sqft fully loaded. This shop is 5 minutes from me. With access to this, what would you change to your workflow and small shop? I do really like having a full shop so I can work at night when kids are asleep.
Second question, got a pile of zebra wood from an estate sale, I have a 8/4 12” wide 4’ long piece. What would you do with it? Robert
2) Got another one for ya. I know you all have talked extensively about finishing on multiple different occasions but I have a question regarding top coats after painting and I don’t recall that officially being discussed.
I made my son a lofted bed during the pandemic. Really basic construction grade lumber piece ( go easy on me Guy). At the time I stained it with a dark oil based gel stain and followed up with an oil based poly top coat. I am now repurposing the bed for his younger sister. I’ve disassembled it and plan on giving everything a good sand because frankly I didn’t do a good enough job with that the first time around. I’m planning on painting the bed white so right now I’m thinking I’ll need to prime it and seal it before using a basic latex paint and then finish it off with a water based poly. Thoughts? My guess is y’all aren’t painting very many pieces, but when you do what kind of top coat do you use, if any?
Thanks again.Jonathan
Thursday Sep 22, 2022
Thursday Sep 22, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) I’ve found some really nice walnut burl veneer that I would like to use on the tambours. I plan on veneering these on to solid walnut in the hopes of both accounting for wood movement in the veneer, and not seeing an ugly MDF substrate when opening the doors. Am I going overboard by using solid walnut for the backing substrate, or is there a way to hide the edges of the MDF as to not see them when moving the doors? And would using MDF as a substrate cause issue with the veneer moving over time? I plan on using the heat lock veneer glue to adhere the veneers to the substrate.
2) Hello Sean, Guy, and Huy. You guys always make one of the best podcasts and i love hearing your different outlooks on topics. My question today is about design and encouraging creativity. Obviously, this will be different depending on whether or not there is a client involved, but how do you decide on a direction for the design of a piece of furniture? How do you begin, with the design or the materials? Have you ever looked at a piece (or stack) of lumber and designed your project to highlight something special about it? On the other hand, have you ever designed a piece, and then had to find the perfect piece of lumber to make it with?
Thank you, Joshua from The Blackdog Studios (finding beauty in former trees)
Huy
1) So I've heard of some folks making the decision to not have a table saw in their shops. 2 main reasons cited being safety (IF ITS NOT A SAWSTOP YOU WILL DIE) and also space. Personally, I understand their position, but don't think I could do it. I simply like my saw too much. Would any of you consider it? Additionally, what operations does the table saw perform that you could not duplicate on/with another machine? I realize this is more of a thought experiment than question, but I thought I'd throw it out there.
thanks for the great show!
Mark
2) Hey all, thanks for the great show. I notice I have been getting diminished quality cuts from my full kerf glue line rip blade on my table saw. (That is- minor saw blade marks, occasional burning) in addition, I notice a touch of increased resistance as I begin to exit my rip cuts, and the blade seems to make contact again as the board moves past the blade.
To address these issues, I have adjusted the blade to about 2 thou to the left (I cut on the right of my blade generally) and adjusted my fence. I have an older , beat up Powermatic 64B contractor saw. I have noticed the plastic faces of the fence are a bit wavy (again, a few thousands, maybe about 10-15 thou variation throughout) but I have the extreme front and back of the fence perfectly aligned. My rips aren’t perfect when I cut from the left of the blade, but the resistance feels more consistent and predictable.
I am currently transitioning from hobbyist to full time and would like to solve this annoyance, as it occasionally affects my panel glue ups, and cutting board season is nearly upon us. I think for now, I will clamp on an MDF fence to see if that can help suck out the issue. If it is a fence face or alignment issue. Do you think I should maybe invest in a better fence, or should I consider replacing my glorious Powermatic saw with a SawStop Cabinet saw exclusively to spite Guy. I do have 220 in the shop now powering my heater and big Grizzly bandsaw, with amperage remaining for a 3hp cabinet. It would also be great to have a table saw with dust collection.
Side note:
Sorry for the length, y’all always ask for more details. And a replacement cabinet saw wouldn’t have to be a SawStop, but I think it may be good insurance when I can afford to hire an employee. That said, this would be an upgrade maybe 3-8 months down the line if I’m making consistent money. Longer if I can get the Powermatic figured out. I do a range of things. From small CNC projects, shelves, cutting boards, and plan to move onto selling furniture.
Dillon
Guy
1) Got one more question for ya. Shorter this time. I recently popped open a can of water based poly that I’ve had in storage for a while. The top 3/4 of the can was great but when I got to the bottom 1/4 it had turned in to a thick gel like substance. I did some quick googling and found a forum post where somebody suggested creating CO2 gas by mixing baking soda and vinegar in a jar and “pouring” that gas in to a partially used can of poly. The CO2 will displace the oxygen in the can and then you seal it up. This preserves the leftover poly as the reaction with oxygen is what hardens it. Obviously it’s too late for my can but have you all ever heard of this? If so have you ever done it? Thought it was pretty interesting regardless.
Thanks,
Jon
2) Hi guys love the podcast. My question is this , is it of absolute importance to have a dead flat assembly table to glue up your work square and keep it square?
I ask because I built a dresser and glued it up checked it for square and moved it to my floor which is steel plates, rechecked it for square and it was fine. Came beck the next morning and took it out of clamps and out of square it was had to disassemble and re glue very frustrating. So now looking to build an assembly table that is flat and level so I want to know how flat does it need to be.
Thanks keep up the good work.
Fred clarke
Thursday Sep 08, 2022
Thursday Sep 08, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) Thanks for the great podcast, I’ve learned a lot throughout the episodes. I’ve been a wood turner for twelve or so years but now getting into fine furniture making. A shout out to Sean as I’m a fellow Kentuckian (Louisville).
My question is: I’m working on two shaker side tables right now that are 20”x20”. As I think about the drawer construction, I’m at a bit of a crossroads with the bottom of the drawer. I could get high quality 1/4” plywood for the drawer bottom and put the plywood in grooves. However, I don’t like the thought of putting plywood into my tables if I were to be honest. I’m sure it would be structurally fine and I wouldn’t have to worry about wood movement. However I’d like for the bottom to be made of poplar like the sides and back of the drawer. How do I make a drawer bottom from 4/4 lumber? My planer says I can’t plane anything thinner than 1/2” and I don’t have a drum sander. What is the best way to thin a board to 1/4” or 3/8” for a drawer bottom? I’d rather not use hand tools as I have arthritis in my hands. Is this a job for a planer sled?
Thanks much, John
My shop tools:
Router & table
Lathe
Drill press
Bench
Shaper
6” Jointer
13” planer
14” Bandsaw ( Jet Euro style)
Small Saw Stop (still alive!)
2) Hey guys! As always, I love the podcast, appreciate your individual takes on questions, and hearing about what's going on in your shops, except for Guy, he's too busy working to have anything going on in his own shop.
My question is about learning from your mistakes. Throughout your woodworking adventures, I'm sure you have all had that project that did not come out the way you had planned or expected. I recently found some very old woodworking projects that I made somewhere in the late 1990's. Instead of throwing them out, I put them in my shop to remind me of two things. Where I've come from, and what not to do. Do you guys have anything like this in your shops? What do you use to remind you to do better?
Thanks
Joshua from The Blackdog Woodworks
3) Hi guys, Thanks for the great, inspiring and sometimes intimidating podcast, because you guys are so good. I have a couple of questions. I have been asked to build a dining room table for my daughter. My first question is about design. The table will likely be a trestle style, made of walnut, a wood I have never worked before. The table will be about 6 feet long by 40" wide to fit into the space available. Is there a reason to glue the top along the long edge or along the short edge, or is this strictly or primarily an aesthetic decision? It seems like I would be likely to get a better edge to joint a 40" edge rather than a 60" edge. Second question if I can be presumptious, how do you keep focused on completing a project? It is always exciting to start a new project, but then as the time it takes stretches out, the endless sanding continues, the fear of applying a decent finish, the excitement diminishes and I get to the point I just want to get it finished. Thanks again for the great information and terrific format.
Scott
Sean
1) Hello sirs. Thank you for providing the best woodworking podcast bar none! I am building a couple of side tables for my living room to go on either end of my couch. I am using 8/4 walnut slabs for the table tops. I'm wondering what kind of finish you would recommend for these slabs? Bear in mind that I'm assuming my wife and children are not going to be too keen to reach for a coaster every time they want to put a glass of water down. I prefer more of a matte finish, so don't really want to use epoxy or anything that's going to look like a layer of glass is sitting on top of the slab. So what products
do you suggest to achieve maximum water protection without compromising a matte look? And please include any specific application techniques, ie: number of coats, levels of sanding, etc. Many thanks. Keep up the amazing podcast!
2) Good evening, I'm Mason with blairswoodshop. Before I ask my question I just want to mention I love the podcast! It's awesome for my morning commute i think I'm about 80 episodes compete and look forward to more. Thank you guys for all the hard work on the podcast! Just had a question for Sean. I see he has the performax 16-32, I just acquired a same style Jet 16-32. My question is if you have ever had issues with the conveyor belt tracking? I can't seem for the life of me to get it to track straight. No matter what I do it always tracks to the right, it has already took a chunk out of my brand new maveric abrasives conveyor belt. I know I'm not the only one with this issue, but no one seems to really have a fix. The only thing I've seen that might work is to buy a rubber conveyor belt which is upwards of 125$ plus shipping. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
3) Good afternoon, good evening and good night gentlemen. Wanted to hear your preferred method of table top attachment to a base. (Z clips, figure 8s or oversized holes or any other method you can speak on that you prefer)
Paul