Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking
Episodes
Friday Sep 08, 2023
Friday Sep 08, 2023
Brians Questions:
Hi guys, thanks for such a great podcast. You recently got me through the journey back from a road trip to Montreal, although when my wife heard you guys, she was like, "What the -hell-are you listening to?!" But then she fell asleep so we had no problem (don't worry, she wasn't driving at the time).
My question is about evening out the sapwood and heartwood colour in walnut, so you can maximise the yield from boards and slabs. Do you have a particular process and/or product you'd recommend here? If your solution is to simply cut it off, it seems a shame to waste all that wood... have you found any good uses for it? Phil Evans
Hi - I am building a seating bench out of figured ash. I'd like to give it a gentle brown color and really accentuate the curly figure in the wood. I'm worried that stain won't do much to bring out the beauty in it; should i use dye instead? What steps should I go through to highlight the figure? I don't have a spray solution, so whatever finish will need to be wipe on or brush on. I prefer to avoid rattle cans of finish too, for what that's worth. Mark
Guys Questions:
I recently had the client that all woodworkers dream of. Came to me literally saying money didnt matter and they wanted a high quality coffee table. I loaded it with design features and in the end it became my highest priced commission to date at over $12k for this 42" square coffee table. I say that mainly to encourage others that there's still people who will pay for quality. Anyway my question is that one of the design ideas i pitched this customer was to do a herringbone pattern on the sides of the table using shop sawn veneer. This will be my first time ever making veneer and doing anything with it. What tips can you give me? I have a VERY high quality bandsaw, the Laguna LT18 equipped with a Resawking blade. I do not have a drum sander. I plan to now get a Vacupress 300 for the task. What else should I know about veneering a herringbone pattern? AZ Custom Furniture Bilder
Hi Guys, thanks for the helpful podcast. I’ve been building furniture for a few years now and as a newish woodworker I have tried many different finishes in the pursuit of finding the one and only one. My question is, do you keep a log of which pieces of furniture have which finish so that you can see how they age and for when/if repairs or refinishes are needed? Thanks, Patty
Huy's Questions:
Thanks for the podcast, guys!
My question: I'm building a sideboard for utilitarian storage when entering from the garage.
It is mostly cherry, will have a cherry top and is about 22" deep by 60" wide and 30" tall.
I'm planning to use 8/4 cherry for the top, with a resulting thickness of whatever results from jointing and planing the boards to be edge glued for the top. Would there be any advantage in building the top from 4/4 boards face glued to make up the 8/4 thickness? I will be chamfering the bottom of the top so that any glue line would not be visible.
Thanks so much,
Bob Clark
Hi fellas,
I first want to say thank you for developing and producing this podcast and sharing your experience with the rest of mere mortals of woodworking. I am a nights and weekend hobbyist woodworker, making small projects for friends and family or DIY projects around the house. I am fortunate to have a modest collection of tools and enjoy trying new things and learning how to up my game. My question is really more about the process of using steel wool and vinegar to ebonize some red oak I'm making into a small case with a couple of drawers. The way I understand the process is that the combination of the steel wool and vinegar ultimately reacts with the tannins in the red oak, turning it darker (I'm hoping black). I've also recently discovered Original Tried and True finish (polymerized linseed oil and beeswax) and really like the results I've got on a few projects I've used it on. Would ebonizing the red oak change how a finish like Tried and True works? Is there a better finish in your opinion? How would each of you finish this if black was the end result, and FYI I don't have spraying equipment. Thanks again for all you do for the woodworking community!
-Trevor
Friday Aug 25, 2023
Friday Aug 25, 2023
Brians Questions:
Gentlemen,
Thank you so much for this podcast. I very much look forward to each episode. I primarily work with hand tools making traditional furniture. One of the few machines I own is a PowerMatic 15” bandsaw. Guy’s positive review of it sealed my decision and I’m very happy with it. Fantastic bandsaw. I mostly use it for long straight cuts and keep the Laguna 3/4” carbide tipped blade in it. On the occasions I need to make curve cuts I hate to change out blades. Call me lazy. I’d like to get another tool for this other than doing it by hand. It could be a smaller band saw with a thin blade, the DeWalt DW788 scroll saw, or something else. Mostly cuttin 4 quarter stock but on occasion eight quarter stock. What would you get and why? I also own a Makita corded jigsaw. Many thanks and keep up the great work.
Sincerely
Joe Leonetti.
Having two friends recently experience serious injuries while using their table saw, I am continuing to do more ripping using my bandsaw for safety sake. (I, like my two injured friends are in our 70’s- not as quick in our reactions, as good in our judgements or dexterous as when younger.) I’m fortunate to have two bandsaws, one of which I keep a 1/2” blade on for the purpose of resawing and ripping, so it works out quite well. The issue is the rough edge left by the bandsaw vs the smooth “gluable” edge that the table saw produces. What’s the best way to address this? I’ve heard mention of using a jointer after ripping - does this not introduce uncertainty as to the final width of the piece just ripped? For example, if I wanted a piece 10” wide and ripped it to 10 1/16”, I’d have to have my jointer set to remove exactly 1/16 which even if I accomplish that setting, may be hard to achieve and also get a perfect 90 degree edge. As an aside- I’m still considering selling my Powermatic and getting a Sawstop in the interest of increased safety. While some people might scoff at that idea, I don’t care-to each his own. Both of my two friends injuries were ugly, debilitating and expensive. Thanks for the best and most informative woodworking podcast! Tim Deal
Guys Questions:
Hello Huy and Guy, and welcome to the show Brian. My question today is about quoting pricing for inconvenience. What I mean by that is this: if a client comes to you with a request that you aren't really excited about does that affect how much you quote? Do you ever give them a high quote in the holes that they say no, but high enough that if they still say yes, it offsets any frustration you expect to have while building?
Thanks, and I'm still waiting for Brian's social media... and for Guy to say specificity again.
Joshua.
Huy's Questions:
Great podcast guys. I Really appreciate how you guys answer questions based on your individual experiences. I like hearing 3 or 4 different ways to perform a task using a variety of tools. My question: my current home has 1/2” particle drawer boxes and I’m replacing them. What would you recommend for drawer box construction concerning material, thickness, drawer bottom thickness, and finish. Thanks.
-Eric Brown
Greetings Gentlemen,
Thank you for continuing your podcast into 2023. It’s very informative, but in a relaxed and casual format. Also; a welcome to Brian. Sean was a long time co-host and will be missed but Brian has slipped into his slot with ease and is doing great.
My question today is about planing. I’m making a 4x6 ft table top out of true 1-1/8 inch thick x 6 inch wide, rough cut white oak. When dressing down the wood, I plan on jointing one surface then planing the other surface parallel. Finished thickness I think will be between ¾ and 7/8. Here is the question. How important is it to take equal amounts off of each side? Can I just joint one surface and plane the opposite down to my finished thickness or do I have to try to take an equal amount off of both sides. If it matters, the lumber is kiln dried down to 7%.
Terry W.
Friday Aug 11, 2023
Friday Aug 11, 2023
Brian's Questions:
I've recently walled off the third bay of my three car garage to give me a smaller space to heat and a wall to work with. I have started thinking about my ~270 sqft shop in three dimensions trimming all the fat and maximizing my functionality.What would you guys do with a nice healthy 11ft ceiling height considering I want pretty much my entire shop to exist is this space. What type of ideas would you have for multi functioning furniture? What would you put on the walls? Everything that can be is already on wheels. I've got most every major tool you guys do. Just curious on your take. How would you cram yourselves into this little space or do you already?
Thanks for continuing the podcast. -Jim G.
I am building an outdoor bench using steel legs and a currently rough cedar top. I plan on sanding the cedar smooth and finishing it. What would be the best grit to sand to, and what finish should I apply? It will get all-day full sunlight.
Jason H.
Guy's Questions:
Hi: As I have said before, this is the best woodworker podcast on the planet! I enjoy so much the focus on woodworkers questions. Your personalities shines through as well as your intellect and your skills as a woodworker. Thanks so much.
My question stems from a recent project I started. I tried to be more exacting. I designed the project on gridded paper, figured out each exact dimension and then started to calculate the wood requirements. I figured out the sheet goods by figuring out the rough layout of the parts on a scale grid diagram. Then I calculated the board feet of each of the solid wood parts using a board feet calculator app a selecting 10% for waste option. I then added them up and got ready to buy the necessary wood.
In the past I just winged it. I'd have a rough drawing on scrap paper and a guess at the wood requirements which often meant follow-up trips to the store. Projects often had a few rework, redesign elements on the fly and some issues that hopefully I could only see, hence the change to more exacting.
I have a few questions. How exact are you with your designs? Is this the process you go through before purchasing wood? Is there another way? Do you use any apps like:"BoardFeetEasy" or "SmartCut"? Do you use any other woodworking apps? If so which ones? Is 10% a good waste figure? Do you adjust the waste figure based on any criteria? What are the criteria?
Thanks again for you're time, focus and insite into the craft of woodworking.
Regards,Joe James
Hi, thanks for all the great work on this podcast. Yours is the only one that actually I even have a dedicated podcast app set up for, so that you guys are only a couple taps away for my sausage fingers whenever I have a free moment and want to learn something. Anyway, my question is about using a dryer plug for 220V machines. I'm planning a couple new tools for my basement shop, and whilst my first choice is to add a dedicated 220 line, I'd rather space things out financially if I can. One option seems potentially to use the dryer electrical socket until I have the cash flow to run dedicated electrics. I'm seeing mixed things in my research and wondering if you have any real world experience on using dryer plugs for tools with an adapter/extension, specifically if it's a hazard and the pros/cons? In my case the tools would be a Hammer A326 and Sawstop PCS 3HP. Thanks for any advice you can offer and keep up the great work. Phil Evans
Huy's Questions:
Hi guys, love the podcast! Thanks for all you do! I’m designing my first piece of larger furniture, an entry way table. I am planning 3 drawers across the top, and below that a cabinet in the center and open shelves to either side. I’m wondering how you guys decide on proportions for a build like this. Supposedly the 1.618 is some kind of magic formula that makes everything perfect, but how do you use it, or do you even bother? What if the piece has to fit a certain space, do you take that into account? Help me woodshop life, you’re my only hope! Matt
Hello all, how about another shop storage question? I’ve been primarily a power tool user for many years, but have started building a hand tool collection over the last 2 or 3 years. Im finding the “hybrid” approach more to my liking and feel it’s certainly improved the quality of my projects with the ability to fine tune fit and finish. Now being the proud owner of quality chisels, a few hand planes, scrapers and so on, most of the tools are in a tool box drawer.
I want to get these commonly used items out of the drawer and in reach, but I find myself starting to plan and build tool holders or storage solutions only to scrap it and move onto something else because I get lost in how simple or complex to make it.
I need to just shut up and do it, I know this. In your opinions, when you need a storage solution, do you just make whats basic and functional and after some use fine tune or remake it when needed? Or, do you spend time laying everything out and aiming for a one and done build?
-Mike
Friday Jul 28, 2023
Friday Jul 28, 2023
Brian's Questions:
Hey Fellas,
I’m in the market for a new table saw. I am coming from a 2hp Grizzly hybrid saw with a broken part I cannot find a replacement for. I’m debating between a 3hp Powermatic or Sawstop. Either of these will be a major upgrade from what I have but do you have opinions either way? The Sawstop technology is great and I understand accidents can happen but I tend to think if your hands are that close to the blade you’ve got bigger problems. That said, the Sawstop is up to $1,000 cheaper than the powermatic depending which add-ons you choose. Do you have any thoughts or are there other brands I’m missing and should look into?
Chris
Instagram: @custom_by_chris
Hi guys! I am a hobbyist/turning professional woodworker based in Portland, Oregon. I have really enjoyed listening to your podcast and thought I would quickly ask your opinion on rectangular dominos.
I have been creating shop-made dominos to save money. Creating them is a pain in the butt! Trying to nail metric round-overs with imperial bits at that level of precision is pretty involved. It usually takes a bit of time and wasted material to set the router table up correctly in order to batch a bunch out. Then running a glue groove on everything is another step that takes time. A thought came to me about creating square edged, rectangular tenons that aren't hitting the radii of the domino mortise. My thought is that the few millimeters of void wouldn't really affect the strength of the joint and the voids themselves would act as a hydrolock prevention by nature. Assuming these aren't used for through style tenons, do you see any issues using rectangular stock? Thanks for doing the podcast and I look forward to future episodes!
Sal Al-Sudairy
sfapdx@gmail.com
@oregon_woodworks Instagram
Guy's Questions:
Hey Guy’s
I know finishing gets hit often but this is perhaps a different spin. My basement garage is my workshop so odor and chemical safety is a concern.
I’m mostly done with my plywood/poplar painted dresser (thanks for the tips by the way, screwing and glueing without fancy jointery made assembly a breeze Guy).
That being said what is a good low odor option for finishing a paint grade project that’s being painted white? Yellowing and tannin bleed are therefore both concerns.
I’ve heard Ya’ll talk about conversion varnishes but also heard complaints about odor. Would BIN water based primer under enamel paint be best? Should I go the oil based primer/paint route for durability?
I have recently gotten a paint sprayer but am open to rolling if that’s preferable. I’ll attach my budget sprayer below for context.
Thanks so much, this is by far the best woodworking podcast.
-Dave
Hello Huy, Guy, and Brian! You gentlemen, as well as Sean, have been a huge help and inspiration to my woodworking journey. Keep the great content coming!
I recently picked up an older Bosch 1615 evs plunge router mounted to an old tabletop with an Incra Intelli fence. While I can find manuals online for both of these discontinued items, I'd like to get your input on how to best set up an older router with this fence. Since this particular router is in its own molded housing, I don't think a router lift is an option. What do you all recommend for setting this router up in a new table? I intend to likely build a stand-alone router table with a top made with melamine left over from a recent project, but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks, -Kurt
Huy's Questions:
Hi everyone,
Thank you for a great show. I've listened through the entire catalog twice, learning a lot.
In Episode #115 (and other episodes) you mention UV light turning walnut orange. I recently built a large dining room table out of walnut. I did not dye the table, even though I knew color change was possible. I have never used dye and the walnut was so stunning, I was afraid I would mess it up.
If my table turns orange, can it be sanded off? How deep does the UV "damage" go into the wood?
If I was to dye the walnut, could you please remind us what color dye you have used that works on walnut? How you have applied it to walnut, and when in the finishing process?
hanks again for a great show and a great woodworking education.
Kevin
Hello Gentleman,
Love the podcast. Thanks for all your hard work.
I am considering tackling a Entertainment unit for my bonus room; however I am struggling with material choice. The cabinet finish will be painted, do you suggest plywood or MDF? I plan on building some drawers with plywood boxes and MDF faces but I am concerned about the durability of the MDF when installing hinges if I use it for the carcass construction.
The overall length of this build is 16" long by 8' tall with drawers along the bottom open shelving on either side of that with the TV in the middle. Normally I am not so indecisive ; however this is such a large project and with the high cost of materials I want to start off on the right foot. Any guidance would be appreciated.
- Mike
Friday Jul 14, 2023
Friday Jul 14, 2023
Brians Questions:
Every time I make a jig I struggle to get the fence square. How do I do this properly. Is this a common problem amongst new woodworkers? Love the show guys keep it up!
Johnny
This is Ben and I’m 8 years old. I would like to make a pocket knife with my dad. What suggestions do you have for making one?
Ben and Nathan
Guys Questions:
I recently found your podcast and have been binging it while in the shop. Guy, I was quite surprised to learn about your passion for 3D printing and various tinkering in his shop. I share the same passion for tinkering that extends beyond woodworking. In my shop I get almost as much satisfaction in discovering/creating a jig or tool to complete the job as I do in the actual finished product. My biggest “tool” build has been the ‘Mostly Printed CNC machine’, which is good enough for cutting various templates or basic v-carves. I can’t justify the price tag for an off the shelf machine to do that work when this one is good enough for me, at least for now. But I don’t think I could ever make something like a dowelmax, when I can buy a quality tool for relatively cheap. Apologies if this has been asked before. My question is about shop built tools and jigs vs. store bought. From your perspectives, with quality and cost in mind, what tools should be purchased off the shelf and what tools can be or maybe should be shop made? (Crosscut sleds, planer jointing sled, flattening jigs, clamping jigs, mobile bases, router tables…the list goes on and on). For reference I’m very much a hobbyist making stuff for the house or family and friends, while selling a piece here and there. So I do not work under any form of deadlines other than those imposed by my wife. Additionally, this is my creative outlet, I’m a gear design engineer the other 40 hours, this is my opportunity to make what I want to make. Keep up the great work!
Caleb Gurd Gears & Grain Woodcraft
Hey guys. You have been kind enough to answer a few of my questions in the past so thought I would throw a couple more your way. I have two questions which fall into the category of finishing. Number one - I'll be building a coffee table out of walnut which is a mix of heartwood and sapwood. I would like to find a way to blend the color of the mixed wood together. If I use a walnut dye on the entire project will the color of the heartwood and sapwood blend together and provide a uniform looking finish? If dying the wood is the solution can you recommend a brand of dye? Should the dye be oil or water based given that I'll likely use an oil based clear coat. I have never used dye in the past so any tips will be helpful. Answered - Second question. Our cherry wood kitchen table, which measures 36"W x 48"L, needs refinishing. I believe the original finish is an oil based pre-catalyzed lacquer. I'll be refinishing just the table top which has several scratches and shallow dents measuring up to 1/16" deep. The legs are painted black so no need to match the color of the top with the legs. Can you recommend a method for removing the original finish? I don't own or have access to a drum sander. Also, can you recommend a durable oil-based finish for refinishing the table top? Is spraying the preferred method for such a large surface area? Or, will a wipe-on poly do the job? Thanks again for all your help and expertise.
Jack Francis Geneva, IL
Huys Questions:
Hello fellas. Thanks for the enjoyable podcast, I've been listening for months but finally asking a question. Where do you look for inspiration when it comes to design for furniture pieces? Any particular magazines or books you like to reference when coming up with designs. Not necessarily looking for how to's , but more on design and style. Thanks again!
A. Torres
Kind sirs- Wonderful job etc. and I hope this finds you well. I posit this question knowing full well that I "overthink things" (according to Guy), even though I am "really intelligent" and have "design style" (according to Huy, your Tom Fan Club membership package is in the mail, including a life-size Tom cutout, suitable for posing with for social media photos.) I need a second desk for a backup office when my in-laws visit. I have a nice 2.5" thick ambrosia maple slab about the right size, and a couple of 4' long, 6" x 8" pine posts. My idea is to wedge-mortice the posts through the slab to create two 30" legs, and then mortice those into the 18" offcuts to make wide "feet". Think two upside down capital "T" going through the slab 3' apart. Would this construction method obviate the need to consider wood movement, since I only have one point of contact between the pieces? My understanding of wood movement is that it is the constraining of movement that can cause issues; in this case I can see the mortices getting 1/16" wider in the winter but if they're wedged, who gives a care? Or, should I hide the mortices and give them a little wiggle room to avoid splitting if the legs swell? Would pine stretching, crack maple? There I go over thinking things again. But thank you for humoring me. I await your answers with bated breath -
Tom the Bomb Figura
Friday Jun 30, 2023
Friday Jun 30, 2023
Brians Questions:
Hi guys,
I'm a hobbyist woodworker on the gold coast Australia. I have slowly acquired all the tools I feel are necessary to build those pieces that my children will one day inherit/sell in a yard sale 😜
I don't have a bandsaw and have gotten by with a jigsaw in most situations. My major issue is when I have thick lumbar (5/4 for example) and need only a thin board. It's wasteful and expensive to plane it down and I feel a bandsaw is required for a good quality resaw. Is this a good enough reason to purchase a bandsaw?
Sam Kruger
Hey guys,
Thank you so much for the podcast and as others say in almost every question, I learn the most from your podcast than any other woodworking podcast I listen to.
Being from Indianapolis, I have a woodworking buddy who has taken a lot of classes at Marc Adam’s School of Woodworking (not sure if Brian and Guy are familiar). He has tried to get me to join a class but it is quite an investment due to the cost and also other factors such as possibly a week off of work depending on the class you sign up for.
While I would love to take a class due to being exposed to new technique’s and tools, I just don’t know if it’s worth the investment when Im just a hobbyist with limited budget and space for tools.
Two questions:
1. Have any of you taken a woodworking class like this before?
2. Is it worth the investment for the class, or should I continue to build skills by online research and building my shop with tools?
Thanks for the great podcast and being willing to take my question.
Jason
Guys Questions:
Hey folks! First off, welcome aboard Brian. You have filled Sean's shoes without skipping a beat. And I particularly enjoy how you engage with extra followup questions too I was thinking in my head!
So my question is about Guys favorite bug excrement - shellac. She treated me wrong and I need help from my bros. Ok it's more of a rant, so hang with me.
I've been a shellac lover for a while. She's never been fickle. Used her on a dozen projects. Always great results. Always a good time. Always easy. And I always use a rubber...you know...to be safe. (babum psshh)
This time and I sanded down a second hand veneer 3'x4' table and decided to give it a shellac finish. Using the big box store's version, I grabbed my favorite blonde, got her drunk with half alcohol, grabbed a trusty rubber, and went to town on the table.
Ok. Ok. Enough with the puns. For the life of me, I ALWAYS got streaks on the surface no matter what I did. I tried different cuts, different applicators (rubber, foam brush and paint brush). Sanding between coats. Not sanding. Working super fast, going slow. Light coats, heavy coats. Whatever. I even went to the Google and found an article from 2010 in Fine Woodworking that said dilute with 25% mineral oil and then later wipe with Naphtha once dry. BIG mistake. Won't get into it. Still bitter. Apparently though, it's hard to apply shellac on large surfaces?
So here I am asking the experts. Do I really need to break out my HVLP spray gun and section off my garage? Or am I doing something wrong? Have any tips?
Paul
Thanks for delivering this content. I’ve learned a lot and I think I’ve listened to every episode.
My question is about which router table to purchase. I have an old Rockler—they’re cheapest model. Looking to upgrade and considering 3 models in particular: Woodpeckers, Incra, and JessEm https://jessem.com/products/ultimate-excel-ii-package
I believe Guy has both the woodpeckers and the incra and would like to hear from all of you what you have and what you would recommend.
Part 2 of my question is I would like to add dovetail joinery to my repertoire, and was considering the incra router table (with the super system LS17 fence) specifically because of its setup for doing that. Is that a good way to go or should I buy a stand alone dovetail jig and if so which one? The other things I use my router table for are raised panel cabinet doors, dados, and obviously edge treatment.
I’m a hobbyist trying to make this a full time job and primarily build cabinets and cabinet based furniture at this point. Have also done a bed and some tables (dining, and smaller). Sorry to be so long winded, I very much appreciate your input.
-Austin, AJ Squared Woodworks
Huys Questions:
Hey guys, really enjoy the podcast. I hear you were low on questions and I had a couple so I thought I would send them.
First question. I am looking to build a bed for me and my wife. How can I determine the best wood to make it from? Cost is much more a factor than how it looks. Another factor is we are heavyset people and I want to be sure it's not going to break while we are on it, sleeping or otherwise. ;P
Second question. I want to make the bed in the style that I have seen on my IG feed, with castle joints. My concern is, when you cut the notches, aren't you weakening that piece of wood? I assume you would want the notch on the top for the side rails where some of the weight would be carried. But in a joint like that, I have always wondered if that type of joint would weaken the piece with the notch taken out of the bottom half.
Thanks Gents! -Jacob
Hi guys! Thanks for continuing to put on an informative podcast, always a pleasure to listen to.
I have a question about dovetail jigs. I make a good amount of furniture pieces with drawers and am looking to potentially get a dovetail jig for drawers. 99% of my drawers are made of 1/2” stock. I have no desire to handcut, time and accuracy are important. I’ve heard these jigs can be a pain to set up but I’d imagine once set up it might be worth it. Any recommendations on a particular jig?
Thanks! Lindsey
Friday Jun 16, 2023
Friday Jun 16, 2023
Brians Questions:
Hi again guys, And thank you for contiuing to make THE BEST woodworking podcast. I have an 8" benchtop style crappy planer(jointer) thicknesser combo machine. The cheap ones you find in lots of colors. It has straight blades and quite short in and outfeed tables. I also have an Axminster AT330ST thicknesser, large lunchbox style, 330mm capacity with a spiral cutter head. I generally do my edge jointing on the table saw with a sled. First of all. When do you choose to skip plane instead face jointing the board first? And second: Would you do it differently with my setup. Thanks again, Gøran Eliassen Nomad Makes
Love the podcast, I have a small unheated shop in Northern Canada. I've learned that during the winter months I need to bring in all my glues and finishes as they don't respond well to freezing. I also learned the hard way that my warm glue on frozen wood doesn't work either. My question is, how long should the glue set before I can return it to freezing conditions? I usually try for 24 hours but this can create long delays in projects and fills my house with glue up panels. Also is there a type of glue that would work best in freezing conditions. CA glue works fine, but isn't strong enough for panel glue ups or assembly. - Ben
Thought this might be a fun question. If you aren't familiar with the phrase "the cobbler's children have no shoes," it often means that you are taking care of other's needs before your own. But it can also be used to mean something that everyone expects of you in your field/craft that you have never done. For example, I always hear that everyone's first project is a cutting board, but I was in the craft for years before I made one! And I've yet to cut a mortise and tenon! So, what haven't you made that everyone would think you had, or what skill do you not have that it would be assumed you do? Peter Downing @mr.downing.woodworking on Instagram
Huy's Questions:
Hey guys! I appreciate your podcast and always look forward on listening to the latest episodes! I am a hobby woodworker who has done some commission builds. As my hobby is turning into a side hustle more and more I am wondering at what point do I make it “official”. I live in the Nashville, TN area and there is a strong market for custom woodworking. Whilst I don’t “need” the money, the thought of fueling my hobby and having the extra cash seems viable. Have any of you became an LLC or setup a DBA? Are there benefits on doing so even if my business would stay relatively small? Again, love the podcast and thank you for your contribution to the community! God Bless! -Will
Great podcast! I am looking for your opinions on a good set of brad point drill bits that won't break the bank. I've been using a set from Harbor Freight, and I would like to step up in quality. I'm a hobbyist who doesn't need the best, just decent quality. Any ideas? -Dan
I think that my next tool purchase might be for a tracksaw-like guide for a circular saw or something similar. We sometimes run into situations where we need to rip a straight line. This would actually be more for ‘carpentry’ applications than fine ‘woodworking’. Things like ripping a long 2x6 or 2x8 at an angle, or rip a sheet of plywood in the field (so portability and reasonable durability would be important). Whatever we buy would be used by a lot of different guys and we’d keep it in our shared workshop. Most of the guys have Dewalt circular saws but several guys have other brands (Milwaukee, Ridgid, etc.). So the track would have to be adjustable for the bases of the various saws. I’ve spent zero time investigating this. Thought I’d start here. Any recommendations? - Mark
Friday Jun 02, 2023
Friday Jun 02, 2023
Brians Questions:
I hear a lot of talk on forums and social media about buying smaller tools to make more room in your shop. I can see how something like a 52 inch rip fence will take up more room but in my little pea brain it takes as much room to plane and joint a 4 foot board on a 72 inch bed jointer and a 15 inch planer and it does a 46 inch bed jointer and a lunch box planer. Am I wrong? Should I take this into consideration when buying tools? I'm fortunate to have a 1000 sqft shop so space isn't necessarily at a premium but I'll also be shop building large built in closets and wine rooms and such so it may get tighter than I think. Thanks for all the info and keep it up. Michael
I know how to sand through the grits. And I know why to sand through the grits. But how long (in general) should you stay at each grit? Obviously higher grits are easy. I usually stay there until any major imperfections are smoothed out. But as I progress, I’m always thinking I should stay there for one more round. Especially at my final grit. Normally I just keep going until the piece “feels” nice and smooth and flat. So far that’s worked for me. I’m sure I’m overthinking it, but figured I’d ask the experts what they do. I’m using an Orbital sander by the way. Sorry for the long winded question, you obviously don’t have to read all that. I ramble haha. Thanks so much. Mick at Broken Levee Woodworks
Guys Questions:
Hey guys and Guy. I’m building a dining table for a friend out of walnut and quarter sawn WO and am starting to think about applying finish. I’m wondering about applying a couple of coats of shellac to deepen the grain and following up with water based poly for the top coat(s). After hearing Guy tout the water based conversion varnish, I’m considering the General Finishes product that has the catalyst you have to mix in. Is that what you use Guy? As far as the shellac, is that a bad idea? I don’t feel confident getting an even coat, especially on the top, using a hand application so I would like to spray. Does that sound feasible? I also don’t want to change the color, jus deepen the grain so what flavor of shellac and cut should I use? Enjoy you guys a lot. My favorite woodworking podcast. Tom Bigmuddy Woodworks
Hey fellas, I have a question about the Domino 500 and 700. What rule(s) of thumb do you use for when to use the 700 instead of the 500 when it's not an obvious situation? Other than the 3rd's of the stock thickness. Thanks for all of your different points of view on how to tackle situations we find ourselves in. Matt in AL
Huy's Questions:
Where do you find the most objective tool reviews? Have a great day Chuck
Alabama ww said he has done half blind dovetails where you cut thru dovetails and add an 1/8 piece on the front. Could you expand on your process for doing this specifically adding the false front and getting it flush to sub front sides. Thank you, Schatz
Friday May 19, 2023
Friday May 19, 2023
Guy's Questions:
Hi all: First, I love the podcast. I listen to several others as well. This is by far the best, the Premier podcast on woodworking. Your focus on the questions is outstanding. I know that you repeat yourselves often but it it is so helpful to those of us that are trying to learn the craft. I learn something every time I listen. Thanks! My question has to do with spraying a finish. I just bought my first HVLP sprayer. I’ve watched many of the YouTube videos on the basic process with regard to how to tune the gun and the process and motion of applying the finish. Many of the finishes today, especially water based finishes, dry very quickly. So what do you do between coats? Do you always breakdown and clean the gun and all of the other components? Is there some tricks that you use to keep the gun clean and ready for the next coat, without breaking it all down and starting a new? Thanks again, Joe
Hey guys. I've been watching all the New Yankee Workshop episodes as they're being released on YouTube lately. Interesting to see how Norm did things back then, including how some of his techniques evolved over the years. One thing he almost always does is pin his tenons with dowels. I don't see this much today unless it's a draw bore, which I don't see Norm do ever. (This pinning is almost always followed up with one of Norm's favorite phrases, "That's never coming apart!") I guess the question is, should we be pinning tenons? Only in specific circumstances? Only if a draw bore? Peter
Infinity tools pro router table package with 3 1/4 Triton or a Grizzly G1035 shaper that can still run 1/2" router bits. Always lots of talk about router tables but never anything about smaller shapers. I found this podcast a while ago and have made my way through all the episodes, I really appreciate all the great content, keep it up. Mike
Huy's Questions:
Hey guys! I know you asked for more questions so I am going to try to help. I have a question about applying Odies Oil with a buffer. I’ve been using Odies because it’s too much work making a spray booth for spray finishing in my woodshop. I have applied Odies by hand with success but it’s a lot of buffing work. Gem buffers are pretty expensive, has anyone tried putting a hook and loop pad on a car buffer and just put a non woven pad on it? Big Cedar table Co.
Can you give any recommendations of hardwoods you enjoy to make furniture with? Alot of the furniture I've built in my house has been made from Walnut, White oak and cherry and am looking for something new. I'm looking to build some new furniture for my basement (tv stand, coffee table, maybe a dry bar to match species) but am looking for something new to use other than those stated above. Thanks for all you do. Paul Genereux at Twin Lake Woodshop
Hey, guys. Love the show. Appreciate the fact that you answer questions and although there is a little banter between the three of you, it doesn't dominate the podcast as other shows do. I want to attend a "convention" for woodworkers and am curious if you have suggestions on what would be a good convention for woodworkers to attend. Thanks in advance! Greg
Friday May 05, 2023
Friday May 05, 2023
Brians Questions:
I inherited my dad’s woodworking tools almost 20 years ago. I’ve upgraded several tools over the years. Most significantly, I replaced his Craftsman contractor table saw with a Sawstop PCS 175 5 years ago. I bought it for the safety mechanism, but I’ve really enjoyed using a cabinet saw. While I consistently use the riving knife, I have seldom used the blade guard cover. I like being able to clearly see the blade meeting the wood. Question/topic: how do you balance safety and convenience in your woodshop? Thank you. Chuck
I inherited my dad’s woodworking tools almost 20 years ago. I’ve upgraded several tools over the years. Most significantly, I replaced his Craftsman contractor table saw with a Sawstop PCS 175 5 years ago. I bought it for the safety mechanism, but I’ve really enjoyed using a cabinet saw. While I consistently use the riving knife, I have seldom used the blade guard cover. I like being able to clearly see the blade meeting the wood. Question/topic: how do you balance safety and convenience in your woodshop? Thank you. Chuck
Guys Questions:
Hey Gentleman (and Guy), Thanks for the great podcast. I'm lucky enough to be able to pester Guy directly with my questions, and he's gracious enough to answer them. Do you have any "Dream Projects"? Something that you have always wanted to build, but just haven't had the time or resources to do it? Think you will ever get to it? Thanks again for sharing all your knowledge, look forward to hearing your answers -Theo
I've heard at least one of you maybe Guy in the beginning say there were quite a few years that went by without a table saw in the shop. I very recently took a big step and got a rikon 14" deluxe band saw as well as the Makita track saw. My table saw is a deplorable early 90's job site Makita. really bad fence zero dust collection tiny arbor. It works but guy has maybe once compared a Cadillac vs a pinto and I own the table saw pinto that got into a wreck and then blew up and Given my two recent big purchases what would you say my big limitations are by not having a serious table saw? Can I get by wanting to make boxes? Can I get by without another big purchase such as a table saw? What do you guys see as limitations given my recent purchases? Jim
Huys Questions:
Hey all, another question. I'm wanting to get into spraying finish, I've seen the option and have heard decent things about the harbor frieght paint sprayer with regulator which is like 30$. I'm wondering what you guys think of it or if any of you have experiences with it? I have a 30 gal air compressor and I'm only looking at small pieces up to a night stand size, so I think that should suffice? I would love to get a 4 stage but that is very much out of the question price wise. Also I'm looking to mostly spray Shelac and conversion varnish. How easy is it to clean? Guy makes it sound extremely easy so I'm curious if Guy or Hue have any videos about cleaning? Sorry I know it's long winded but thank you guys for what you do! Look forward to hearing the answers. Blairswoodshop
I have a question about "refinishing" a shelf. I built a floating shelf out of walnut about 2 years ago and did miter-folded edges all the way around. It's a small shelf, only 32" long, 3" tall face, and 6" deep. My wife would like the same size shelf in white oak. Could i sand back the finish and veneer it in white oak? Or do I need to start from scratch and build a new shelf? Brian