Episodes
Friday Jul 28, 2023
Making Your Own Dominos, Painting Your Projects, Plywood or MDF? and MORE!
Friday Jul 28, 2023
Friday Jul 28, 2023
Brian's Questions:
Hey Fellas,
I’m in the market for a new table saw. I am coming from a 2hp Grizzly hybrid saw with a broken part I cannot find a replacement for. I’m debating between a 3hp Powermatic or Sawstop. Either of these will be a major upgrade from what I have but do you have opinions either way? The Sawstop technology is great and I understand accidents can happen but I tend to think if your hands are that close to the blade you’ve got bigger problems. That said, the Sawstop is up to $1,000 cheaper than the powermatic depending which add-ons you choose. Do you have any thoughts or are there other brands I’m missing and should look into?
Chris
Instagram: @custom_by_chris
Hi guys! I am a hobbyist/turning professional woodworker based in Portland, Oregon. I have really enjoyed listening to your podcast and thought I would quickly ask your opinion on rectangular dominos.
I have been creating shop-made dominos to save money. Creating them is a pain in the butt! Trying to nail metric round-overs with imperial bits at that level of precision is pretty involved. It usually takes a bit of time and wasted material to set the router table up correctly in order to batch a bunch out. Then running a glue groove on everything is another step that takes time. A thought came to me about creating square edged, rectangular tenons that aren't hitting the radii of the domino mortise. My thought is that the few millimeters of void wouldn't really affect the strength of the joint and the voids themselves would act as a hydrolock prevention by nature. Assuming these aren't used for through style tenons, do you see any issues using rectangular stock? Thanks for doing the podcast and I look forward to future episodes!
Sal Al-Sudairy
sfapdx@gmail.com
@oregon_woodworks Instagram
Guy's Questions:
Hey Guy’s
I know finishing gets hit often but this is perhaps a different spin. My basement garage is my workshop so odor and chemical safety is a concern.
I’m mostly done with my plywood/poplar painted dresser (thanks for the tips by the way, screwing and glueing without fancy jointery made assembly a breeze Guy).
That being said what is a good low odor option for finishing a paint grade project that’s being painted white? Yellowing and tannin bleed are therefore both concerns.
I’ve heard Ya’ll talk about conversion varnishes but also heard complaints about odor. Would BIN water based primer under enamel paint be best? Should I go the oil based primer/paint route for durability?
I have recently gotten a paint sprayer but am open to rolling if that’s preferable. I’ll attach my budget sprayer below for context.
Thanks so much, this is by far the best woodworking podcast.
-Dave
Hello Huy, Guy, and Brian! You gentlemen, as well as Sean, have been a huge help and inspiration to my woodworking journey. Keep the great content coming!
I recently picked up an older Bosch 1615 evs plunge router mounted to an old tabletop with an Incra Intelli fence. While I can find manuals online for both of these discontinued items, I'd like to get your input on how to best set up an older router with this fence. Since this particular router is in its own molded housing, I don't think a router lift is an option. What do you all recommend for setting this router up in a new table? I intend to likely build a stand-alone router table with a top made with melamine left over from a recent project, but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks, -Kurt
Huy's Questions:
Hi everyone,
Thank you for a great show. I've listened through the entire catalog twice, learning a lot.
In Episode #115 (and other episodes) you mention UV light turning walnut orange. I recently built a large dining room table out of walnut. I did not dye the table, even though I knew color change was possible. I have never used dye and the walnut was so stunning, I was afraid I would mess it up.
If my table turns orange, can it be sanded off? How deep does the UV "damage" go into the wood?
If I was to dye the walnut, could you please remind us what color dye you have used that works on walnut? How you have applied it to walnut, and when in the finishing process?
hanks again for a great show and a great woodworking education.
Kevin
Hello Gentleman,
Love the podcast. Thanks for all your hard work.
I am considering tackling a Entertainment unit for my bonus room; however I am struggling with material choice. The cabinet finish will be painted, do you suggest plywood or MDF? I plan on building some drawers with plywood boxes and MDF faces but I am concerned about the durability of the MDF when installing hinges if I use it for the carcass construction.
The overall length of this build is 16" long by 8' tall with drawers along the bottom open shelving on either side of that with the TV in the middle. Normally I am not so indecisive ; however this is such a large project and with the high cost of materials I want to start off on the right foot. Any guidance would be appreciated.
- Mike
Friday Jul 14, 2023
Shop Built Jigs, Woodworking With Children, Finding Inspiration and MORE!!
Friday Jul 14, 2023
Friday Jul 14, 2023
Brians Questions:
Every time I make a jig I struggle to get the fence square. How do I do this properly. Is this a common problem amongst new woodworkers? Love the show guys keep it up!
Johnny
This is Ben and I’m 8 years old. I would like to make a pocket knife with my dad. What suggestions do you have for making one?
Ben and Nathan
Guys Questions:
I recently found your podcast and have been binging it while in the shop. Guy, I was quite surprised to learn about your passion for 3D printing and various tinkering in his shop. I share the same passion for tinkering that extends beyond woodworking. In my shop I get almost as much satisfaction in discovering/creating a jig or tool to complete the job as I do in the actual finished product. My biggest “tool” build has been the ‘Mostly Printed CNC machine’, which is good enough for cutting various templates or basic v-carves. I can’t justify the price tag for an off the shelf machine to do that work when this one is good enough for me, at least for now. But I don’t think I could ever make something like a dowelmax, when I can buy a quality tool for relatively cheap. Apologies if this has been asked before. My question is about shop built tools and jigs vs. store bought. From your perspectives, with quality and cost in mind, what tools should be purchased off the shelf and what tools can be or maybe should be shop made? (Crosscut sleds, planer jointing sled, flattening jigs, clamping jigs, mobile bases, router tables…the list goes on and on). For reference I’m very much a hobbyist making stuff for the house or family and friends, while selling a piece here and there. So I do not work under any form of deadlines other than those imposed by my wife. Additionally, this is my creative outlet, I’m a gear design engineer the other 40 hours, this is my opportunity to make what I want to make. Keep up the great work!
Caleb Gurd Gears & Grain Woodcraft
Hey guys. You have been kind enough to answer a few of my questions in the past so thought I would throw a couple more your way. I have two questions which fall into the category of finishing. Number one - I'll be building a coffee table out of walnut which is a mix of heartwood and sapwood. I would like to find a way to blend the color of the mixed wood together. If I use a walnut dye on the entire project will the color of the heartwood and sapwood blend together and provide a uniform looking finish? If dying the wood is the solution can you recommend a brand of dye? Should the dye be oil or water based given that I'll likely use an oil based clear coat. I have never used dye in the past so any tips will be helpful. Answered - Second question. Our cherry wood kitchen table, which measures 36"W x 48"L, needs refinishing. I believe the original finish is an oil based pre-catalyzed lacquer. I'll be refinishing just the table top which has several scratches and shallow dents measuring up to 1/16" deep. The legs are painted black so no need to match the color of the top with the legs. Can you recommend a method for removing the original finish? I don't own or have access to a drum sander. Also, can you recommend a durable oil-based finish for refinishing the table top? Is spraying the preferred method for such a large surface area? Or, will a wipe-on poly do the job? Thanks again for all your help and expertise.
Jack Francis Geneva, IL
Huys Questions:
Hello fellas. Thanks for the enjoyable podcast, I've been listening for months but finally asking a question. Where do you look for inspiration when it comes to design for furniture pieces? Any particular magazines or books you like to reference when coming up with designs. Not necessarily looking for how to's , but more on design and style. Thanks again!
A. Torres
Kind sirs- Wonderful job etc. and I hope this finds you well. I posit this question knowing full well that I "overthink things" (according to Guy), even though I am "really intelligent" and have "design style" (according to Huy, your Tom Fan Club membership package is in the mail, including a life-size Tom cutout, suitable for posing with for social media photos.) I need a second desk for a backup office when my in-laws visit. I have a nice 2.5" thick ambrosia maple slab about the right size, and a couple of 4' long, 6" x 8" pine posts. My idea is to wedge-mortice the posts through the slab to create two 30" legs, and then mortice those into the 18" offcuts to make wide "feet". Think two upside down capital "T" going through the slab 3' apart. Would this construction method obviate the need to consider wood movement, since I only have one point of contact between the pieces? My understanding of wood movement is that it is the constraining of movement that can cause issues; in this case I can see the mortices getting 1/16" wider in the winter but if they're wedged, who gives a care? Or, should I hide the mortices and give them a little wiggle room to avoid splitting if the legs swell? Would pine stretching, crack maple? There I go over thinking things again. But thank you for humoring me. I await your answers with bated breath -
Tom the Bomb Figura
Friday Jun 30, 2023
Woodworking Classes, Router Tables, Dovetailed Drawers and More!!
Friday Jun 30, 2023
Friday Jun 30, 2023
Brians Questions:
Hi guys,
I'm a hobbyist woodworker on the gold coast Australia. I have slowly acquired all the tools I feel are necessary to build those pieces that my children will one day inherit/sell in a yard sale 😜
I don't have a bandsaw and have gotten by with a jigsaw in most situations. My major issue is when I have thick lumbar (5/4 for example) and need only a thin board. It's wasteful and expensive to plane it down and I feel a bandsaw is required for a good quality resaw. Is this a good enough reason to purchase a bandsaw?
Sam Kruger
Hey guys,
Thank you so much for the podcast and as others say in almost every question, I learn the most from your podcast than any other woodworking podcast I listen to.
Being from Indianapolis, I have a woodworking buddy who has taken a lot of classes at Marc Adam’s School of Woodworking (not sure if Brian and Guy are familiar). He has tried to get me to join a class but it is quite an investment due to the cost and also other factors such as possibly a week off of work depending on the class you sign up for.
While I would love to take a class due to being exposed to new technique’s and tools, I just don’t know if it’s worth the investment when Im just a hobbyist with limited budget and space for tools.
Two questions:
1. Have any of you taken a woodworking class like this before?
2. Is it worth the investment for the class, or should I continue to build skills by online research and building my shop with tools?
Thanks for the great podcast and being willing to take my question.
Jason
Guys Questions:
Hey folks! First off, welcome aboard Brian. You have filled Sean's shoes without skipping a beat. And I particularly enjoy how you engage with extra followup questions too I was thinking in my head!
So my question is about Guys favorite bug excrement - shellac. She treated me wrong and I need help from my bros. Ok it's more of a rant, so hang with me.
I've been a shellac lover for a while. She's never been fickle. Used her on a dozen projects. Always great results. Always a good time. Always easy. And I always use a rubber...you know...to be safe. (babum psshh)
This time and I sanded down a second hand veneer 3'x4' table and decided to give it a shellac finish. Using the big box store's version, I grabbed my favorite blonde, got her drunk with half alcohol, grabbed a trusty rubber, and went to town on the table.
Ok. Ok. Enough with the puns. For the life of me, I ALWAYS got streaks on the surface no matter what I did. I tried different cuts, different applicators (rubber, foam brush and paint brush). Sanding between coats. Not sanding. Working super fast, going slow. Light coats, heavy coats. Whatever. I even went to the Google and found an article from 2010 in Fine Woodworking that said dilute with 25% mineral oil and then later wipe with Naphtha once dry. BIG mistake. Won't get into it. Still bitter. Apparently though, it's hard to apply shellac on large surfaces?
So here I am asking the experts. Do I really need to break out my HVLP spray gun and section off my garage? Or am I doing something wrong? Have any tips?
Paul
Thanks for delivering this content. I’ve learned a lot and I think I’ve listened to every episode.
My question is about which router table to purchase. I have an old Rockler—they’re cheapest model. Looking to upgrade and considering 3 models in particular: Woodpeckers, Incra, and JessEm https://jessem.com/products/ultimate-excel-ii-package
I believe Guy has both the woodpeckers and the incra and would like to hear from all of you what you have and what you would recommend.
Part 2 of my question is I would like to add dovetail joinery to my repertoire, and was considering the incra router table (with the super system LS17 fence) specifically because of its setup for doing that. Is that a good way to go or should I buy a stand alone dovetail jig and if so which one? The other things I use my router table for are raised panel cabinet doors, dados, and obviously edge treatment.
I’m a hobbyist trying to make this a full time job and primarily build cabinets and cabinet based furniture at this point. Have also done a bed and some tables (dining, and smaller). Sorry to be so long winded, I very much appreciate your input.
-Austin, AJ Squared Woodworks
Huys Questions:
Hey guys, really enjoy the podcast. I hear you were low on questions and I had a couple so I thought I would send them.
First question. I am looking to build a bed for me and my wife. How can I determine the best wood to make it from? Cost is much more a factor than how it looks. Another factor is we are heavyset people and I want to be sure it's not going to break while we are on it, sleeping or otherwise. ;P
Second question. I want to make the bed in the style that I have seen on my IG feed, with castle joints. My concern is, when you cut the notches, aren't you weakening that piece of wood? I assume you would want the notch on the top for the side rails where some of the weight would be carried. But in a joint like that, I have always wondered if that type of joint would weaken the piece with the notch taken out of the bottom half.
Thanks Gents! -Jacob
Hi guys! Thanks for continuing to put on an informative podcast, always a pleasure to listen to.
I have a question about dovetail jigs. I make a good amount of furniture pieces with drawers and am looking to potentially get a dovetail jig for drawers. 99% of my drawers are made of 1/2” stock. I have no desire to handcut, time and accuracy are important. I’ve heard these jigs can be a pain to set up but I’d imagine once set up it might be worth it. Any recommendations on a particular jig?
Thanks! Lindsey
Friday Jun 16, 2023
Great First Projects, Hobby As A Side Hustle And Where Is Guy?
Friday Jun 16, 2023
Friday Jun 16, 2023
Brians Questions:
Hi again guys, And thank you for contiuing to make THE BEST woodworking podcast. I have an 8" benchtop style crappy planer(jointer) thicknesser combo machine. The cheap ones you find in lots of colors. It has straight blades and quite short in and outfeed tables. I also have an Axminster AT330ST thicknesser, large lunchbox style, 330mm capacity with a spiral cutter head. I generally do my edge jointing on the table saw with a sled. First of all. When do you choose to skip plane instead face jointing the board first? And second: Would you do it differently with my setup. Thanks again, Gøran Eliassen Nomad Makes
Love the podcast, I have a small unheated shop in Northern Canada. I've learned that during the winter months I need to bring in all my glues and finishes as they don't respond well to freezing. I also learned the hard way that my warm glue on frozen wood doesn't work either. My question is, how long should the glue set before I can return it to freezing conditions? I usually try for 24 hours but this can create long delays in projects and fills my house with glue up panels. Also is there a type of glue that would work best in freezing conditions. CA glue works fine, but isn't strong enough for panel glue ups or assembly. - Ben
Thought this might be a fun question. If you aren't familiar with the phrase "the cobbler's children have no shoes," it often means that you are taking care of other's needs before your own. But it can also be used to mean something that everyone expects of you in your field/craft that you have never done. For example, I always hear that everyone's first project is a cutting board, but I was in the craft for years before I made one! And I've yet to cut a mortise and tenon! So, what haven't you made that everyone would think you had, or what skill do you not have that it would be assumed you do? Peter Downing @mr.downing.woodworking on Instagram
Huy's Questions:
Hey guys! I appreciate your podcast and always look forward on listening to the latest episodes! I am a hobby woodworker who has done some commission builds. As my hobby is turning into a side hustle more and more I am wondering at what point do I make it “official”. I live in the Nashville, TN area and there is a strong market for custom woodworking. Whilst I don’t “need” the money, the thought of fueling my hobby and having the extra cash seems viable. Have any of you became an LLC or setup a DBA? Are there benefits on doing so even if my business would stay relatively small? Again, love the podcast and thank you for your contribution to the community! God Bless! -Will
Great podcast! I am looking for your opinions on a good set of brad point drill bits that won't break the bank. I've been using a set from Harbor Freight, and I would like to step up in quality. I'm a hobbyist who doesn't need the best, just decent quality. Any ideas? -Dan
I think that my next tool purchase might be for a tracksaw-like guide for a circular saw or something similar. We sometimes run into situations where we need to rip a straight line. This would actually be more for ‘carpentry’ applications than fine ‘woodworking’. Things like ripping a long 2x6 or 2x8 at an angle, or rip a sheet of plywood in the field (so portability and reasonable durability would be important). Whatever we buy would be used by a lot of different guys and we’d keep it in our shared workshop. Most of the guys have Dewalt circular saws but several guys have other brands (Milwaukee, Ridgid, etc.). So the track would have to be adjustable for the bases of the various saws. I’ve spent zero time investigating this. Thought I’d start here. Any recommendations? - Mark
Friday Jun 02, 2023
Big Tools In A Small Shop, Shellac Finish, Tool Reviews and MORE!
Friday Jun 02, 2023
Friday Jun 02, 2023
Brians Questions:
I hear a lot of talk on forums and social media about buying smaller tools to make more room in your shop. I can see how something like a 52 inch rip fence will take up more room but in my little pea brain it takes as much room to plane and joint a 4 foot board on a 72 inch bed jointer and a 15 inch planer and it does a 46 inch bed jointer and a lunch box planer. Am I wrong? Should I take this into consideration when buying tools? I'm fortunate to have a 1000 sqft shop so space isn't necessarily at a premium but I'll also be shop building large built in closets and wine rooms and such so it may get tighter than I think. Thanks for all the info and keep it up. Michael
I know how to sand through the grits. And I know why to sand through the grits. But how long (in general) should you stay at each grit? Obviously higher grits are easy. I usually stay there until any major imperfections are smoothed out. But as I progress, I’m always thinking I should stay there for one more round. Especially at my final grit. Normally I just keep going until the piece “feels” nice and smooth and flat. So far that’s worked for me. I’m sure I’m overthinking it, but figured I’d ask the experts what they do. I’m using an Orbital sander by the way. Sorry for the long winded question, you obviously don’t have to read all that. I ramble haha. Thanks so much. Mick at Broken Levee Woodworks
Guys Questions:
Hey guys and Guy. I’m building a dining table for a friend out of walnut and quarter sawn WO and am starting to think about applying finish. I’m wondering about applying a couple of coats of shellac to deepen the grain and following up with water based poly for the top coat(s). After hearing Guy tout the water based conversion varnish, I’m considering the General Finishes product that has the catalyst you have to mix in. Is that what you use Guy? As far as the shellac, is that a bad idea? I don’t feel confident getting an even coat, especially on the top, using a hand application so I would like to spray. Does that sound feasible? I also don’t want to change the color, jus deepen the grain so what flavor of shellac and cut should I use? Enjoy you guys a lot. My favorite woodworking podcast. Tom Bigmuddy Woodworks
Hey fellas, I have a question about the Domino 500 and 700. What rule(s) of thumb do you use for when to use the 700 instead of the 500 when it's not an obvious situation? Other than the 3rd's of the stock thickness. Thanks for all of your different points of view on how to tackle situations we find ourselves in. Matt in AL
Huy's Questions:
Where do you find the most objective tool reviews? Have a great day Chuck
Alabama ww said he has done half blind dovetails where you cut thru dovetails and add an 1/8 piece on the front. Could you expand on your process for doing this specifically adding the false front and getting it flush to sub front sides. Thank you, Schatz
Friday May 19, 2023
Best HVLP Finish, Norm Abrams, Conventions/Shows and MORE!
Friday May 19, 2023
Friday May 19, 2023
Guy's Questions:
Hi all: First, I love the podcast. I listen to several others as well. This is by far the best, the Premier podcast on woodworking. Your focus on the questions is outstanding. I know that you repeat yourselves often but it it is so helpful to those of us that are trying to learn the craft. I learn something every time I listen. Thanks! My question has to do with spraying a finish. I just bought my first HVLP sprayer. I’ve watched many of the YouTube videos on the basic process with regard to how to tune the gun and the process and motion of applying the finish. Many of the finishes today, especially water based finishes, dry very quickly. So what do you do between coats? Do you always breakdown and clean the gun and all of the other components? Is there some tricks that you use to keep the gun clean and ready for the next coat, without breaking it all down and starting a new? Thanks again, Joe
Hey guys. I've been watching all the New Yankee Workshop episodes as they're being released on YouTube lately. Interesting to see how Norm did things back then, including how some of his techniques evolved over the years. One thing he almost always does is pin his tenons with dowels. I don't see this much today unless it's a draw bore, which I don't see Norm do ever. (This pinning is almost always followed up with one of Norm's favorite phrases, "That's never coming apart!") I guess the question is, should we be pinning tenons? Only in specific circumstances? Only if a draw bore? Peter
Infinity tools pro router table package with 3 1/4 Triton or a Grizzly G1035 shaper that can still run 1/2" router bits. Always lots of talk about router tables but never anything about smaller shapers. I found this podcast a while ago and have made my way through all the episodes, I really appreciate all the great content, keep it up. Mike
Huy's Questions:
Hey guys! I know you asked for more questions so I am going to try to help. I have a question about applying Odies Oil with a buffer. I’ve been using Odies because it’s too much work making a spray booth for spray finishing in my woodshop. I have applied Odies by hand with success but it’s a lot of buffing work. Gem buffers are pretty expensive, has anyone tried putting a hook and loop pad on a car buffer and just put a non woven pad on it? Big Cedar table Co.
Can you give any recommendations of hardwoods you enjoy to make furniture with? Alot of the furniture I've built in my house has been made from Walnut, White oak and cherry and am looking for something new. I'm looking to build some new furniture for my basement (tv stand, coffee table, maybe a dry bar to match species) but am looking for something new to use other than those stated above. Thanks for all you do. Paul Genereux at Twin Lake Woodshop
Hey, guys. Love the show. Appreciate the fact that you answer questions and although there is a little banter between the three of you, it doesn't dominate the podcast as other shows do. I want to attend a "convention" for woodworkers and am curious if you have suggestions on what would be a good convention for woodworkers to attend. Thanks in advance! Greg
Friday May 05, 2023
Table Saw Safety, Dream Projects, Cheap Sprayers and MORE!
Friday May 05, 2023
Friday May 05, 2023
Brians Questions:
I inherited my dad’s woodworking tools almost 20 years ago. I’ve upgraded several tools over the years. Most significantly, I replaced his Craftsman contractor table saw with a Sawstop PCS 175 5 years ago. I bought it for the safety mechanism, but I’ve really enjoyed using a cabinet saw. While I consistently use the riving knife, I have seldom used the blade guard cover. I like being able to clearly see the blade meeting the wood. Question/topic: how do you balance safety and convenience in your woodshop? Thank you. Chuck
I inherited my dad’s woodworking tools almost 20 years ago. I’ve upgraded several tools over the years. Most significantly, I replaced his Craftsman contractor table saw with a Sawstop PCS 175 5 years ago. I bought it for the safety mechanism, but I’ve really enjoyed using a cabinet saw. While I consistently use the riving knife, I have seldom used the blade guard cover. I like being able to clearly see the blade meeting the wood. Question/topic: how do you balance safety and convenience in your woodshop? Thank you. Chuck
Guys Questions:
Hey Gentleman (and Guy), Thanks for the great podcast. I'm lucky enough to be able to pester Guy directly with my questions, and he's gracious enough to answer them. Do you have any "Dream Projects"? Something that you have always wanted to build, but just haven't had the time or resources to do it? Think you will ever get to it? Thanks again for sharing all your knowledge, look forward to hearing your answers -Theo
I've heard at least one of you maybe Guy in the beginning say there were quite a few years that went by without a table saw in the shop. I very recently took a big step and got a rikon 14" deluxe band saw as well as the Makita track saw. My table saw is a deplorable early 90's job site Makita. really bad fence zero dust collection tiny arbor. It works but guy has maybe once compared a Cadillac vs a pinto and I own the table saw pinto that got into a wreck and then blew up and Given my two recent big purchases what would you say my big limitations are by not having a serious table saw? Can I get by wanting to make boxes? Can I get by without another big purchase such as a table saw? What do you guys see as limitations given my recent purchases? Jim
Huys Questions:
Hey all, another question. I'm wanting to get into spraying finish, I've seen the option and have heard decent things about the harbor frieght paint sprayer with regulator which is like 30$. I'm wondering what you guys think of it or if any of you have experiences with it? I have a 30 gal air compressor and I'm only looking at small pieces up to a night stand size, so I think that should suffice? I would love to get a 4 stage but that is very much out of the question price wise. Also I'm looking to mostly spray Shelac and conversion varnish. How easy is it to clean? Guy makes it sound extremely easy so I'm curious if Guy or Hue have any videos about cleaning? Sorry I know it's long winded but thank you guys for what you do! Look forward to hearing the answers. Blairswoodshop
I have a question about "refinishing" a shelf. I built a floating shelf out of walnut about 2 years ago and did miter-folded edges all the way around. It's a small shelf, only 32" long, 3" tall face, and 6" deep. My wife would like the same size shelf in white oak. Could i sand back the finish and veneer it in white oak? Or do I need to start from scratch and build a new shelf? Brian
Friday Apr 21, 2023
Scrap Wood Projects, Online Classes, Drying Lumber and MORE!!
Friday Apr 21, 2023
Friday Apr 21, 2023
Brians Questions:
Hey guys, Got another one for ya. I have never used real hardwood for a project. Everything I have done so far has been with random scraps, pine or plywood. I was wondering what you guys would suggest as a good first project using hardwood. I do have a small variety pack of 3 species I picked up from woodcraft a while back that was on sale. 3 small boards that are essentially 2' 1x4's. Couldn't tell you what species they are at this point. I had thought about starting out by making a simple wood mallet using these. As a companion question. What general advice would you give someone just starting out. I don't have a planer or joiner so where should I get my hardwood? Do typical wood suppliers have an option to purchase already dimensioned lumber? I know a big box store is always an option. What species would you recommend getting started with? Any other helpful tips for this rookie? Thanks again, Jon
Guys Questions:
Hello gents, My wife creates some really detailed pyrography on offcuts from my woodworking projects. Usually I give them a light coating of linseed oil or tung oil but We’ve found over time, and in particular when in direct sunlight, that the burnt image fades quite a lot. Any ideas on a finish that would help prevent or reduce this fading? Thanks Adam (listener from the UK)
Hey all this is Mason with Blairswoodshop again. I've been thinking of more questions to ask and I have a couple. I'll start with this one and send the others later. I've been seeing a lot of advertising from finewoodworking magazine about some online courses. I'm actually quite interested. I live in a rual area of Missouri and before that I was in a rural area of Southern California. So any kind of in-person class is always a 2-3 hour drive away. I know there is a lot of experience lost with the lack of hands on and in person instruction, but do you all still think there is something to be gained through online live instruction? Most of my experience is through hours of research, reading, listening to this podcast, YouTube, and hands on experience. I feel I could learn some processes faster even through a camera, where my questions can be answered directly at that moment. Sorry about the long winded question, but I am curious of what you guys think?
Huys Questions:
Huy, Guy, Newbie Brian - First off let me apologize for taking a month off from my regular queries. I had to go ahead and dodge a process server after my 7 year old made me get my wife a toilet seat heater for Christmas. Second, Happy New Year to you and yours. May your 2023 be filled with etcetera. Third, I got a hot one for you. Had a 30" diameter beech tree taken down out of my deck (it was growing through it), and saved the bottom 10'. Borrowed my buddy's chainsaw and Alaskan mill and slabbed it up into 8/4. Here is my conundrum. I am 95% sure I will use all but two slabs as milled lumber to make a big dresser. Would you, if you were in my size 13's, mill the lumber to rough size green/now, and then air dry it, or dry it as stacked slabs and then mill it? I can see advantages and disadvantages to both approaches, I'm leaning towards leaving it as slabs only because beech is notorious for twisting as it dries, and I feel like less mass moves easier. But then I consider that if it has innate tension, it's going to move when I mill it, no matter what. I have a whole bunch of other questions but I like a nice lead-in to warm up the audience, so I'll send them individually. You guys breaking trying to break up a multi-parter would just throw off my flow. Love you miss you. Tom @figurawoodwork
I use Odie’s oil. I don’t like it for furniture at all though. I think it looks nice, but I question the durability. That said, I do use it on pens that I sell. You do not get a high shine, but it does leave a nice, natural looking finish with a moderate shine. Plus it applies super easily and seems durable enough for my pens. I was wondering if you guys had a take on hard wax oils for wood turnings. We don’t talk about lathe work a lot. Dillon
Friday Apr 07, 2023
Off Brand Tools, Perfect Drawer Slides, Selling Your Work For $$$, And MORE!
Friday Apr 07, 2023
Friday Apr 07, 2023
Brians Questions:
Does a combination square needs to be a Starrett ($$$$) or we clan go with cheaper brands. Kind regards from São Paulo - Brazil.
Hey guys, quick question for you. I have an old grizzly 20" planer and I want to resaw some wood on my bandsaw down to 1/2" and 1/4" pieces. The bandsaw is from 1943 and doesn't leave the best finish. The minimum thickness on the planer is 1/2" but I see the piece do some shimmying when I put stock that thin through there. What's the best way to finish planing the stock and finishing it off without access to a drum sander? Any tips would be much appreciated. Love the show and keep up the good work! JARED
Guy's Questions:
Hey guys. I have been wanting to ask this for a while now. I have been asked by my wife to build dresser for our bedroom. This would be my first time building drawers. I have the cabinet built and the drawer boxes built. But when I put the slides on the drawers just don’t glide like I would think they would. I mean some of them do. I am just not sure what I am doing wrong. I have checked all my spacing for the openings. Could it be my boxes are not square? What is the best way to get them square? Nick.
I've been listening for a few years now, and have learned a lot. My most pressing question is about finishing. Recently l've built a couple kitchen tables that I really wanted to be special and put a lot of time into them. I thought everything turned out great, but at the final step, topcoating, I got a lot of streaking - more so than I've gotten before (although this is a bigger surface area project than I've ever done). I stained it, then used AquaCoat water-based grain filler (which left a few minor streaks across the grain that I couldn't sand out, but I can live with that), and then 3 coats of ArmRSeal satin. After the 3rd coat I had a dull sheen in one spot and so gave it a 4th coat of satin, pretty thick this time, and the sheen streaking got worse. Am assuming that I need to sand it down (and hopefully not get down into the stain) and start again. Someone suggested gloss or semi-gloss ArmRSeal and then a final coat with satin. Is there an easier solution - buff it out?? Mark Schmidt
Huy's Questions:
Hello gentlemen. I stumbled across your podcast a few months ago and have been enjoying it ever since. I apologize I have not spent a lot of time going back through older episodes, so this question may have come up already. I’ve been woodworking as a hobby for several years now and enjoy it as my creative outlet. I prefer making smaller pieces as opposed to big furniture but have dabbled with both as gifts and favors to friends. In 2023 I’d like to start turning this into a small business. I enjoy my day job, so this would be more of a side hustle to make enough money to buy more wood and tools (and maybe whiskey 😉). Do you have any tips or tricks for getting started selling projects? Facebook marketplace seems like a dead zone and Etsy seems saturated. Thanks, and I appreciate any advice you have on this subject. Nick Hellman
I am slowly trying to turn my tiny shed into a shop. It is coming along but is not climate controlled. I was recently glueing up some thin strips of wood for an accent on a holiday gift. I live in Oregon, about an hour east of Portland. It doesn’t get super cold here usually, but that week was a bit colder than usual. Anyway, when I went to trim up the strips they came apart where they were glued up. The glue didn’t bond at all. There was just white remnants of dry glue. After asking a friend who is a professional woodworker and reading the label I learned that you can’t use wood glue below 46°. The bottle says not to let it freeze. My friend told me once the bottle freezes it is not good anymore. I bought a new bottle and am keeping it inside the house and doing glue ups inside until the spring. Is this true that once the bottle freezes it’s no good? Any advice for working in the winter in an unheated shop? Should I worry about the wood moving when I bring it inside? Any other products I should worry about in cold temps? Thanks. Happy New Year! Jon Moch
Friday Mar 24, 2023
Friday Mar 24, 2023
Guy's Questions:
Good afternoon Gentlemen, Thank you for your podcast, I really appreciate it, and you fellows. Long story short, I am a re-engaging woodworker after taking a 20 year hiatus. Due to life requirements and work travel frequency, I was unable to keep up my hobby. I now have the time (and hopefully will NEVER have to fly somewhere for work again) to start anew. Things have changed quite a bit in past couple decades, and so have my interests in terms of wood working. Over my hiatus, I sold some of my equipment in hopes the machines would be used instead of sitting idle and it is time to re-equip my shop needs with eliminated tools and new needs. My tool requirements are also much different today, then they were 20 years ago. One requirement I now have is a drum sander. I don't have the desire to rotate any work (key point), and want to acquire a machine that fits my specific needs, thus an 18" capability is perfect for what my new woodworking interests require. I also refuse to take any advice from boob tube woodworkers recommendations, as it seems that 90% of the creators I find may have started out providing woodworking content, but they mostly all just become prejudiced tool reviewers who conflict each other based on who is giving them free tools or paying them. I have lost a lot of respect for some woodworkers on YouTube who used to be considered by me as inspirations in their early YouTube careers, no longer. With that said, I have trimmed my interest list down to a Jet 1836 and Supermax 19-38. I imagine some or all of you have had experience with both, and would like your feedback. I am not currently considering models with moving/height adjustable belts such as the shop fox/grizzly, however if you have anything to add on those, it would be nice to hear. Glad you have a new host, it seems like he may be a great fit for the podcast. Well wishes to all of you, and Guy, I hope your health is well.
Kurtis Van Kampen
You fellas have filled my head with hours and hours of information. You’re truly the best Podcast I’ve found. So before Guy’s head begins to swell, on with the question. I’ve started watching Nee Yankee workshop again now they I actually have a 520 sqft shop to work out in. In the first season Norm used what he called a panel cutting jig for the table saw. The fence of the jig was located on the blade side rather than the operator side like the modern crosscut sled. This jig is dead simple being made of only three boards. I had big plans to make a modern crosscut sled (not the aircraft carrier) with all the bells and whistles. Now I’m completely rethinking my next table saw jig. Since Guy (like myself) is the only one of you old enough to remember the first episode, this should probably be HIS question. Keep up the great work fellows. I appreciate what each of you bring to the table. -Bryan
Huy's Questions:
I’d first like to say that I listen to a bunch of other woodworking podcasts as well, but of all of them, yours has the lowest level of useless off-topic banter. Keep up the good work. I have a question about the usage of my shop air cleaner. It’s a Jet AFS-1000B, and my ceiling is only 7’6”, so can’t hang it from there. So I have it on a roll-around cart. My shop is 13’ x 17’. I don’t have a central dust collection system, but for the following tools I hook up my shop vac to the tool: table saw, planer, drum sander, router table and random orbit sander. I also have a circular saw, a handheld router, a jigsaw, a drill press, a belt sander and a palm sander. My question is, for which tools should I be turning on the air cleaner, and on which setting? (it has low, medium and high settings) And how long should I keep it on for after the tool has been turned off? Thanks. Steve
My perception is that the people who seem to get hurt the most are woodworking professionals who become too comfortable/familiar with machines. Is that a fair assessment? [I am a hobbyist woodworker.] FYI, on 3 I am just asking for a comment on my observation. Have a great day Chuck
Brians Questions:
First, love the podcast and thank you! Question: I’m building a 28 foot table. I’m thinking that I will essentially build 4 table tops and connect them with ‘double breadboards’ with runners between the tressels (5). Thoughts? Back story: I am a veteran and I run a program that addresses PTSD, Substance Abuse and homelessness in the the veteran community. An essential component is that the veterans cook meals and eat together and as the program has grown, there is an assortment of tables in the house and I want too big a build one. I am an average woodworker and I can do the basics. It doesn’t have to be piece of art, just chunky and uniform. Also, there’s not a big endless budget so I am doing what I can. The vision: I fhave to build it in my garage and put it together on site. 28 feet long, 38 inches wide (the space dictates it). The only way I can work out the jointing is a double breadboard end that joins each section. I thought about end jointing with dowels alternating the lengths of the boards so there was no single joint across the length of the board which was quite the puzzle to figure out. 5 trestles essentially spaced under the middle breadboards with 2 runners supporting the table between legs and one runner connecting the legs 1/3 up from the bottom of the leg. Craig laseur
Hi Guys, I love your podcast. I have listened to every single episode! Please keep them coming! I was listening to Episode 114 about the domino tips and I am now thinking of completing my kitchen cabinet project using dominoes instead of pocket screws for the cabinet construction as I already own a domino. I was curious as to how Brian prefers to assemble cabinets. I have already watched Guy's videos! ;) Do you use the domino? How do you go about end panel construction? How do you finish your cabinets? Any tips you can provide is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Natasha Round Lake, Ontario, Canada