Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking
Episodes
Thursday Jun 06, 2019
Thursday Jun 06, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) I’m interested to know, before youtube and Instagram, who inspired you? -ralphbrackney
2) Is there any issue with the combo machines having a shorter bed length for the planer aspect? - Brent
Seans Questions:
1) What is your biggest screw up/mistake on a project and what did you do to fix, cover up or a notable screw up with a clever fix. Not the worst but you got creative with the fix.
-R2 Woodworking.
2) I just wanted to say thank you guys for sharing your wealth of knowledge on the subject of woodworking. I work as a law enforcement officer and listening to your podcasts on my way home from work help me not only unwind but expand my understanding of the craft.
I am a hobbyist who is just getting into woodworking and was curious if you guys could point me in the right direction of specific written literature so I can really nail down the basics before moving on to more complex tasks.
Thanks again,
Luke
Huys Questions:
1)Regarding thin kerf blades - seems like you guys didn't like them? I bought a "Freud" thin kerf ripping blade for my underpowered Delta from Lowes. That Freud thin kerf completed changed my saw for the better. Huge difference. Anyway were you guys worried about flex or something with the thin kerf? I didn't understand. - JJ
2) Years ago, before I really got into woodworking, I painted some cheap 1/4” plywood for a project. I only painted one side and over (very little) time the pieces curled up like taco shells. Since then, I have always finished both sides of the plywood. I am currently making a shelving unit that will be wedged into a corner. I am using 3/4” blondewood ply from the big box stores. The backside of the shelving unit will never be seen. On plywood this thick, do I still need to keep painting both sides? If so, does it need an equal number of coats on both sides? - Hunter Robinson
Books mentioned:
The Why and How of Woodworking
The Complete Illustrated Guide To Joinery
Our Social Media Picks:
Guy: @tim_noone_furnituredesign
Sean: @haltaylor_rocks
Huy: @bbumslife
Thursday May 23, 2019
Thursday May 23, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) A follow-up question that may get Guy going:
I’m currently upgrading my 3hp sawstop pcs 52 inch because I’m moving states and gifting it to my father.
Originally, my thoughts were to go right to the 5HP Sawstop ICS without much consideration for other saws. I do like the safety feature just as an insurance Policy because you never know - we all do stupid things from time to time. Can you speak on times where the sawstop does not operate as intended and fails to save the injury and other saws that may be better but do not include the technology? I am typically pretty careful.
-Ray
2) I emailed a little while ago to ask about MFT tops and all I have found premade so far are MDF tops for the MFT. BUT I found these tops and benches by Armor tools. https://armor-tool.com/products/woodworking/workstations/benches/
It is a butcher block top and has 3/4 inch holes. I do use Festool sanders, a router, and track saw but is there any reason that using a 3/4 inch dog hole top would be inferior to the 20mm top Festool uses? I know the Festool dog hole devices will not work but there are lots of 3/4 inch accessories. If the dog holes are aligned correctly I can bump the Festool track against the dogs to line up cuts. Am I missing a downside?
The armor tool top is $200-250 but seems more sturdy than the MDF.
Lamar
Sean's Questions:
1) Hey guys. Love the podcast as always. Please keep it up! I have a quick question about finishing. I know you covered this topic but I’m curious about protection from water marks.
I had a client recently that wanted a long desk for her children out of walnut. I explained that water in wood or wood finish is never a good idea. (Leaving standing water, cups rings, etc) is there a finish out there( besides epoxy) that will withstand this water. I am also wondering about hot items. I’ve noticed some finishes(lacquer) will leave a ring if you put a hot cup on it. Are there finishes that won’t fail with either of these issues? Thanks so much.
Ryan Wilging
2) Hey guys,
Love the show, definitely one of the best Woodworking podcasts out there.
I’m going to build a 2 car garage (approx. 24’x30’) for use as my new shop. I’m a hobbyist woodworker, mostly a couple of hours here and there nights and weekends. If you were building a new shop from the ground up, what features and considerations would you recommend?
Thanks, Ron
Huys Questions:
1) My question is regarding Baileigh Industrial tools. I currently own an 8" Baileigh jointer (IJ-875) and really like it. I've been contemplating purchasing a free standing router table and possibly a cyclone style dust collector. My current shop is outfitted nicely with good tools i.e. Powermatic planer, drum sander and mortiser, Sawstop TS, Laguna bandsaw, etc but I'm wondering if any of you have experience with Baileigh and what your opinion is of them. I find their prices are slightly less than say Powermatic and other top brands so it makes sense to consider them only if they're a trusted brand. I don't see or hear much about them and all I have to go on is the jointer I have. I will say their manuals leave a lot to be desired. Thanks for any input! Michael
2) Huy, how is the baby? My wife and I had our first not long after you, he is a 4-month-old little boy now - The work life/home life balance came relatively easy, but I’m having trouble adding in shop time especially during the week - if I only have between 5 and 9 with the family how do I justify spending a quarter of that time fooling around in the shop? Or am I now destined to be a weekend warrior? Oh, actual question, how is Huy handling it? Matterhorn woodworks
Our Social Picks:
Sean: @CTFineFurniture
Guy: @prusawoodworks
Huy: Kevin0611
Thursday May 09, 2019
Thursday May 09, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) What's your least favorite wood species to work with and why? Eric
2) Thank you for all the great content and for coming together to create this podcast. I've learned a lot from all three of you over the last few years. Here's my question:
I live near the coast in North Florida which is a very warm and humid climate. Huy, I know you live in Alabama, so maybe you can relate to this. My shop is climate controlled in that it has central A/C, but it's an old building and the humidity level varies greatly throughout the year. I don't have local access to a lot of hardwood lumber, but what I can get is typically kiln dried and stored in non climate controlled environments before I get my hands on it. It seems like invariably the lumber I get warps in some way, almost regardless of how long I let it sit before milling it and the moves again after I mill it. I know this is common, but I think the amount of movement I'm seeing is not what you'd see in a climate with more moderate humidity, but maybe I'm wrong. The exception to this is a batch of air dried cherry that I picked up from someone that had been drying for about 20 years. Given that I don't want to wait 20 years before starting each project, is there anything I can do to reduce the amount of movement I'm seeing in my lumber and can you talk a little bit about techniques you might employ if the wood does move so that it's not just all wasted. For example; alternating cups and bows when gluing a panel together so that they kind of cancel each other out.
Thanks again for your willingness to share your experiences with the community.
Dave
Seans Questions:
1) Seeing other woodworkers invest into the community is awesome, I appreciate that you guys are doing your part to keep our craft alive.
I have a question for you guys.
I have found in many cases its easier to break out a hand tool, than to set up an operation using power tools. In what cases will you choose a hand tool over a power tool, and why? Would love to hear your thoughts on this.
regards,
Mike Miller
MillerWoodcraft
2) My wife and I recently bought our first house and are looking to freshen up the kitchen. Looking to do a painted finish but I am trying to weigh the pros and cons of refinishing what we have or purchasing new cabinets. The current cabinets are solid oak boxes with MDF doors with veneered front, original to the house. Originally I was going to build new shaker style doors and then paint everything to match. However, after doing some test doors on the router table with tongue and groove bit, I am not feeling so confident(novice woodworker) with that and also the amount of work involved to remove the finish and repaint all the boxes as well. Given all that, it seems easier or more cost and time effective to buy new cabinets that I can finish myself or possibly pre-finished in the color we want. Any insight or advice you guys could provide would be very beneficial. Thank you in advance and absolutely love the podcast! Andy
Huys Questions:
1) Question - I have a Delta 28-243 14" bandsaw with a riser block kit that I've been slowly upgrading. I've put new wheel bearings and urethane tires on. Next step I'm thinking about is ordering the Carter wheel guides instead of using cooling blocks. They are spendy, so do you think it's worth the upgrade? Thanks, love the show!
-Larry
2) Hey gents, love the podcast here is a question/show topic for you. What are your top 5 productivity techniques when building furniture? I'm sure there a ton of juicy nuggets in there that can help a ton of people including myself. I'm running a furniture business on the side and I'm trying to get faster while increasing/maintaining my quality. Thanks guys, Brad
Our Social Picks:
Sean YouTube pick: Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration
Huy: @willowswoodworks
Guy: @tektonguild
Thursday Apr 25, 2019
Thursday Apr 25, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Hello Guy, Sean, and Huy - I am about to begin making two solid walnut dressers and I would love to hear your input on web frames. I’ve seen a few methods for attaching them to the casework, such as sliding dovetails, shallow dado grooves with the frames glued at the front of the case and floating in the back, and screws with elongated slots to allow for the casework to expand independently of the web frames. One of the dressers will have two columns of three drawers with a vertical center divider in the middle, and the other is five drawers high. Each case will be 18” deep with dovetails as the joinery. How would you guys go about attaching the web frames? Thank you for all of the invaluable work and education you continue to put into the woodworking community! Gregory Raiewski
2) What is the piece you've built that you are most proud of? Eric
Seans Questions:
1) I’ve actually had several questions over the last few weeks but never got around to sending them. I’m wondering what your thoughts are on using 1 runner vs 2 on a table saw sled. Thanks, Brian
2) Can you talk about the potential disadvantages of putting the right side of your table saw up against a wall? I have a 52” sawstop and want to maximize shop space, as I work out of a 2 car garage that is about 500 square feet. - Ray
Huys Questions:
1) Absolutely love the podcast! Y’all have some great information and I’d like to thank you for taking time out of your lives to share your knowledge with others!
I had a question about how you go about choosing a finish for a piece you’re going to build. At what point do you figure out exactly what finish you’re going to use? A side question to this would be how would you know when to use a dye or pigment rather than a stain or a particular type of oil on that project? I have seemed to “struggle” in a sense on narrowing down exactly what route to take for a finish to give my builds the best finish for color and longevity. Just would like to hear what your input would be on this topic. Thank you again for the wonderful shop talk podcast. Keep up the great work!
Clean cut woodworking
2) Hey Guys, I’ve got a question for the podcast that I’ve never heard anyone address. Is it worth it to invest in high-dollar drill bits?
As a hobbyist on a tight budget, I generally get new bits at the box store, but sometimes I can look at them while they are spinning, and tell that they are not spinning straight. They seem to do the job, but I always wondered if having better bits (or possibly a better drill, I guess) is worth the money?
Thanks, and love the great show format.
Sincerely,
Scott A.
Jackson, TN
Our Instagram Picks
Sean: @Kyllesebree
Huy: @w_squared2
Thursday Apr 11, 2019
Thursday Apr 11, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy's Questions:
1) Hey guys, I hope all is well. When I was building my Roubo workbench I ran into a rust problem. I purchased kiln died lumber from a trusted source. I drilled a hole in some 4" thick walnut for my tail vise end cap. I inserted my bench crafted screw to check the fit and left it for a few days. When I removed the screw it had rusted. Any thoughts on why this happened? Should I paint the section of the screw that will remain in the endcap? JD Messick
2) What do you guys think are the essential measuring tools that any woodworker should start out with; ie combination squares, rulers, etc. and any brand recommendations you might have. Any input is appreciated. -Travis
Sean's Questions:
1) Gents, I'm torn at the moment as I am in the process outfitting my new 400sf stand-alone shop. Until recently, I've planned to install a 2 stage dust collection system with super dust deputy, externally venting fan and hard ducting with blast gates to each tool. I recently snagged up a used Festool domino ($675!) and ETC 125. I'm becoming a convert and seriously considering scrapping the dust collector plan and getting an Extractor to switch around as needed for each tool. What are your thoughts on going with 1 method over the other? I can't afford both at the moment. Which extractor would you recommend? Is it feasible to hook a single extractor to all my other non-Festool equipment? I'm assuming that a little adapter would be needed for each. Other tools in the shop include a table saw, bandsaw, disc, and spindle sanders, planer, jointer, etc. Cheers! Clayton
2) I am planning to build a bookshelf for my son that will be around 5.5 feet tall, 3 feet wide and around 15 inches deep. I am planning to use plywood with a solid wood face frame and have two sturdiness questions. First, what thickness should I use for the plywood? I've been planning on 3/4 but am not sure if that is overkill/too heavy or if it's what I should be using. Second, what are some suggestions for standing stability? It will be on carpet and I'm wondering if there are ways to stabilize it without attaching it to the wall. My son is one and grabs, pulls and climbs on everything so I want to make sure there is no way he can get it off balanced enough for it to come down. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice you have to offer!
Regards,
Alan Dills
Huy's Questions:
1) Hey guys, loving the podcast and listening to the back catalog. Topic for Huy, can you elaborate on the benefits, ease of use, and justification with your scope of work and the cost of the pantorouter? Do you think this is a tool where you will find a way to use it on nearly every project? That thing looks awesome! Thanks! Nutone woodworker
2) What’s up guys, I’m hoping by the end of the summer to have a much bigger shop space. First purchase I would like to make is a Jointer. Looking at the Grizzly 8” w/ a helical head. Any opinions on that specific one would be great, also open to suggestions on others. But my main question is, does a jointer replace a planer? Besides a planer being self-feeding, what are the actual differences? Thanks, guys look forward to the show every other week
Tom
Our Instagram Picks:
Sean: @justin_dipalma
Guy: @garagewoodworks
Huy: @ericreason
Thursday Mar 28, 2019
Thursday Mar 28, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) My question for the guys. With the internet providing information and inspiration for projects, do you still subscribe to woodworking magazines?
Eric (Poplar_shop)
2) Love the podcast guys. Got a question for the podcast. If you only get 3 Festool tools to that you could have in your shop what would they be? The domino can’t be included in your 3 tools. I have a track saw and looking into a sander possibly the rotex 125. I’m not sure I could justify the price of the kapex though I see you guys all have one.
Chris
Seans Questions:
1) This may be too basic to address on the shoe but you all talk of different benches. Assembly, work, and out-feed. I get what an out-feed bench is but what is the difference between work and assembly bench. Rick
2) Can you guys talk tack saws in a future episode? I’ve got some large panels to cut for a coffee bar i’m building and need some feedback on different brands. - W B Designs
Huys Questions:
1) I have a question about a stand-alone router table vs table saw extension wing router table. I’ve recently purchased a 3.25HP router and lift, and I’m now ready to build a dedicated router table. My workspace is a 20’x20’ garage that I share with the family van. Space is limited and everything has to be mobile. My vision has always been to add an extension wing router table to my cabinet saw. My recent concern is keeping the table flat over time. I’ll incorporate a torsion top, but I fear the saw will get too heavy to move around. Do you think I’ll have long term success with the extension wing or should go with a stand alone router table? I look forward to the input, keep up the good work!
Thanks
Jacob from North Carolina
2) Hi Guys, I love the show. I don’t have any woodworking buddies, so I love the Q&A format because you answer a lot of questions I have as a newish woodworker. I’ve been looking at building a new workbench and like any good woodworker, I’m doing too much research and not enough building. My question is about work holding. What types of vices do you guys prefer, why, what are the pros and cons. I was specifically debating between the Veritas twin screw or a Benchcrafted leg vice and could add a Moxon vice down the line if needed. Do you have any thoughts on either of these? I have a pretty small shop so I do mostly hand tool work since I don’t have much room for machines.
Thanks! Matt
Our Instagram picks:
Huy: @Mcintyrefurniture
Sean: @gregoryraiewski
Guy: @Woodreview
Thursday Mar 14, 2019
Thursday Mar 14, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Worst injury you've suffered from the shop? -Eric
2) I’m fairly new to woodworking and need to upgrade my job site saw to a more robust table saw with good fence options. This is just a hobby so I won’t be running it 40hrs a week. The problem is that I don’t have 220v near the garage and future plans include relocating the workshop to the other side of the property so it would be a waste to pay an electrician to run a new 220 circuit to the garage. I’ve been looking at the Powermatic PM1000 or the Grizzly G0833P hybrid saw. Both can be wired for 110 and 220 and seem to have enough power for the type of woodworking I do. Bobby
Seans Questions:
1) Hey guys! Love the podcast. If you’ve already addressed it please direct me to the episode, but otherwise, Pre-finish... I hear of/see people doing it but don’t understand. Do you pre-finish to get the colour you want, then finish for the durability and or level of gloss? And what combinations of products work? I wouldn’t have thought all products will adhere to an oil for instance. Cheers, Mark
2) Hey guys! The show is phenomenal and your content is inspiring. Do you ever follow up with past customers to see how your furniture pieces have aged? I'm always trying to learn new things and get better in the craft. A feedback loop or some kind of retrospective (Shawn, as a software guy you might appreciate that...) would help to get some insight on what design or construction choices worked well and what might need some tweaking. Maybe that's opening up pandora's box and is ill-advised, just curious as to your opinions. Firelight_1226
Huys Questions:
1) Okay, I’ve got another one for you three. I finished up installing the riser block on my powermatic bandsaw and after quite a bit of time getting everything tweaked and dialed for regular use with a standard blade.it seems great now but I want to address my fence situation before attempting resawing with my 3/8” woodslicer blade. What fences/styles of fences do you guys prefer for resawing. The one that came with the saw is quite short and so I’m thinking something that is tall but switchable to shorter for smaller pieces. I’m seeing aftermarket options from Kreg, Shopfox, Laguna, and MuleCab. They have a broad range of prices and that Laguna Driftmaster is like $400 so I just don’t know where to start or if you guys like the fences with the D-shaped bump in the center for guiding the wood on. And then to follow that, what kind of feather boards do you prefer, if at all, when resawing. So grateful for the time you spend on this podcast for our community, keep up the great work! Jonathan Scott Woodworks
2) My hobby has been transitioning lately toward commissions, and so I find myself consider things like time and cost more than when making gifts or just myself. (Good, you should be.)
I wonder how you make decisions about things like joinery (example, mortise and tenon vs a pocket screw, hand-cut vs. machine cut), materials, finish (shellac vs poly when you’re worried about the end user’s abuse) etc. Basically, what things do you consider when it is a piece for sale and what factors do you use when making those decisions?
When might you turn down a job? As a beginner in the commission market, should I take jobs that are good experience even if they aren’t technically a profit? I do have a day job that pays the bills.
Finally, do you ever consider it based on the tools you have? Would you ever make a purchase for a job and not consider it part of what the client pays for because it makes the job faster or easier down the line?
Thank you all for your input.
Peter Downing
Thursday Feb 28, 2019
Thursday Feb 28, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions
1) I've been enjoying the podcast and all the content you produce on your YouTube and Instagram accounts. I wanted to ask a question about plywood. I'm wondering what's the best way to make sure the that plywood is square before breaking it down to more manageable pieces for the table saw? I know you shouldn't really trust that the factory edges are square so I'm just a little confused on how you get the sheet square if you don't have a reliable edge to reference off. I don't have a track saw in my tool collection yet so I'm using a circular saw and a straight edge. I might be over thinking this and confusing myself but if you can provide some insight or a good way of accomplishing this task that would be awesome. Thanks for the great info you guys provide!
2) What's your favorite wood species to work with and why?
Seans Questions
1) Hey guys, podcast has been great but it feels like forever since there was a question about finishing :) My question is about what kinds of finishes you guys use on drawer boxes. Specifically, for something like a kitchen cabinet, a shop cabinet, and a drawer box in a furniture piece like a dresser or a nightstand. I know there are concerns about off-gassing of oil based finishes inside cabinets. Curious about what you recommend.
2) Give me a 101 level primer in getting started in spraying finishes. What type of machine should I buy and what kind of finishes/paint should I spray?
Huys Questions
1) Huy mentioned last week some tips regarding wood movement and the process of keeping a table top flat, and that the 2 most important aspects were to allow the wood to acclimate to your shop, and to properly mill the wood. I was wondering if you guys could speak a bit more to that.
For example, how long do you allow the wood to acclimate to your shop? And are there any tips you'd be willing to share, or give examples of your process in regards to milling? How long is it okay to wait after the first milling to take it down to final dimensions? My shop currently is a non-insulated detached garage outside Chicago, where weather/humidity can change rapidly from one day to the next.
I really value the work you guys do and the information you give out each episode. Thank you for getting right into the Q&A and mostly for taking the time to share your skills and knowledge with those of us still learning.
2) Question about workbench tops. I’m planning to build a workbench in the near future. I’ve seen plenty of dog holes and understand the basic pros and cons but I’m considering a t-track top. Your thoughts on this are appreciated.
Thursday Feb 14, 2019
Thursday Feb 14, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Hey guys. Love the pod! I have I think an easy question. This is my first project with hard woods other than poplar trimming. So here it goes...
I am making one of those balancing wine holders as a birthday gift but I want to dress it up a bit. I have a piece of hard maple. I want to frame the maple with a .5” -.75” strip of Purple Heart around it, mitered in the top corners. The overall dimensions will be about 15” x 5.5” My question is this. The top piece of Purple Heart would be running the grain perpendicular to the maple. Is this a bad idea? Should I cross cut that strip of PH so all the grain is running the length of the piece? -Jonvigorito
2) Thank you so much for putting out this podcast, it's made my boring commute to work a whole lot more enjoyable!
My question is, what are your thoughts on using the Metric system in your shop? As an American woodworker, I primarily use Imperial units for measuring, but have found it easier to switch to Metric for certain tasks like dividing a space by an odd number.
Thanks again,
Justin
Seans Questions:
1) Wondering what you guys recommend for a good doweling jig, that can do both wide and thin stock? Also your opinion on the Triton Dowel jointer. - Christopher
2) Hey guys just started listening to your show, I’m new to woodworking and every episode I’ve learned something new from you guys. Love the show. I’m starting to work with hardwoods for the first time, been wanting to make cutting boards, coasters, cigar ash trays etc. looking into Thin Kerf blades but don’t know much about them. So my first question is are they necessary, and secondly which ones do you suggest(more on the low end of price) I’ve looked at Freud 10” 24T Ripping Saw & Amana Tool Mamba Series MA10024 Thin Kerf Ripping 10-Inch x 24 Tooth. Thanks in advance - Tom(Tom_the_Builder_17 on ig)
Huys Questions:
1) Hey guys! I have a question regarding hand planes/Electric hand planes...
I am looking at buying an electric hand plane (likely the Triton 3 blade unlimited rebate planer) instead of a nice Veritas low angle plane. I don't finish with a card scraper or smoothing plane as I haven't had enough practice, yet I am very pleased with the results I get sanding. Am I crazy to think that an electric hand plane will do a great job at taking down high spots, to flatten a table top over a finely tuned hand plane? I'm finishing by sanding, so I don't need the plane to leave a glassy smooth surface. I need the high spots gone and gone quickly. I ask because I don't see many other woodworkers using this method, but in my mind it seems much more efficient (if finishing by sanding). I'd love to hear your response on the podcast. Nobile builds
2) Hey guys, I'm expanding my sharpening set up, and looking to add a grinder for initial squaring and hollow grinding. I am looking at cheap options and I'm torn between a slow speed 8 inch grinder, or the cheap wet grinder made by WEN. Do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Zacs wood studio
Thursday Jan 31, 2019
Thursday Jan 31, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Hey one of you guys said you wouldn’t buy a saw stop saw, that there are great saws for a lesser price. I also don’t fear cutting my hand as much as kickback. I was wondering what are some other saws on the market you would suggest over sawstop . -Christopher
2) Hey guys, I’m really enjoying the
podcast—very informative! I’m finally in a position to buy my first Festool tools, and I plan on buying the Domino, Track saw, and dust extractor. My question is: should I buy the TS 75 and the DF 700 (with the Seneca adapters for smaller cutters) or go with the smaller models? Currently, 95% of my work could be done with the smaller versions, but I can see needing the bigger versions in the future. I live in Portland Oregon and can throw a rock out my window and hit someone selling a slab. Also, I can see myself purchasing an MFT style table, and I’m not sure how well the 75 would work on it.
Thank you,
Ryans rough cut woodworking
Seans Questions:
1) Hey guys, I had another one for you. I heard in a previous episode about how you guys struggled to get your bandsaws working after the riser block was installed. That bummed me out 😅 because I’m planning to get one for my Powermatic PWBS-14CS. I got the saw and mobile base for $700 on Craigslist, it’s in perfect condition because the elderly man who bought it sadly passed away soon after. It’s got the Carter tension deal and killer guides, lots of cast iron...etc... my question was whether or not you feel like I’d get better results using the Powermatic riser block on a Powermatic bandsaw . I’m a luthier/aspiring woodworker and would love to be able to resaw smaller panels for guitar tops/backs/sides. I wouldn’t be asking too much of it in terms of huge boards run through it. I only foresee resawing 7”-9” wide boards for now and while I’d love to get Guy’s 15”, I wonder if the $120 for the riser could get me by for the next year or two until I could swing for something with greater HP -Jonathan
2) Hi Guys, the podcast is great and I'm loving the format of Q&A. I had two questions below for the podcast, keep up the good work!
1. How do you guys handle machine noise and neighbors? I'm currently in the process of building a shop and have neighbors pretty close on all 3 sides (15-20 ft away). I think my best option is to go with 2x8 plates with staggered stud wall with Rockwool weaved in-between the studs and 5/8" drywall. What other options do you guys use to reduce noise?
2. Dust collection in the floor? Yes or No. I was thinking maybe one 6" line coming where the table saw will be located and everything else located on the perimeter walls.
Thanks,
Jesse
Beechland Furniture
Huys Questions:
1) I'm looking to do my first dining table and set of chairs. I love mission style/arts and crafts furniture, and would like to design my own rendition in a similar style. My main questions are around proper chair and table proportions, expandable table hardware, keeping table tops flat, and how to create comfortable chairs.
Are there any great books or resources you would recommend? -Jake
2) Thanks for all of your insight into the world of woodworking. I’ve got a question regarding the differences between a 12” disc sander (Rikon 12 inch $299) and a oscillating edge/spindle sander (Rigid $249). What are the benefits of each? What do you guys prefer? It seems like the Rigid has more capability and is cheaper but am I missing something? Any other thoughts on them or similar machines?
Crwoodshop