Woodshop Life Podcast

Episode 18 - Table Saw Placement, Web Frames, Dye or Stain, and MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Hello Guy, Sean, and Huy - I am about to begin making two solid walnut dressers and I would love to hear your input on web frames. I’ve seen a few methods for attaching them to the casework, such as sliding dovetails, shallow dado grooves with the frames glued at the front of the case and floating in the back, and screws with elongated slots to allow for the casework to expand independently of the web frames. One of the dressers will have two columns of three drawers with a vertical center divider in the middle, and the other is five drawers high. Each case will be 18” deep with dovetails as the joinery. How would you guys go about attaching the web frames? Thank you for all of the invaluable work and education you continue to put into the woodworking community! Gregory Raiewski

2) What is the piece you've built that you are most proud of? Eric

Seans Questions: 

1) I’ve actually had several questions over the last few weeks but never got around to sending them. I’m wondering what your thoughts are on using 1 runner vs 2 on a table saw sled. Thanks, Brian

2) Can you talk about the potential disadvantages of putting the right side of your table saw up against a wall? I have a 52” sawstop and want to maximize shop space, as I work out of a 2 car garage that is about 500 square feet. - Ray

 

Huys Questions:

1) Absolutely love the podcast! Y’all have some great information and I’d like to thank you for taking time out of your lives to share your knowledge with others!
I had a question about how you go about choosing a finish for a piece you’re going to build. At what point do you figure out exactly what finish you’re going to use? A side question to this would be how would you know when to use a dye or pigment rather than a stain or a particular type of oil on that project? I have seemed to “struggle” in a sense on narrowing down exactly what route to take for a finish to give my builds the best finish for color and longevity. Just would like to hear what your input would be on this topic. Thank you again for the wonderful shop talk podcast. Keep up the great work!

Clean cut woodworking

2) Hey Guys, I’ve got a question for the podcast that I’ve never heard anyone address. Is it worth it to invest in high-dollar drill bits?

As a hobbyist on a tight budget, I generally get new bits at the box store, but sometimes I can look at them while they are spinning, and tell that they are not spinning straight. They seem to do the job, but I always wondered if having better bits (or possibly a better drill, I guess) is worth the money?

Thanks, and love the great show format.

Sincerely,

Scott A.
Jackson, TN

Our Instagram Picks

Sean: @Kyllesebree

Guy: @crosscutvintagedesigns

Huy: @w_squared2

Episode 17 - Dust Collection, Measuring Tools, Grizzly Jointers, and MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guy's Questions:

1) Hey guys, I hope all is well. When I was building my Roubo workbench I ran into a rust problem. I purchased kiln died lumber from a trusted source. I drilled a hole in some 4" thick walnut for my tail vise end cap. I inserted my bench crafted screw to check the fit and left it for a few days. When I removed the screw it had rusted. Any thoughts on why this happened? Should I paint the section of the screw that will remain in the endcap? JD Messick

2) What do you guys think are the essential measuring tools that any woodworker should start out with; ie combination squares, rulers, etc. and any brand recommendations you might have. Any input is appreciated. -Travis

Sean's Questions:

1) Gents, I'm torn at the moment as I am in the process outfitting my new 400sf stand-alone shop. Until recently, I've planned to install a 2 stage dust collection system with super dust deputy, externally venting fan and hard ducting with blast gates to each tool. I recently snagged up a used Festool domino ($675!) and ETC 125. I'm becoming a convert and seriously considering scrapping the dust collector plan and getting an Extractor to switch around as needed for each tool. What are your thoughts on going with 1 method over the other? I can't afford both at the moment. Which extractor would you recommend? Is it feasible to hook a single extractor to all my other non-Festool equipment? I'm assuming that a little adapter would be needed for each. Other tools in the shop include a table saw, bandsaw, disc, and spindle sanders, planer, jointer, etc. Cheers! Clayton

2) I am planning to build a bookshelf for my son that will be around 5.5 feet tall, 3 feet wide and around 15 inches deep. I am planning to use plywood with a solid wood face frame and have two sturdiness questions. First, what thickness should I use for the plywood? I've been planning on 3/4 but am not sure if that is overkill/too heavy or if it's what I should be using. Second, what are some suggestions for standing stability? It will be on carpet and I'm wondering if there are ways to stabilize it without attaching it to the wall. My son is one and grabs, pulls and climbs on everything so I want to make sure there is no way he can get it off balanced enough for it to come down. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice you have to offer!

Regards,
Alan Dills

Huy's Questions:

1) Hey guys, loving the podcast and listening to the back catalog. Topic for Huy, can you elaborate on the benefits, ease of use, and justification with your scope of work and the cost of the pantorouter? Do you think this is a tool where you will find a way to use it on nearly every project? That thing looks awesome! Thanks! Nutone woodworker

2) What’s up guys, I’m hoping by the end of the summer to have a much bigger shop space. First purchase I would like to make is a Jointer. Looking at the Grizzly 8” w/ a helical head. Any opinions on that specific one would be great, also open to suggestions on others. But my main question is, does a jointer replace a planer? Besides a planer being self-feeding, what are the actual differences? Thanks, guys look forward to the show every other week

Tom

Our Instagram Picks:

Sean: @justin_dipalma
Guy: @garagewoodworks
Huy: @ericreason

Episode 16 - Track Saws, Extension Wing Router Table, 3 Festool Picks, and MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) My question for the guys. With the internet providing information and inspiration for projects, do you still subscribe to woodworking magazines?
Eric (Poplar_shop)

2) Love the podcast guys. Got a question for the podcast. If you only get 3 Festool tools to that you could have in your shop what would they be? The domino can’t be included in your 3 tools. I have a track saw and looking into a sander possibly the rotex 125. I’m not sure I could justify the price of the kapex though I see you guys all have one.
Chris

 

Seans Questions:

1) This may be too basic to address on the shoe but you all talk of different benches. Assembly, work, and out-feed. I get what an out-feed bench is but what is the difference between work and assembly bench. Rick

2) Can you guys talk tack saws in a future episode? I’ve got some large panels to cut for a coffee bar i’m building and need some feedback on different brands. - W B Designs

 

Huys Questions:

1) I have a question about a stand-alone router table vs table saw extension wing router table. I’ve recently purchased a 3.25HP router and lift, and I’m now ready to build a dedicated router table. My workspace is a 20’x20’ garage that I share with the family van. Space is limited and everything has to be mobile. My vision has always been to add an extension wing router table to my cabinet saw. My recent concern is keeping the table flat over time. I’ll incorporate a torsion top, but I fear the saw will get too heavy to move around. Do you think I’ll have long term success with the extension wing or should go with a stand alone router table? I look forward to the input, keep up the good work!

Thanks

Jacob from North Carolina

2) Hi Guys, I love the show. I don’t have any woodworking buddies, so I love the Q&A format because you answer a lot of questions I have as a newish woodworker. I’ve been looking at building a new workbench and like any good woodworker, I’m doing too much research and not enough building. My question is about work holding. What types of vices do you guys prefer, why, what are the pros and cons. I was specifically debating between the Veritas twin screw or a Benchcrafted leg vice and could add a Moxon vice down the line if needed. Do you have any thoughts on either of these? I have a pretty small shop so I do mostly hand tool work since I don’t have much room for machines.
Thanks! Matt

 

Our Instagram picks:

Huy: @Mcintyrefurniture
Sean: @gregoryraiewski
Guy: @Woodreview

Episode 15 - Worst Shop Injury, Bandsaw Fences, Pre-Finishing, & MUCH more!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Worst injury you've suffered from the shop? -Eric

2) I’m fairly new to woodworking and need to upgrade my job site saw to a more robust table saw with good fence options. This is just a hobby so I won’t be running it 40hrs a week. The problem is that I don’t have 220v near the garage and future plans include relocating the workshop to the other side of the property so it would be a waste to pay an electrician to run a new 220 circuit to the garage. I’ve been looking at the Powermatic PM1000 or the Grizzly G0833P hybrid saw. Both can be wired for 110 and 220 and seem to have enough power for the type of woodworking I do. Bobby 

 

Seans Questions:

1) Hey guys! Love the podcast. If you’ve already addressed it please direct me to the episode, but otherwise, Pre-finish... I hear of/see people doing it but don’t understand. Do you pre-finish to get the colour you want, then finish for the durability and or level of gloss? And what combinations of products work? I wouldn’t have thought all products will adhere to an oil for instance. Cheers, Mark

2) Hey guys! The show is phenomenal and your content is inspiring. Do you ever follow up with past customers to see how your furniture pieces have aged? I'm always trying to learn new things and get better in the craft. A feedback loop or some kind of retrospective (Shawn, as a software guy you might appreciate that...) would help to get some insight on what design or construction choices worked well and what might need some tweaking. Maybe that's opening up pandora's box and is ill-advised, just curious as to your opinions. Firelight_1226

 

Huys Questions:

1) Okay, I’ve got another one for you three. I finished up installing the riser block on my powermatic bandsaw and after quite a bit of time getting everything tweaked and dialed for regular use with a standard blade.it seems great now but I want to address my fence situation before attempting resawing with my 3/8” woodslicer blade. What fences/styles of fences do you guys prefer for resawing. The one that came with the saw is quite short and so I’m thinking something that is tall but switchable to shorter for smaller pieces. I’m seeing aftermarket options from Kreg, Shopfox, Laguna, and MuleCab. They have a broad range of prices and that Laguna Driftmaster is like $400 so I just don’t know where to start or if you guys like the fences with the D-shaped bump in the center for guiding the wood on. And then to follow that, what kind of feather boards do you prefer, if at all, when resawing. So grateful for the time you spend on this podcast for our community, keep up the great work! Jonathan Scott Woodworks

2) My hobby has been transitioning lately toward commissions, and so I find myself consider things like time and cost more than when making gifts or just myself. (Good, you should be.)
I wonder how you make decisions about things like joinery (example, mortise and tenon vs a pocket screw, hand-cut vs. machine cut), materials, finish (shellac vs poly when you’re worried about the end user’s abuse) etc. Basically, what things do you consider when it is a piece for sale and what factors do you use when making those decisions?
When might you turn down a job? As a beginner in the commission market, should I take jobs that are good experience even if they aren’t technically a profit? I do have a day job that pays the bills.
Finally, do you ever consider it based on the tools you have? Would you ever make a purchase for a job and not consider it part of what the client pays for because it makes the job faster or easier down the line?
Thank you all for your input.
Peter Downing

Episode 14 - Breaking Down Plywood, Finishing Drawer Boxes, T-Track On Workbenches & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions

1) I've been enjoying the podcast and all the content you produce on your YouTube and Instagram accounts. I wanted to ask a question about plywood. I'm wondering what's the best way to make sure the that plywood is square before breaking it down to more manageable pieces for the table saw? I know you shouldn't really trust that the factory edges are square so I'm just a little confused on how you get the sheet square if you don't have a reliable edge to reference off. I don't have a track saw in my tool collection yet so I'm using a circular saw and a straight edge. I might be over thinking this and confusing myself but if you can provide some insight or a good way of accomplishing this task that would be awesome. Thanks for the great info you guys provide!

2) What's your favorite wood species to work with and why?

Seans Questions

1) Hey guys, podcast has been great but it feels like forever since there was a question about finishing :) My question is about what kinds of finishes you guys use on drawer boxes. Specifically, for something like a kitchen cabinet, a shop cabinet, and a drawer box in a furniture piece like a dresser or a nightstand. I know there are concerns about off-gassing of oil based finishes inside cabinets. Curious about what you recommend.

2) Give me a 101 level primer in getting started in spraying finishes. What type of machine should I buy and what kind of finishes/paint should I spray?

Huys Questions

1) Huy mentioned last week some tips regarding wood movement and the process of keeping a table top flat, and that the 2 most important aspects were to allow the wood to acclimate to your shop, and to properly mill the wood. I was wondering if you guys could speak a bit more to that.
For example, how long do you allow the wood to acclimate to your shop? And are there any tips you'd be willing to share, or give examples of your process in regards to milling? How long is it okay to wait after the first milling to take it down to final dimensions? My shop currently is a non-insulated detached garage outside Chicago, where weather/humidity can change rapidly from one day to the next.

I really value the work you guys do and the information you give out each episode. Thank you for getting right into the Q&A and mostly for taking the time to share your skills and knowledge with those of us still learning.

2) Question about workbench tops. I’m planning to build a workbench in the near future. I’ve seen plenty of dog holes and understand the basic pros and cons but I’m considering a t-track top. Your thoughts on this are appreciated. 

Episode 13 - Doweling Jigs, Grain Orientation, Grinders & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Hey guys. Love the pod! I have I think an easy question. This is my first project with hard woods other than poplar trimming. So here it goes...

I am making one of those balancing wine holders as a birthday gift but I want to dress it up a bit. I have a piece of hard maple. I want to frame the maple with a .5” -.75” strip of Purple Heart around it, mitered in the top corners. The overall dimensions will be about 15” x 5.5” My question is this. The top piece of Purple Heart would be running the grain perpendicular to the maple. Is this a bad idea? Should I cross cut that strip of PH so all the grain is running the length of the piece? -Jonvigorito

2) Thank you so much for putting out this podcast, it's made my boring commute to work a whole lot more enjoyable!

My question is, what are your thoughts on using the Metric system in your shop? As an American woodworker, I primarily use Imperial units for measuring, but have found it easier to switch to Metric for certain tasks like dividing a space by an odd number.

Thanks again,
Justin

 

Seans Questions:

1) Wondering what you guys recommend for a good doweling jig, that can do both wide and thin stock? Also your opinion on the Triton Dowel jointer. - Christopher

2) Hey guys just started listening to your show, I’m new to woodworking and every episode I’ve learned something new from you guys. Love the show. I’m starting to work with hardwoods for the first time, been wanting to make cutting boards, coasters, cigar ash trays etc. looking into Thin Kerf blades but don’t know much about them. So my first question is are they necessary, and secondly which ones do you suggest(more on the low end of price) I’ve looked at Freud 10” 24T Ripping Saw & Amana Tool Mamba Series MA10024 Thin Kerf Ripping 10-Inch x 24 Tooth. Thanks in advance - Tom(Tom_the_Builder_17 on ig) 

 

Huys Questions:

1) Hey guys! I have a question regarding hand planes/Electric hand planes...

I am looking at buying an electric hand plane (likely the Triton 3 blade unlimited rebate planer) instead of a nice Veritas low angle plane. I don't finish with a card scraper or smoothing plane as I haven't had enough practice, yet I am very pleased with the results I get sanding. Am I crazy to think that an electric hand plane will do a great job at taking down high spots, to flatten a table top over a finely tuned hand plane? I'm finishing by sanding, so I don't need the plane to leave a glassy smooth surface. I need the high spots gone and gone quickly. I ask because I don't see many other woodworkers using this method, but in my mind it seems much more efficient (if finishing by sanding). I'd love to hear your response on the podcast. Nobile builds

2) Hey guys, I'm expanding my sharpening set up, and looking to add a grinder for initial squaring and hollow grinding. I am looking at cheap options and I'm torn between a slow speed 8 inch grinder, or the cheap wet grinder made by WEN. Do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Zacs wood studio

Episode 12 - SawStop feedback, Riser Blocks, Designing Chairs & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Hey one of you guys said you wouldn’t buy a saw stop saw, that there are great saws for a lesser price. I also don’t fear cutting my hand as much as kickback. I was wondering what are some other saws on the market you would suggest over sawstop . -Christopher

2) Hey guys, I’m really enjoying the
podcast—very informative! I’m finally in a position to buy my first Festool tools, and I plan on buying the Domino, Track saw, and dust extractor. My question is: should I buy the TS 75 and the DF 700 (with the Seneca adapters for smaller cutters) or go with the smaller models? Currently, 95% of my work could be done with the smaller versions, but I can see needing the bigger versions in the future. I live in Portland Oregon and can throw a rock out my window and hit someone selling a slab. Also, I can see myself purchasing an MFT style table, and I’m not sure how well the 75 would work on it.

Thank you,
Ryans rough cut woodworking

 

Seans Questions:

1) Hey guys, I had another one for you. I heard in a previous episode about how you guys struggled to get your bandsaws working after the riser block was installed. That bummed me out 😅 because I’m planning to get one for my Powermatic PWBS-14CS. I got the saw and mobile base for $700 on Craigslist, it’s in perfect condition because the elderly man who bought it sadly passed away soon after. It’s got the Carter tension deal and killer guides, lots of cast iron...etc... my question was whether or not you feel like I’d get better results using the Powermatic riser block on a Powermatic bandsaw . I’m a luthier/aspiring woodworker and would love to be able to resaw smaller panels for guitar tops/backs/sides. I wouldn’t be asking too much of it in terms of huge boards run through it. I only foresee resawing 7”-9” wide boards for now and while I’d love to get Guy’s 15”, I wonder if the $120 for the riser could get me by for the next year or two until I could swing for something with greater HP -Jonathan

2) Hi Guys, the podcast is great and I'm loving the format of Q&A. I had two questions below for the podcast, keep up the good work!

1. How do you guys handle machine noise and neighbors? I'm currently in the process of building a shop and have neighbors pretty close on all 3 sides (15-20 ft away). I think my best option is to go with 2x8 plates with staggered stud wall with Rockwool weaved in-between the studs and 5/8" drywall. What other options do you guys use to reduce noise?

2. Dust collection in the floor? Yes or No. I was thinking maybe one 6" line coming where the table saw will be located and everything else located on the perimeter walls.

Thanks,
Jesse
Beechland Furniture

 

Huys Questions:

1) I'm looking to do my first dining table and set of chairs. I love mission style/arts and crafts furniture, and would like to design my own rendition in a similar style. My main questions are around proper chair and table proportions, expandable table hardware, keeping table tops flat, and how to create comfortable chairs.

Are there any great books or resources you would recommend? -Jake

2) Thanks for all of your insight into the world of woodworking. I’ve got a question regarding the differences between a 12” disc sander (Rikon 12 inch $299) and a oscillating edge/spindle sander (Rigid $249). What are the benefits of each? What do you guys prefer? It seems like the Rigid has more capability and is cheaper but am I missing something? Any other thoughts on them or similar machines?

Crwoodshop

 

Episode 11 - Rabbet Block Planes, Orbital Sanders, Tool Cabinets & MUCH More!

Guys Questions:

1) Loving the podcast gentlemen, listened to all 10 episodes in the last 2 days. Now for my question:

I know all three of you do a lot of your sanding using the drum sander, but for us without the room for one what is your recommend sanding procedure. Hand sand vs. random orbital sander? Grit progression? ROS preference? Just give me all that great knowledge you have!!

Thanks again guy! -Project Build stuff - Brad

2) I'm in the market for a router table and lift. All of the router lifts appear to be more or less the same, many being produced by Jessem. Router compatibility isn't a concern, as I'll mount the ubiquitous PC 7518. Can you talk about the Kreg PRS5000 and how it compares to the Jessem (and thus Incra) lifts, woodpeckers PRL-V2, etc? I haven't found much info out there. They all seem to feature above-table bit changes, micro adjustment, etc. Is there any actual difference between all these, or should I just pick my favorite color? Thanks! - Kevin

 

Seans Questions:

1) Hey guys, I'm really enjoying the podcast. I have a question for you. When starting woodworking a block plane always seems to be high on the list for "must have tools". I purchase one and agree it is extremely usefully. However several times I'm need the rabbet block plane instead. I know I loose that function with a standard block plane but If I had purchased the rabbet block plane instead what functionality would I have sacrificed? Keep the saw dust flying. Josh

2) What concerns should I have with my jointer and planer being at my father in-law's shop; due to spacing and budget. Should I mill it and let it acclimate there or bring it back to my shop to let it acclimate? Could I get by with hand tools at my shop if there's any additional movement after acclimating at his shop?

I should add that our planer is a DW735, so that is portable between the shops. Also, I use kiln dried lumber and my shop isn't yet heated but his is and more climate controlled.
-Nik

 

Huys Questions:

1) Alright my question is all about hand tool cabinets/hand tool walls. What are your most reached for items? What were the thoughts on tool placement and ergonomics when you built yours? Have you had to rebuild upon acquiring new tools or remodel to accommodate shifts in your preferences?

To be clear I’m not looking for the “these are the top five tools to get first when on a budget” kind of thing when I ask about most reached for. I’m trying to plan ahead and build something a bit “future proof” with the ability to expand as I acquire new tools. So don’t feel bad talking about “x” high-end thing that you love and reach for often. I’m excited to hear about what those items are, regardless of price point. Because that will be something I can weigh in on whether or not it’s a tool I could see myself getting down the road and would consider saving some space for. Love the show, keep up the great work! -Jonathan Scott woodworks

2) Very much enjoying your podcast and it’s focus on woodworking questions and techniques. I’m in the process of building and designing a new workbench for my shop. I have the Rockler quick release face vise but I can’t seem to find a solid answer as to how to install it. Should the inner face of the vise be flush with the workbench top, or should I install it so that the inner face is a separate piece from the workbench top? Curious as to your opinions on this matter. - Dustin

Episode 10 - Bandsaw Mistakes, Combination Machines, Dust Collection and More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

 

Guy's Questions:

1) Here’s a question for you. I need create a buildup for a mantle top. Will be painted finish. 6’ wide x 10” deep x 1-1/4” thick. I was going to glue up a piece of 3/4” maple ply and 1/2” mdf. Then will edge band with 3/4” thick soft maple. Do you guys think I will have issues with the top due to gluing to dissimilar materials? Thanks!!! Alan

2) I have listened to every episode so far and love them all. I would to hear your guys setups for your sprayers. I am trying to decide if it makes more sense to buy a large 60 gallon plus compressor to run hvlp guns off or to buy a stand alone unit like a earlex or Fuji. It will be used for a little bit of everything. The wife likes some stuff painted but I get away with just shellac from time to time as well - Kyle

 Sean's Questions:

1) Good evening, Sean! I know you guys are getting a ton of questions for the podcast, but I wanted to add one more. I've been eyeballing the jointer/planer combo machines and was curious on yours, Huys, and Guys opinions on them. - W.B. Designs

2) Question for you guys: I am making a coffee table that will essentially be a square box (36”Lx36”Wx17”H, 3/4” stock)with an opening lid on top. The client (my wife) wants beveled / mitered corners. My question is what is your preferred method for cutting the 45? Table saw, router table, track saw? I just made a small box using the table saw with a digital angle finder and checked with a square to ensure 45. It came out close but still seems a few thousands off. Maybe I’m expecting to much? This seems so simple yet it is hard to achieve. - Circle City Woodworking

 

Huy's Questions:

1) Love the podcast guys. I was someone who made a living at woodworking back in the day but am back to working out of my garage where I started 30 years ago. Having said that, what advice can you give about dust collection, given the garage shop environment is so confined. I’ve got at Jet 2 micron collector but am looking to get something specifically for the chop saw station. Thanks for your input and sorry for the long question

- Mike

 2) As a follow up to my bandsaw blade question: I made a lazy mistake on a set of boxes this past weekend. The boxes are mitered corners, with top and bottom panels captured in respective grooves. I glued up the boxes and was set to cut off the lids. Didn't change out the 3/16" 10 TPI blade in the bandsaw. The 5" height on the zebrawood box had the blade wandering off the line at the beginning of the cut. So I have an unintentionally curvy intersection between lid and box. (continued...)

I flattened the bottom of the lid with my drum sander. But the box portion is too tall to pass through the drum sander. How do I flatten the top of the box? Light pass through table saw (it would have to be two cuts)? Change the blade on the bandsaw and take a light pass there? I can't imagine the planer is a great idea because I'd expect tear out on the backside. Or would it work with super light passes? What would you guys do? Sunrise Woodshop

 

Episode 9 - Table Saw Recommendations, Blade Sharpening, Buying Lumber & Much More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Have you guys ever done a traditional French polish and if so how did you do it. Thanks and I love the podcast. Kyle

2) Gentleman, thank you for answering my question in Episode 7. Ive got a new question for you. Blade Cleaning versus Blade Sharpening. We all know it’s a good practice the clean blades regularly and personally I go with some warm water and simple green, it’s worked great for me. My question is, what are the signs I should look for when I’m beyond this simple solution and it’s time to get my blades sharpened. Thanks and keep up the good work! Hubbell Woodshop

 

Seans Questions:

1) Hey guys, wondering if you can recommend a table saw for me outside of a larger cabinet saw. Space is limited for me and being able to move it around my workshop is key. I own a track saw for breaking down sheet goods, but am lacking a saw to rip thinner pieces consistently. I’d like something with a good fence and miter slots to use some jigs I will make. Thanks for any help you may have! - RJ

Link Sean Mentioned: https://www.toolboxbuzz.com/head-to-head/best-portable-jobsite-table-saw-head-to-head/

2) Who came first, chicken/egg? So in your wood shop what comes first, jointing/planing? And what’s your process? Winter Wolf Woodworking

 

Huys Questions:

1) Got another question: When planning a project what factors do you consider when deciding between ordering thicker stock 8/4 (or thicker) or laminating thinner stock to thickness? It hard to find 8/4 white oak in my area even though 4/4 is plentiful. Are there any rules of thumb that say never laminate x parts? When is it not ok to laminate?
Josh

2) What bandsaw blades are you guys running for "everyday" use? I've mainly used timberwolf blades. 3/4" 3 TPI for resaw, 1/4" 6 TPI for general purpose, 3/16" 10 TPI for fine work. Not surprisingly, I hate changing blades. Wondering if I could at least get away with a decent compromise between resaw and "general purpose". Sunrise woodshop