Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking
Episodes
Thursday Jul 18, 2019
Thursday Jul 18, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Hi guys love the show. I have a question about finishes. My generation (millennial) is into natural products. So I would like to have most and if not all my products that I have lined up ready to be finished to be natural. I've thought about shellac but for the projects that will be around alcohol, shellac is basically out of the picture. But I was wondering if I could put wax over it and that would help with the sealing or if I have to try something else? If I have to try something else what would you suggest that's a natural sealer? Some of my projects include a tabletop and beer caddy. Have you ever heard of the safe coat as a sealer? -Paige
2) Absolutely love the podcast guys, keeps my long drives to and from work educational and also tolerable.
I know finishing has been covered a lot, but I can’t recall if the technique was ever covered. And also technique specific to the type of finish. I would love to spray everything, but as my shop is also my garage that isn’t always an option. What have you found easiest for applying different finishes? Natural bristle brushes, synthetic/polyester bristle brushes, foam brushes, plain old wiping on with an old t-shirt, spit shine, etc....I’ve also noticed I’m finding myself putting 2-3 coats on and then sanding back a coat instead of doing the light sanding with every single coat. Seems to work, but am I just wasting finish due to impatience? And Guy always talks about his famous BLO, poly, naphtha wipe-on varnish. I’d love to try that, how is it mixed and what is the amount of each product in the final mixture?
Finishing never ends and I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Joey from Winter Wolf Woodworking
Seans Questions:
1) I'm in the market for my first Jointer. As usual, not a lot of money to spend. I am looking for a used Jointer and would like to know what I should be looking for, what I should avoid, and how to prioritize this list. The price range is up to $400. My project focus is furniture and jewelry box making. I have a small shop, under 200 sqft. Love your podcast and really appreciate all the information and tips you guys share. Thomas
2) I know this may be a bit of a loaded question as there are so many variables to consider but with the audience that is to be considered. I know what my particular practices are and they haven’t failed me yet. I believe it may be a good one for some of the “newer” woodworkers out there would really benefit from hearing it from some highly experienced makers as yourselves.
Hi fellows... I would normally say guys but well... we all know theirs only one Guy here. I wanted to know about glueing up a panel from several boards. When gluing up a panel at what point would you consider using something such as a dowel or a domino to keep the boards aligned? Is there a certain thickness, length, or even width that you’d feel that there would be a need for adding this type of structural support to the glue-up. I know that they help out a ton with alignment but I’d like to know what your thoughts are on this subject.
Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!
Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Huys Questions:
1) I’m in the process of revamping and improving my shop, and the next step is dust collection. I have a 1.5 hp Shop Fox dust collector moving 1280 cfm of air. My problem is always with the friction loss in the flexible hoses. I plan to install 6” pvc on the wall and snub shorter flexible sections to some of the bigger tools. My question is regarding the split offs. Are the stop gates enough to single out air flow to certain machines? And what is the best way to reduce this down to a hose for handheld power tools?
2) I would like to purchase a new dado stack. I have an old Craftsman set that is steel - not carbide tipped. What do you guys use? Can you recommend a brand that works for you?
Social Picks
Guys: @bearkatwood
Seans: @duncangowdy
Huys: @louis_fry_furniture
Thursday Jul 04, 2019
Thursday Jul 04, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Hey Guys, a question on when a breadboard end is needed on a table top. I'm making my first kitchen table with a 5/4 35” x 8’ oak top. My client didn’t like the look of a breadboard end so I’m a bit concerned about movement down the road. The top won’t overhang the aprons by more than 4” and I’m planning to connect it with those z clips with a couple of cross pieces to keep it rigid. Do you think I run a risk of cupping? I’ve thought about getting some of those c-channel iron to route into the underside but is that overkill?
Homarus woodworks
2) Hi guys, love the show. I have a would you rather question on finishing. Would you rather finish a whole large project or try and match a finish for a smaller project. My specific scenario is refinishing my basement bar. I’m going with dark cabinets and I know I’m going to have to make shelves and trim to match. Do I get unfinished cabinets and finish it all myself so they’re the same, or try and match prefinished cabinets? Thanks! Matt
Seans Questions:
1) Hi, I have a question for the podcast. I am about to start drawers for my dresser build and the sides call for 1/2" material. Would you use 4/4 material making a lot of waste or would you go to a thicker material and resaw for the 1/2" final dimensions hoping to cut down on waste? Would the type of wood you are using sway your decision as wood stability may cause the wood to cup/bow more than others? Thanks, Ryan.
2) Is there a special technique for sanding round overs? I've tried sanding round overs by hand, but end up with scratch marks long the "top" of the piece. When I try sanding with a random orbit sander, I feel like it eats away too much wood and it's not a consistent round over anymore. Thoughts? Matt
Huys Questions:
1) I’m wanting to make a cross-cut sled for trimming the ends on boards that I’ve glued up. I want the cross-cut sled to have the most capacity that it can. So, I’m probably going to end up building something like Huy’s “Aircraft carrier”.
Any tips on making that thing as accurate as it can possibly be? Is there anything you’d do differently if you had to remake it?
Y’all are great! Keep the podcasts coming!!
Cory
2) My question for all of you is about ordering lumber and sheet goods online versus buying in person and being able to pick through and select boards.
Do you have experience ordering large quantities of sheet goods online? What about hardwoods? What do I need to know before placing an order for things like this?
Any tips for ensuring I receive quality plywood for cabinets? I’m relatively new to woodworking so any technical advice or terminology to use would be greatly appreciated. I know higher quality plywood typically has more plies, but I’m not sure how to even specify this or tell how many plies the sheets for sale online have.
Could you recommend any sources for ordering online? I’m located in the Tampa, Florida area.
I am tired of imposing on friends and family to borrow a pickup truck to pick up all the sheet goods I need and I don’t mind paying for the convenience of truck delivery if it’s an option worth considering. However, I do not want to waste money if I’m going to get all the crappy sheets that they can’t sell in person because they are all busted and warped with gaps in the laminations.
Thank you all for putting out such quality and informative podcast. I’ve enjoyed every episode so far.-Hunter
Our Social Picks
Guy: @tomfoolerywood
Sean: @mhwoodworker
Thursday Jun 20, 2019
Thursday Jun 20, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Hey guys keep up the good work on the podcast. My question is regarding grain fillers. Have you ever used these on open grain species such as oak to get a smooth finish? I have an oak bar table I’m in the process of making and was contemplating using this after a waterbased dye and before a finish coat of waterlox.
Thanks, Jesse
2) I find the vacuum bag to be more than just a clamp for veneer. I want one and would like to know what I should be looking for when considering a purchase. -sergeantmaker
Seans Questions:
1) How much scrap is too much? I like to hold onto smaller pieces I can make into wedges, bow ties, etc....but when is enough truly enough? Are there certain pieces you’ll keep, more rare species of wood? Or is it straight to the kindling pile? Winter wolf woodworking
2) Good morning Guy, Huy, and Sean. I had a question on tool brands. I get asked all the time from my peers in the community what brand of tool is better than another. My general answer to all of them is usually the same every time. Within the budget you’re looking to spend there are usually a few different brands. Within those price points, all of these tools are going to perform basically at the same level and have the same features. The best thing you can do is go put your hands on it, feel the tool, see how it works and if it’s a good fit for you. My question to you all is when you are looking for a new tool no matter hand tool or power tool is a particular brand one of the first things you look for or do you go after that budget point versus quality and functionality? Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops!
Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking
Huys Questions:
1) I have a couple questions about lumber storage. This would be for dried lumber. Do you store it horizontally with stickers, horizontal without stickers, or can you store it vertical? For longer lumber, it may be more efficient to store it vertically. What do you guys do? David
2) I was wondering if any of you use specialty chisels in your work. Fishtail or skew chisels for example. Do you have multiple sets? Mortise, dovetail, paring, etc. Keep up the good work. Joshua Messick
Our Social Media Picks:
Guy: @nickjamesdesign
Sean: @jonathanscott_woodcrafts
Huy: @alcornwoodworking
Thursday Jun 06, 2019
Thursday Jun 06, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) I’m interested to know, before youtube and Instagram, who inspired you? -ralphbrackney
2) Is there any issue with the combo machines having a shorter bed length for the planer aspect? - Brent
Seans Questions:
1) What is your biggest screw up/mistake on a project and what did you do to fix, cover up or a notable screw up with a clever fix. Not the worst but you got creative with the fix.
-R2 Woodworking.
2) I just wanted to say thank you guys for sharing your wealth of knowledge on the subject of woodworking. I work as a law enforcement officer and listening to your podcasts on my way home from work help me not only unwind but expand my understanding of the craft.
I am a hobbyist who is just getting into woodworking and was curious if you guys could point me in the right direction of specific written literature so I can really nail down the basics before moving on to more complex tasks.
Thanks again,
Luke
Huys Questions:
1)Regarding thin kerf blades - seems like you guys didn't like them? I bought a "Freud" thin kerf ripping blade for my underpowered Delta from Lowes. That Freud thin kerf completed changed my saw for the better. Huge difference. Anyway were you guys worried about flex or something with the thin kerf? I didn't understand. - JJ
2) Years ago, before I really got into woodworking, I painted some cheap 1/4” plywood for a project. I only painted one side and over (very little) time the pieces curled up like taco shells. Since then, I have always finished both sides of the plywood. I am currently making a shelving unit that will be wedged into a corner. I am using 3/4” blondewood ply from the big box stores. The backside of the shelving unit will never be seen. On plywood this thick, do I still need to keep painting both sides? If so, does it need an equal number of coats on both sides? - Hunter Robinson
Books mentioned:
The Why and How of Woodworking
The Complete Illustrated Guide To Joinery
Our Social Media Picks:
Guy: @tim_noone_furnituredesign
Sean: @haltaylor_rocks
Huy: @bbumslife
Thursday May 23, 2019
Thursday May 23, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) A follow-up question that may get Guy going:
I’m currently upgrading my 3hp sawstop pcs 52 inch because I’m moving states and gifting it to my father.
Originally, my thoughts were to go right to the 5HP Sawstop ICS without much consideration for other saws. I do like the safety feature just as an insurance Policy because you never know - we all do stupid things from time to time. Can you speak on times where the sawstop does not operate as intended and fails to save the injury and other saws that may be better but do not include the technology? I am typically pretty careful.
-Ray
2) I emailed a little while ago to ask about MFT tops and all I have found premade so far are MDF tops for the MFT. BUT I found these tops and benches by Armor tools. https://armor-tool.com/products/woodworking/workstations/benches/
It is a butcher block top and has 3/4 inch holes. I do use Festool sanders, a router, and track saw but is there any reason that using a 3/4 inch dog hole top would be inferior to the 20mm top Festool uses? I know the Festool dog hole devices will not work but there are lots of 3/4 inch accessories. If the dog holes are aligned correctly I can bump the Festool track against the dogs to line up cuts. Am I missing a downside?
The armor tool top is $200-250 but seems more sturdy than the MDF.
Lamar
Sean's Questions:
1) Hey guys. Love the podcast as always. Please keep it up! I have a quick question about finishing. I know you covered this topic but I’m curious about protection from water marks.
I had a client recently that wanted a long desk for her children out of walnut. I explained that water in wood or wood finish is never a good idea. (Leaving standing water, cups rings, etc) is there a finish out there( besides epoxy) that will withstand this water. I am also wondering about hot items. I’ve noticed some finishes(lacquer) will leave a ring if you put a hot cup on it. Are there finishes that won’t fail with either of these issues? Thanks so much.
Ryan Wilging
2) Hey guys,
Love the show, definitely one of the best Woodworking podcasts out there.
I’m going to build a 2 car garage (approx. 24’x30’) for use as my new shop. I’m a hobbyist woodworker, mostly a couple of hours here and there nights and weekends. If you were building a new shop from the ground up, what features and considerations would you recommend?
Thanks, Ron
Huys Questions:
1) My question is regarding Baileigh Industrial tools. I currently own an 8" Baileigh jointer (IJ-875) and really like it. I've been contemplating purchasing a free standing router table and possibly a cyclone style dust collector. My current shop is outfitted nicely with good tools i.e. Powermatic planer, drum sander and mortiser, Sawstop TS, Laguna bandsaw, etc but I'm wondering if any of you have experience with Baileigh and what your opinion is of them. I find their prices are slightly less than say Powermatic and other top brands so it makes sense to consider them only if they're a trusted brand. I don't see or hear much about them and all I have to go on is the jointer I have. I will say their manuals leave a lot to be desired. Thanks for any input! Michael
2) Huy, how is the baby? My wife and I had our first not long after you, he is a 4-month-old little boy now - The work life/home life balance came relatively easy, but I’m having trouble adding in shop time especially during the week - if I only have between 5 and 9 with the family how do I justify spending a quarter of that time fooling around in the shop? Or am I now destined to be a weekend warrior? Oh, actual question, how is Huy handling it? Matterhorn woodworks
Our Social Picks:
Sean: @CTFineFurniture
Guy: @prusawoodworks
Huy: Kevin0611
Thursday May 09, 2019
Thursday May 09, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) What's your least favorite wood species to work with and why? Eric
2) Thank you for all the great content and for coming together to create this podcast. I've learned a lot from all three of you over the last few years. Here's my question:
I live near the coast in North Florida which is a very warm and humid climate. Huy, I know you live in Alabama, so maybe you can relate to this. My shop is climate controlled in that it has central A/C, but it's an old building and the humidity level varies greatly throughout the year. I don't have local access to a lot of hardwood lumber, but what I can get is typically kiln dried and stored in non climate controlled environments before I get my hands on it. It seems like invariably the lumber I get warps in some way, almost regardless of how long I let it sit before milling it and the moves again after I mill it. I know this is common, but I think the amount of movement I'm seeing is not what you'd see in a climate with more moderate humidity, but maybe I'm wrong. The exception to this is a batch of air dried cherry that I picked up from someone that had been drying for about 20 years. Given that I don't want to wait 20 years before starting each project, is there anything I can do to reduce the amount of movement I'm seeing in my lumber and can you talk a little bit about techniques you might employ if the wood does move so that it's not just all wasted. For example; alternating cups and bows when gluing a panel together so that they kind of cancel each other out.
Thanks again for your willingness to share your experiences with the community.
Dave
Seans Questions:
1) Seeing other woodworkers invest into the community is awesome, I appreciate that you guys are doing your part to keep our craft alive.
I have a question for you guys.
I have found in many cases its easier to break out a hand tool, than to set up an operation using power tools. In what cases will you choose a hand tool over a power tool, and why? Would love to hear your thoughts on this.
regards,
Mike Miller
MillerWoodcraft
2) My wife and I recently bought our first house and are looking to freshen up the kitchen. Looking to do a painted finish but I am trying to weigh the pros and cons of refinishing what we have or purchasing new cabinets. The current cabinets are solid oak boxes with MDF doors with veneered front, original to the house. Originally I was going to build new shaker style doors and then paint everything to match. However, after doing some test doors on the router table with tongue and groove bit, I am not feeling so confident(novice woodworker) with that and also the amount of work involved to remove the finish and repaint all the boxes as well. Given all that, it seems easier or more cost and time effective to buy new cabinets that I can finish myself or possibly pre-finished in the color we want. Any insight or advice you guys could provide would be very beneficial. Thank you in advance and absolutely love the podcast! Andy
Huys Questions:
1) Question - I have a Delta 28-243 14" bandsaw with a riser block kit that I've been slowly upgrading. I've put new wheel bearings and urethane tires on. Next step I'm thinking about is ordering the Carter wheel guides instead of using cooling blocks. They are spendy, so do you think it's worth the upgrade? Thanks, love the show!
-Larry
2) Hey gents, love the podcast here is a question/show topic for you. What are your top 5 productivity techniques when building furniture? I'm sure there a ton of juicy nuggets in there that can help a ton of people including myself. I'm running a furniture business on the side and I'm trying to get faster while increasing/maintaining my quality. Thanks guys, Brad
Our Social Picks:
Sean YouTube pick: Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration
Huy: @willowswoodworks
Guy: @tektonguild
Thursday Apr 25, 2019
Thursday Apr 25, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Hello Guy, Sean, and Huy - I am about to begin making two solid walnut dressers and I would love to hear your input on web frames. I’ve seen a few methods for attaching them to the casework, such as sliding dovetails, shallow dado grooves with the frames glued at the front of the case and floating in the back, and screws with elongated slots to allow for the casework to expand independently of the web frames. One of the dressers will have two columns of three drawers with a vertical center divider in the middle, and the other is five drawers high. Each case will be 18” deep with dovetails as the joinery. How would you guys go about attaching the web frames? Thank you for all of the invaluable work and education you continue to put into the woodworking community! Gregory Raiewski
2) What is the piece you've built that you are most proud of? Eric
Seans Questions:
1) I’ve actually had several questions over the last few weeks but never got around to sending them. I’m wondering what your thoughts are on using 1 runner vs 2 on a table saw sled. Thanks, Brian
2) Can you talk about the potential disadvantages of putting the right side of your table saw up against a wall? I have a 52” sawstop and want to maximize shop space, as I work out of a 2 car garage that is about 500 square feet. - Ray
Huys Questions:
1) Absolutely love the podcast! Y’all have some great information and I’d like to thank you for taking time out of your lives to share your knowledge with others!
I had a question about how you go about choosing a finish for a piece you’re going to build. At what point do you figure out exactly what finish you’re going to use? A side question to this would be how would you know when to use a dye or pigment rather than a stain or a particular type of oil on that project? I have seemed to “struggle” in a sense on narrowing down exactly what route to take for a finish to give my builds the best finish for color and longevity. Just would like to hear what your input would be on this topic. Thank you again for the wonderful shop talk podcast. Keep up the great work!
Clean cut woodworking
2) Hey Guys, I’ve got a question for the podcast that I’ve never heard anyone address. Is it worth it to invest in high-dollar drill bits?
As a hobbyist on a tight budget, I generally get new bits at the box store, but sometimes I can look at them while they are spinning, and tell that they are not spinning straight. They seem to do the job, but I always wondered if having better bits (or possibly a better drill, I guess) is worth the money?
Thanks, and love the great show format.
Sincerely,
Scott A.
Jackson, TN
Our Instagram Picks
Sean: @Kyllesebree
Huy: @w_squared2
Thursday Apr 11, 2019
Thursday Apr 11, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy's Questions:
1) Hey guys, I hope all is well. When I was building my Roubo workbench I ran into a rust problem. I purchased kiln died lumber from a trusted source. I drilled a hole in some 4" thick walnut for my tail vise end cap. I inserted my bench crafted screw to check the fit and left it for a few days. When I removed the screw it had rusted. Any thoughts on why this happened? Should I paint the section of the screw that will remain in the endcap? JD Messick
2) What do you guys think are the essential measuring tools that any woodworker should start out with; ie combination squares, rulers, etc. and any brand recommendations you might have. Any input is appreciated. -Travis
Sean's Questions:
1) Gents, I'm torn at the moment as I am in the process outfitting my new 400sf stand-alone shop. Until recently, I've planned to install a 2 stage dust collection system with super dust deputy, externally venting fan and hard ducting with blast gates to each tool. I recently snagged up a used Festool domino ($675!) and ETC 125. I'm becoming a convert and seriously considering scrapping the dust collector plan and getting an Extractor to switch around as needed for each tool. What are your thoughts on going with 1 method over the other? I can't afford both at the moment. Which extractor would you recommend? Is it feasible to hook a single extractor to all my other non-Festool equipment? I'm assuming that a little adapter would be needed for each. Other tools in the shop include a table saw, bandsaw, disc, and spindle sanders, planer, jointer, etc. Cheers! Clayton
2) I am planning to build a bookshelf for my son that will be around 5.5 feet tall, 3 feet wide and around 15 inches deep. I am planning to use plywood with a solid wood face frame and have two sturdiness questions. First, what thickness should I use for the plywood? I've been planning on 3/4 but am not sure if that is overkill/too heavy or if it's what I should be using. Second, what are some suggestions for standing stability? It will be on carpet and I'm wondering if there are ways to stabilize it without attaching it to the wall. My son is one and grabs, pulls and climbs on everything so I want to make sure there is no way he can get it off balanced enough for it to come down. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice you have to offer!
Regards,
Alan Dills
Huy's Questions:
1) Hey guys, loving the podcast and listening to the back catalog. Topic for Huy, can you elaborate on the benefits, ease of use, and justification with your scope of work and the cost of the pantorouter? Do you think this is a tool where you will find a way to use it on nearly every project? That thing looks awesome! Thanks! Nutone woodworker
2) What’s up guys, I’m hoping by the end of the summer to have a much bigger shop space. First purchase I would like to make is a Jointer. Looking at the Grizzly 8” w/ a helical head. Any opinions on that specific one would be great, also open to suggestions on others. But my main question is, does a jointer replace a planer? Besides a planer being self-feeding, what are the actual differences? Thanks, guys look forward to the show every other week
Tom
Our Instagram Picks:
Sean: @justin_dipalma
Guy: @garagewoodworks
Huy: @ericreason
Thursday Mar 28, 2019
Thursday Mar 28, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) My question for the guys. With the internet providing information and inspiration for projects, do you still subscribe to woodworking magazines?
Eric (Poplar_shop)
2) Love the podcast guys. Got a question for the podcast. If you only get 3 Festool tools to that you could have in your shop what would they be? The domino can’t be included in your 3 tools. I have a track saw and looking into a sander possibly the rotex 125. I’m not sure I could justify the price of the kapex though I see you guys all have one.
Chris
Seans Questions:
1) This may be too basic to address on the shoe but you all talk of different benches. Assembly, work, and out-feed. I get what an out-feed bench is but what is the difference between work and assembly bench. Rick
2) Can you guys talk tack saws in a future episode? I’ve got some large panels to cut for a coffee bar i’m building and need some feedback on different brands. - W B Designs
Huys Questions:
1) I have a question about a stand-alone router table vs table saw extension wing router table. I’ve recently purchased a 3.25HP router and lift, and I’m now ready to build a dedicated router table. My workspace is a 20’x20’ garage that I share with the family van. Space is limited and everything has to be mobile. My vision has always been to add an extension wing router table to my cabinet saw. My recent concern is keeping the table flat over time. I’ll incorporate a torsion top, but I fear the saw will get too heavy to move around. Do you think I’ll have long term success with the extension wing or should go with a stand alone router table? I look forward to the input, keep up the good work!
Thanks
Jacob from North Carolina
2) Hi Guys, I love the show. I don’t have any woodworking buddies, so I love the Q&A format because you answer a lot of questions I have as a newish woodworker. I’ve been looking at building a new workbench and like any good woodworker, I’m doing too much research and not enough building. My question is about work holding. What types of vices do you guys prefer, why, what are the pros and cons. I was specifically debating between the Veritas twin screw or a Benchcrafted leg vice and could add a Moxon vice down the line if needed. Do you have any thoughts on either of these? I have a pretty small shop so I do mostly hand tool work since I don’t have much room for machines.
Thanks! Matt
Our Instagram picks:
Huy: @Mcintyrefurniture
Sean: @gregoryraiewski
Guy: @Woodreview
Thursday Mar 14, 2019
Thursday Mar 14, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Worst injury you've suffered from the shop? -Eric
2) I’m fairly new to woodworking and need to upgrade my job site saw to a more robust table saw with good fence options. This is just a hobby so I won’t be running it 40hrs a week. The problem is that I don’t have 220v near the garage and future plans include relocating the workshop to the other side of the property so it would be a waste to pay an electrician to run a new 220 circuit to the garage. I’ve been looking at the Powermatic PM1000 or the Grizzly G0833P hybrid saw. Both can be wired for 110 and 220 and seem to have enough power for the type of woodworking I do. Bobby
Seans Questions:
1) Hey guys! Love the podcast. If you’ve already addressed it please direct me to the episode, but otherwise, Pre-finish... I hear of/see people doing it but don’t understand. Do you pre-finish to get the colour you want, then finish for the durability and or level of gloss? And what combinations of products work? I wouldn’t have thought all products will adhere to an oil for instance. Cheers, Mark
2) Hey guys! The show is phenomenal and your content is inspiring. Do you ever follow up with past customers to see how your furniture pieces have aged? I'm always trying to learn new things and get better in the craft. A feedback loop or some kind of retrospective (Shawn, as a software guy you might appreciate that...) would help to get some insight on what design or construction choices worked well and what might need some tweaking. Maybe that's opening up pandora's box and is ill-advised, just curious as to your opinions. Firelight_1226
Huys Questions:
1) Okay, I’ve got another one for you three. I finished up installing the riser block on my powermatic bandsaw and after quite a bit of time getting everything tweaked and dialed for regular use with a standard blade.it seems great now but I want to address my fence situation before attempting resawing with my 3/8” woodslicer blade. What fences/styles of fences do you guys prefer for resawing. The one that came with the saw is quite short and so I’m thinking something that is tall but switchable to shorter for smaller pieces. I’m seeing aftermarket options from Kreg, Shopfox, Laguna, and MuleCab. They have a broad range of prices and that Laguna Driftmaster is like $400 so I just don’t know where to start or if you guys like the fences with the D-shaped bump in the center for guiding the wood on. And then to follow that, what kind of feather boards do you prefer, if at all, when resawing. So grateful for the time you spend on this podcast for our community, keep up the great work! Jonathan Scott Woodworks
2) My hobby has been transitioning lately toward commissions, and so I find myself consider things like time and cost more than when making gifts or just myself. (Good, you should be.)
I wonder how you make decisions about things like joinery (example, mortise and tenon vs a pocket screw, hand-cut vs. machine cut), materials, finish (shellac vs poly when you’re worried about the end user’s abuse) etc. Basically, what things do you consider when it is a piece for sale and what factors do you use when making those decisions?
When might you turn down a job? As a beginner in the commission market, should I take jobs that are good experience even if they aren’t technically a profit? I do have a day job that pays the bills.
Finally, do you ever consider it based on the tools you have? Would you ever make a purchase for a job and not consider it part of what the client pays for because it makes the job faster or easier down the line?
Thank you all for your input.
Peter Downing