Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking
Episodes
Thursday Sep 12, 2019
Thursday Sep 12, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Questions
Guys
1) I would like to have a better understanding of what is safe and what isn’t when cross cutting on the table saw.
I have seen lots of videos and read lots of articles that mention how dangerous cross cutting on the table saw can be when the aspect ratio of the work is such that the distance between the blade and the fence exceeds the length of the edge that is against the fence. This makes perfect sense to me as you want to avoid the possibility of the work twisting between the blade and fence and kicking back.
However, there are countless videos of supposedly knowledgeable woodworkers breaking down sheet goods and violating this aspect ratio rule. Do these rules not really apply when breaking down sheet goods for some reason?
2) Hello, I just picked up a Incra Ls positioner fence at a yard sale for $20, (they didn't know what it was). My question is when do you choose to use the Incra verses using your dovetail jig? I don't currently have a dovetail jig, are there some situations where a dovetail jig would be better? Any general discussion on the Incra would be great. Thanks, keep up the good work, the podcast has been excellent! - Travis
Seans
1) This is a router operation question. I was recently making a new jig for a project that required that I cut a long slot all the way through a piece that would allow a bolt to slide along that piece. (The piece is 16 by 2 and is about 5/4 thick. I was cutting a 1/4 slot that ran in the middle of the piece for about 15 inches. It would allow bolts to pass through the piece and then it could slide along the bolts so that it's position can be adjusted. Hope that makes sense)
I was using a 1/4 inch straight cutting bit in a router and making the cut in multiple passes. I had the cutting speed set relatively high (somewhere around 20,000 - 24,000 RPM) and was going about an 1/8 deep per pass. I was using a cheap bit so I was running in shallower passes than I would have thought necessary knowing that the performance of the bit is probably going to be lacking. Despite my best efforts the bit snapped off...Luckily it stayed in the groove I was cutting and did not become a projectile and there was no damage to the tool or the piece.
The situation raised a few questions for me:
1. How deep would you plunge that size a bit and expect it to cut without any safety or performance concerns? (my piece was laminated baltic birch ply if the material makes a difference. Bit was a 1/4 inch, 1/4 shank straight cutting bit.)
2. Is there something I should be doing in this type of situation to prevent this outcome? I had inserted the bit fully into the collet, I had set it to what I thought was an appropriate speed for it's size and I went shallow with my cuts not to stress it too much. Did I do the right things there? Other than getting a better bit, what would you do differently?
2) Hi Guys,
My question is about Joiner fences. I picked up an old 6" Delta Shop Master a few years that was in great condition, except that the fence on the outfeed side is welded to the table. I've never had the need to change the fence's angle (it's welded and calibrated to 90°) but I could see adjusting it's depth to reduce wear on my straight blades.
Do you guys find your self moving the fence often, or at all and if so, why?
Thanks for sharing your expertise and furthering our craft! Justin
Huys
1) Ahoy fellas. Absolutely love the podcast, been listening for a long time... BUT first time question for you.
Router Slab jigs. I'm getting ready to do an epoxy table and have seen plenty of "how to" videos on building your own on the Tube of You. But none of them explain how to set them up. What exactly needs to be parallel? Do I need a perfectly flat surface to set my piece on or no? I'm guessing as long as I shim my workpiece, I'll be fine. But then do I also have to make sure the piece is roughly on the same plane as the rails?
Overall my main worry is getting finished and I have one side of my table thinner than the other.
What am I missing?
Appreciate it! Keep up the GREAT work. Paul
2) Gonna keep this one simple. What is your favorite style of furniture to you enjoy building? Second part, what is your favorite period of furniture if it differs from what you enjoy building?
Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!
Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking
Social Media Mentions
Sean: @christopherscottfurniture
Guy: @Karlholm.design
Thursday Aug 29, 2019
Thursday Aug 29, 2019
Support us on Patreon:https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) I’ve always valued the information y’all share on the podcast and this one popped into my head.
Sitting at work today as I was looking for the end of the internet I went down the rabbit hole of different wood glues. After going down the rabbit hole there was a lot of things that actually made sense for using different glues for different applications. I have always just used titebond 3 because it just seems like the most versatile of any other glue out there. It’s water resistant and food safe so why have 15 different glues for 1000 different applications. As I grow more and more into the trade it leads me to wanting to move more toward the more tried and true methods that some of the most reputable woodworkers have proved to be the best practices for certain applications. Leading into the question, (minus brands if you don’t want to go there) What types of glues do you migrate to the most and what is the reason for that? Is it a certain type of glue for a certain application or do you sort of do like me and stick with a particular glue for any project you make? Would you design a project and decide that you’re going to use a certain type of glue for it over another?
Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!
Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking
2) Re: your pick for the ETS125 - is that just a smaller Rotex 150 basically? Why not use RO150 to cover more area? I only have the RO150 and the triangle shaped one... DTS?? JJ
Seans Questions:
1) I've got a large hole in a piece of ash. I'm not sure what to do with it. Other than. Fill with a black epoxy because the top will be stained pretty dark. I'm just worried it will be a really dark spot -Casey
2) Hi Guys,
I am working on an entry table with through mortise and tenon joints with the tenon as a show feature. I am cutting the mortises using a drill press and cleaning up with chisels. I tried a sample piece and it does not look great. Is there a good technique to get a near perfect joint? Or will I be okay filling in the cracks with sawdust/glue filler trick? What do you recommend?
Thanks for the advice. Keep up the great podcast!
Thanks,
James
Huys Questions:
1) My son had a black walnut cut down last October. The arborist also had a portable mill so he milled up a number of slabs for me. I have kept these slabs in my garage since then. They are stickered and I put three ratchet straps around the pile to hopefully keep them flat. When is the right time to move them into the house? Is it ok to keep them in the garage? Have you guys harvested any lumber like this? I know Cremona has a process but I want to know what normal people do! JK! I love Cremona
I've really enjoyed the format of the podcast. I listen to a number of them and I have to say this is on the top of the list.
David
2) I’ve been commissioned to restore a round oak table with several leafs and 6 chairs....built in the early 1900’s!
I’m excited for this project but restoration is still somewhat new to me. The table does have some water marks and other blushing on the finish, it I still don’t know what the finish is. I’d like to stay away from heavier solvents to avoid damaging the wood.
Would going straight to an orbital sander or by hand with 120 be my best bet to get through safely? And if I wanted to try and remove a layer with a stripper of sorts, would I just guess between the mineral spirits or alcohols?
Would love to hear your thoughts on this!
Joey from Winter Wolf Woodworking
Our Social Picks:
Huy: @plakotoris_studio
Guy: @stenewoodwork
Sean: @MrCabinetMaker
Thursday Aug 15, 2019
Thursday Aug 15, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Do you believe a grounding wire is required for home/hobby dust collection systems ? Eric
2) Hi Guys, love the podcast. I have a question on pricing / bidding your work. Do you have a standard formula, eg. 4x material? Do you ask the potential client how much they’re looking to spend and see if you can do it profitably? Any banter and guidance on the subject would be appreciated. Hope to make it into the podcast. Best, Will
Seans Questions:
1) Hello guys, first of all great podcast, the questions are always my favourite part of any podcast so I really love your format. My question is regarding a standard drum sander vs. an orbital drum sander. I have seen a few on Craigslist for sale- the one I'm considering is a 2010 Jet 22-44max for $400. In doing research I see a lot of the new models are random orbit. Will this make a huge difference? I'm on a budget so a new machine isn't going to happen and I haven't seen any used random orbit models for sale. -Travis
2)Hey Guys!!!! A big fan of all 3 of you and love the show!!!!
Question for all of you...What brand of router bits do you prefer? With there being tons out there, which one is your go-to brand of bits? Whiteside, Freud, Amana, CMT, Irwin, etc... I hear lots of tool reviews out there, but never a really lot on router bits.
I would love to hear your thoughts on it and see which ones you guys like.
Keep the podcast coming!!!!
Nick
Huys Questions:
1) Not liking the end of day cough, I've been investing in dust collection. I use a Festool dust extractor for small tools. I run a WEN air filter. I have built a DIY cyclone separator out of an older JET 30um bag collector. The one tool that still throws dust all over me and into the air is my Sawtop table saw. I'm thinking of investing in ovehead dust collection, but I'm wondering if it is practical, effective, and worth the investment. As I think Sean has the sawstop dust collection guard, I'm wondering how well it works or if there are better alternatives. What is your experience?
John from AZ
2) Are there any pieces of furniture that are in your home that you wish you had not bought/made? I often look at the furniture that I bought from a certain Swedish brand and wish I had the time to make something nicer/better. Thanks guys, love the pod and keep up the great work. Paul
Social Picks
Thursday Aug 01, 2019
Thursday Aug 01, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Would also like to get either an Incra Miter Sled or Miter Gauge. I see they have a sled/gauge combo or a sled with an integral miter gauge. Can you discuss the pros and cons of each option? - David
2) For Router table use is there really a difference when using a pattern bit vs a flush-trim bit when you want to flush an edge up with a template? Does riding the bearing on top vs on the bottom cause any safety concern? Does one leave a better/worse edge or does it even matter? Thanks, Ryan
Seans Questions:
1) Hey guys, love the podcast. Especially listening to guy, because I feel like I'm listening to myself from the future. In response to your recent call for more questions, I have one about tool sharpening. Specifically, what kind of honing jig to buy. I see there are a lot of them out there, but do you have any recommendations on a specific one to get. I'm getting into more hand tool work, and I want to be able to maintain my own chisels, as well as restore some old hand planes that I have. Any advice you may have is much appreciated. Thanks again for being willing to share your knowledge and experience. -Tavis
2) You've mentioned some of the books you've relied on, and I appreciate that, since I'm a green-as-grass beginner, and benefit from any source of information I can get. I'd also like to hear you talk about what mentors or teachers you had who helped shape your skills. Have any of you taken formal classes or gone to woodworking schools? I know that the best way to develop skills is by building furniture and learning from mistakes, but I also hope to participate in a class sometime, if only to find an active woodworking community. - Martin
Huys Questions:
1) I've recently bought a good planer/jointer combo machine. It uses 3 planer knives in the cutter block. I won't be using it enough to consider an upgrade to some sort of helical cutterhead. So I've been thinking about a practical way to sharpen the knives. I've come to a jig, some sort of wooden block with an insert for one knife. The top surface of the block is tilted in such a way that my water stones have support for the correct angle when I use them to sharpen the edge.
The jig works, but I wonder if there is a more practical (faster) way to sharpen. I see that Tormek sells a sharpening system that does this, but since it costs more than the helical cutter block, I find that too expensive.
My question: do you know of an affordable sharpening system for planer knives (mine are 10" long)? - Bart
2) Looking at finishing the top I was going to use epiphanies spar varnish but was wary of using this finish because of UV resistance. Would this inhibit the natural darkening of Cherry? My other option was General finishes ARM R seal or Waterlox. I don’t have way to spray so conversion varnish is out of the question.
My other thought was to dye the slab with Lye and use the Epifanes.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks
Jesse
Beechland Furniture
Social Picks
Guy: @kingposttimberworks
Sean: @hawthorne_fine_boxes
Huy: @affinecreations
Thursday Jul 18, 2019
Thursday Jul 18, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Hi guys love the show. I have a question about finishes. My generation (millennial) is into natural products. So I would like to have most and if not all my products that I have lined up ready to be finished to be natural. I've thought about shellac but for the projects that will be around alcohol, shellac is basically out of the picture. But I was wondering if I could put wax over it and that would help with the sealing or if I have to try something else? If I have to try something else what would you suggest that's a natural sealer? Some of my projects include a tabletop and beer caddy. Have you ever heard of the safe coat as a sealer? -Paige
2) Absolutely love the podcast guys, keeps my long drives to and from work educational and also tolerable.
I know finishing has been covered a lot, but I can’t recall if the technique was ever covered. And also technique specific to the type of finish. I would love to spray everything, but as my shop is also my garage that isn’t always an option. What have you found easiest for applying different finishes? Natural bristle brushes, synthetic/polyester bristle brushes, foam brushes, plain old wiping on with an old t-shirt, spit shine, etc....I’ve also noticed I’m finding myself putting 2-3 coats on and then sanding back a coat instead of doing the light sanding with every single coat. Seems to work, but am I just wasting finish due to impatience? And Guy always talks about his famous BLO, poly, naphtha wipe-on varnish. I’d love to try that, how is it mixed and what is the amount of each product in the final mixture?
Finishing never ends and I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Joey from Winter Wolf Woodworking
Seans Questions:
1) I'm in the market for my first Jointer. As usual, not a lot of money to spend. I am looking for a used Jointer and would like to know what I should be looking for, what I should avoid, and how to prioritize this list. The price range is up to $400. My project focus is furniture and jewelry box making. I have a small shop, under 200 sqft. Love your podcast and really appreciate all the information and tips you guys share. Thomas
2) I know this may be a bit of a loaded question as there are so many variables to consider but with the audience that is to be considered. I know what my particular practices are and they haven’t failed me yet. I believe it may be a good one for some of the “newer” woodworkers out there would really benefit from hearing it from some highly experienced makers as yourselves.
Hi fellows... I would normally say guys but well... we all know theirs only one Guy here. I wanted to know about glueing up a panel from several boards. When gluing up a panel at what point would you consider using something such as a dowel or a domino to keep the boards aligned? Is there a certain thickness, length, or even width that you’d feel that there would be a need for adding this type of structural support to the glue-up. I know that they help out a ton with alignment but I’d like to know what your thoughts are on this subject.
Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!
Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Huys Questions:
1) I’m in the process of revamping and improving my shop, and the next step is dust collection. I have a 1.5 hp Shop Fox dust collector moving 1280 cfm of air. My problem is always with the friction loss in the flexible hoses. I plan to install 6” pvc on the wall and snub shorter flexible sections to some of the bigger tools. My question is regarding the split offs. Are the stop gates enough to single out air flow to certain machines? And what is the best way to reduce this down to a hose for handheld power tools?
2) I would like to purchase a new dado stack. I have an old Craftsman set that is steel - not carbide tipped. What do you guys use? Can you recommend a brand that works for you?
Social Picks
Guys: @bearkatwood
Seans: @duncangowdy
Huys: @louis_fry_furniture
Thursday Jul 04, 2019
Thursday Jul 04, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Hey Guys, a question on when a breadboard end is needed on a table top. I'm making my first kitchen table with a 5/4 35” x 8’ oak top. My client didn’t like the look of a breadboard end so I’m a bit concerned about movement down the road. The top won’t overhang the aprons by more than 4” and I’m planning to connect it with those z clips with a couple of cross pieces to keep it rigid. Do you think I run a risk of cupping? I’ve thought about getting some of those c-channel iron to route into the underside but is that overkill?
Homarus woodworks
2) Hi guys, love the show. I have a would you rather question on finishing. Would you rather finish a whole large project or try and match a finish for a smaller project. My specific scenario is refinishing my basement bar. I’m going with dark cabinets and I know I’m going to have to make shelves and trim to match. Do I get unfinished cabinets and finish it all myself so they’re the same, or try and match prefinished cabinets? Thanks! Matt
Seans Questions:
1) Hi, I have a question for the podcast. I am about to start drawers for my dresser build and the sides call for 1/2" material. Would you use 4/4 material making a lot of waste or would you go to a thicker material and resaw for the 1/2" final dimensions hoping to cut down on waste? Would the type of wood you are using sway your decision as wood stability may cause the wood to cup/bow more than others? Thanks, Ryan.
2) Is there a special technique for sanding round overs? I've tried sanding round overs by hand, but end up with scratch marks long the "top" of the piece. When I try sanding with a random orbit sander, I feel like it eats away too much wood and it's not a consistent round over anymore. Thoughts? Matt
Huys Questions:
1) I’m wanting to make a cross-cut sled for trimming the ends on boards that I’ve glued up. I want the cross-cut sled to have the most capacity that it can. So, I’m probably going to end up building something like Huy’s “Aircraft carrier”.
Any tips on making that thing as accurate as it can possibly be? Is there anything you’d do differently if you had to remake it?
Y’all are great! Keep the podcasts coming!!
Cory
2) My question for all of you is about ordering lumber and sheet goods online versus buying in person and being able to pick through and select boards.
Do you have experience ordering large quantities of sheet goods online? What about hardwoods? What do I need to know before placing an order for things like this?
Any tips for ensuring I receive quality plywood for cabinets? I’m relatively new to woodworking so any technical advice or terminology to use would be greatly appreciated. I know higher quality plywood typically has more plies, but I’m not sure how to even specify this or tell how many plies the sheets for sale online have.
Could you recommend any sources for ordering online? I’m located in the Tampa, Florida area.
I am tired of imposing on friends and family to borrow a pickup truck to pick up all the sheet goods I need and I don’t mind paying for the convenience of truck delivery if it’s an option worth considering. However, I do not want to waste money if I’m going to get all the crappy sheets that they can’t sell in person because they are all busted and warped with gaps in the laminations.
Thank you all for putting out such quality and informative podcast. I’ve enjoyed every episode so far.-Hunter
Our Social Picks
Guy: @tomfoolerywood
Sean: @mhwoodworker
Thursday Jun 20, 2019
Thursday Jun 20, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Hey guys keep up the good work on the podcast. My question is regarding grain fillers. Have you ever used these on open grain species such as oak to get a smooth finish? I have an oak bar table I’m in the process of making and was contemplating using this after a waterbased dye and before a finish coat of waterlox.
Thanks, Jesse
2) I find the vacuum bag to be more than just a clamp for veneer. I want one and would like to know what I should be looking for when considering a purchase. -sergeantmaker
Seans Questions:
1) How much scrap is too much? I like to hold onto smaller pieces I can make into wedges, bow ties, etc....but when is enough truly enough? Are there certain pieces you’ll keep, more rare species of wood? Or is it straight to the kindling pile? Winter wolf woodworking
2) Good morning Guy, Huy, and Sean. I had a question on tool brands. I get asked all the time from my peers in the community what brand of tool is better than another. My general answer to all of them is usually the same every time. Within the budget you’re looking to spend there are usually a few different brands. Within those price points, all of these tools are going to perform basically at the same level and have the same features. The best thing you can do is go put your hands on it, feel the tool, see how it works and if it’s a good fit for you. My question to you all is when you are looking for a new tool no matter hand tool or power tool is a particular brand one of the first things you look for or do you go after that budget point versus quality and functionality? Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops!
Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking
Huys Questions:
1) I have a couple questions about lumber storage. This would be for dried lumber. Do you store it horizontally with stickers, horizontal without stickers, or can you store it vertical? For longer lumber, it may be more efficient to store it vertically. What do you guys do? David
2) I was wondering if any of you use specialty chisels in your work. Fishtail or skew chisels for example. Do you have multiple sets? Mortise, dovetail, paring, etc. Keep up the good work. Joshua Messick
Our Social Media Picks:
Guy: @nickjamesdesign
Sean: @jonathanscott_woodcrafts
Huy: @alcornwoodworking
Thursday Jun 06, 2019
Thursday Jun 06, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) I’m interested to know, before youtube and Instagram, who inspired you? -ralphbrackney
2) Is there any issue with the combo machines having a shorter bed length for the planer aspect? - Brent
Seans Questions:
1) What is your biggest screw up/mistake on a project and what did you do to fix, cover up or a notable screw up with a clever fix. Not the worst but you got creative with the fix.
-R2 Woodworking.
2) I just wanted to say thank you guys for sharing your wealth of knowledge on the subject of woodworking. I work as a law enforcement officer and listening to your podcasts on my way home from work help me not only unwind but expand my understanding of the craft.
I am a hobbyist who is just getting into woodworking and was curious if you guys could point me in the right direction of specific written literature so I can really nail down the basics before moving on to more complex tasks.
Thanks again,
Luke
Huys Questions:
1)Regarding thin kerf blades - seems like you guys didn't like them? I bought a "Freud" thin kerf ripping blade for my underpowered Delta from Lowes. That Freud thin kerf completed changed my saw for the better. Huge difference. Anyway were you guys worried about flex or something with the thin kerf? I didn't understand. - JJ
2) Years ago, before I really got into woodworking, I painted some cheap 1/4” plywood for a project. I only painted one side and over (very little) time the pieces curled up like taco shells. Since then, I have always finished both sides of the plywood. I am currently making a shelving unit that will be wedged into a corner. I am using 3/4” blondewood ply from the big box stores. The backside of the shelving unit will never be seen. On plywood this thick, do I still need to keep painting both sides? If so, does it need an equal number of coats on both sides? - Hunter Robinson
Books mentioned:
The Why and How of Woodworking
The Complete Illustrated Guide To Joinery
Our Social Media Picks:
Guy: @tim_noone_furnituredesign
Sean: @haltaylor_rocks
Huy: @bbumslife
Thursday May 23, 2019
Thursday May 23, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) A follow-up question that may get Guy going:
I’m currently upgrading my 3hp sawstop pcs 52 inch because I’m moving states and gifting it to my father.
Originally, my thoughts were to go right to the 5HP Sawstop ICS without much consideration for other saws. I do like the safety feature just as an insurance Policy because you never know - we all do stupid things from time to time. Can you speak on times where the sawstop does not operate as intended and fails to save the injury and other saws that may be better but do not include the technology? I am typically pretty careful.
-Ray
2) I emailed a little while ago to ask about MFT tops and all I have found premade so far are MDF tops for the MFT. BUT I found these tops and benches by Armor tools. https://armor-tool.com/products/woodworking/workstations/benches/
It is a butcher block top and has 3/4 inch holes. I do use Festool sanders, a router, and track saw but is there any reason that using a 3/4 inch dog hole top would be inferior to the 20mm top Festool uses? I know the Festool dog hole devices will not work but there are lots of 3/4 inch accessories. If the dog holes are aligned correctly I can bump the Festool track against the dogs to line up cuts. Am I missing a downside?
The armor tool top is $200-250 but seems more sturdy than the MDF.
Lamar
Sean's Questions:
1) Hey guys. Love the podcast as always. Please keep it up! I have a quick question about finishing. I know you covered this topic but I’m curious about protection from water marks.
I had a client recently that wanted a long desk for her children out of walnut. I explained that water in wood or wood finish is never a good idea. (Leaving standing water, cups rings, etc) is there a finish out there( besides epoxy) that will withstand this water. I am also wondering about hot items. I’ve noticed some finishes(lacquer) will leave a ring if you put a hot cup on it. Are there finishes that won’t fail with either of these issues? Thanks so much.
Ryan Wilging
2) Hey guys,
Love the show, definitely one of the best Woodworking podcasts out there.
I’m going to build a 2 car garage (approx. 24’x30’) for use as my new shop. I’m a hobbyist woodworker, mostly a couple of hours here and there nights and weekends. If you were building a new shop from the ground up, what features and considerations would you recommend?
Thanks, Ron
Huys Questions:
1) My question is regarding Baileigh Industrial tools. I currently own an 8" Baileigh jointer (IJ-875) and really like it. I've been contemplating purchasing a free standing router table and possibly a cyclone style dust collector. My current shop is outfitted nicely with good tools i.e. Powermatic planer, drum sander and mortiser, Sawstop TS, Laguna bandsaw, etc but I'm wondering if any of you have experience with Baileigh and what your opinion is of them. I find their prices are slightly less than say Powermatic and other top brands so it makes sense to consider them only if they're a trusted brand. I don't see or hear much about them and all I have to go on is the jointer I have. I will say their manuals leave a lot to be desired. Thanks for any input! Michael
2) Huy, how is the baby? My wife and I had our first not long after you, he is a 4-month-old little boy now - The work life/home life balance came relatively easy, but I’m having trouble adding in shop time especially during the week - if I only have between 5 and 9 with the family how do I justify spending a quarter of that time fooling around in the shop? Or am I now destined to be a weekend warrior? Oh, actual question, how is Huy handling it? Matterhorn woodworks
Our Social Picks:
Sean: @CTFineFurniture
Guy: @prusawoodworks
Huy: Kevin0611
Thursday May 09, 2019
Thursday May 09, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) What's your least favorite wood species to work with and why? Eric
2) Thank you for all the great content and for coming together to create this podcast. I've learned a lot from all three of you over the last few years. Here's my question:
I live near the coast in North Florida which is a very warm and humid climate. Huy, I know you live in Alabama, so maybe you can relate to this. My shop is climate controlled in that it has central A/C, but it's an old building and the humidity level varies greatly throughout the year. I don't have local access to a lot of hardwood lumber, but what I can get is typically kiln dried and stored in non climate controlled environments before I get my hands on it. It seems like invariably the lumber I get warps in some way, almost regardless of how long I let it sit before milling it and the moves again after I mill it. I know this is common, but I think the amount of movement I'm seeing is not what you'd see in a climate with more moderate humidity, but maybe I'm wrong. The exception to this is a batch of air dried cherry that I picked up from someone that had been drying for about 20 years. Given that I don't want to wait 20 years before starting each project, is there anything I can do to reduce the amount of movement I'm seeing in my lumber and can you talk a little bit about techniques you might employ if the wood does move so that it's not just all wasted. For example; alternating cups and bows when gluing a panel together so that they kind of cancel each other out.
Thanks again for your willingness to share your experiences with the community.
Dave
Seans Questions:
1) Seeing other woodworkers invest into the community is awesome, I appreciate that you guys are doing your part to keep our craft alive.
I have a question for you guys.
I have found in many cases its easier to break out a hand tool, than to set up an operation using power tools. In what cases will you choose a hand tool over a power tool, and why? Would love to hear your thoughts on this.
regards,
Mike Miller
MillerWoodcraft
2) My wife and I recently bought our first house and are looking to freshen up the kitchen. Looking to do a painted finish but I am trying to weigh the pros and cons of refinishing what we have or purchasing new cabinets. The current cabinets are solid oak boxes with MDF doors with veneered front, original to the house. Originally I was going to build new shaker style doors and then paint everything to match. However, after doing some test doors on the router table with tongue and groove bit, I am not feeling so confident(novice woodworker) with that and also the amount of work involved to remove the finish and repaint all the boxes as well. Given all that, it seems easier or more cost and time effective to buy new cabinets that I can finish myself or possibly pre-finished in the color we want. Any insight or advice you guys could provide would be very beneficial. Thank you in advance and absolutely love the podcast! Andy
Huys Questions:
1) Question - I have a Delta 28-243 14" bandsaw with a riser block kit that I've been slowly upgrading. I've put new wheel bearings and urethane tires on. Next step I'm thinking about is ordering the Carter wheel guides instead of using cooling blocks. They are spendy, so do you think it's worth the upgrade? Thanks, love the show!
-Larry
2) Hey gents, love the podcast here is a question/show topic for you. What are your top 5 productivity techniques when building furniture? I'm sure there a ton of juicy nuggets in there that can help a ton of people including myself. I'm running a furniture business on the side and I'm trying to get faster while increasing/maintaining my quality. Thanks guys, Brad
Our Social Picks:
Sean YouTube pick: Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration
Huy: @willowswoodworks
Guy: @tektonguild