Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking
Episodes
Thursday Dec 05, 2019
Thursday Dec 05, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) I have a makita trim router with a ¼” up cut spiral bit routing a groove in the edge of a board and the collet keeps loosening the bit. I’m only taking ⅛” deep passes. Not sure what the problem is. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Douglas.
2) Love the show. My hobbiest shop is a 24x30 garage and I’m looking to upgrade the dust collection. I initially looked at a big 3HP dust collector and plumbing the whole shop with 4” and 6” ducting.
Now I’m looking at getting 2-3 Grizzly G0785 Or Rockler wall mount units and keeping each near 1-2 machines and not running expensive and cumbersome duct work all over my shop. It seems like for about $1200 I could have a pretty effective setup by going this way instead of 1 big dust collector.
Am I missing something? Do you see any disadvantages of going with multiple smaller units mounted close to my machines? - Ron
Sean
1) Hey guys I’ve got a workbench vise question. I’m in the process of building a new workbench and am ready to mount a front vise.
I have an old record style vise that I was going to use and mount to the apron leaving it proud. However everyone I see now mounts there vise inset using the bench apron as the rear jaws of the vise. Granted these are all quick release Lee Valley style vises.
Would you mount the vise proud or inset the vise? I found some info from Paul Sellers in favor of mounting a vise proud to avoid pinching fingers. But haven’t found any info on people using vises that are flush to the apron of the bench.
Btw this isn’t my end all be all beautiful shaker/rubo bench. It will probably last 5-7 years before I replace it.
Thanks
Jesse
Beechland Furniture -
2) I am a very green woodworker. I am building a small side/end table. I'll attach the top to the aprons and allow for wood movement. I want to add a shelf at about a third of the length from the top to the floor. I thought about attaching it to the legs. How would you guys do it?
Thanks for the great podcast. - Omer
Huy
1) Thank you all for devoting such time to this podcast. I am a new woodworker and I am learning so much in every episode.
I am writing with a question about jointing and spring joints. I refurbished an old Atlas 6000 6 inch jointer. It's a beast and I think I did a pretty good job getting everything aligned -- very sharp new blades at the right height. But when I edge-joint longer boards (60" -- the outfeed table of the jointer is only about 26"), I do get a very small, wide arch (crook or frown face) on the jointed edge. When I put two jointed boards edge to edge to make a panel, there is a small (1/32-1/16") gap in the center, but the ends of the board are flush. I lamented this to a fellow woodworker and he told me not to worry -- that it's a best practice to make a "spring joint' by leaving such a gap and closing it up via clamps during a glue-up. So my question is: is my friend right -- should I just go with a spring joint? And if he's not right, how can I calibrate my jointer so I get a straighter edge? - Adam Potthast
2) I'm going to be building a run of side chairs in the near future, and am in the design phase. My question is about the necessity of lower stretchers for durability. I'd like these chairs to last for decades (at least), and my kids/nephews are maniacs. Do lower stretchers on a side chair add measurable strength, or are the mortise/tenon joints for the seat aprons sufficient on their own? I love your podcast. Thanks very much. - Andrew
Thursday Nov 21, 2019
Thursday Nov 21, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy:
1) Hi Guys, been thinking a lot lately on getting into woodworkering. I follow several instagram and YouTube channels but just wanted to get some input on what i need to get started and what are some really nice projects for a complete beginner to start off with. -acam22
2) Gentleman, thank you for answering my question in Episode 7. Ive got a new question for you. Blade Cleaning versus Blade Sharpening. We all know it’s a good practice the clean blades regularly and personally I go with some warm water and simple green, it’s worked great for me. My question is, what are the signs I should look for when I’m beyond this simple solution and it’s time to get my blades sharpened. Thanks and keep up the good work! -Hubble_workshop
Sean:
1) How do you like the jet combo jointer/thickness planer? I’m space limited and thinking of replacing a 6” ridgid jointer and 10” inca combo machine. I’d like to have a larger jointer and was wondering how you like the combination machine. Did you consider other similar models?
Thanks - Adam
2) I recently acquired 120 bf of ash and thought it would be perfect to make a new office desk. I was thinking of making a metal base with ash top and ash cabinets underneath. There would be a single cabinet box on either side. I was thinking of making the cabinet box out of solid ash. Is this a good idea? Any concerns or should I still to plywood? The reason for ash would be to keep consistent wood/grain/color throughout. And the fact I have a lot of it. If solid wood is ok, any recommendations on box construction? Thanks! - crwoodshop
Huy:
1) Is there a distinct advantage to a cast iron router surface over a laminate one? The price difference seems negligible between the two.
- Is there anything that we should consider specifically when getting a router table wing/insert with regards to fence and dust collection? For example, Saw Stop looks like it uses a proprietary fence that doesn't have dust collection at the fence. We're trying to "future-proof" our shop as best we can, so we don't want to be limited by being stuck to a single solution with regards to fences. Our plan is to put a JessEm Mast-R Lift II in whatever wing we get with the Porter Cable 7518.
Thanks for the awesome podcast. By far my favorite wood working podcast and something we look forward to every time we see a new episode release. Keep up the good work!
Chris and Lydia
2) I'm planning on building a few cedar shutters. I want to maintain the original wood color as much as possible and prevent the cedar from graying over time. What finish would you recommend that would both protect the wood from rain/sunlight and also prevent the wood from graying too quickly?
Thanks! - Josh
Thursday Nov 07, 2019
Thursday Nov 07, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) Have you ever made your own plywood from solid wood for projects? I’m thinking a void free core of walnut plywood could allow me to use it in projects where the edge could be exposed unlike traditional veneered plywood and also give me some dimension stability. You thoughts? Tips? Brian
2) I know at least one of you uses the Leigh dovetail jig. Just wondering how well the jig is made. If the tail and pin boards align, and if there is a lot of tweaking to get the jig to work properly. I have Porter Cable 4216 jig. I have been trying to get this to work for a case I am working on. I was having some problems with the tails and pins being about a sixteenth out of alignment. I took many measurements to be sure that the tail board is centered in the template only to discover as I loosened the template it could shift side to side by more that a thirty second of an inch. There are a few other things I am not crazy about with this jig. Just wondering what your experiences have shown using other jigs,
Also, thanks for answering all of my previous questions! - Dave
Sean
1) I have been a weekend woodworker for 5 or so years as time permits with 3 kids and a busy schedule. I am working out of a 3 car garage that my wife and I both park in. I use about 1.5 bays currently and when I do not have a project I move equipment so I can park. I do not have an assembly or outfeed table to work from and often use the garage floor. Frustrating... I am looking for space savings option for a table, preferably one with dog holes so I can clamp to route, biscuit joint, and other assembly work. I currently do not have hand tools i.e. handsaws, planes, or chisels for heavy duty hand tool work. Maybe one that is portable like Guys outfeed table as I have an incra tablesaw fence as well. I don't know if a festool mft3 would be a solution as I could store it when not working/assembling. Maybe a storabe outfeed table as well as a storable assemble might work. I don't think I am ready for a hand tool workbench yet. My father in law had a production cabinet door and counter top shop with a large industrial CNC machine and could cut a festoool style top out of MDF that would not cost me anything out of pocket. Is that a good option? Any recommendations would be appreciated.
2) Shhhh.... don’t let Guy know I asked another question. Let’s just say this one is from Boudreaux François... hahaha
With as many jigs and templates that are made for your projects through the years what do you do with them? Do you make them one time, use them then toss them out or repurpose them for other jigs? Aside from the obvious ones that are traditionally used in the shop (cross cut sleds, tapering jig, edge jointing jig for the table saw... etc) at what point do you say “I’m going to keep this one”. I have always struggled with the idea of spending the time to make these jigs and templates even if I know that I won’t necessarily be using it again in the next 6 months then just trashing it. Just curious.
As always, Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!
Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking
Huy
1) I am making a pair of side tables that are based on Philip Morley's table design from the #275 Fine woodworking issue. I've scaled it down and modified it to be a side table more than a dining table (proportionally shrunk all the dimensions, increased apron size to fit a shallow drawer in it and added a low shelf) but I am trying to keep a similar look to his original piece. So, I am using his techniques to create the legs which have a curved taper and Phil achieves this shape with a two-sided jig that he runs along a flush cut trim bit.
My legs are 2 and 5/16 thick at the thickest part. Add on about 1/2 inch for the jig and that meant I needed to get a pretty tall flush cut bit. I bought a flush cut bit (top and bottom bearing) that is 2 and 1/2 inches long (2 and 1/2 cutting length, 3/4 wide, 1/2 shank, overall length 4 and 7/8) so that I could route it in one pass.
I will set it up on the router table and I intend to cut real close to the line so I don't have much material to remove, but I am still a little nervous about it when I think about that tall bit. I have never used such a large bit before and would like to know what special considerations to take.
Should I be concerned about the stability of the bit when it is that tall?
2) Hello again, some advice/brainstorming sought.
I am building a puzzle building table. If you are unfamiliar, it is essentially a large box with a very shallow bottom so that a puzzle can be built on that surface. Two large leaves then fold over from the ends to cover the entire top, leave a table for other use.
Because of the leaves unfolding and draping over the short ends, I need the end to be flush across, so a normal leg with the rails mortised in won't really work as insetting the rail isn't possible with the hinges, and flush (to me) won't look right. The ones I've seen on the internet build a big box then attach the legs inside the corners. I'd also like the legs to be removable so that it can be transported more compact as it will be "pub height" of about 40"
I'm wondering what attachment method you might use to lace the legs on the inside corners, preferably removable, but also sturdy and non wracking.
The rails will be about 8" wide (still designing) with the "bottom" about an inch from the top. So there will be about 6-7" available corner space underneath the top for the legs to rest.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Peter
@mr.downing.woodworking on Instagram
Our social media picks:
Sean: @thosmoser
Guy: @pdindy
Huy: @meredithhartfurniture
Thanks to the sponsor of this episode, Maverick Abrasives
Thursday Oct 24, 2019
Thursday Oct 24, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Hi guys , I have been pondering this for a while and just wanted some other perspectives, if you don't mind. Question, how would you go about veneering a cabriole leg, something in the Louis 14th era. I haven't found anything on how it was done (some kind of hammer veneering I'm guessing)
I want to do this for a personal project and would appreciate any insights.
Cheers, joey chalk.
2) I have an older coffee table. Nicely made from oak. It is finished in a dark brown stain and then covered in a glossy varnish (at least I think it's a stain/varnish combination). I like the coffee table, but the finish is not my style and would prefer it to be matt and/or lighter in color .
I guess the easiest work is to just get it matt by lightly sanding it and refinishing it with matt varnish? Getting the color lighter will require more sanding and more work?
What would your approach be? Any suggestions for stains, oils or another finishes that look natural/lighter?
Thank you!
Bart (from Belgium)
Seans Questions:
1) I was wondering your thoughts about putting a wax finish over danish oil. I’ve heard that it’s more upkeep and unnecessary. I’ve finished a few small gift boxes made out of walnut with danish oil but I feel that I don’t quite get the patina I'm looking for. Do you have a favorite finish for small gift boxes? - Scott
2) Hi Guys,
Thanks for putting together such a great podcast! I know that Guy has a 12" jointer/planer combo machine and believe Huy and Sean may also. I've asked Guy a few questions about his machine in the past and he has been kind enough to answer and even do a review of his machine...thanks Guy! I am looking to eventually purchase a similar machine to Guy's, but the Canadian importer I will purchase from offers both 12" and 16" models. Has there been a time that you've wished for a machine larger than 12"? Obviously the 16" is more money, an extra $1000 or so. Would you go for the 16", or is 12" more than enough? - Kreg
Huys Questions:
1) I always here people talk about how you can’t trust the square you just bought to be square. Well, if nothing I have is square, then how the hell do I know what is actually square? This question of what is really square and what is not has been screwing with me for a couple of years now. So I just pass over it and get my stuff close enough.... which, of course, makes for its own set of headaches....PyratWoodworking
2) Loving the podcast guys! My question is regarding third party upgrades to bigger machines. Recently found a used Jet JJ-6CSX on marketplace for pretty cheap ($550) and the commercial contractor selling it must not have used it because it’s in amazing condition. That being said, I’m tempted to upgrade the cutter head. Although the knives are functional and fine, I know that a helical head has a lot more long term benefits.
So my question is: Have any of you upgraded a cutterhead from a third party vendor before? If so, how did it work out? I have also only been able to find a couple of options from Grizzly or Byrd. Are there others out there that also make something that can fit this model and what should I be weary of when looking?
As always thanks for all you guys do.
Joey
Winter Wolf Woodworking
Our Social Picks:
Sean: @StudioCSH
Guy: @retiredwithwood
Huy: @fernwehwoodworking
Thursday Oct 10, 2019
Thursday Oct 10, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Questions
Guy:
1) Hey guys! I Love the podcast and I've listened to every episode!
I'm currently building a simple kitchen island and am having an issue with the top. The top will be made up of three 1.5" thick X 7.5" wide X 42.5" long pine boards. I have a cheaper Jet jointer/planer combo machine and I can't get a good seamless joint between the boards right off the machine. I'm attempting to fine tune the joint by hand using a No. 4 hand plane, but just can't seem to get a gapless joint. In your opinion, is it possible to properly square up the edge of a 1.5" thick, 42" long board using only a No. 4 or is something like a No 7 the only way to go? Any help would be appreciated.
2) Hey guys,
I guess this is a question more for mr. Dunlap. In regards to your jessem stock guides; when do you find yourself using them vs not? For example what about pieces short enough not to catch both guides at the same time (where the first roller drops off before the second engages)? Or boards that are narrow to the point of a push stick being awkward. For example 3” or less? I’m a new convert and am loving them on wider stock such as plywood. Just not sure when else to use them. Thanks for the podcast. It’s the highlight of the week, and one saved for the arduous traffic of Los Angeles.
Tanc.
Sean:
1) Hey guys- I'm in the market for my first dust collector. I'm set on a canister filtr as my shop is in the basement. I'm torn between the Grizzly G0583Z - 1 HP Canister and the Grizzly G0548ZP - 2 HP Canister Dust Collector. I think Sean has the latter. My question is: Would the 1 HP collector be sufficient for a 620 sq ft shop using a one-tool-at-a-time setup? I don't see myself ever adding ductwork to every tool due to low ceilings. I plan on have dedicated shop vacs for tool like the miter saw, etc. I have 220V available but its at the opposite corner from where I want the collector to be, so I'm taking that hassle of extending that into consideration. The difference in cost is about $165 on Amazon (which is cheaper than directly from Grizzly when you consider $99 freight.
Thanks for your time. Keep up the good work!
2) Your preference, Western push saw or Japanese pull saw?
Huy:
1) Hey Guys,
I built my wife a table and I started using my hand plane to level everything out. Occasionally, the toe of the plane would dig into the work piece. After a lot of explicit language, I'd get it "fixed". Any idea what could be going on? If it matters, it's a Stanley No 4
2) I have never used a spokeshave but I want to get one for making on site templates for built ins. Would this type of work be appropriate for the $30-40 level Stanley or kunz spokeshaves? I would also like to get one for use in the shop. Is there a spokeshave that could handle both equally well, or is that a case for nicer set (curved and flat bottomed for the shop) ?
Social Picks
Sean: @darrell.peart
Huy: @kieselbachworkshop
Thursday Sep 26, 2019
Thursday Sep 26, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Questions
Guy:
1) I have a question regarding table saws. Since I still haven’t been able to convince my wife to let my buy a used Felder KF700 , what are your thoughts on other sliding table saws. I know you all have conventional cabinet saws. I’m considering getting the Grizzly G0623X as an upgrade to my Ridgid R4512. I’ve also looked at other table saws such as the SawStop and Powermatic PM2000. However with a traditional cabinet saw I’d also be considering getting the Incra Miter 5000. With that the cost ends up being more than the Grizzly. I’d be interested in hearing your guys thoughts on such options. -Ian
2) I’ve recently been looking into moisture meters and found the good ones seem to be $300 and up. I want to ask if you three use a moisture meter? If so, what do you use and recommend? Thanks for the great info on the podcast, it’s been a big help for this new woodworker. Keep up the good work.
Matt in Alabama
Sean:
1) Hey guys, really enjoying the podcast. Makes my commutes far more enjoyable! My question for you is regarding resawing. I currently get by with an assortment of hand tools, a Dewalt DWE7491RS table saw with a stand that folds up on end, and a Dewalt thickness planer. While I would love to add a nice 14” bandsaw to the arsenal, I simply do not have the shop space at this moment in time. I am about to start making my wife a jewelry box using walnut for the sides and would like to incorporate a bookmatched maple top. I haven’t worked out the dimensions yet, but I will likely shoot for a panel size in the ballpark of 12”x10”x1/4”. As I see it, my options are to resaw by hand using a 22”-26” panel rip saw (need to purchase, and wouldn’t mind the workout), 10” bandsaw like the Rikon 10-306 (also need to purchase, would not take up too much valuable shop space, and would get me by until my shop space situation improves, which could be a while), or take a 20 minute drive to my buddy’s house to use his bandsaw. The major concern I have about using his bandsaw is running the risk of the resawn boards cupping due to the environmental differences between our shops. The order of my preferences are: using my buddy’s bandsaw first, followed by resawing by hand, and then buying the 10” bandsaw. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks! - John
2) How flat is your outfeed/assembly table?
I just made a 4’x6’ torsion box top for my outfeed / assembly table to maximize shop space. It didn’t come out as planned is if off as much at 1/64th in some places. Not sure what happened. It Seems to be flat along the length (according to my Veritas straightedge) but for some reason not across
Seems to be about a 6” strip along one long side that is about 1/64 lower than the rest of the table. -Ray
Huy:
1) My first question is related to the different furniture styles. I hope to one day become a fine furniture maker myself so I am trying to learn more about the various styles (i.e. shaker, green and green, arts and crafts, danish/mid century modern, etc...) I feel that I am starting to get a good idea of what "defines" these styles but if you can provide any additional info on it that would be awesome.
Specifically, one thing I struggle with is how wood selection relates to the different styles. I have heard statements before like "I considered making the piece out of Oak but that would take it to a more arts-and-crafts style" and I am a little unclear on how a piece can change styles based on wood selection even though the design is seemingly unchanged. -Bojan
2) I have another. Ive been woodworking for two years and i try to tackle a new skill each project. I love learning and love pumping out new pieces. My focus has been on the design and build phase. One area I can’t seem to care about is joinery. Is there anything wrong with dowel construction? I find the DowelMax gives me piston fit joints that are easy, quick and dead square. But sometimes I feel like a hack for not doing more complicated work. The tests I’ve seen show that dowels when used properly are equally as strong as M and T and stronger than dominos. Am I missing out? Can one still build “fine furniture” without M/T’s? Or should I man up and pull out the chisels? -Tanc
Social Media Picks:
Guy: @marcadamsschoolofwoodworking
Sean: @Pedullastudio
Thursday Sep 12, 2019
Thursday Sep 12, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Questions
Guys
1) I would like to have a better understanding of what is safe and what isn’t when cross cutting on the table saw.
I have seen lots of videos and read lots of articles that mention how dangerous cross cutting on the table saw can be when the aspect ratio of the work is such that the distance between the blade and the fence exceeds the length of the edge that is against the fence. This makes perfect sense to me as you want to avoid the possibility of the work twisting between the blade and fence and kicking back.
However, there are countless videos of supposedly knowledgeable woodworkers breaking down sheet goods and violating this aspect ratio rule. Do these rules not really apply when breaking down sheet goods for some reason?
2) Hello, I just picked up a Incra Ls positioner fence at a yard sale for $20, (they didn't know what it was). My question is when do you choose to use the Incra verses using your dovetail jig? I don't currently have a dovetail jig, are there some situations where a dovetail jig would be better? Any general discussion on the Incra would be great. Thanks, keep up the good work, the podcast has been excellent! - Travis
Seans
1) This is a router operation question. I was recently making a new jig for a project that required that I cut a long slot all the way through a piece that would allow a bolt to slide along that piece. (The piece is 16 by 2 and is about 5/4 thick. I was cutting a 1/4 slot that ran in the middle of the piece for about 15 inches. It would allow bolts to pass through the piece and then it could slide along the bolts so that it's position can be adjusted. Hope that makes sense)
I was using a 1/4 inch straight cutting bit in a router and making the cut in multiple passes. I had the cutting speed set relatively high (somewhere around 20,000 - 24,000 RPM) and was going about an 1/8 deep per pass. I was using a cheap bit so I was running in shallower passes than I would have thought necessary knowing that the performance of the bit is probably going to be lacking. Despite my best efforts the bit snapped off...Luckily it stayed in the groove I was cutting and did not become a projectile and there was no damage to the tool or the piece.
The situation raised a few questions for me:
1. How deep would you plunge that size a bit and expect it to cut without any safety or performance concerns? (my piece was laminated baltic birch ply if the material makes a difference. Bit was a 1/4 inch, 1/4 shank straight cutting bit.)
2. Is there something I should be doing in this type of situation to prevent this outcome? I had inserted the bit fully into the collet, I had set it to what I thought was an appropriate speed for it's size and I went shallow with my cuts not to stress it too much. Did I do the right things there? Other than getting a better bit, what would you do differently?
2) Hi Guys,
My question is about Joiner fences. I picked up an old 6" Delta Shop Master a few years that was in great condition, except that the fence on the outfeed side is welded to the table. I've never had the need to change the fence's angle (it's welded and calibrated to 90°) but I could see adjusting it's depth to reduce wear on my straight blades.
Do you guys find your self moving the fence often, or at all and if so, why?
Thanks for sharing your expertise and furthering our craft! Justin
Huys
1) Ahoy fellas. Absolutely love the podcast, been listening for a long time... BUT first time question for you.
Router Slab jigs. I'm getting ready to do an epoxy table and have seen plenty of "how to" videos on building your own on the Tube of You. But none of them explain how to set them up. What exactly needs to be parallel? Do I need a perfectly flat surface to set my piece on or no? I'm guessing as long as I shim my workpiece, I'll be fine. But then do I also have to make sure the piece is roughly on the same plane as the rails?
Overall my main worry is getting finished and I have one side of my table thinner than the other.
What am I missing?
Appreciate it! Keep up the GREAT work. Paul
2) Gonna keep this one simple. What is your favorite style of furniture to you enjoy building? Second part, what is your favorite period of furniture if it differs from what you enjoy building?
Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!
Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking
Social Media Mentions
Sean: @christopherscottfurniture
Guy: @Karlholm.design
Thursday Aug 29, 2019
Thursday Aug 29, 2019
Support us on Patreon:https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) I’ve always valued the information y’all share on the podcast and this one popped into my head.
Sitting at work today as I was looking for the end of the internet I went down the rabbit hole of different wood glues. After going down the rabbit hole there was a lot of things that actually made sense for using different glues for different applications. I have always just used titebond 3 because it just seems like the most versatile of any other glue out there. It’s water resistant and food safe so why have 15 different glues for 1000 different applications. As I grow more and more into the trade it leads me to wanting to move more toward the more tried and true methods that some of the most reputable woodworkers have proved to be the best practices for certain applications. Leading into the question, (minus brands if you don’t want to go there) What types of glues do you migrate to the most and what is the reason for that? Is it a certain type of glue for a certain application or do you sort of do like me and stick with a particular glue for any project you make? Would you design a project and decide that you’re going to use a certain type of glue for it over another?
Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!
Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking
2) Re: your pick for the ETS125 - is that just a smaller Rotex 150 basically? Why not use RO150 to cover more area? I only have the RO150 and the triangle shaped one... DTS?? JJ
Seans Questions:
1) I've got a large hole in a piece of ash. I'm not sure what to do with it. Other than. Fill with a black epoxy because the top will be stained pretty dark. I'm just worried it will be a really dark spot -Casey
2) Hi Guys,
I am working on an entry table with through mortise and tenon joints with the tenon as a show feature. I am cutting the mortises using a drill press and cleaning up with chisels. I tried a sample piece and it does not look great. Is there a good technique to get a near perfect joint? Or will I be okay filling in the cracks with sawdust/glue filler trick? What do you recommend?
Thanks for the advice. Keep up the great podcast!
Thanks,
James
Huys Questions:
1) My son had a black walnut cut down last October. The arborist also had a portable mill so he milled up a number of slabs for me. I have kept these slabs in my garage since then. They are stickered and I put three ratchet straps around the pile to hopefully keep them flat. When is the right time to move them into the house? Is it ok to keep them in the garage? Have you guys harvested any lumber like this? I know Cremona has a process but I want to know what normal people do! JK! I love Cremona
I've really enjoyed the format of the podcast. I listen to a number of them and I have to say this is on the top of the list.
David
2) I’ve been commissioned to restore a round oak table with several leafs and 6 chairs....built in the early 1900’s!
I’m excited for this project but restoration is still somewhat new to me. The table does have some water marks and other blushing on the finish, it I still don’t know what the finish is. I’d like to stay away from heavier solvents to avoid damaging the wood.
Would going straight to an orbital sander or by hand with 120 be my best bet to get through safely? And if I wanted to try and remove a layer with a stripper of sorts, would I just guess between the mineral spirits or alcohols?
Would love to hear your thoughts on this!
Joey from Winter Wolf Woodworking
Our Social Picks:
Huy: @plakotoris_studio
Guy: @stenewoodwork
Sean: @MrCabinetMaker
Thursday Aug 15, 2019
Thursday Aug 15, 2019
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys Questions:
1) Do you believe a grounding wire is required for home/hobby dust collection systems ? Eric
2) Hi Guys, love the podcast. I have a question on pricing / bidding your work. Do you have a standard formula, eg. 4x material? Do you ask the potential client how much they’re looking to spend and see if you can do it profitably? Any banter and guidance on the subject would be appreciated. Hope to make it into the podcast. Best, Will
Seans Questions:
1) Hello guys, first of all great podcast, the questions are always my favourite part of any podcast so I really love your format. My question is regarding a standard drum sander vs. an orbital drum sander. I have seen a few on Craigslist for sale- the one I'm considering is a 2010 Jet 22-44max for $400. In doing research I see a lot of the new models are random orbit. Will this make a huge difference? I'm on a budget so a new machine isn't going to happen and I haven't seen any used random orbit models for sale. -Travis
2)Hey Guys!!!! A big fan of all 3 of you and love the show!!!!
Question for all of you...What brand of router bits do you prefer? With there being tons out there, which one is your go-to brand of bits? Whiteside, Freud, Amana, CMT, Irwin, etc... I hear lots of tool reviews out there, but never a really lot on router bits.
I would love to hear your thoughts on it and see which ones you guys like.
Keep the podcast coming!!!!
Nick
Huys Questions:
1) Not liking the end of day cough, I've been investing in dust collection. I use a Festool dust extractor for small tools. I run a WEN air filter. I have built a DIY cyclone separator out of an older JET 30um bag collector. The one tool that still throws dust all over me and into the air is my Sawtop table saw. I'm thinking of investing in ovehead dust collection, but I'm wondering if it is practical, effective, and worth the investment. As I think Sean has the sawstop dust collection guard, I'm wondering how well it works or if there are better alternatives. What is your experience?
John from AZ
2) Are there any pieces of furniture that are in your home that you wish you had not bought/made? I often look at the furniture that I bought from a certain Swedish brand and wish I had the time to make something nicer/better. Thanks guys, love the pod and keep up the great work. Paul
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Thursday Aug 01, 2019
Thursday Aug 01, 2019
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Guys Questions:
1) Would also like to get either an Incra Miter Sled or Miter Gauge. I see they have a sled/gauge combo or a sled with an integral miter gauge. Can you discuss the pros and cons of each option? - David
2) For Router table use is there really a difference when using a pattern bit vs a flush-trim bit when you want to flush an edge up with a template? Does riding the bearing on top vs on the bottom cause any safety concern? Does one leave a better/worse edge or does it even matter? Thanks, Ryan
Seans Questions:
1) Hey guys, love the podcast. Especially listening to guy, because I feel like I'm listening to myself from the future. In response to your recent call for more questions, I have one about tool sharpening. Specifically, what kind of honing jig to buy. I see there are a lot of them out there, but do you have any recommendations on a specific one to get. I'm getting into more hand tool work, and I want to be able to maintain my own chisels, as well as restore some old hand planes that I have. Any advice you may have is much appreciated. Thanks again for being willing to share your knowledge and experience. -Tavis
2) You've mentioned some of the books you've relied on, and I appreciate that, since I'm a green-as-grass beginner, and benefit from any source of information I can get. I'd also like to hear you talk about what mentors or teachers you had who helped shape your skills. Have any of you taken formal classes or gone to woodworking schools? I know that the best way to develop skills is by building furniture and learning from mistakes, but I also hope to participate in a class sometime, if only to find an active woodworking community. - Martin
Huys Questions:
1) I've recently bought a good planer/jointer combo machine. It uses 3 planer knives in the cutter block. I won't be using it enough to consider an upgrade to some sort of helical cutterhead. So I've been thinking about a practical way to sharpen the knives. I've come to a jig, some sort of wooden block with an insert for one knife. The top surface of the block is tilted in such a way that my water stones have support for the correct angle when I use them to sharpen the edge.
The jig works, but I wonder if there is a more practical (faster) way to sharpen. I see that Tormek sells a sharpening system that does this, but since it costs more than the helical cutter block, I find that too expensive.
My question: do you know of an affordable sharpening system for planer knives (mine are 10" long)? - Bart
2) Looking at finishing the top I was going to use epiphanies spar varnish but was wary of using this finish because of UV resistance. Would this inhibit the natural darkening of Cherry? My other option was General finishes ARM R seal or Waterlox. I don’t have way to spray so conversion varnish is out of the question.
My other thought was to dye the slab with Lye and use the Epifanes.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks
Jesse
Beechland Furniture
Social Picks
Guy: @kingposttimberworks
Sean: @hawthorne_fine_boxes
Huy: @affinecreations