Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking
Episodes
Thursday Oct 08, 2020
Thursday Oct 08, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) I've been woodworking nearly 4 years and do it as a part time business. This year, business has really taken off and I'm getting several large commissions. Because of this, I finally pulled the trigger on a Fuji Q5 Platinum HVLP. I figured if I was gonna spray... go all the way. My question for you gentlemen: I am convinced that Conversion Varnish is a very high quality finish I would like to use; do you all have any that you have used any loved? Any that you hate? Since many are water-based, should I spray shellac first to pop the grain? Thank you! Nathan
2) Hey Guys. Table saw technique question for you: when ripping narrow stock from a wider board do you prefer the narrow rip against the fence (let’s say it’s a 2” rip for discussion purposes) when ripping down a wide board or do you prefer to keep the wide board between the fence and the blade and use a stop block or a thin rip block and constantly move the fence? Assuming the thin rip against the fence is more accurate but are either techniques safer? Ben
Sean
1) Hey I love your guys show. You guys are lucky to have Guy on your staff. Every act needs a straight man. He's a good one. LOL so my question is this. In making tabletops is there a standard width of board you prefer. That is, if you have to cut down something wider you typically go for a 8in wide board, 6 in, 12 in. board? - Marlan
2) I’m probably going to get one of the Rigid oscillating belt and spindle sanders that everyone seems to like a lot. But I’ve also had my eye on a 12 inch disc sander. Mainly now I will be using them to sand to lines on curves cut with a bandsaw. Wondering what I would be able to to do in addition to that if I had the disc sander, or whether it’s overkill to have both. Thanks, and don’t let Guy answer my question first :) Just kidding — you’re great, Guy! - Adam
Huy
1) Can you share any info or help for vacuum hoses? How many sizes are there? I have 7 different types of shop vacs ( some for the shop, some for job sites and one for water) and it seems like every one has a different size hose. I have reducers and tons of other fittings, but it seems like half the time I am taping them to the tool I am using. Is this a common problem? I also have 2 portable dust Collectors. I thought about painting each size a different color and then just match them up - Tomakazi
2) I picked up a Festool TS55 last fall, and have been slowly getting more familiar with it. I'm working towards getting an MFT style top for an outfeed table, and came across an older (2013?) video on Guy's YT channel showing a setup using an Incra fence with stops on an MFT outfeed table. I'm curious if you still use that sort of setup, and if you'd go with the same method for attaching the fence today vs. something like the FenceDogs from BenchDogs.uk or PrecisionDogs.us (not released yet). Any discussion on using a track saw on an MFT type table for cross cuts, with stops, etc. would be welcome. -Monte
Thursday Sep 24, 2020
Thursday Sep 24, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) I've been building small furniture projects (Shaker tables, end tables, walnut table, lounge chairs) in my hobby shop using a skill saw or a hand saw when a bandsaw has been called for. My furniture projects are getting more complicated (a dresser, more lounge chairs) and I'm thinking it is time to get a bandsaw. But which one? I don't see me doing much resawing, although I don't want to completely foreclose that possibility. I've thought about the following options: Jet 14 inch deluxe pro (1.25 hp, $1000), Grizzly GO555LX 14 inch (1 hp, $750), and Rikon table top deluxe 10 inch (0.5 hp, $440). I note that Lowe's also has a Porter Cable 13 inch and a Delta 13 inch, but at their price point I think I'd be better off with the Grizzly. What are your thoughts? Many thanks. ...Tom
2) Hey fellas, big fan of the show. Really enjoy the “specificity” you bring to the craft. Question: you guys talk about not trusting your mitre saws for accurate cross cuts (kapex excluded). So I assume your trusted method is with a table saw. How do you manage getting accurate cuts on large pieces. I know trying to shave a 1/8” off of the end of a 8ft x 6 x 4/4 piece of lumber is not easily done with a mitre jig or a sled on a table saw. How do you get that perfect 90 on something other than a mitre saw on large and long stock? P.S. I don’t trust my mitre saw either. -Zach
Sean
1) I really enjoy the podcast and I always learn a lot listening to your show. My question is about finishing. I have been noticing that several woodworkers that I follow apply a glossy clear coat for the first few layers and then they will finish with a semi-gloss clear coat. What is the purpose of starting with a "shinier" coat and then finish with a "less" shiny coat? Thanks in advance...Josh
2) Love the show, I have heard throughout several episodes of each of you stocking up on hundreds of board feet of lumber for potential future projects. Is there a specific dimension, specifically thickness and length that you typically look for? I’m assuming that in order to achieve a specific width, you can always glue boards together, but for posts or say table legs, is this what you do as well? Or for those specific projects do you just custom order a thicker stock in order to get the desired thickness. Hope my question makes any sense, apologize if it is basic. Keep the episodes coming!! Christopher
Huy
1) I am a retired rocket scientist who now obsesses over furniture rather than missiles which means I take precision to meaningless extremes. I am replacing my 1977 Craftsman with a Powermatic 64B bought sight unseen. I have a Vega 50” fence which I like quite a bit. The Craftsman will be donated to Habitat. Which of the two fences should I send along to Habitat or are they just a horse apiece?
My skill level is intermediate. If at all helpful the items I make are cabinets and tables used either at home or donated for charity auctions. The blade is a WW2, Bench Dog router table for the left wing.
bob
2) if I got one of those EXPENSIVE Forest Woodworker II combination blades (the modified one with a flat bottom cut), would I fall out of love with blade changes? Are they really that much better that I wouldn't feel the need to change that I do now? I much prefer the cuts I'm getting now with the specific grinds compared to combination blades I've used in the past (the better quality "home center" brands).
Is there a time, even with those expensive combination blades, that you all go back to a specifically rip or crosscut blade?
Thanks for any input!
Peter
Thursday Sep 10, 2020
Thursday Sep 10, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) I’m writing about a project where we are making a table and using white oak for the first time. While most boards looked great throughout the milling process, we found that a few board exposed a lot of very small short cracks or voids along the “rays”. I’ve seen this a lot working with heart pine which i have epoxied.
How common is this and how do you deal with. Thanks, Mike @ Sibley Manor Woodworks
2) Greetings, love the show. How do each of you feel about hand held belt sanders? (3"X 21" for example). Some fine woodworkers swear by them for projects such as table tops, while others won't even touch them for the hatred of the uneven marks they can leave behind, and relegate them to rough construction only. From my experience I'm in the latter category, although I admit I may not be using the machine properly/correct technique. Are there any special tips or 'insider' knowledge on how to avoid the dips/valleys they leave behind? Or should I go ahead and list my belt sander on Craigslist and be done with it?
MLBETT Wood Works
Sean
1)Hey Guy(s),
Your podcast is great. Thanks for all the help.
I am in the process of building a detached garage. Part of it is going to be a shop area. It’s not going to be a big shop area by any means (15’x25’). I’m planning on making some cabinets and furniture for our future house (kitchen cabinets, vanities, tables, bar area). Currently, I borrow other friends and family members equipment when doing project due to my limited space in town. My question is, what equipment do you recommend for my shop? I realize you need more information so I’ll explain what I have and a budget. I’m looking to spend around $2000-$2,500. I don’t have many tools but here is what I have - 10” compound sliding miter saw from Harbor Freight that cuts a little off, cordless drills, circular saw with clamp edge guide, jig saw, and a 1/4” trim router. These tools got me by for small projects but I think it’s time to upgrade.
Thanks for the help!
Casey
2) Hey guys I love the podcast and what you’re doing to help the woodworking community.
About two years ago I finished my walnut dinning room table. It was my first major project in years since my high school shop days. I learned a lot doing it. But as always made mistakes.
I made my table using breadboard ends and I used third coast craftsman’s video as inspiration for the construction of my breadboard ends. After I assembled my table I noticed small gaps between my top and breadboard ends. I was wondering if you could think of any ideas to fix those gaps. I appreciate the time. Thanks guys. - Trent
Huy
1) Hey guys - I am in the process of building a shed (my new workshop). It's going to be 12x16. I will have full 8ft walls and a 7x5 steel rollup door (like the ones you see at storage units) and it will be insulated however most likely not climate controlled 24/7.
My main question is about lumber storage. since it won't be climate controlled 24/7 should I be storing lumber in the shop or think about storing it elsewhere. Typically I will only have on hand what I need for the current project or 2.
Any suggestions on maximizing storage in this small space? John
2) I recently bought some CA glue and activator, as I was reading the label it said that it needed to be kept in a cool place and even suggested storing it in the fridge. Then I remembered that I heard that PVA glue can go bad if left in a place that is to hot. Where do you guys store your adhesives? -Rick
Thursday Aug 27, 2020
Thursday Aug 27, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) Next question: how much time do you spend working on workflow and process in the shop? I’m a night and weekend woodworker who is taking commission orders now and want to ensure I maximize my time in the shop to be the most effective. What are some tips tricks or source material you might suggest? Maybe Guy can lend an answer to this, as he is working in a full time production shop. Also, just down the road from you Guy, in Noblesville. Thanks in advance! -Thelibertycraftsman
2) Hi Guy, love the podcast. I have a question about the Festool Kapex. I’m about to purchase a new miter saw and am between the Kapex or the Bosch glider. The only concern I have are some of the comments about the handle shape on the Kapex. Since you use it I’d like your opinion. It is expensive and want to be sure it’s worth it. I would really like a precision miter saw. Thanks you all and love the show. Anthony
Sean
1) I have the opportunity to get my hands on some ash trees that will be felled due to the emerald ash borer. I will have these trees slabbed and kiln dried by a local sawmill.
I am fairly new to woodworking and I am primarily a hand tool user.
My question for you guys is what are your thoughts on using ash to build either a Roubo style workbench. Is ash dense/heavy enough to be used as workbench.
Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Carlos @alberto_woodworks
2) Have you ever heard of anyone hiring someone for a weekend to come to your house and help make adjustments on multiple machines? My tablesaw, bandsaw, jointer and planer all work but could benefit from someone with experience double checking things and making minor adjustments. I know that every machine has its own quirks so finding someone that knows my exact models would be difficult but I feel as though someone with more experience could make a big impact in a short period of time.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. - Evan
Huy
1) Hey guys my name is Anthony S. I am a novice woodworker with a focus on medieval furniture for the house and camp as my wife and I are part of a living history group. We are looking for our first house. I would like to have one area of the house for a workshop. I use quite a few power tools in my work now and will hope to get a tablesaw and drill press after the house. I know I should be concerned with ventilation and dust collection, which will be determined by where in the house the workshop is, but I am hoping for it to be in the garage. I was wondering what else should we be looking for in a workshop space when house hunting.
2) I have a chance to buy a second hand Felder AF22 dust extractor. It is a 2.2kw 3HP machine but it has a three phase motor in it (I’m in the UK). Putting in three phase power is prohibitively expensive.
Do you have any experience of running a three phase machine with a VFD (preferably an inexpensive Chinese one) and can I use a remote control switch to activate it from my table saw. Many thanks, Mark
Information mentioned in the podcast from Huy: Acogedor AC 220V 2.2KW VFD Motor Inverter Speed Controller,Variable Frequency Drive with Wireless Remote Control
Thursday Aug 13, 2020
Thursday Aug 13, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guys
1) I had a question for you about staining frame and panel doors. A few months back I made a few cabinets that I wanted to match reasonably well with existing kitchen cabinets (made from birch). Everything was going well but when I came to staining the wood I ran into issues. I had tested a few stains on a piece of the birch I was using for the face-frames/rails-stiles and found Varithane premium fast dry interior wood stain (color: kona) had a close enough color to the existing cabinets that the difference should't be noticed as the cabinets were going in different rooms. After the wipe on, let sit for a few minutes, and wipe off process I discovered that the panels of the doors were significantly darker than the rails and stiles. I tried a second application of stain to just the frame to try to darken them to even out the coloring but that didn't do much. The wood for the rails and styles was solid birch that I ran through a thickness plainer, assembled, ran through a drum sander, and then sanded with a random orbit sander to 220. The panels were 6mm baltic birch that I sanded with a random orbit sander to 220. I should also mention that I got the wood from a local reputable hardwood dealer, not from a home center. I also used an air compressor to blow of any trapped dust from the doors before staining.
What did I do wrong? I would've been happy if the whole door was either the lighter color, or the darker color, but with the light frame and the dark panel, it just doesn't look right. The only thing that makes sense to me is that the surface structure of the top veneer on the birch plywood was more porous and thus able to absorb more stain. But what do pros do in order to get the same color on solid wood and also veneered wood?
Thanks again for the great podcast.
Cheers,
Gavin
2) I’ve been woodworking for about 2 years now and in that time I’ve been primarily using white oak (with occasional use of Ash, Hard Maple & Walnut), but I’m at a loss when it comes to adding finish; I’m simply unsure where to start, so I don’t use any. So could you help me, please? I do understand that after listening to your podcast from the beginning, that this subject is a bit of a mine field and you’ve covered it numerous times for other listeners, but for someone starting out who would like to use low VOC finishes (to protect my asthmatic Wife), what would you recommend starting with, please?
Thanks in advance and keep up the great work.
Sean
1) I’m building a planer sled for my Dewalt 735 to do face jointing. Do I attach the ‘stop’/‘fence’ part to the leading or trailing edge? I’ve seen it done both ways on YouTube. What in the world is the correct way? Thanks in advance and I’m a big fan of the podcast and all of your work!
Thanks again, Jason Ruffino SkinnyDogShop
2) Recently built a router table/cabinet because my wife doesn’t know enough about woodworking to stop me from adding to my shop, for now at least.
The carcass came together nicely, all 3/4” birch ply with pocket screws (shop furniture so it’s not blasphemy). It was all square and seemed right until the drawers came into play. In total there are 5 drawers - 2 over/under on the bottom left, 1 bigger bottom right, and one on each side of where the router/lift goes. The drawers themselves seem to measure square, unless my public school math is failing me! However some of the drawers seem to be harder to pull in and out. I’m using the full extension drawer slides from Home Depot. Also, when the drawer fronts are attached, they seem to be a little wonky when spaced correctly and some won’t close flush. -Joey
Huy
1) Hi woodshop guys. I have a question about case construction. Ive started building my shop with mobile carts, one for my saw/mitre saw/ router etc. I recently started using pocket holes screws since they are bang around shop carts and i wanted to make them as quickly as possible. My question is what is the best construction bottom and top sandwiched between side panels? Or bottom and tops sitting on top of side panels leaving edge exposed. I add a strong back on each case. Ive seen cases made both ways, so I wonder what you guys think. - Bigsquidy
2) Got a question for your awesome podcast: how do you hold small parts when using a plough plane to make the groove for a drawer bottom? Aaron
Thursday Jul 30, 2020
Thursday Jul 30, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1)When is the right time to pull the trigger? I'm currently using an old Grizzly 6" jointer that works fine but limits me in terms of both width and length of stock. What measurements or guidelines do you all use to determine when it's time to upgrade your shop equipment? Joel
2) Right now I've really been trying to take time to learn and be comfortable with the foundational skills; practicing cuts and joinery. Do you have any tips on how to make more accurate angled cuts? For example, I started just making and octagon shaped frame this weekend. Getting all angles and lengths to perfectly match took way too many attempts 🤦♂️. Is this something you prefer a miter saw or table saw for? Any tools or accessories you suggest using that can be used to double check your saw blades are at the proper angle? Etc. Right now I have a cheap miter saw and a dewalt jobsite table saw. I know the tools aren't the best, but I'm sure there are some things I could start doing and making into habits to get better as I start into this new hobby!
Thanks
Brandon
Sean
1) Hey guys, could you recommend a mobile (2 stage) dust collection system for a hobbyist woodworker? I’m not looking to wall mount as I’m both, in a small space, and not in my “forever” shop. Perhaps DIY (where to start?) or from any brands is suitable. I don’t really know where to begin. Currently run a jobsite table saw, and looking to add a jointer and planer soon. 4” intake is preferred. Thanks! RJ
2) Questions for the podcast: is the Festool Domino worth it? Context: building a bar and stools out of 8/4 ash and need something to quickly join the legs of the stools together, as well as the bar and legs. I originally thought dowels or router out for loose mortise and tenon, but time is money, literally, as this is a project for a client. Should I spend the $1000+ for the domino, and save time, which allows me to get other client projects done (could use the domino on some of those projects too) or, save the $1000k, do it with dowels or a router and then spend the $1000+ on a delta tablesaw and a dewalt 735x planer? Planer would need to be on sale for the numbers to line up (bad at math!). I currently have a 1/2 hp craftsman table saw with upgraded fence. Thoughts? Thanks! Love the podcast! Thelibertycraftsman
Huy
1)Thanks for the time you invest in the podcast. I have been woodworking a long time but I am still learning. I do not make furniture but I still pick up lots of tips from you three. I am new to the bandsaw. I have a Laguna 14 Twelve. I mainly resaw logs for bowl blanks, since I do a lot of turning. I have been using a Laguna Proforce 3/4" 3 tpi. The blade broke though it is only a couple months old and I have only milled about 3 dozen blanks. What are the causes for such a blade to break? I would appreciate any insight, so as to avoid breaking the new blade. Thanks. -Mark
2)The talk about bringing all sorts of lumber into your shop, like from a pile outdoors under a tin cover, has me wondering about contamination. Basically, were talking about a biodegradable material here, which starts growing microbial life on, in, and off it as soon as the tree dies. So is there ever any danger of bringing wood into your storage which infects your entire stock? Relatedly, should we never machine any rotting material because that would make the fungus etc airborne and infect the whole shop? -Warren
Thursday Jul 16, 2020
Thursday Jul 16, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) What method do you guys use for waterfall joints (besides domino) and are biscuits and glue strong enough? Nick
2) I picked up 4 slabs of white oak that measure about 10 ft by 15” wide and 2 1/4” thick. I set up a router sled leveled everything on saw horses and as it turns out a couple of the slabs have a twist of about an 1”. Or a bow of about an 1” at either end. I wanted to keep the slabs as thick as possible and I don’t think a 1” top would look right. I ripped one down to about 12” to try to reduce the twist and route off a small amount but it still has a fair amount of twist and would require a lot of material to be removed.
How would you handle these slabs? Flatten one side with the router sled and leave the bottom slightly out to keep the thickness. Rip them down to smaller widths that I could handle on my 6” jointer, in hopes to keep the thickness at 1.5”. BTW this will be a PITA but could be done with roller stands/roller conveyers. Screw it and leave the twist/bow smooth out what I can with a power planer and go with it. I don’t have access to a large shop with a belt sander.
Thanks
Jesse
Guy
1) Hi guys! Been listening since the beginning and love the show, but I’m still a beginner and recently got a bandsaw (Rikon 10-326, brand new 3/4” Timberwolf resaw blade) which I’m trying to use for resawing. A friend gave me a bunch of purpleheart to resaw for him, and ... it didn’t go well. So my questions:
- Do you prefer to resaw using a “point fence” or just the bandsaw’s normal fence? The normal fence gave me an awful lot of drift with the purpleheart.
- Is it better to keep the piece you’re resawing off (the piece with the thickness you want) next to the fence or on the side of the blade without the fence? The former seems preferable for repeatable cuts, but it seems like you quickly lose a reference surface on the third cut?
- Is it possible that I had so much trouble because I was resawing a hard wood like purpleheart and dulled my blade really quickly? Or is resawing a lot more fussy than you all make it look on YouTube? :)
Thank you, and for what it’s worth, I’ve followed the Snodgrass advice on setting up the guides and I’m pretty sure I got that right. - Adam
2) Guy, as I've improved as a woodworker, I'm getting more requests for building custom furniture, or recreating a design someone has seen online. This means I need to get serious about cost. You guys have discussed cost of various projects in a previous episode, which was helpful, but still vague enough to leave me scratching my head at times. I recognize that you don't want to tell the podcast how much you might make on a project—I get it. So, I'm going to list a project here (not one I'm currently making), hoping to hear you think through materials, time, etc. As a professional, what would you charge for this piece? What should an amateur charge for this piece?:
- Project: Round breakfast table
- Wood: solid cherry
- Size: 42" diameter, 1" thickness
- Base: something like what Andy Rawls made here, just not as beefy: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bg9tf4_jyRr/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
- Joinery for the base would utilize the Festool Domino
- I live in SE Texas, and rough cherry is around $5 bd. Ft.
Josh
Huy
1) Hey guys...I am making a Morris chair out of cherry. Being a novice woodworker, this is my first substantial project. I'm having problems with snipe with my delta 22-555 13" planer. I keep adjusting the infeed and outfeed tables , but still getting the darn snipe. Any suggestions? Also, how much thicker should pieces of wood be, to obtain a desired thickness?
https://woodgears.ca/jointer/planer_snipe.html
Also, the arms of the chair are a gentle bent lamination. I built a bending form and
wondering if you can go through the process, from resawing (what thickness), to assembly, clamping, what glue you use, etc. Final thickness of the arm is inch and an eighth thick.
Keep up the good work.
Dale from Muskego, Wi.
Thursday Jul 02, 2020
Thursday Jul 02, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) I've recently upgraded/downgraded from a Delta 3 phase 5hp unisaw right tilt (mucho power, not much safety) to a Sawstop 3hp left tilt (less power- more safety ). Is there any difference in approaching cuts for the left vs. right tilt? My crosscut sled has to be remade, I have to rework the mitre bar on my Delta (Buick sized) tenoning jig, etc. In the past, I've used the mitre bar on the left side for crosscutting -so the blade tilts away from the support fence. Do I start using it on the right side of the blade so it tilts away from the support fence? Eric
2) Since I'm planning to soon purchase some of these tools I would like your thoughts/recommendations for purchasing all Incra, all Woodpecker or a mix of both. I would also like to know which five or six measuring devices you would recommend if it were for your own shop as I'm not exactly sure what I need. I realize this may not be a fair ask given that Incra and/or Woodpecker are sponsors for some or all of you. Jack
Sean
1) I am gluing up 3 boards, each board being 1” thick x 8’long x 6” wide. I do not have a flat surface that big to do a glue up on. Do you have any recommendations on how to ensure a flat glue up? Nick
2) What’s the most useless thing you’ve bought for your shop? I’m not even going to try to explain this one. You know you bought something that you haven’t touched since you bought it. Guy.... you’re old... you know you have things you’ve bought for that one job and didn’t even use it then. What is it? Brent Jarvis
Huy
1) For everyone: It seems that all three of you work in your garage. What are your best storage saving tips? Josh
2) Hi guys. I really appreciate everything you guys have put out. I’m a beginner to wood working. Been doing this about 4 years. I have a to. Of questions that I’d love to get your perspective on. I have a shop space that is 24 x 30. When I first started woods working I was out of a garage 1/4 of the size on was very intrigued by the Shopsmith. What are your thoughts on a 5 or 7 in one machine? I really enjoy the option for a lathe. And a quick flip to a drill press. - Kyle
Thursday Jun 18, 2020
Thursday Jun 18, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) Hey guys. Question on horsepower for table saws. I’m slowly moving toward upgrading my table saw (I won’t mention the brand so Guy won’t have a reason to make fun of me but let’s just say I’m looking forward to not dying). I currently have a 1.5 hp older delta contractor saw. My question to you is what hp are your saws and if there is a major difference between 1.5 and 3 hp? I don’t work with a ton of 8/4 or bigger stock so I wouldn’t be putting thick stuff through. Thanks for any insight! Ben
2) First off just wanted to say I love the show! You are all talented and experienced woodworkers but all offer different viewpoints on how you like to get things done.
My question is about table saw upgrades. I’ve had a Ridgid R4512 table saw for about 2 years now. I enjoy it but I’m wondering about upgrades. I’m specifically thinking about dust collection and the fence. I know I want to get a zero clearance fence but also wondering about over arm dust collection? Would it be worth it for this saw? Any aftermarket over arm set ups you guys would recommend or have experience with? The other upgrade I’ve considered is a fence. I’ve found that at times I feel the fence on this saw might be a little inaccurate and it doesn’t have a lot of adjustments. Do you feel any of the aftermarket fence systems would be good for this saw? Any recommendations? Or would you recommend possibly saving money to just get a better saw in the future if you felt like the upgrades weren’t worth making to this saw.
Thanks for the time. Again, love the show.
Brian Bingham
Sean
1) I've seen a few people online build jointer sleds to edge joint and flatten boards. Can I actually get decent results out of a jointer sled in most cases? I assume using a jointer sled for processing a large amount of lumber would be a hassle compared to using a floor standing jointer, but what are the other limitations to using a jointer sled that I am not considering? Brock
2)
Still loving the show. I wrote in once before and you sold me on shellac finish for small boxes, and you made me a believer.
I do have a new question,
I'm building a dresser for my daughter and I'm not sure how to finish the job. The main carcass and drawers are mostly plywood with oak edge banding. I made the base out of oak and the drawer fronts will also be oak which I plan to stain to let the grain show through.
Do you guys normally finish the inside of the drawers in a dresser? If so, what do you use?
Also, I was going to paint the carcass(it's plywood, don't freak out), so I'm wondering if you have any tips on how to get that perfect painted finish on the carcass? I don't have a sprayer, and the budget is tight, so I won't be buying a fuji anytime soon, but any other tips are much appreciated!
Thanks, Scott
Huy
1) Love the podcast. Thanks for everything that you put into it. I recently resawed some 5/4 walnut, about 32" long, for some drawer faces (shop furniture). My plan was to resaw this and then glue up a panel to have continuous grain down the three drawers. The walnut had been in my shop for a few months and I got it from a reliable source, so I was pretty comfortable with the moisture, although I don't have a moisture meter. I had milled a face and an edge square, but as I was resawing it, the two pieces bowed significantly, to the point that they would require another round of milling, and getting 3/8" to 1/2" final thickness was not possible. Did I do something wrong, or is that to be expected when resawing something to that thickness? Chad
2) I am using a 3/8" diameter upcut spiral bit with a 1/2" diameter shank from Whiteside to make 1 1/8" deep mortises in some cherry. Whiteside says the bit is good for 1 1/4" deep. I am using the bit in the Porter Cable 690LR fixed base router. My questions: How deep a cut is recommended per pass? Is there any criteria out there for depth of cut?
Dave
Thursday Jun 04, 2020
Thursday Jun 04, 2020
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Guy
1) Hey guys, I have been wanting to switch over to water based spray finishes for awhile, since for the foreseeable future my shop will remain connected to the house. I either use a conversion varnish or danish oil then wax. Doing oil and wax is a great look but too time consuming for any real deadline. That leads to conversion varnish but that requires a nice day outside or for the wife and kids to leave the house for a little while (museum, zoo, park, etc) Neither is practical and plus I want to go to the zoo too.
The argument against water based varnishes is the clear/milky look instead of a rich deep glow. But couldn't you just spray an amber shellac coat first, sealing and giving the beautiful color that solvents give? Then finish with a quality water based coat, thinking Target Coatings EMTECH line.
Side note, I have used rubio and while I don't mind it on occasion (I know guy is not a fan), I hate having to mix and the lack of options for sheen.
Thanks team! - Patrick
2) I have heard you all talk about how much you love and use for MFT tables and top and I love mine for those sweet, square, 27" crosscuts. What I haven't figured out yet is how to utilize it for much of anything else. I think one of you mentioned it as an assembly table, but it would be awesome to hear more ideas on how you utilize it your shops.
Thanks! Jeremy
Sean
1) Help me settle a bet with my wife.
She thinks I'm quote unquote "injury prone" in the woodshop. I always have Band-Aids on my hands and arms. She jokes that I am 30% bandaid at all times. I wouldn't consider myself injury prone, other than that one chisel incident last summer (chisel into index knuckle, 10 stitches, yada yada yada).
My question is, on a normal day, how many minor injuries do you receive? Cuts, scrapes, splinters, scratches, anything that requires a bandaid. What do you consider the normal course of a day on this kind of thing? I need to explain to her that this kind of thing is just the cost of doing business.
Thanks again! - Eric
2) Hey Guys, Isaac from Teton Woodshop.
I have a question about drum sanders. I recently bought a drum sander because I don't like sanding (shocker) and I thought it would cut down on sanding time for panels. However I found it left deep scratches in the wood that took quite awhile to sand out with the random orbital sander. I am finding much easier to just make sure my boards are flat, line up the glue joints with dominos and sand with a random orbital sander without using the drum sander. This process seems much faster for me.
Am I missing something in my use of the drum sander? I hear it is a luxury to have in the shop but I find it being more of a nuisance than a luxury at this point. I'd love to hear about how you guys use it to see why you consider it a luxury and I consider it a large space taker in the shop.
Huy
1) Hey Gents, wanted to say you have an awesome show going. Wanted to know if you've ever held off on making something because you don't have a specific tool or upgraded tool? For instance I currently have a Dewalt jobsite table saw so not the most reliable or accurate saw and am saving up for a cabinet saw and think I'll be more comfortable making things then. Thanks again. - Paul
2) I bought a cordless Dewalt track saw. I picked it because of the two way track and you don’t have to spin the tracks around as much when breaking down plywood. It was my first track saw. Now, I’m realizing that I can’t use the after market accessories available to Festool tracksaw owners like the parallel guides and the 90 degree guide. Do you think these accessories are worth selling my Dewalt and getting the Festool? I would like to move to final cuts with the track saw as mentioned by Guy in the last episode. - Brian