Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking
Episodes
Thursday Jan 28, 2021
Thursday Jan 28, 2021
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) Hi, I just joined as a new patron and my name is Dale. I have been listening for a couple months and have tried spraying shellac on ambrosia maple. I sanded with 400 grit between each of 3 coats, then I sprayed a water based polyurethane as a final coat. I am new to spraying but what I found was that all of the vertical surfaces turned out great but I got a lot of nibs on the horizontal surfaces. Any idea why? -Dale
2) Going to be using General finishes Gel Stain on small toy chest. I've heard two different methods to prevent blotches; apply a mineral spirits slip coat prior to staining or apply shellac prior to staining. Is one better than the other? Thank, Brandon
Guy
1) Guy since you started working in the other, more commercial, shop:
How did working there change your behavior in your own shop? Are you faster now? Do you still treat your own projects the same way you did before working there?
Cheers from Austria, max
2) Hey Guys (and Guy specifically). I'm looking to possible build another router table (already have one in the wing of my table saw and love it) but being that I am for the time being in a smaller shop that everything has to be put away at night I need multi function. Looking at how the LS attaches to the table I was thinking I could remove the positioner (and put it on the wall) when not in use. Am I killing the whole function of the repeatability if I take it off and put it back on when I want to use it? Thank you, Doug
Huy
1)I have Question on wood glue. Usually I use Titebond but on the bottle it says it shouldn't be used in temperatures lower than 50 degrees. So are there any glues that work in temperatures below freezing? My shop has no heat and the I'm in northern Iowa so we'll go below zero before the winters over. Thanks for any advice you may have, keep the podcasts coming.
Josiah
2) Hi guys, first of all I sure have enjoyed your podcast and I have learned a tremendous amount. On a sidenote, my goal is to be just like Guy someday and be in a position in life to do whatever the hell I want and not give a damn what anybody thinks of me. I think it’s a noble goal. My question involves face joining boards. I wonder how much pressure I’m supposed to be pressing down on the board as it comes over the knives. Do I push down hard enough to take the spring out of the board? Or do I let it coast over naturally as to not take the spring out of the board? If I put too much pressure on the board it just springs back after it comes off the machine. But if I don’t put enough pressure on I don’t get clean results. I sure appreciate your help, and I look forward to hearing your answer. -- Bill
Thanks to this show's sponsor: Maverick Abrasives
Thursday Jan 14, 2021
Thursday Jan 14, 2021
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) Hi guys, huge fan of the podcast. I just have a question regarding sheet goods. I haven’t listened to every episode yet so I apologize if this was already covered. When I make cabinet carcasses I generally use some sort of store bought veneered plywood. I find it difficult finding plywood that is close to flat. It’s not as much of an issue when I break it down into smaller pieces, but when I make a larger cabinet it is very difficult to get square bc the plywood rarely straight. I put a face frame on it which Is square for the cabinets door/drawers, but often the carcass itself still has a bit of a visible curve in the panels. Any advice on his help improve this? -Timber Tables
2) Hey guys, love the show and appreciate how much you cover, unlike those other woodworking Podcasts 🙄. My question is about edge banding. Fastcap has a peel and stick edge banding (Fastedge). It’s obviously easier to apply than the iron-on banding, but is it as durable? Are there any downsides to this vs traditional edge banding?
Thanks,
Shannon
Nashville, TN
Sean
1) Is there anything you look at differently when you buy slabs to make into boards vs just buying actual boards? I have a saw mill somewhat close that I have actually gotten good prices on slabs. I don't use live edges and cut them off. Thanks, Ryan
2) I thought of a good question that might help some of us beginning woodworkers: I know that everyone makes mistakes (except Guy), but what kinds of mistakes do you see yourself making fewer and fewer of as you became seasoned pros? In other words, are there certain kinds of mistakes that you should find yourself growing out of as you develop as a woodworker? -Adam
Huy
1) Hello again! So I am going to be moving my shop to a new garage and I wanted to upgrade the flooring before I move my stuff in. It currently has a basic concrete floor with quite a few cracks. I was considering either using polyurea or epoxy, but wanted to get your insight and see what you guys currently use and also what you would upgrade to if you had the chance? Garage dog Woodworks
2) Hey guys! Thanks for the great podcast. I had a question about table-saw blade sizes. What are the pros and cons of 10 and 12 inch table saws? Is one better than the other? And if you could do it all over again would you choose a 12 inch saw as I know you all have 10 inch saws. -Jeff
Thursday Dec 31, 2020
Thursday Dec 31, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) Hey, Fellas! So in my last question, you recommended I keep an old but powerful Delta 15" planer. Good advice which I intend to follow. However, I'd like to ditch its steel mobile stand for something that offers more storage. The planer is approximately 400 lbs. so am I crazy for thinking I could build something out of milled 2x4 pine or douglas fir? I'd use all mortise and tenon construction and install heavy duty casters on the bottom for mobility. It would probably resemble Guy's mobile miter station but with a front and back and no flip top. I'd appreciate your advice!
Joel
2) Today I need your help! I am planing to build a small corner table. The top has the shape of a quarter circle with about a 16" radius.
To spice up the design (and challenge my woodworking skills) I want to put a drawer into the bowed apron. How do I go about cutting a precise and smooth opening for the drawer into this curved piece of wood? On a flat piece I would probably use a router template to clean up the rough cuts but I don't see how I could do this on a curved piece. Any ideas?
The apron will be a bent lamination, about 2.5 - 3" high, with the opening something like 1 3/4" by 8"
Jarmo from Germany
Sean
1) If you explained it any of your previous episodes, I missed it. I'd love to know how the three of you hooked up and what led to the collaboration on the podcast.
2) Is it ok to make and sell a piece of furniture using somebody else’s plans. For example say I buy project plans from wood whisperer guild, am I able to build and sell it? Or should I ask for permission from the designer of the plans first? Garagedog Woodworks
Links mentioned in podcast:
Huy
1) Hey I have a question... I seem to be unintentionally creating a SPRING JOINT when I run my work pieces through my table saw. It’s every piece, and it’s nearly every time. It’s exaggerated on longer pieces.
This is great for pieces that I’m actually gluing together but for others it’s a big pain to deal with. I’m not sure what it could be. I’m leaning towards it being a fence issue? I have a grizzly table saw with a standard fence. Any thoughts? Timberworks NY
2) I bought some ebony and cocobolo turning blanks for a really low price with the intention of using them for handles on small boxes. I’m assuming the wood has not been dried (still coated in wax). I’ve never really messed with green wood and I know it likes to warp and move as it dries. That said, with the pulls being a few inches long and maybe an ⅝” thick, would I have a cause for concern, or should I wait a couple years for it to completely dry?
-Jacob
Thursday Dec 17, 2020
Thursday Dec 17, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) I'm a part-time woodworker that does occasional commission work for a local distillery. Two weeks ago—after listening to several of your episodes discussing track saws and Guy's affinity for the MFT style table—I decided to purchase a TSC55 and MFT/3 for the shop; I wish I had done it sooner. The accuracy, setup, and ease of use of the MFT coupled with the dust collection of the TSC is a game changer. I want to get the most out of the MFT as far as work holding options and overall versatility, and I was curious if you have any recommendations on bench dogs? I've read about aluminum dogs (Qwas Dogs), stainless steel dogs (Perf Dogs), dogs with special track attachments, and even Woodpeckers sells a set of fancy red dogs with a wedge clamp system all in a nifty systainer. I typically work with 4/4 and 8/4 material, plywood (1/2" and 3/4"), and oak barrel staves. Is there a specific type of dog I should be looking at to get the most out of the MFT top and track system or am I overthinking this? Kind regards, Sean Fousheé (pronounced foo-shay)
2)Hey Guy, Huy, and Sean,
Could you explain the difference (in terms of function and application) between dust collectors, dust extractors, and shop vacuums? Why are dust extractors so much more expensive than shop vacuums? At what point is it worth the investment to get a dust extractor over a shop vacuum, especially if you also have invested in a dust collector for your larger stationary tools? Thanks, and keep up the great work with the show! Rob
Sean
1) Hey guys, love the podcast. I've been thinking of growing my skills to include hand planes as I have picked up quite a few from estate sales, most in good condition. Rust is a huge problem in my shop and I was curious how do you protect your hand planes? Any specific coating or routine you follow? Thanks for the great podcast! - Daniel
2) Hi guys...I'm making a Morris chair out of cherry. I'm ready to assemble, but before I do, I'm figuring out how to finish. I was listening to Guy speak about using a coat of garnet shellac and then a top coat of waterlox. Can you go into detail on this procedure, and any other favorite cherry wood finishing tips. Thanks so much.
Dale from Muskego
Huy
1)Very green to the craft I’ve built up my shop with a good stable of hand power tools, router table, job site saw, track saw etc. my shop is only partially insulated. I live in a humid area. Should I invest in getting it fully insulated and air tight before I invest in cast iron milling machines like bandsaw ,jointer, planer, etc Thanks Nathaniel
2) Do y'all ever apply salt to a glue joint? I've known about this trick for a few years but never used it. I've recently used it on a few shop projects and it worked surprisingly well. I was most pleased with the efficiency of the glue up because I did not encounter any slipping joints during clamping. Before introducing this into my standard glue up process, I want to know if the salt negatively effects the integrity of the glue and/or joint.
Thanks for the great podcast! I've been a listener since episode 1 and I've enjoyed them all (even the ones that Guy is drinking heavily and cursing Laguna bandsaws.)
Thursday Dec 03, 2020
Thursday Dec 03, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) My question is: I am making a bed and I am contemplating the best way to attach the bed rails. I like the bed rail hangers/brackets because mortising and screwing them in should be simple. However, I want the bed to be tight and not squeak when the Mrs and I get busy. My other thought is to use bed bolts because I am thinking the bed will be much tighter, but lining up the bed bolt into the rail seems difficult because my bed rails will be 5/4 thick. Do any of you have experience making beds and what method of attaching the rails did you use. Mike
2) My 2nd ( serious) question relates to resawing, I can't resaw very straight even using a fence, I have watched plenty of YT videos and have seen different jigs from different manufacturers including the Magswitch fence that lets you pivot the workpiece. So...... to resaw should you be able to set up a fence and run the piece through getting a straight cut (as we would do with a TS) ? or is constant adjustment required ? Geoff Richards
Sean
1) Hey guys love the podcast,this is exactly what everyday woodworkers wanna listen to in a podcast. Question is I just started woodworking 6 months ago I turned my 2 car garage into a full fledge wood shop. Acquired all the big milling machines and just about everything you can think of. As of now I only follow detailed plans from others designs. I can follow plans to a T but actually making my own designs/plans seems somewhat daunting. I have sketchup and have been trying to learn. For whatever reason it’s not coming easy. Do you think because I can’t design my own pieces I should find another hobby. Or do these things take time to eventually learn. I’ve only been woodworking for 6 months I’ve mainly done case work a few cabinets and a built in for my wife’s closet. - Nathan
2) Hey guys!!! Listening to episode 58 right now and had a question: for a small shop, what finishes would you keep on hand, ready to go? Stain? Shellac? Poly? Also, what other finish supplies do you keep on hand as well?? Thanks! -Justin
Huy
1) Hey Guys, it’s Justin, with Liberty Craftsman. I really appreciate y’all answering my previous questions and now I’ve got some more for you. 1) when doing commission work, I tend to struggle with accurately picking a finish date, as the project inevitably gets delayed (generally on my end due to my full time job), so I have to talk with the customer and let them know what’s going on. I recently had a client ask for a refund, due to me delaying delivery by about 3 weeks. We had some personal family stuff happen that caused a significant delay in the project. So, long story short, do you think I should not give a date, but a range 8-10 weeks and wait until a certain point in the project to communicate a more accurate completion date?
2) Do y'all have any experience or thoughts on replacing a machine's V-belt with an adjustable link drive belt? I've recently purchased a used 17" drill press that has more vibration than I'd prefer. The pulleys appear to be aligned, so the next thing I would try is replacing the V-belts. Are link belts worth it, or are they just a gimmick?
Thursday Nov 19, 2020
Thursday Nov 19, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) Hello, got a question for the show! Will wiping mineral spirits on wood before finishing, to get the dust completely off, mess with the finish being applied correctly? I have read some places that mineral spirits will not change anything, but on Rubio‘s website for example, they say mineral spirits can mess with the finish. Just not sure if they’re saying this so that you buy their wood cleaner instead. Thanks! Buffalo Custom Woodworking
2) So I'm interested in getting a drum sander. Most of its use will be for panel doors etc. One of the things that I really like is a quality piece of equipment that I'm really not going to have too many problems with. I've looked at the Laguna supermax, the jet, and the powermatic. What can you tell me as far as quality in these different models and what should I be considering or looking for? Is there another company I should consider? Thanks again for a great podcast. Marlan
Sean
1) Hey guys, thanks for answering my last question about the MFT. I was wondering if you all could talk about the cordless tools you use in your shops. I wouldn't say I'm in the market for new stuff (been using Ridgid 18v for close to a decade), but I'm always curious to hear what other people prefer/use and why. Thanks for the great show! Cardinal Custom Woodworking
2) Do you think machine cutting joinery instead of doing it by hand (dovetails for example) makes the finished product less desirable to a client or the general public? I've been practicing my hand cutting of joinery for about a month now and I think I would enjoy other aspects of building much more but I don't want to lose potential customers by not having that aspect in my builds. I look forward to your feedback and keep up the great work. Thanks. Miller
Huy
1) I just recently started listening to your podcast and I've already learned a lot. I've followed you on Instagram and have been really inspired by your work. I started a woodworking business this year and I'm constantly trying to set up my shop to be the most beneficial for my daily tasks. One of the things I'm trying to improve right now is my dust collection. I currently have the harbor freight dust collector that I have run to my larger tools like my table saw, bandsaw, jointer, and planer. I'm trying to cut down on the amount of dust that is in the air in my shop as much as I can. My question for you is this: Is there anything wrong with setting the dust collector completely outside of the shop in order to take one more step to keep dust out of the shop? And part of the reason I ask that question is because I actually live in the middle of woods with no neighbors around me to have dust blown into their yards or complain about the sound of the dust collector. I also wonder if this would eliminate the need for a filter. And I would also obviously cover the dust collector in some way to keep it from the elements. Thanks for all the help you guys provide on the podcast and keep up that good work!
Heath
2) I recently got a spray system and am beginning to incorporate spray finishing to as many projects as possible. I am starting a new build of walnut record cabinet, and I am contemplating pre finishing. The finished piece will be about 60"x30", so it will be much easier to pre finish the panels before assembled. I am thinking of using conversion varnish for durability.
My question is, should I prefinish the inside and outside of all of the panels? Or just the inside, and finish the outside once the whole cabinet is assembled? If I only finish one side, do I have to worry about warping within the few days until I glue it up and finish the other side? On the contrary, it seems it would take quite a bit longer to prefinish both sides at once, having to wait for a side to dry before you can flip it over for a coat on the other side? Id love to hear how you guys have tackled prefinishing a cabinet in the past! - Sean Moore
Thursday Nov 05, 2020
Thursday Nov 05, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) Hey guys! I know you all have CNC's in your shop. I am about to buy one and I have about $2500 to purchase one. I have thought about the shapeoko XXL or the shaper origin. I know you have experience with gantry style CNC machines, but what do you think of the shaper origin? Would any of you trade your gantry style CNC machines in for the shaper origin if you had the chance? Isaac
2)Hi fellas -- I'm a novice woodworker with a question about the use of dowel versus domino joinery:
I'm trying to understand all the hate and derision that is thrown towards dowel joinery versus all the love and infatuation with domino joinery. It seems to me they are both loose tenon joinery and the only real difference is the shape of the loose tenon. So what makes the dowel such a "poor man's" joint and the domino an heirloom quality joint? If I use dowels with the same approximate surface area as a domino, won't I get the same strength and holding power? Is there something special about the rectangular shape of the domino versus the round shape of the dowel?
Thank you! I love the podcast!
David
PS: my daughter wants to be a rocket propulsion engineer, so Huy, you rock! (Guy and Sean are pretty good, too)
Sean
1) Hello Master Woodworkers, I appreciate all you do on the podcast and can't wait to listen to the next episode. I am getting ready make a bunch of small to medium size boxes as gifts for family out of walnut and maple. I don't have a spray setup and don't really have time to learn it this year. I am looking for a fast and reliable finish for the boxes, in a matte to semi-gloss. These will be 3x5 on the small side and 8 x 10 on the large. Thanks for all you do, and keep the podcast coming! - John
2) How to understand the grain and what to look for would be a great topic of conversation for the podcast for beginners like myself. Geoff
Huy
1) Outside of my shop I would like to build a small shed for storing sheet goods. I live in northern Iowa where it can get pretty cold in the winter. is there any potential problems with storing sheet goods outside covered, dry and then bringing them in prior to using them letting the temperature come up to my shop temperature. Would the low humidity cause any harm to structure of the sheets. Marlan Mincks
2) Great podcast, guys! I appreciate all the advice you give. I am a fairly new woodworker and I’ve been building some furniture to start to sell. Nothing massive, trying to stick to smaller pieces because of experience and size of shop. I planned to find people in my area around Nashville TN who appreciate local handmade pieces, but my wife brought the question of what I do if a customer wanted me to ship them the finished product. So my question to you guys is how do I go about figuring that process out? And is it even worth it? I assume I would pass that shipping cost on to the customer. Would be getting into the custom crate building business then too? Thanks for your time! Matthew
Thursday Oct 22, 2020
Thursday Oct 22, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) I am looking at getting a Festool domino machine. I was wondering which one you all use the most? They are a lot of money and I want to get both, but only one is in the budget currently. I am currently building a big green egg cart similar to Mark Spagnolo and he used both in his build. I mostly will be building small tables and small cabinets and am thinking of getting the 500 but was wondering what you all think. Thank you. David
2) Hey, Fellas! I wanted to get your advice on something. I inherited a Delta DC380 15" planer that has a newer brushless motor on it and straight knives for a cutter head. It's a beast, but it's a big piece of equipment for my shop which is just the size of a one-car-garage. I'm thinking about selling it and "downgrading" to a DeWalt DW735 with a helical head. Am I crazy? What might I end up sacrificing if I go with the DeWalt after working with the Delta for a few years now? My biggest concerns with keeping the Delta is potential upcoming maintenance (it's an older machine), overall size, and lack of storage in the industrial rolling base. -Joel
Sean
1) Hi fellas. You answered my question a while back on dining chair design re: lower stretchers. That was very helpful. Thanks.
I've prototyped a chair (I can email through a picture if that would help), and am now on to batching out the set in white oak. While I was doing the prototype, I pattern routed the back legs and found that I was getting a fair amount of tear out due to grain direction. So, I invested in a compression flush trim bit thinking that this would solve my problems. I'm finding that it isn't the magic solution that I thought it'd be. I'm still facing issues with the bit chewing into grain that would ordinarily be in the wrong direction.
A little background information: I don't have a router table. I'm doing this handheld, taking light passes, and I've got the speed slowed way down on the router. I'm using a 2.25 hp router, which should be able to handle this kind of thing.
Am I missing something? Do I need a router table for this to work? Should I reject technology altogether and live in the forest?
2) I listen to 2 podcasts. Yours is by far the better. Professional and informative while being personable.
I inherited a 12/4 100” x 18” Norwegian pine slab from my 93 year old mentor Bert. Having been stored under his saw these past 30 years he wanted to see it used. Grow locally here in SE Minnesota, I estimated it was a sapling in about 1870 making it 2nd growth.
It quickly became apparent neither 40 grit on a 4” hand drum sander nor No. 5 jack plane would work well, so I built an 8 foot x 2-1/2 foot router sled. Using my Bosch 1617 and a Whiteside 6220 planing bit I eliminated the twist and the bandsaw marks then ROS to 80/150/220, amber shellac and wiping varnish made using Minwax. Final thickness was 3”. You can find pics at @wilsoncellulosics.
While acceptable for a fireplace lintel the resulting quality was good but not furniture grade. Have either you all or your colleagues done slab planing? I am open to tackling another slab sometime when the opportunity arises. Are third party slab planers worth the considerable cost (meaning furniture-grade results)? If so recommendations to consider? Bob Peterson
Huy
1) Hello gentlemen. This question is for all three of you. I have a 2hp Shop Fox table saw and wanted to add on to it by upgrading the fence and possibly building things into the wings. Have some trouble deciding on what fence when I realized this is a trend for me making these types of improvements everywhere. So.....What are the best third party upgrades you’ve made to tools in your shop (excluding the obvious things like the Super Incra Miter Sled 9000). Maybe a two answer format - best made shop improvement vs. best purchased improvement. What the thing you added that made life so much better. Thank you boys, keep up the great work. Joey - Winter Wolf Woodworking
2) Hi guys, love the podcast! I’ve got a question about a ceiling mounted air filters. I have a small (200ish sqft) shop in the basement. I was looking at something like the RIKON 62-400 since it’s a small area. However if I step up to the 62-100, which is 2.5x the price, I can get carbon filters for it, it’s not an option on the smaller unit. My question is: With my shop being in the house is it worth being able to get carbon filters to help get rid of some of the fumes from finishes, or is the bigger unit just overkill in such a small shop? Im not spraying conversion varnish or anything like that, usually it’s wipe on finish on small boxes and things, if that makes a difference. Also the HVAC is in the corner of the shop, and the basement outside my shop door is a finished living area, which is why I want to put in air filtration. Thanks! Matt
WoodWhisperer flattening workbench: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0
Thursday Oct 08, 2020
Thursday Oct 08, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) I've been woodworking nearly 4 years and do it as a part time business. This year, business has really taken off and I'm getting several large commissions. Because of this, I finally pulled the trigger on a Fuji Q5 Platinum HVLP. I figured if I was gonna spray... go all the way. My question for you gentlemen: I am convinced that Conversion Varnish is a very high quality finish I would like to use; do you all have any that you have used any loved? Any that you hate? Since many are water-based, should I spray shellac first to pop the grain? Thank you! Nathan
2) Hey Guys. Table saw technique question for you: when ripping narrow stock from a wider board do you prefer the narrow rip against the fence (let’s say it’s a 2” rip for discussion purposes) when ripping down a wide board or do you prefer to keep the wide board between the fence and the blade and use a stop block or a thin rip block and constantly move the fence? Assuming the thin rip against the fence is more accurate but are either techniques safer? Ben
Sean
1) Hey I love your guys show. You guys are lucky to have Guy on your staff. Every act needs a straight man. He's a good one. LOL so my question is this. In making tabletops is there a standard width of board you prefer. That is, if you have to cut down something wider you typically go for a 8in wide board, 6 in, 12 in. board? - Marlan
2) I’m probably going to get one of the Rigid oscillating belt and spindle sanders that everyone seems to like a lot. But I’ve also had my eye on a 12 inch disc sander. Mainly now I will be using them to sand to lines on curves cut with a bandsaw. Wondering what I would be able to to do in addition to that if I had the disc sander, or whether it’s overkill to have both. Thanks, and don’t let Guy answer my question first :) Just kidding — you’re great, Guy! - Adam
Huy
1) Can you share any info or help for vacuum hoses? How many sizes are there? I have 7 different types of shop vacs ( some for the shop, some for job sites and one for water) and it seems like every one has a different size hose. I have reducers and tons of other fittings, but it seems like half the time I am taping them to the tool I am using. Is this a common problem? I also have 2 portable dust Collectors. I thought about painting each size a different color and then just match them up - Tomakazi
2) I picked up a Festool TS55 last fall, and have been slowly getting more familiar with it. I'm working towards getting an MFT style top for an outfeed table, and came across an older (2013?) video on Guy's YT channel showing a setup using an Incra fence with stops on an MFT outfeed table. I'm curious if you still use that sort of setup, and if you'd go with the same method for attaching the fence today vs. something like the FenceDogs from BenchDogs.uk or PrecisionDogs.us (not released yet). Any discussion on using a track saw on an MFT type table for cross cuts, with stops, etc. would be welcome. -Monte
Thursday Sep 24, 2020
Thursday Sep 24, 2020
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) I've been building small furniture projects (Shaker tables, end tables, walnut table, lounge chairs) in my hobby shop using a skill saw or a hand saw when a bandsaw has been called for. My furniture projects are getting more complicated (a dresser, more lounge chairs) and I'm thinking it is time to get a bandsaw. But which one? I don't see me doing much resawing, although I don't want to completely foreclose that possibility. I've thought about the following options: Jet 14 inch deluxe pro (1.25 hp, $1000), Grizzly GO555LX 14 inch (1 hp, $750), and Rikon table top deluxe 10 inch (0.5 hp, $440). I note that Lowe's also has a Porter Cable 13 inch and a Delta 13 inch, but at their price point I think I'd be better off with the Grizzly. What are your thoughts? Many thanks. ...Tom
2) Hey fellas, big fan of the show. Really enjoy the “specificity” you bring to the craft. Question: you guys talk about not trusting your mitre saws for accurate cross cuts (kapex excluded). So I assume your trusted method is with a table saw. How do you manage getting accurate cuts on large pieces. I know trying to shave a 1/8” off of the end of a 8ft x 6 x 4/4 piece of lumber is not easily done with a mitre jig or a sled on a table saw. How do you get that perfect 90 on something other than a mitre saw on large and long stock? P.S. I don’t trust my mitre saw either. -Zach
Sean
1) I really enjoy the podcast and I always learn a lot listening to your show. My question is about finishing. I have been noticing that several woodworkers that I follow apply a glossy clear coat for the first few layers and then they will finish with a semi-gloss clear coat. What is the purpose of starting with a "shinier" coat and then finish with a "less" shiny coat? Thanks in advance...Josh
2) Love the show, I have heard throughout several episodes of each of you stocking up on hundreds of board feet of lumber for potential future projects. Is there a specific dimension, specifically thickness and length that you typically look for? I’m assuming that in order to achieve a specific width, you can always glue boards together, but for posts or say table legs, is this what you do as well? Or for those specific projects do you just custom order a thicker stock in order to get the desired thickness. Hope my question makes any sense, apologize if it is basic. Keep the episodes coming!! Christopher
Huy
1) I am a retired rocket scientist who now obsesses over furniture rather than missiles which means I take precision to meaningless extremes. I am replacing my 1977 Craftsman with a Powermatic 64B bought sight unseen. I have a Vega 50” fence which I like quite a bit. The Craftsman will be donated to Habitat. Which of the two fences should I send along to Habitat or are they just a horse apiece?
My skill level is intermediate. If at all helpful the items I make are cabinets and tables used either at home or donated for charity auctions. The blade is a WW2, Bench Dog router table for the left wing.
bob
2) if I got one of those EXPENSIVE Forest Woodworker II combination blades (the modified one with a flat bottom cut), would I fall out of love with blade changes? Are they really that much better that I wouldn't feel the need to change that I do now? I much prefer the cuts I'm getting now with the specific grinds compared to combination blades I've used in the past (the better quality "home center" brands).
Is there a time, even with those expensive combination blades, that you all go back to a specifically rip or crosscut blade?
Thanks for any input!
Peter