Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking
Episodes
Thursday Apr 21, 2022
Thursday Apr 21, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1)First off I want say how much I’ve enjoyed listening to your podcast over the past year or more. With the right balance of instruction and interaction between the hosts, it’s both informative and entertaining.
I’ve been woodworking for quite some time and I ran across something I never experienced before and was hoping you might have some insight. I’m building a floor lamp with three curved legs as a base. I made a template for the leg profile out of ¼ inch hardboard. Using a straight pattern bit on my router table, I was able to easily create three legs out of ¾ plywood for my prototype. Happy with the design I used the template to trace out the legs on some ¾ walnut. I then rough cut out the legs on the band saw, leaving a 1/16inch of material outside of the line. From there it was back to the router table where I attempted to flush cut the legs using the template and straight pattern bit. This gave me no trouble at all when routing the plywood prototype legs, but as soon as I carefully eased the walnut into the bit, it would immediately catch and tear out. I purchased a ¼ inch spiral flush trim bit and also used a starting pin but the results where the same. I continued to get bad catches and tear out no matter how carefully or slowly I went. In all my years of woodworking, I’ve never run across anything like this. Any ideas on what I could do different? Terry
2) Hi guys and thanks again for making the ULTIMATE (remember that episode?) woodworking podcast,
And by the way, thanks for answering my last question. I live in Bergen, Norway and a small local timber merchant is selling Beech (I guess it is European beech) and Alder (again European alder I believe) at quite a reasonable price. Here in Norway poplar is not readily available.
Given a choice between the two, which would you choose as a secondary wood (for drawers and parts that won't be seen)? And if you were to make furniture project wholly out of one of them, which would you choose? And of course, why?
Both are rated as perishable. The beech is quite a lot harder according to the janka scale. 6460N vs. 2890N. The beech is supposedly superb for steam bending, but I have yet to get there in my skill set. And both seem to have quite good workability.
I am not sure I appreciate the ray fleck look or the slightly yellow look on the beech that I have seen, but that may be fixed during finishing if the other attributes make it worth while. I have however, little experience with alder. Looking forward to your discussion on this. Sincerely, Gøran Eliassen Nomad Makes
Guy
1) Hey guys. My question is about pricing your woodworking and getting past imposter syndrome. I have recently started making some items for a group of dog breed enthusiasts and I have experienced a substantial growth in demand for items that fall much more into the "art" category than the "furniture" category. As a hobbyist woodworker, I do not have a huge portfolio of work that I've sold, only a few items here and there. Moving forward, I plan on building into a more substantial business. I obviously want to price my work at what it's worth, but I can be very self conscious about my skills and tend to undervalue what I'm worth. I obviously want to sell as much as I can, but how do I sell my work at a value that gets its out into the world without setting a low bar price-wise for the future? I am my harshest critic. Joshua
2) Hey Guy(s)! Thankfully this question is not very time sensitive, so hopefully you can get to it before I need to take your answer(s) into consideration.
My wife and I are in the process of redesigning our kitchen that is in need of a serious facelift. We plan on contracting out the plumbing and electrical and fortunately aren’t doing any structural modifications to the house itself.
Our current debate involves the cabinetry. I’m a fairly competent woodworker and love a good challenge. Personally, I’d rather take the money we would pay a cabinet shop to build and install new cabinets and make some needed upgrades and additions to my own workshop to do them myself. I’m not a fan of raised panel designs so I’ll probably do more shaker style cabinets.
I have a Sawstop contractor saw, 14” bandsaw, 13” planer, basic router table, bench top drill press, and an older model Festool track saw, plus various other hand tools
Considering I expect to save somewhere in the range of $5-10K by doing it myself, what additional tools would you recommend? As specific as you’d like to be would be great if you have machines you’ve been very happy with.
Side note: we had to take down a large white oak in our back yard and I plan to have it milled up and kiln dried to continue its life on our property.
Thanks for your time and your continued insight to help us all become better woodworkers!
Shawn @terpax
Huy
1) Aloha Boys!
I have a question about managing humidity and rust in the workshop. I live in Hawaii and have my workshop in a detached garage. Most buildings here including my workshop have jaulosie style windows and I can't completely seal and temperature control my shop.
I am spraying or wiping down my larger tools with T-9 and other rust inhibitors, but many of my other various tools and equipment are quickly rusting.
Outside of temperature controlling a shop, any other tips tricks or ideas? Are silicone gel packs a waste of money? Would it be crazy to put rubber weather sealing on cabinet doors? Mahalo boys, you are the best! Matt
2)Hey again, love the podcast and the advice you give. Recently you answered why I suck at hinges, and one reason mentioned was the cheap hardware I often use. This lead me to another thought. When do you buy the hardware for a project? Before you begin, or once it's all made?
I tend to wait until after the project is made, and unfortunately that also means I sometimes struggle to find hardware that will work. I've been known to buy many different sets of hinges to take home and see how they look on a box, or even carried boxes into Rockler to try there.
I've also ran into the issue of fit. I recently made a shoe-shine box, and when I planed the lumber, i just ran it through until I thought it looked good. I didn't measure at all. But when I went to buy hinges, the odd sizing left me with hinges that were either too big and stuck out, or not strong enough for the weight of the lid/shoe support. I ended up with external hinges that I didn't like, and 3 of them for strength, all because I didn't plan ahead. My wife likes it, but what does she know about design? Peter
Thursday Apr 07, 2022
Thursday Apr 07, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) Jolly good day Guy, Huy, and Sean. I've always found the imperfections in wood like knots, funky grain, and discoloration to be interesting. I have decided to try and start using them more as design aspects in my projects. I am tackling using a knot for the first time and other than "use epoxy" I am at a loss as to what brand, type and tints. There is a myriad of options. Any recommendations on products, methods and tints for an end table top knot in mixed clear/brown yellow birch? As always, thank you for sharing the knowledge! -
I want to Stabilize mostly, but I have heard that clear epoxy yellows. Should I tint darken to handle that? Daniel Stickman Woodworking
2) Thank you guys for everything you do with the podcast. My question for you is about table top flattening. My current situation is with a 42”x90” dining room table that went a little wonky during the glue up. A couple of the boards came out of alignment with the rest and so now the top is not flat. I know where I messed up and how to prevent this in the future, but I’m wondering what your suggestions would be to flatten a top of this size back to everything being even. I am currently using my router sled to do this and it is very time consuming. Thank you in advance for you answers. Sincerely, David Glowacki
3)Hey guys. I love the podcast. I learn something new from each episode. Thank you for answering my question and all the hard work you put into your tube and podcast.
I'm currently working very hard to increase my brand recognition to try and make wood working a full time thing. I know none of you have your own "Full time woodworking gig". and I feel that is a choice. It seems like you guys could break out full time. Any advice on how to increase my reach to people to start bringing in more business would be super appreciated.
Scott Bonin @tomrarwoodworks
Huy
1) Thank you for the great podcast! I listen to it all the time and get so much out of it!
I just recieved a free delta unisaw with sliding table. Two question on this table saw:
1: This saw does not have a riving/splitter. Thoughts on adding one??
2: I want to rebuild my shop around this saw. Right now my table simply butts to my work bench which is also my out feed table. I would like to attach the bench/outfeed table to the saw but the floor is not level. (garages shop). Would you build to level? ie, level the saw and build everything to that plane or build to square with the floor.
Great pod cast! Great people! GREATEST INFO! Scott
2) Hi folks - I am moving in the next year, and am hopeful that I can sell many of my current stationary tools and move up to some used industrial-scale equipment. However, I have never purchased equipment that I couldn’t transport myself or simply have dropped off with lift gate service. I am interested to hear any advice regarding the transportation of large tools back to the shop after winning them at auction far from home (for example). I love my Toyota Tacoma but I’d be limited to picking up one tool at a time, which would be a real scheduling nightmare. Does one hire riggers to load a truck, have the truck driven to one’s own place, and hire riggers to get the stuff off the truck? I don’t have a forklift or anything like that (yet), and as much as I would love to I would rather direct my funds at tools vs material handling equipment. I am simply an enthusiastic amateur looking to get into large equipment for both the fun and the machines’ capacity. Andrew
3) The amount of information you all have given to the community has helped out so many folks and I’d like to say thank you for your knowledge and dedication.
My question is in the concerns of a L fence. I have been hearing about them lately and would like to know if any of you have used one. From what I have seen and understand is it increases the safety of making certain cuts. Could you help us understand what an L fence is and if it’s worth making.
Again, thank you all for the information you have given to us all.
Brent Jarvis Clean Cut Woodworking
Thursday Mar 24, 2022
Thursday Mar 24, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) Hey Guy,Huy,& Sean. I just picked up a pair of Mitutoyo calipers. I use a straight edge and feeler gauges to set up machines like my jointer. Do you guys use precise tools like calipers,feeler gauges, and straight edges. when your building furniture, it seems like they could be really useful. All 3 of you have that engineering type of brain. (Huy being an actual engineer). If you do use them in your furniture. What do you use them for? Or are tools like calipers overkill for woodworking. Cheers, Nate
2) When you bring a new tool into the shop do you find yourself using that tool as an excuse to rearrange your shop, even if it’s an upgrade from a tool you already have?
I’ve found myself rearranging my entire workflow every time I introduce a new tool even if the one I’m upgrading one that’s been in a certain spot for years.
I hope all has been well with you and your families. Please continue with the fantastic content! Thank you for your time. Brent Jarvis Clean Cut Woodworking
Huy
1) Hey my name is Mike from odd materials woodworks I have been really enjoying your podcast.
I have been following all three of you for a while.
Anyways in listening to some of your past podcasts you have discussed the mft with the flip up arm and how you don’t use it anymore.You just use a set of dog with the rail clip which I have been thinking of switching to. My question is how would you approach making repeatable cuts on an MFT style table? Thanks again Mike
2)What is your method for fixing drift when re-sawing with a fence on your bandsaw? Michael
Guy
1)Hi Guys, love the show and the chemistry between you guys, I'm fairly new in the woodworking world with previous experience as a finisher, now I moved to making my own furniture line. I have three questions for you guys:
1- Any tips for crosscutting plywood?
2- How do you guys keep the shop organized with the leftovers of material?
3- If budget weren't an issue what would you buy first a Festool Track Saw or a Sawstop Cabinet Saw?? (I mostly work with sheets of plywood) Thank you and keep up the good work, Karel
2) Hope this is a quick one for ya - I'm stumped on something and it's making me crazy. I'm making cutting boards, I've got about 10 under my belt at this point. Most of my quality priorities are improving nicely with time and experience but I have a problem with finishing; specifically grain that raises on my finished product shortly after the board gets put into use.
For context I'm talking about edge grain boards. I get a great glue-up, scrape them down, finish plane, then onto sanding. I take it to 180 all around, then I raise the grain. I take that down with 220, then I raise it again. I really thought that raising the grain twice, incrementally, would give me an extra level of redundancy against surface issues moving forward. I finish with 320, then go with a generous treatment of mineral oil followed by the 4-1 oil/beeswax routine.
The "fuzziness" isn't across the entire board, but there's enough of it there to both mystify and frustrate me. I really put a lot of work into these and I'm trying to get the highest quality that I can achieve. Everyone expects a board to need care, but my gut says that sandpaper shouldn't be involved.
What am I overlooking here? Any assistance will be greatly appreciated; love the show, keep up the great work. collin
Thursday Mar 10, 2022
Thursday Mar 10, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) I’ll save you the airtime by not mentioning how awesome y’all are and how awesome your podcast is because you already know that. If Huy and Sean didn’t know that already just ask Guy… he will talk for hours! Hahah
Two part question is… when contemplating buying a new tool do you let the space you have for that tool determine if you’ll be getting one over the other? Also, when you bring a new tool into the shop do you find yourself using that tool as an excuse to rearrange your shop, even if it’s an upgrade from a tool you already have?
I’ve found myself rearranging my entire workflow every time I introduce a new tool even if the one I’m upgrading one that’s been in a certain spot for years.
I hope all has been well with you and your families. Please continue with the fantastic content! Thank you for your time.
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking
2) Hey fellas, I'm looking into a new drill press. I'm looking to spend about 500$. I noticed the rikon radial arm drill press is the same price as the standard drill press. why wouldn't I buy the radial arm drill press?
Thanks Scott
Huy
1) Howdy from Madison, AL! I’m pretty new to woodworking although
I have been building (and finally finished) our kitchen cabinets including 43 drawers! Now I’m getting into ‘finer’ woodworking and am building a 2” thick (6’x4’ oval) walnut/maple kitchen table. My question is about building a base for the table - any idea how to prototype the build so that I can see if the base will actually hold all the weight of the table? I can build it in Sketchup but that really won’t tell me how much weight it will support… I also thought about building a ‘tulip’ style base as our home has very contemporary styling…
Adrian Abshire
2) First off, this MAY be a repeat (I’ve sent it to SOME podcast but who can keep them all straight ?). I’m making a high chair for a friend, which I hope to complete before the kid goes off to college, from box store mahogany so I’m thinking it’s sapele. I’d love suggestions on how to finish so it’s both durable and safe for a tiny human to gnaw on
Jason
Guy
1) Hey guys I’ve been listening from the start. Awesome podcast and has been super informational so thank you for all you do. My question to you guys is, is it worth upgrading my dwelt 734 to a helical head or buy a new 735 four post and upgrade the head later on?(money reasons for later on) The 734 has worked great for my for about 3 years. My only complaint is the knives are crap. They don’t last very long. My question is it worth upgrading the old 734 Vs getting a new four post and upgrading later. It’s a better machine so maybe it will last longer in the end. Thank you for your time! Mike
2) Hello. My brother-in-law’s house flooded during a recent hurricane. They have a heavy duty metal circular staircase that had carpet covered plywood stair treads that were trashed. I’ve made new stair treads with red oak and was planning to use Osmo to finish, but now they say they want them “dark”.
What product would you recommend to both darken and seal that would hold up long-term to foot traffic. I’m thinking a stain with Osmo might eventually wear off leaving an uneven color.
Thanks in advance, Mike Sibley Sibley Manor Woodworks
Friday Feb 25, 2022
Friday Feb 11, 2022
Friday Feb 11, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1)Hi all, Love learning from y’all, though your podcast has cost me a bit of money since I hear about some great things that I HAVE to buy!
However, my spouse says that we are running out of room in our tiny 16.5 x 8.75 foot garage and has put their foot down on a thickness planer. They pretty much use a lathe and other machinery to help support their lathe work (benchtop bandsaw, sander, drill press, job site table saw), and have no stated need for a thickness planer. I am interested in moving more into furniture and cutting boards, so I thought a thickness planer, and possibly one day a jointer, would be helpful in my woodworking. I found plans for a jig that I could use my router on but didn’t know if this was a sufficient substitution. Have any of you used such a jig for planing and if so, how did you find it compares to the thickness planer? Also, do you have any suggestions to efficiently plane or joint wood without a planer or jointer? Thanks in advance for your help. Adrien
2) I see and hear people referring to how many hours they have in a particular project - 50 hours for this, 100 for that, etc. and so on. More so for people doing commission work than just personal stuff, I guess, but it got me wondering... how do you generally figure the hours for a project? Do you keep track of your shop time, or is it more of a 'best guess'? Do you count stock prep? Tool sharpening during the course of a project? Building jigs necessary for the project? Time spent waiting between coats of finish? How deep in the weeds do you go on this, and how does it differ between 'individual' projects that you do at home, vs. say projects done at work (in Guy's case)? Thanks! Monte
3) Two things.
#1 – for the listeners… there seems to be only 58 Patreon members. This is a great resource and I hope more of them contribute, as $5/month is a bargain.
#2 – for the gentlemen, can you please talk about when you do your edge details in relation to sanding. For example, if you’re doing a small chamfer with a block plane, I would think this happens after all sanding is complete. But if you’re looking to blend in a top and bottom roundover, I assume you do this before any sanding, but at the risk of losing some symmetry. Look forward to your thoughts on this topic. Thanks, Glen
Guy
1) Hey guys, recently found love the show. I started at the beginning and am nearly caught up, but forgive me if this has been discussed already. I'm planning to build my wife a very large craft desk/work area. She wants it to be 'U' shaped so she can rotate in place and complete each operation of her projects. Due to the shape and size, I naturally want to assemble this in a manner that it is easy to disassemble to allow for future relocation. Aside from basic, but strategically located, screws or bolts for assembling each section to one another, have you guys used any sort of "knockdown" hardware. I have used connector bolts on cheap throw-away furniture pieces before, but not on pieces that I have built. I can foresee some difficulty in accurately locating the various holes to be drilled when using that type of system. Any thoughts on products and/or approach for such an application?
Ps. I have seen a couple of neat options using the Domino and Lamelo biscuit joiner. I have a Dewalt biscuit joiner, but neither of the two other tools are currently at my disposal. Perhaps this is my excuse to invest in the Domino? Thanks and keep up the good work! Jason
2)Hey guys. I really enjoy the podcast. Thanks for sharing your expertise with the woodworking world.
I've decided to upgrade my sharpening media by moving away from Norton water stones and purchasing two of the DMT Duo Sharp diamond plates (220/325 mesh and 600/1200 mesh) and the 6000 grit Shapton Glass Stone for final honing. It's my understanding the ceramic on the glass stone will require flattening but not nearly as often as the Norton stones which I flatten after every use. Can you tell me how to best determine when my 6000 grit glass stone will need flattening especially since it will be used primarily only for final honing? Also, can the DMT diamond plates be used for flattening the glass stone? If so, which grit/mesh do you recommend. Thanks again and keep up the great work. Jack Francis - Geneva IL
3) Question mainly for Guy: ive heard you talk about your love for the Incra 5000 many times. I have one myself for a few years. One part i wanna pick your brain on is how you claim to be able to square it up in seconds. I will preface this by saying that i hope i am missing something in my own experience. But I find i still need to do 5 cut methods for mine every now and then because when the fence gets bumped... you can no longer trust the registration marks until its squared again. Aside from this, theres also so much play in the outer end of the fence before you lock it down so how do you ever truly trust the angle? I find myself only setting it to 90 and still occasionally find its misaligned. I wouldnt dare trust it for angles like 45 etc because of the play of the arm and the other factors. What am i doing wrong? (I have made sure everything is tight) - tree of life woodworking
Thursday Jan 27, 2022
Thursday Jan 27, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) If I use the 1/3 rule for the tenons on the aprons, the tenons would be 1/4" thick if I use 3/4" stock. Do you think this is thick enough for a side/sofa table that won't see much abuse?
2) Hey guys, love the podcast! I have been following Sean's box build and wanted to talk about box hinges. For side mount hinges, what's your preferred installation method that works every time? It's something I struggle with and would like some tips or tricks. Thanks, Deron
Guy
1) Thanks for the great podcast and answering a number of my questions in the past. As with many of us I have a love hate relationship with finishing. I have been using Shellac with a Rubber (I know Huy dislikes that term) using Guy's method of preparing and using. I've recently tried hard wax oil (Odie's) which I like, but want to try spraying. I have a Home Right Super Finish HVLP (ie CHEAP) Sprayer, can I use this for spraying Shellac? I know recently Guy had mentioned that he pretty much just sprays shellac now. If I do this would I prepare the ratio the same as I have been for rubbing? Any tips or tricks you could share would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Doug
2) To my question, how do you guys balance getting stuff done vs quality? Is quality always important? Thanks again Liam
Huy
1) What is your favorite species of wood to work on with hand tools and why? Michael
2) I want to make a bow front bedroom set (night stands, chest of drawers and dresser). I plan to make the draw fronts out of bending ply and 1/16 shop sawn veneer. I was considering sawing them out of 12/4 or 16/4 cherry but some of the drawers will be 10 inches tall and I’m concerned about the stability of the wood over time.
After I bend and glue up the drawer fronts, How should I square up the ends so they are parallel plus have a flat on the back for the draw sides? Also, I usually hand cut dovetails when making drawers, since the fronts will basically be plywood, I am thinking this will be difficult. Is there another technique that you could suggest that would be strong, yet simple to make?
Also, the dresser will be two drawers wide with a single bow (each drawer will have a half bow). Whatever technique I use to make the drawer fronts on the end tables and chest of drawers will need to be different for these drawers, how do you suggest I square up the ends and create a flat on the back for the dresser drawers?
Mike
Thursday Jan 13, 2022
Thursday Jan 13, 2022
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Guy
1) Gentlemen-
Enjoying, as always, the podcast. Especially with the recent addition of my questions, and your informative, insightful, and obviously thoroughly researched and considered thoughts on my quandaries.
Onto my current woodworking-related predicament. I find myself both lacking a proper workbench, and having a surplus of black locust and white oak from my aforementioned shed project. My current workbench is a tall (40") dining room table- when it served as such, it came as set with stools, not chairs. From Bloomingdales. For $2600 f@CKING DOLLARS! IT'S MDF SCREWED TOGETHER! Who gets a tall dining room table as the only horizontal surface in a 400 square foot Manhattan apartment? My ex-wife. Because that makes sense and if it doesn't you are in the bad boy corner. Word of advice to your listeners - if your fiancée insists on haircuts that cost more than a Woodpeckers router lift, don't. Just don't and run and make up an excuse, but don't. Ever. 5 months of hard lessons right there.
But I digress.
I have enough black locust to make a 26" x 78" top at about 3.5" thick. My lumber dimensions range (rough, not nominal) from 4x4s to 2x10's. The only bench top dimension limited by the lumber is the thickness. I feel like I want a "girth-ier" bench. The legs are going to be 4x6 white oak with 2x6 stretchers and in the drawings the top looks out of proportion.
I'm a big feller (6'4") and I generate a lot of force with my hand tool work. I don't want to bring the base dimensions down to suit the current possible top thickness.
So do you think I should suck it up and go grab some more 2x6+ and get me a 6" thick top?
The goal here is to get rid of all of this black locust - it's not good for woodworking, it's the best for outdoor building, but I want to get back to woodworking.
But my parents, who live nearby, need a cathouse. The kind for sheltering an outdoor animal, not housing prostitutes. So I could potentially use the excess to make that impervious to the elements, and make my mom happy. Because apparently Jeff told her his little bitty feet get cold on the stone patio, and my dad built what looks like a homeless encampment out of tarps and pallets as a temporary shelter.
But I digress.
Tell your listeners to look @figurawoodwork on instagram they can see what I am talking about. I'm going to send you a pic direct so you don't have to dig around. Continue the superlative work, may your blades stay sharp, and your fences square. Tom
2)Hey,
Thanks so much for the podcast! I have a delta contractor saw 36-725T2. I'm very happy with the saw and it happens to line up with my work bench well. The one thing I'm struggling with is, I feel the table is a little tall. I need to really stain to look straight down on the blade to line up fine joiner cuts. Such as diver tails and tenons. I thought of lowering the saw but I like my bench height, and don't have room for an outfeed table and a bench. Which height is more important? Scott
Huy
1) Hey fellas! Love the podcast and the wealth of info you share. I’m building a dining room table out of old growth fir. I know it’s a bit silly to use such a soft wood for such a high traffic piece, but the wood came from a 12x12 post that was holding up part of my childhood home.
I’ve inset some brass pins and tubes in a flowing pattern on the table top and plan to finish it with Osmo oil ebony stain for colour to contrast the brass, but I’m stuck on what to do for an impact resistant top coat. Have any of you used a foam roller to roll on epoxy and build a couple of coats up? Would an epoxy with high solids be more durable than other more ‘tried and true’ finishes? The table is being gifted to my brother in law and they have a veeeery active toddler, so dents are inevitable but I’d like to protect it as best I can without doing an epoxy pour-over. Apologies if this question has been asked as I’m only on Ep 22! Thank you from Vancouver, BC - Bruce
2) Great podcast fellas, such a wealth of knowledge. My question is about Sherwin Williams Hi-Build Precat Lacquer (low gloss white). I’ve been spraying it thru my Fuji for a few years. I know SW can tint it but I have a big assortment of trans tint dye. Wondering if it works as well as SW tints. Thanks David Morton ,Central Kentucky
Sean
1) As I sit here coughing and assuring everyone it isn't covid I just have lungs full of Sapele, I thought to myself... The woodshop life guys can maybe help me. I try my best to wear all my PPE but I often find myself choosing between lung protection and eye (and ultimately hand) protection. I have tried many different masks and
Eye protection but every time if I am wearing both the glasses fog up and I can't see so I take off the mask. What do you all wear or have you used to overcome this. I have seen the full face mask with Ac blowers but I can't spend 500 and need something economical
Will
Thursday Dec 30, 2021
Thursday Dec 30, 2021
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Sean
1) My question for you is regarding finishing. I have used an alcohol based dye and sealed it with shellac as ‘it sticks to everything and everything sticks to it’. I’m also using a water based poly over that. Specifically regarding the legs, they are an upside down ‘U’ shape or ‘A’ shape and I have them set up to brush on the poly. Would you finish the outward face and edges first, let dry and then flip to do the inner face (legs are laying flat on painters pyramids that are set up on top of the table saw). Or would you poly all sides at once and try to touch up finger marks as you go?
If I were to spray the poly, what would be my order of operations (spray one side and all edges first or all sides at once). What about orientation of the table legs (lay flat/ stand them up/hang from a wire?)
The poly I’m using is Zar Premium Finishes fast drying semi gloss. It says on the container ‘do not thin’ if spraying can I disregard this and add up to 10% water to lower the viscosity as I might with other finishes?
Thank you so very much for such an in depth dive into this glorious craft. Bruce
2) Thanks for answering my last question on stickering new cherry boards in a horizontal rack. I did sticker them and they stayed stable but in the future I will probably not if they are kiln dried as I have limited space and need to maximize.
I just completed a shaker end table with the cherry I had bought and realized when putting the top on that the painter's pyramids that I used to hold the top while I was applying the finish left dents in the top. I finished the top with a coat of BLO and then five coats of shellac. The finish looks great but the dents are ruining the look of the smooth top. I know you can steam the dents out but I am afraid to try this as I do not want to damage the finish. What are your thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks again,
Jim
Guy
1) Hi guys… I’m a truck driver and listen to your podcast allot.
Guy,, do you still use your Incra TSLS fence? Why don’t we see more woodworkers using them? Even on YouTube the videos are years old. Your thoughts please. Brent
2) Name a tool that you have that you're not particularly happy with, but for some reason have not upgraded, and give your reasons why you haven't bit the bullet and bought a better version of that tool?
Huy
1) Gentlemen- I [insert enthusiastic verb] your podcast, and think you all are etc..I have a...different...finishing question. I am about to complete a small timber framed shed. No fasteners used except 4 hurricane straps and nails for the roof deck. Guy you would hate your life here all the mortise and tenon joinery was cut by hand. The frame base, flooring, and siding are black locust, the rest of the beams are SPF. All locally sawn, and then transported on the roof of my Subaru. The roof is going to be a living moss roof (i have no lawn only moss on 4 acres). I went through the trouble of bookmatching the siding when I made it, and even though black locust will last 100 years outdoors, I would like to, as the kids say, "pop" the grain. Would you recommend any sort of oil-based finish? I know i would have to reapply periodically which isn't a problem, however sanding would be. I live about an hour outside of NYC, we have seasons. Any other info you need feel free to ask. Thanks. Tom
2) I recently bought a combination machine (itech c300). It's a HUGE step up for me, and I'm worried about neglecting something because of my own ignorance. What would you say are requirements for servicing induction motors? Any other tips or tricks for someone who has just upgraded to a serious piece of kit for the first time?
Thursday Dec 16, 2021
Thursday Dec 16, 2021
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Sean
1) Recall an instance when you messed up at a critical step in a build. Then describe what you did to shake off the setback, and what if anything, you did to save the project? Michael
2) Hey guys, I have a question about “chasing the burr” when sharpening plane irons.
I use a veritas mark II guide and get a great polish on my PM-V11 plane irons with a 12,000 grit Shapton stone. After the microbevel has a consistent sheen all the way across, I take the iron out of the guide and use the ruler trick to remove the burr. I’ve tried swiping back and forth just once all the way up to 7 or 8 times.
Sometimes I can shave my forearm hairs at that point, but often have to go to a strop for a few passes before doing the ruler trick again on the 12,000 grit stone.
Since I primarily use bevel up planes with differing blade angles, I’d really prefer not to have to use the strop because it’s hard for me to tell what angle I’m at when stropping freehand.
Do you guys have any advice that can help me remove the burr without having to chase it? Damon
Huy
1) I’m moving to a new basement shop with no windows. My concern is about overhead lighting.
Did you use program to help layout of design? I’m working on tool and dust collector now.
Also I’m leaning to 4’ LED at 5k color. Suggestions? Thanks, Chris Hough
2) My current project required extensive use of a tongue and groove bit set (specifically the Freud adjustable kit) to make siding and flooring. My next project is a set of cabinets for my laundry room (lowers, uppers, and a full-height pantry). Shaker-style, no profiles on the cope-and-stick frames. Is there any reason I shouldn't / can't use the T&G set to route the rails and stiles for the cabinet doors and frames, and should purchase a set with a more "refined" profile? I like the Freud kit, you can really dial in the fit, especially for veneered center panels, but all the cool kids on the interwebs seem to use specific, profiled bits. I should mention I saw Guy did a video with an adjustable set, but you know what they say - don't trust anyone over 40 (I'm 44). Regardless there are 3 of you, so death match over it or something.
The cabinets will be made of hard maple which I know is a P.I.T.A. to work with and route cleanly, but I got a tree in the kiln and the T&G I just finished was over 1000 linear feet of Black Locust, so whatever I do will be relatively easy. Frame of reference - Huy, the Honey Locust you had a hard time on your daughter's...bassinet(?) with is 1580lbf Janka. Black Locust is 1700. Hard Maple - pffft only 1450. Cherry/Walnut right around 1000.
Thanks for the advice. I'm starting on these in early December, so I'll probably use whatever answer you provide in early January (in case your recent requests for questions have resulted in a backlog). Thanks for keeping it real. Tom
Guy
1) I have a question about cleaning my 3 HP dust collector with dual canisters. I have the Grizz G0562 but I assume that the Jet, Powermatic and other brands similar models are maintained the same. How often, if ever, should I clean the canisters and how best to do that? I recently gave my shop the semiannual leaf blower clean and when I passed the blower in front of the canisters I saw a huge amount of fine dust drop down into the bag. I somewhat often spin the handle on top of the canister but that doesn't seem to release anything noticable. Thanks fellas, keep up the great work! Jeremy
2) Enjoy the podcast and this is the second time I’ve submitted a question. You addressed my first question very well so let’s see if we can go 2 for 2.
I hear you guys, especially Guy, touting the benefits of shellac. I’m not feeling the love personally. Now I don’t use flakes and mix my own which may be the problem. I use the Zinzer product and brush it on. I have trouble with uneven coats, some areas drying too fast keeping me from working with a wet edge. Lots of runs and just generally uneven and ugly. I hear you talking about spraying which I can do but haven’t tried that yet. When spraying what do you use to clean the sprayer? I’m using ammonia per instructions to clean my brushes but not thrilled with using it on the sprayer.
Do I just need to start mixing my own to get a decent finish? Also the Zinzer leaves too much of a glossy finish, how do I get more satin? Tom