Woodshop Life Podcast

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November 19, 2020  

Episode 59 - Which Cordless Tools?, Drum Sander Preference, Outdoor Dust Collection, & MUCH More!

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Guy

1) Hello, got a question for the show! Will wiping mineral spirits on wood before finishing, to get the dust completely off, mess with the finish being applied correctly? I have read some places that mineral spirits will not change anything, but on Rubio‘s website for example, they say mineral spirits can mess with the finish. Just not sure if they’re saying this so that you buy their wood cleaner instead. Thanks! Buffalo Custom Woodworking

2) So I'm interested in getting a drum sander. Most of its use will be for panel doors etc. One of the things that I really like is a quality piece of equipment that I'm really not going to have too many problems with. I've looked at the Laguna supermax, the jet, and the powermatic. What can you tell me as far as quality in these different models and what should I be considering or looking for? Is there another company I should consider? Thanks again for a great podcast. Marlan

 

Sean

1) Hey guys, thanks for answering my last question about the MFT. I was wondering if you all could talk about the cordless tools you use in your shops. I wouldn't say I'm in the market for new stuff (been using Ridgid 18v for close to a decade), but I'm always curious to hear what other people prefer/use and why. Thanks for the great show! Cardinal Custom Woodworking

2) Do you think machine cutting joinery instead of doing it by hand (dovetails for example) makes the finished product less desirable to a client or the general public? I've been practicing my hand cutting of joinery for about a month now and I think I would enjoy other aspects of building much more but I don't want to lose potential customers by not having that aspect in my builds. I look forward to your feedback and keep up the great work. Thanks. Miller

 

Huy

1) I just recently started listening to your podcast and I've already learned a lot.  I've followed you on Instagram and have been really inspired by your work. I started a woodworking business this year and I'm constantly trying to set up my shop to be the most beneficial for my daily tasks. One of the things I'm trying to improve right now is my dust collection. I currently have the harbor freight dust collector that I have run to my larger tools like my table saw, bandsaw, jointer, and planer. I'm trying to cut down on the amount of dust that is in the air in my shop as much as I can. My question for you is this: Is there anything wrong with setting the dust collector completely outside of the shop in order to take one more step to keep dust out of the shop? And part of the reason I ask that question is because I actually live in the middle of woods with no neighbors around me to have dust blown into their yards or complain about the sound of the dust collector. I also wonder if this would eliminate the need for a filter. And I would also obviously cover the dust collector in  some way to keep it from the elements. Thanks for all the help you guys provide on the podcast and keep up that good work!

Heath

2) I recently got a spray system and am beginning to incorporate spray finishing to as many projects as possible. I am starting a new build of walnut record cabinet, and I am contemplating pre finishing. The finished piece will be about 60"x30", so it will be much easier to pre finish the panels before assembled. I am thinking of using conversion varnish for durability.

My question is, should I prefinish the inside and outside of all of the panels? Or just the inside, and finish the outside once the whole cabinet is assembled? If I only finish one side, do I have to worry about warping within the few days until I glue it up and finish the other side? On the contrary, it seems it would take quite a bit longer to prefinish both sides at once, having to wait for a side to dry before you can flip it over for a coat on the other side? Id love to hear how you guys have tackled prefinishing a cabinet in the past! - Sean Moore

 

November 5, 2020  

Episode 58 - Choose Your Grain Wisely, Dowels?, Storing Sheet Goods, & MUCH More!

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Guy

1) Hey guys! I know you all have CNC's in your shop. I am about to buy one and I have about $2500 to purchase one. I have thought about the shapeoko XXL or the shaper origin. I know you have experience with gantry style CNC machines, but what do you think of the shaper origin? Would any of you trade your gantry style CNC machines in for the shaper origin if you had the chance? Isaac

2)Hi fellas -- I'm a novice woodworker with a question about the use of dowel versus domino joinery:

I'm trying to understand all the hate and derision that is thrown towards dowel joinery versus all the love and infatuation with domino joinery.  It seems to me they are both loose tenon joinery and the only real difference is the shape of the loose tenon.  So what makes the dowel such a "poor man's" joint and the domino an heirloom quality joint?  If I use dowels with the same approximate surface area as a domino, won't I get the same strength and holding power?  Is there something special about the rectangular shape of the domino versus the round shape of the dowel?

 

Thank you! I love the podcast! 

David

PS: my daughter wants to be a rocket propulsion engineer, so Huy, you rock!  (Guy and Sean are pretty good, too)

 

Sean

1) Hello Master Woodworkers, I appreciate all you do on the podcast and can't wait to listen to the next episode. I am getting ready make a bunch of small to medium size boxes as gifts for family out of walnut and maple. I don't have a spray setup and don't really have time to learn it this year. I am looking for a fast and reliable finish for the boxes, in a matte to semi-gloss. These will be 3x5 on the small side and 8 x 10 on the large. Thanks for all you do, and keep the podcast coming! - John

2) How to understand the grain and what to look for would be a great topic of conversation for the podcast for beginners like myself. Geoff

 

Huy

1) Outside of my shop I would like to build a small shed for storing sheet goods. I live in northern Iowa where it can get pretty cold in the winter. is there any potential problems with storing sheet goods outside covered, dry and then bringing them in prior to using them letting the temperature come up to my shop temperature. Would the low humidity cause any harm to structure of the sheets. Marlan Mincks

2) Great podcast, guys! I appreciate all the advice you give.  I am a fairly new woodworker and I’ve been building some furniture to start to sell.  Nothing massive, trying to stick to smaller pieces because of experience and size of shop. I planned to find people in my area around Nashville TN who appreciate local handmade pieces, but my wife brought the question of what I do if a customer wanted me to ship them the finished product. So my question to you guys is how do I go about figuring that process out? And is it even worth it? I assume I would pass that shipping cost on to the customer. Would be getting into the custom crate building business then too? Thanks for your time! Matthew

October 22, 2020  

Episode 57 - Router Sleds, Air Cleaners, Which Domino, & MUCH More!

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Guy

1) I am looking at getting a Festool domino machine. I was wondering which one you all use the most? They are a lot of money and I want to get both, but only one is in the budget currently. I am currently building a big green egg cart similar to Mark Spagnolo and he used both in his build. I mostly will be building small tables and small cabinets and am thinking of getting the 500 but was wondering what you all think. Thank you. David

2) Hey, Fellas!  I wanted to get your advice on something.  I inherited a Delta DC380 15" planer that has a newer brushless motor on it and straight knives for a cutter head. It's a beast, but it's a big piece of equipment for my shop which is just the size of a one-car-garage.  I'm thinking about selling it and "downgrading" to a DeWalt DW735 with a helical head.  Am I crazy?  What might I end up sacrificing if I go with the DeWalt after working with the Delta for a few years now?  My biggest concerns with keeping the Delta is potential upcoming maintenance (it's an older machine), overall size, and lack of storage in the industrial rolling base. -Joel

 

Sean

1) Hi fellas. You answered my question a while back on dining chair design re: lower stretchers. That was very helpful. Thanks.

I've prototyped a chair (I can email through a picture if that would help), and am now on to batching out the set in white oak. While I was doing the prototype, I pattern routed the back legs and found that I was getting a fair amount of tear out due to grain direction. So, I invested in a compression flush trim bit thinking that this would solve my problems. I'm finding that it isn't the magic solution that I thought it'd be. I'm still facing issues with the bit chewing into grain that would ordinarily be in the wrong direction.

A little background information: I don't have a router table. I'm doing this handheld, taking light passes, and I've got the speed slowed way down on the router. I'm using a 2.25 hp router, which should be able to handle this kind of thing.

Am I missing something? Do I need a router table for this to work? Should I reject technology altogether and live in the forest?

2) I listen to 2 podcasts. Yours is by far the better. Professional and informative while being personable.

I inherited a 12/4 100” x 18” Norwegian pine slab from my 93 year old mentor Bert.  Having been stored under his saw these past 30 years he wanted to see it used.  Grow locally here in SE Minnesota, I estimated it was a sapling in about 1870 making it 2nd growth.

It quickly became apparent neither 40 grit on a 4” hand drum sander nor No. 5 jack plane would work well, so I built an 8 foot x 2-1/2 foot router sled.  Using my Bosch 1617 and a Whiteside 6220 planing bit I eliminated the twist and the bandsaw marks then ROS to 80/150/220, amber shellac and wiping varnish made using Minwax. Final thickness was 3”. You can find pics at @wilsoncellulosics.

While acceptable for a fireplace lintel the resulting quality was good but not furniture grade. Have either you all or your colleagues done slab planing?  I am open to tackling another slab sometime when the opportunity arises. Are third party slab planers worth the considerable cost (meaning furniture-grade results)?  If so recommendations to consider? Bob Peterson

 

Huy

1) Hello gentlemen. This question is for all three of you. I have a 2hp Shop Fox table saw and wanted to add on to it by upgrading the fence and possibly building things into the wings. Have some trouble deciding on what fence when I realized this is a trend for me making these types of improvements everywhere. So.....What are the best third party upgrades you’ve made to tools in your shop (excluding the obvious things like the Super Incra Miter Sled 9000). Maybe a two answer format - best made shop improvement vs. best purchased improvement. What the thing you added that made life so much better. Thank you boys, keep up the great work. Joey - Winter Wolf Woodworking

2) Hi guys, love the podcast! I’ve got a question about a ceiling mounted air filters. I have a small (200ish sqft) shop in the basement. I was looking at something like the RIKON 62-400 since it’s a small area. However if I step up to the 62-100, which is 2.5x the price, I can get carbon filters for it, it’s not an option on the smaller unit. My question is: With my shop being in the house is it worth being able to get carbon filters to help get rid of some of the fumes from finishes, or is the bigger unit just overkill in such a small shop? Im not spraying conversion varnish or anything like that, usually it’s wipe on finish on small boxes and things, if that makes a difference. Also the HVAC is in the corner of the shop, and the basement outside my shop door is a finished living area, which is why I want to put in air filtration. Thanks! Matt

 

WoodWhisperer flattening workbench: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0

October 8, 2020  

Episode 56 - Ripping Narrow Stock, Vacuum Hoses, Standard Board Width, & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreonhttps://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guy

1) I've been woodworking nearly 4 years and do it as a part time business. This year, business has really taken off and I'm getting several large commissions. Because of this, I finally pulled the trigger on a Fuji Q5 Platinum HVLP. I figured if I was gonna spray... go all the way. My question for you gentlemen: I am convinced that Conversion Varnish is a very high quality finish I would like to use; do you all have any that you have used any loved? Any that you hate? Since many are water-based, should I spray shellac first to pop the grain? Thank you! Nathan

2) Hey Guys. Table saw technique question for you: when ripping narrow stock from a wider board do you prefer the narrow rip against the fence (let’s say it’s a 2” rip for discussion purposes) when ripping down a wide board or do you prefer to keep the wide board between the fence and the blade and use a stop block or a thin rip block and constantly move the fence? Assuming the thin rip against the fence is more accurate but are either techniques safer? Ben

 

Sean

1) Hey I love your guys show. You guys are lucky to have Guy on your staff. Every act needs a straight man. He's a good one. LOL so my question is this. In making tabletops is there a standard width of board you prefer. That is, if you have to cut down something wider you typically go for a 8in wide board, 6 in, 12 in. board? - Marlan

2) I’m probably going to get one of the Rigid oscillating belt and spindle sanders that everyone seems to like a lot. But I’ve also had my eye on a 12 inch disc sander. Mainly now I will be using them to sand to lines on curves cut with a bandsaw. Wondering what I would be able to to do in addition to that if I had the disc sander, or whether it’s overkill to have both. Thanks, and don’t let Guy answer my question first :) Just kidding — you’re great, Guy! - Adam

 

Huy

1) Can you share any info or help for vacuum hoses? How many sizes are there? I have 7 different types of shop vacs ( some for the shop, some for job sites and one for water) and it seems like every one has a different size hose. I have reducers and tons of other fittings, but it seems like half the time I am taping them to the tool I am using. Is this a common problem? I also have 2 portable dust Collectors. I thought about painting each size a different color and then just match them up - Tomakazi

2) I picked up a Festool TS55 last fall, and have been slowly getting more familiar with it.  I'm working towards getting an MFT style top for an outfeed table, and came across an older (2013?) video on Guy's YT channel showing a setup using an Incra fence with stops on an MFT outfeed table.  I'm curious if you still use that sort of setup, and if you'd go with the same method for attaching the fence today vs. something like the FenceDogs from BenchDogs.uk or PrecisionDogs.us (not released yet).  Any discussion on using a track saw on an MFT type table for cross cuts, with stops, etc. would be welcome. -Monte

 

September 24, 2020  

Episode 55 - Gloss before Satin?, Trusting Miter Saws, Table Saw Fence Decisions, & MUCH More!

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Guy

1) I've been building small furniture projects (Shaker tables, end tables, walnut table, lounge chairs) in my hobby shop using a skill saw or a hand saw when a bandsaw has been called for. My furniture projects are getting more complicated (a dresser, more lounge chairs) and I'm thinking it is time to get a bandsaw. But which one? I don't see me doing much resawing, although I don't want to completely foreclose that possibility. I've thought about the following options: Jet 14 inch deluxe pro (1.25 hp, $1000), Grizzly GO555LX 14 inch (1 hp, $750), and Rikon table top deluxe 10 inch (0.5 hp, $440). I note that Lowe's also has a Porter Cable 13 inch and a Delta 13 inch, but at their price point I think I'd be better off with the Grizzly. What are your thoughts? Many thanks. ...Tom

2) Hey fellas, big fan of the show. Really enjoy the “specificity” you bring to the craft. Question: you guys talk about not trusting your mitre saws for accurate cross cuts (kapex excluded). So I assume your trusted method is with a table saw. How do you manage getting accurate cuts on large pieces. I know trying to shave a 1/8” off of the end of a 8ft x 6 x 4/4 piece of lumber is not easily done with a mitre jig or a sled on a table saw. How do you get that perfect 90 on something other than a mitre saw on large and long stock? P.S. I don’t trust my mitre saw either. -Zach

 

Sean

1) I really enjoy the podcast and I always learn a lot listening to your show. My question is about finishing. I have been noticing that several woodworkers that I follow apply a glossy clear coat for the first few layers and then they will finish with a semi-gloss clear coat. What is the purpose of starting with a "shinier" coat and then finish with a "less" shiny coat? Thanks in advance...Josh

2) Love the show, I have heard throughout several episodes of each of you stocking up on hundreds of board feet of lumber for potential future projects. Is there a specific dimension, specifically thickness and length that you typically look for? I’m assuming that in order to achieve a specific width, you can always glue boards together, but for posts or say table legs, is this what you do as well? Or for those specific projects do you just custom order a thicker stock in order to get the desired thickness. Hope my question makes any sense, apologize if it is basic. Keep the episodes coming!! Christopher

 

Huy

1) I am a retired rocket scientist who now obsesses over furniture rather than missiles which means I take precision to meaningless extremes.  I am replacing my 1977 Craftsman with a Powermatic 64B bought sight unseen.   I have a Vega 50” fence which I like quite a bit. The Craftsman will be donated to Habitat. Which of the two fences should I send along to Habitat or are they just a horse apiece?

My skill level is intermediate. If at all helpful the items I make are cabinets and tables used either at home or donated for charity auctions. The blade is a WW2, Bench Dog router table for the left wing.

bob

2) if I got one of those EXPENSIVE Forest Woodworker II combination blades (the modified one with a flat bottom cut), would I fall out of love with blade changes? Are they really that much better that I wouldn't feel the need to change that I do now? I much prefer the cuts I'm getting now with the specific grinds compared to combination blades I've used in the past (the better quality "home center"  brands).

Is there a time, even with those expensive combination blades, that you all go back to a specifically rip or crosscut blade?

Thanks for any input!

Peter

September 10, 2020  

Episode 54 - Belt Sanders?,Outfitting A Shop, Storing Lumber In A Shed, & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreonhttps://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

 

Guy

1) I’m writing about a project where we are making a table and using white oak for the first time. While most boards looked great throughout the milling process, we found that a few board exposed a lot of very small short cracks or voids along the “rays”. I’ve seen this a lot working with heart pine which i have epoxied.

How common is this and how do you deal with. Thanks, Mike @ Sibley Manor Woodworks

2) Greetings, love the show. How do each of you feel about hand held belt sanders? (3"X 21" for example). Some fine woodworkers swear by them for projects such as table tops, while others won't even touch them for the hatred of the uneven marks they can leave behind, and relegate them to rough construction only. From my experience I'm in the latter category, although I admit I may not be using the machine properly/correct technique. Are there any special tips or 'insider' knowledge on how to avoid the dips/valleys they leave behind? Or should I go ahead and list my belt sander on Craigslist and be done with it?

MLBETT Wood Works

Sean

1)Hey Guy(s),

Your podcast is great. Thanks for all the help.

I am in the process of building a detached garage. Part of it is going to be a shop area. It’s not going to be a big shop area by any means (15’x25’).  I’m planning on making some cabinets and furniture for our future house (kitchen cabinets, vanities, tables, bar area).  Currently, I borrow other friends and family members equipment when doing project due to my limited space in town.  My question is, what equipment do you recommend for my shop?  I realize you need more information so I’ll explain what I have and a budget. I’m looking to spend around $2000-$2,500.  I don’t have many tools but here is what I have - 10” compound sliding miter saw from Harbor Freight that cuts a little off, cordless drills, circular saw with clamp edge guide, jig saw, and a 1/4” trim router.  These tools got me by for small projects but I think it’s time to upgrade.

 

Thanks for the help!

Casey

2) Hey guys I love the podcast and what you’re doing to help the woodworking community.

About two years ago I finished my walnut dinning room table. It was my first major project in years since my high school shop days. I learned a lot doing it. But as always made mistakes.

I made my table using breadboard ends and I used third coast craftsman’s video as inspiration for the construction of my breadboard ends. After I assembled my table I noticed small gaps between my top and breadboard ends. I was wondering if you could think of any ideas to fix those gaps.  I appreciate the time. Thanks guys. - Trent

 

Huy

1) Hey guys - I am in the process of building a shed (my new workshop). It's going to be 12x16. I will have full 8ft walls and a 7x5 steel rollup door (like the ones you see at storage units) and it will be insulated however most likely not climate controlled 24/7.

My main question is about lumber storage.  since it won't be climate controlled 24/7 should  I be storing lumber in the shop or think about storing it elsewhere. Typically I will only have on hand what I need for the current project or 2. 

Any suggestions on maximizing storage in this small space? John

2) I recently bought some CA glue and activator, as I was reading the label it said that it needed to be kept in a cool place and even suggested storing it in the fridge.  Then I remembered that I heard that PVA glue can go bad if left in a place that is to hot.  Where do you guys store your adhesives? -Rick

August 27, 2020  

Episode 53 - Three-Phase, Kapex Ergonomics, Ash Hard Enough For Workbench?, and MUCH More!

Support us on Patreonhttps://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guy

1) Next question: how much time do you spend working on workflow and process in the shop? I’m a night and weekend woodworker who is taking commission orders now and want to ensure I maximize my time in the shop to be the most effective. What are some tips tricks or source material you might suggest? Maybe Guy can lend an answer to this, as he is working in a full time production shop. Also, just down the road from you Guy, in Noblesville. Thanks in advance! -Thelibertycraftsman

2) Hi Guy, love the podcast. I have a question about the Festool Kapex. I’m about to purchase a new miter saw and am between the Kapex or the Bosch glider. The only concern I have are some of the comments  about the handle shape on the Kapex. Since you use it I’d like your opinion. It is expensive and want to be sure it’s worth it. I would really like a precision miter saw. Thanks you all and love the show. Anthony

 

Sean

1) I have the opportunity to get my hands on some ash trees that will be felled due to the emerald ash borer. I will have these trees slabbed and kiln dried by a local sawmill.

I am fairly new to woodworking and I am primarily a hand tool user.

My question for you guys is what are your thoughts on using ash to build either a Roubo style workbench. Is ash dense/heavy enough to be used as workbench.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Carlos @alberto_woodworks

2) Have you ever heard of anyone hiring someone for a weekend to come to your house and help make adjustments on multiple machines? My tablesaw, bandsaw, jointer and planer all work but could benefit from someone with experience double checking things and making minor adjustments. I  know that every machine has its own quirks so finding someone that knows my exact models would be difficult but I feel as though someone with more experience could make a big impact in a short period of time.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. - Evan

 

Huy

1) Hey guys my name is Anthony S. I am a novice woodworker with a focus on medieval furniture for the house and camp as my wife and I are part of a living history group. We are looking for  our first house. I would like to have one area of the house for a workshop. I use quite a few power tools in my work now and will hope to get a tablesaw and drill press after the house. I know I should be concerned with ventilation and dust collection, which will be determined by where in the house the workshop is, but I am hoping for it to be in the garage. I was wondering what else should we be looking for in a workshop space when house hunting.

2) I have a chance to buy a second hand Felder AF22 dust extractor. It is a 2.2kw 3HP machine but it has a three phase motor in it (I’m in the UK). Putting in three phase power is prohibitively expensive.

Do you have any experience of running a three phase machine with a VFD (preferably an inexpensive Chinese one) and can I use a remote control switch to activate it from my table saw. Many thanks, Mark

 

Information mentioned in the podcast from Huy: Acogedor AC 220V 2.2KW VFD Motor Inverter Speed Controller,Variable Frequency Drive with Wireless Remote Control

 

August 13, 2020  

Episode 52 – Holding Small Parts, Planer Sled Designs,Staining Plywood vs Solid Wood, & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreonhttps://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys

1) I had a question for you about staining frame and panel doors. A few months back I made a few cabinets that I wanted to match reasonably well with existing kitchen cabinets (made from birch). Everything was going well but when I came to staining the wood I ran into issues. I had tested a few stains on a piece of the birch I was using for the face-frames/rails-stiles and found Varithane premium fast dry interior wood stain (color: kona) had a close enough color to the existing cabinets that the difference should't be noticed as the cabinets were going in different rooms. After the wipe on, let sit for a few minutes, and wipe off process I discovered that the panels of the doors were significantly darker than the rails and stiles. I tried a second application of stain to just the frame to try to darken them to even out the coloring but that didn't do much. The wood for the rails and styles was solid birch that I ran through a thickness plainer, assembled, ran through a drum sander, and then sanded with a random orbit sander to 220. The panels were 6mm baltic birch that I sanded with a random orbit sander to 220. I should also mention that I got the wood from a local reputable hardwood dealer, not from a home center. I also used an air compressor to blow of any trapped dust from the doors before staining.

What did I do wrong? I would've been happy if the whole door was either the lighter color, or the darker color, but with the light frame and the dark panel, it just doesn't look right. The only thing that makes sense to me is that the surface structure of the top veneer on the birch plywood was more porous and thus able to absorb more stain. But what do pros do in order to get the same color on solid wood and also veneered wood?

 

Thanks again for the great podcast.

Cheers,

Gavin

2) I’ve been woodworking for about 2 years now and in that time I’ve been primarily using white oak (with occasional use of Ash, Hard Maple & Walnut), but I’m at a loss when it comes to adding finish; I’m simply unsure where to start, so I don’t use any. So could you help me, please? I do understand that after listening to your podcast from the beginning, that this subject is a bit of a mine field and you’ve covered it numerous times for other listeners, but for someone starting out who would like to use low VOC finishes (to protect my asthmatic Wife), what would you recommend starting with, please?

 

Thanks in advance and keep up the great work.

 

Sean

1) I’m building  a planer sled for my Dewalt 735 to do face jointing.  Do I attach the  ‘stop’/‘fence’ part to the leading or trailing edge? I’ve seen it done both ways on YouTube.  What in the world is the correct way? Thanks in advance and I’m a big fan of the podcast and all of your work!

Thanks again, Jason Ruffino SkinnyDogShop

2) Recently built a router table/cabinet because my wife doesn’t know enough about woodworking to stop me from adding to my shop, for now at least.
 
The carcass came together nicely, all 3/4” birch ply with pocket screws (shop furniture so it’s not blasphemy). It was all square and seemed right until the drawers came into play. In total there are 5 drawers - 2 over/under on the bottom left, 1 bigger bottom right, and one on each side of where the router/lift goes. The drawers themselves seem to measure square, unless my public school math is failing me! However some of the drawers seem to be harder to pull in and out. I’m using the full extension drawer slides from Home Depot. Also, when the drawer fronts are attached, they seem to be a little wonky when spaced correctly and some won’t close flush. -Joey

 

Huy

1) Hi woodshop guys. I have a question about case construction. Ive started building my shop with mobile carts, one for my saw/mitre saw/ router etc. I recently started using pocket holes screws since they are bang around shop carts and i wanted to make them as quickly as possible. My question is what is the best construction bottom and top sandwiched between side panels? Or bottom and tops sitting on top of side panels leaving edge exposed. I add a strong back on each case. Ive seen cases made both ways, so I wonder what you guys think. - Bigsquidy

2) Got a question for your awesome podcast: how do you hold small parts when using a plough plane to make the groove for a drawer bottom? Aaron

July 30, 2020  

Episode 51 - Dust Collectors, When To Pull The Trigger, Breaking Bandsaw Blades, & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreonhttps://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

 

Guy

1)When is the right time to pull the trigger?  I'm currently using an old Grizzly 6" jointer that works fine but limits me in terms of both width and length of stock.  What measurements or guidelines do you all use to determine when it's time to upgrade your shop equipment? Joel   

 

2) Right now I've really been trying to take time to learn and be comfortable with the foundational skills; practicing cuts and joinery. Do you have any tips on how to make more accurate angled cuts? For example, I started just making and octagon shaped frame this weekend. Getting all angles and lengths to perfectly match took way too many attempts 🤦‍♂️. Is this something you prefer a miter saw or table saw for? Any tools or accessories you suggest using that can be used to double check your saw blades are at the proper angle? Etc. Right now I have a cheap miter saw and a dewalt jobsite table saw. I know the tools aren't the best, but I'm sure there are some things I could start doing and making into habits to get better as I start into this new hobby!

 

Thanks

Brandon

Sean

1) Hey guys, could you recommend a mobile (2 stage) dust collection system for a hobbyist woodworker? I’m not looking to wall mount as I’m both, in a small space, and not in my “forever” shop. Perhaps DIY (where to start?) or from any brands is suitable. I don’t really know where to begin. Currently run a jobsite table saw, and looking to add a jointer and planer soon. 4” intake is preferred. Thanks! RJ

 

2) Questions for the podcast: is the Festool Domino worth it? Context: building a bar and stools out of 8/4 ash and need something to quickly join the legs of the stools together, as well as the bar and legs. I originally thought dowels or router out for loose mortise and tenon, but time is money, literally, as this is a project for a client. Should I spend the $1000+ for the domino, and save time, which allows me to get other client projects done (could use the domino on some of those projects too) or, save the $1000k, do it with dowels or a router and then spend the $1000+ on a delta tablesaw and a dewalt 735x planer? Planer would need to be on sale for the numbers to line up (bad at math!). I currently have a 1/2 hp craftsman table saw with upgraded fence. Thoughts? Thanks! Love the podcast! Thelibertycraftsman

 

Huy

1)Thanks for the time you invest in the podcast. I have been woodworking a long time but I am still learning. I do not make furniture but I still pick up lots of tips from you three. I am new to the bandsaw. I have a Laguna 14 Twelve. I mainly resaw logs for bowl blanks, since I do a lot of turning. I have been using a Laguna Proforce 3/4" 3 tpi. The blade broke though it is only a couple months old and I have only milled about 3 dozen blanks. What are the causes for such a blade to break? I would appreciate any insight, so as to avoid breaking the new blade. Thanks. -Mark

 

2)The talk about bringing all sorts of lumber into your shop, like from a pile outdoors under a tin cover, has me wondering about contamination. Basically, were talking about a biodegradable material here, which starts growing microbial life on, in, and off it as soon as the tree dies. So is there ever any danger of bringing wood into your storage which infects your entire stock? Relatedly, should we never machine any rotting material because that would make the fungus etc airborne and infect the whole shop? -Warren

July 16, 2020  

Episode 50 - Resaw Advice, Pricing Your Work, Waterfall Miter Reinforcement, & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreonhttps://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

 

Sean

1) What method do you guys use for waterfall joints (besides domino) and are biscuits and glue strong enough? Nick

2) I picked up 4 slabs of white oak that measure about 10 ft by 15” wide and 2 1/4” thick. I set up a router sled leveled everything on saw horses and as it turns out a couple of the slabs have a twist of about an 1”. Or a bow of about an 1” at either end. I wanted to keep the slabs as thick as possible and I don’t think a 1” top would look right.  I ripped one down to about 12” to try to reduce the twist and route off a small amount but it still has a fair amount of twist and would require a lot of material to be removed.

 How would you handle these slabs? Flatten one side with the router sled and leave the bottom slightly out to keep the thickness. Rip them down to smaller widths that I could handle on my 6” jointer, in hopes to keep the thickness at 1.5”. BTW this will be a PITA but could be done with roller stands/roller conveyers. Screw it and  leave the twist/bow smooth out what I can with a power planer and go with it. I don’t have access to a large shop with a belt sander.

Thanks

Jesse

 

Guy

1) Hi guys! Been listening since the beginning and love the show, but I’m still a beginner and recently got a bandsaw (Rikon 10-326, brand new 3/4” Timberwolf resaw blade) which I’m trying to use for resawing. A friend gave me a bunch of purpleheart to resaw for him, and ... it didn’t go well. So my questions:

 

  1. Do you prefer to resaw using a “point fence” or just the bandsaw’s normal fence?  The normal fence gave me an awful lot of drift with the purpleheart.
  2. Is it better to keep the piece you’re resawing off (the piece with the thickness you want)  next to the fence or on the side of the blade without the fence? The former seems preferable for repeatable cuts, but it seems like you quickly lose a reference surface on the third cut?
  3. Is it possible that I had so much trouble because I was resawing a hard wood like purpleheart and dulled my blade really quickly? Or is resawing a lot more fussy than you all make it look on YouTube? :)

 

Thank you, and for what it’s worth, I’ve followed the Snodgrass advice on setting up the guides and I’m pretty sure I got that right. - Adam

2) Guy, as I've improved as a woodworker, I'm getting more requests for building custom furniture, or recreating a design someone has seen online. This means I need to get serious about cost. You guys have discussed cost of various projects in a previous episode, which was helpful, but still vague enough to leave me scratching my head at times. I recognize that you don't want to tell the podcast how much you might make on a project—I get it. So, I'm going to list a project here (not one I'm currently making), hoping to hear you think through materials, time, etc. As a professional, what would you charge for this piece? What should an amateur charge for this piece?:

-  Project: Round breakfast table

-  Wood: solid cherry

-  Size: 42" diameter, 1" thickness

-  Base: something like what Andy Rawls made here, just not as beefy: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bg9tf4_jyRr/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

-  Joinery for the base would utilize the Festool Domino

-  I live in SE Texas, and rough cherry is around $5 bd. Ft.

Josh


Huy

1) Hey guys...I am making a Morris chair out of cherry. Being a novice woodworker, this is my first substantial project. I'm having problems with snipe with my delta 22-555  13" planer. I keep adjusting the infeed and outfeed tables , but still getting the darn snipe. Any suggestions? Also, how much thicker should pieces of wood be, to obtain a desired thickness?

https://woodgears.ca/jointer/planer_snipe.html

 

Also, the arms of the chair are a gentle bent lamination. I built a bending form and 

wondering if you can go through the process, from resawing (what thickness), to assembly, clamping, what glue you use, etc. Final thickness of the arm is inch and an eighth thick.

Keep up the good work.

Dale from Muskego, Wi.

 

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